Courage, intelligence and absolute honesty!
Nineteen eighty-eight was a helluva year. It birthed Jordy Smith and Julian Wilson and, perhaps most importantly since he’s the subject of the video here, that wonderful, flexible, yeasty Hawaiian, Mr Dusty Payne.
Dusty, you’ll remember less for his middling tour career, six seasons best finish 24th, than for his part in Kai Neville’s Lost Atlas (as well as his terrific candour in that film, “(Girls surf) terrible! They think they should just sit on the boat and wait for it to get one foot again so they can go out and do their little tail slides.”) and for going over the falls face first into the Backdoor reef in 2018. He busted his jaw, fractured his skull, was knocked unconscious and spent three waves underwater. Pals pulled up him up by his leash and he was resuscitated on the beach. Good times etc.
In this short, filmed through the northern hemisphere summer, we find Dusty has lost none off his celebrated vigour, sexing wave after wave, drilling hard with circular strokes, and with harmonious and fluid body lingo.