Courage, intelligence and absolute honesty!

Nineteen eighty-eight was a helluva year. It birthed Jordy Smith and Julian Wilson and, perhaps most importantly since he’s the subject of the video here, that wonderful, flexible, yeasty Hawaiian, Mr Dusty Payne. 

Dusty, you’ll remember less for his middling tour career, six seasons best finish 24th, than for his part in Kai Neville’s Lost Atlas (as well as his terrific candour in that film, “(Girls surf) terrible! They think they should just sit on the boat and wait for it to get one foot again so they can go out and do their little tail slides.”) and for going over the falls face first into the Backdoor reef in 2018. He busted his jaw, fractured his skull, was knocked unconscious and spent three waves underwater. Pals pulled up him up by his leash and he was resuscitated on the beach. Good times etc. 

In this short, filmed through the northern hemisphere summer, we find Dusty has lost none off his celebrated vigour, sexing wave after wave, drilling hard with circular strokes, and with harmonious and fluid body lingo.

Essental.

A very good chance to contrast and compare with newly minted, and almost retired, world champ Gabriel Medina.

And, here, a pleasurable three minutes of John John Florence employing the fiery sting of his whip as a goofyfooter.

John John, the almost twenty nine year old from Pipeline, is, prefers to ride with his left foot forward thereby making him a “naturalfooter.”

In this short, the “flip” function on his editor’s software is employed to gift the surf fan a view of John John’s surfing as if he stood with his right foot forward.

A goofyfooter. Or screwfoot. Or “hot switchblade.”

A very good chance to contrast and compare with newly minted, and almost retired, world champ Gabriel Medina.

If you think that John John Florence is perfection as a natural footer, wait ’til you see his transition.

Essential.

If you don't fall asleep there's plenty to look at… 

Who remembers what happened in 2017, apart from the media’s fixation on the ungodly Trump and a royal engagement that would tear hell out of a once-noble family etc?

It was, of course, the last time John John Florence would win a world title, shaking the little pro surfing world down and swimming a river of blood to snatch his second crown at Pipeline.

(He came second to Jeremy Flores at the Pipe Masters, if you’ll recall, enough to secure win.)

This film, Le Vieux Monde Rouge, which translates from French, roughly, to “She squeezed herself around his iron hard-on and rubbed its heady gristle against her stiffening little dingus”, contains never released footage from the European leg of that year’s tour, captured by an EPIC X Monochrome camera, hitting infra-red here and there.

Essential.

How many times have we seen Mason, from Sunset Beach, clinging to his flying trapeze, every fibre of his skin at breaking point?

Mason Ho is an inspiration for his “new, soft, heavy, hot flow.”

How many times have we seen Mason, the thirty two year old from Sunset Beach, clinging to his flying trapeze, every fibre of his skin at breaking point?

And while trying to postpone the inevitable fall, giving an impression of ease and grace?

This is the artist’s compulsion, the obsessive pursuit of the masterpiece.

In this latest episode of Mason’s adventures, this boy-man, who has the soul of a beautiful, imperious and passionate woman, yet locked into the body of a middling male physique, possesses yet another secret wave in Indonesia.

Such great balance and exuberance.

Essential.