French bulldog called Pam Reynolds who is an advice columnist for beachgrit.com
Pam channels "Militant norm" for the first day of school. Crop top by American Apparel. | Photo: Courtney Jaedtke

Ask Pam: “Tell daddy what you need, baby doll!”

Where's Dane? How can I flutter my wings when I ain't got zing? And what if I don't got no dreams?

Pam Reynolds is a four-year-old French bulldog who will hold your gaze so long the dark stain in your armpits will spread. So much charisma! And advice! Never pouty and hungry. Her face is a perfect circle from the nose down and she has the most inviting wiry hair!

YOU WILL SHINE

Dear Pam, 

I’m a 28-year-old girl living in New York. I have great friends, a wonderful boyfriend and a Brooklyn apartment that has featured in “the magazines.” What I don’t have is “fashion sense”. I see your photos on #pamlovesferrariboys and it makes me so jealous. What advice can you give me. 

Penny, NY.

 

GO HARD

Dear Pam, How do I know if I’m following my dream? Because the thing is, I don’t think I have a dream. I’m reasonably happy, so no complaints with life. But that great goal, that five-year-quest? It doesn’t exist. Does it matter? 

Haley, Sydney, Australia. 

 

CASH FOR MONEY

Dear Pam, 

I did some searching and it says your owners are Dane Reynolds and Courtney. Is that Dane the pro surfer? If it is, can you tell him I loved him in the New Zealand section of Dear Suburbia but am wondering what he’s doing now coz I don’t see so much of him…

Graham, Encinitas, CA. 


WHO IS PAM? Pam Reynolds is a four-year-old French bulldog born on a ranch in Oregon, but left at the age of 13 weeks for a more fast paced life in Southern California. She currently resides in Carpinteria where she enjoys modelling, hunting and fashion. Her motto? LIVE FAST DIE YOUNG BULLDOGS DO IT WELL. Send your questions to [email protected] If you want to see Pam answer ‘em live, send an audio file. Get to know Pam on IG @pamlovesferrariboys


Mark Mathews portrait by Richard Freeman
Mark Mathews is the contest director of the Cape Fear Challenge, an invite-only tube riding event that's going to be held tomorrow morning (Australian Eastern Standard Time) at Cape Solander near the southern headland of Botany Bay in Sydney. Mark is also the favourite to win. Want one very good piece of advice for surfing big waves? "When you’re stroking to the surface, use your arms but don’t kick your legs," says Mark. "The big muscles in your legs eat up a ton of oxygen." | Photo: Richard Freeman

Mark Mathews: 10 things you should know about big waves

Cape Fear Challenge contest director Mark Mathews (and event favourite) ain't short of good advice…

Tomorrow morning at seven-thirts (that’s Australian Eastern Standard Time), the Red Bull Cape Fear Challenge is going to run at Cape Solander. You know all about the wave, yeah? That dirty ledge that deposits its payload in front of a limestone cliff right there at the southern headland of Botany Bay, a click or so from Sydney’s international airport.

The contest director and event favourite is Mark Mathews, a big-wave surfer and corporate speaker (Overcome your fear! Let me show you how!) who’s thrown his life at the game of chasing ridiculous waves. Two weeks ago he way he took French photographer Laurent Pujol’s behind-the-surfer technique to another dimension at the Right in WA (see it at stabmag.com or redbull.com/en/surfing).

Who else you going to listen to about how you should behave, react and approach big waves?

1. Big waves equal a lot of moving water

What does that mean to you? Paddle hard and paddle early. Watch guys surf Ours or Shipsterns and you’ll see how early they start to paddle. You might think that they’re going to paddle ‘emselves too far inside. What they’re doing is staying in position as the water rushes out.

2. Beat your wings not your hams

When you’re stroking to the surface, use your arms but don’t kick your legs. The big muscles in your legs eat up a ton of oxygen. You need me to tell you that oxygen is your sweetest friend. Keep a fresh supply.

3. Make a decision and stick to it even if it’s wrong

Second guess and you’ll start punching the panic button way too early. I was at Pipe last year, saw a 10-foot double-up, paddled out, then turned around and got myself into the worst position.

4. Pick your waves

The easiest big waves to surf are ones breaking into channel. As your confidence grows you will move closer to the peak. The only problem ‘bout this is that most people are doing the same thing.

5. If you’re gonna go, go

In a crowded lineup don’t paddle hard and pull back. If the lineup is aggressive and the conditions are good you’ll only have one bite at the cherry. It’s way better to jump off and go over the falls than pull back. Of course, tyre kicking has its advantages (see the next point).

6. Kick tyres

If you’re surfing a reef, crazy-lookin’ things sometimes let you in. Paddle with ‘em slowly and take a look over the ledge. If it gives you an entry point, and sometimes they do, keep paddling. If it doesn’t let it go.

7. Get sandy

Want big, uncrowded waves? Surf a beachbreak. A lot of people are scared of copping waves on the head. Build your confidence by paddling and not going. When was the last time a decent surfer drowned surfing a big beachie?

8. Protect your leash

When you dump your board don’t jerk your leg against your leash as the wave hits. Go with it. Dampen the shock. Ain’t a damn thing worse than being way out the back at Waimea or Sunset without a sled.

9. Paddle as if your life depended on it 

It lets other surfers know that you’re going no matter what.

10. The end section ain’t so bad

You’ve ridden a wave at Chopes or Cloudbreak or wherevs to the end. You flick off, filled with self-congratulations, just in time to see a set approaching. Getting caught inside is our biggest fear and I’m no exception. I was at Teahupoo and this happened and I was… so… scared. But, the thing you have to remember, and that I had to remind myself, is that waves quickly lose their power in shallow water. Dive just under the whitewater and let yourself get washed in.

 


Shane Dorian turn
Consensus is that Shane Dorian is the best big-wave surfer in the world. His smallish game? Still so riven with style! | Photo: Morgan Maassen

ADVICE: SHANE DORIAN ON HOLLYWOOD AND “EVIL BITCHES”

Esquire-style advice list! From best big-wave jockey in world!

When I go drinking I need to have a max drink number in mind. Usually if I go over that number I regret it. This is especially useful when you are single.

Hawaii is where I want my kids to grow up. In Hawaii if you show respect you tend to get it back.

Marriage is THE most important decision you will ever make in your life. Don’t take it lightly. Ninety per cent of your future happiness will depend on who you choose, and 99% of your future misery, so choose wisely. Figure out if she is an evil bitch BEFORE you take the plunge! Hint: you don’t know anyone until you’ve lived with them for three-to-five years and you share expenses.

As far as ageing goes, my outside ain’t that pretty these days so I am working on the inside.

I am glad I am a man, as we are totally exempt from pressure to get plastic surgery “done”.

Hollywood is not for me.

Women? About or from? Oh gosh. I have learned to hold my tongue.

Fear can equal fun if you allow it to.

Eyebrows. I have not learned much about eyebrows, fortunately.

Hair is fleeting. And my wife likes my shaves head, lucky for me.

Friendship is just as important as family to me.

Money is useful but can cause more problems than it solves if you are not careful.

I love fashion on women. Lucky for me, Billabong makes something for all occasions.

I have learned about boats, rent don’t own, no matter how much dough you got.

Fish are tasty. Not as healthy as I thought.

I surf more when I have a great surfboard.

 


Empty Mexican beachbreak
"I was something, I mattered. Summers all mine, tan and toned, a young immortal. I had my crew, we had our spot. Ten bucks in your pocket, a whole day to burn. Surf all morning, lounge and flex for pubescent trim, interlopers beware. Warn 'em away, teach consequences. Slash some tires, smash a window, deliver a beating when numbers were in our favour." | Photo: Morgan Maassen

SURF FICTION (PART THREE): I was something, I mattered

The world belongs to the hard men, not their spoiled children…

The little fucker is fast. Barely around the van, hardly in sight, and I’m blasted off my feet. Face in the dirt, empty lungs, I’m in trouble.

I dated a girl when I was twenty. Sixteen years old, sweetest little cock-tease piece of ass you’ve ever seen. Strutting, perky little tits, ripe young ass a-shimmy. I’d buy her beer and and let her drive me crazy. Prick throbbing, heart racing, the little slut knew what she was doing. Loved every second of it.

Always looking, always talking, always forgetting she was mine. Caught some faggot staring. Waited for him in a parking lot, caught him out alone. Crept up quiet, put a bottle to the back of his skull. Laid him out and beat his teeth in.  Sobbing, begging, shattered mouth on warm asphalt.  Sat astride his chest, swung away until my fists were numb.

Bundled her into the backseat, found an alley. Hemming and hawing, pulse racing.

Wait,wait,wait.

I gave her what she wanted. What they all do. Tears mean nothing, I know what’s mine.

Who’s screaming? Belly on the ground, mouth full of blood. Hand on a rock, try to roll and swing. One foot kicks me limp. Another follows. I’m surrounded and they’re shouting.

“Gun… fucker… kill him.”

Do it.

Set a car on fire once. Pack of niggers’d shown up, beach chairs and towels and smiles all around. Didn’t know what was good for them. Let ’em set up, get nice and comfy. Eating from a cooler, sandwiches and sodas. Ripped a phone book from a nearby booth. Smashed a window, set it alight, flames flickering and catching on sun scorched vinyl. Caustic fumes burning my lungs. Gone before I was noticed.

I was something, I mattered. Summers all mine, tan and toned, a young immortal. I had my crew, we had our spot. Ten bucks in your pocket, a whole day to burn. Surf all morning, lounge and flex for pubescent trim, interlopers beware. Warn ’em away, teach consequences. Slash some tires, smash a window, deliver a beating when numbers were in our favour.

That little blonde cunt spits in my face. Lash out with a foot and buckle her knee.  Send one towards her tits, but it gets caught.

Always knew I was better. World full of weak, tired, scared; nothing to me. Old men with shoulders slumped, marching away to misery. How am I here?

I matter, I’ll finish this. Shotgun’s within reach, I stretch and grasp. Dreadlocks beats me to it. Rich boy fuck all thinks he’s in charge.

Set a car on fire once. Pack of niggers’d shown up, beach chairs and towels and smiles all around. Didn’t know what was good for them. Let ’em set up, get nice and comfy. Eating from a cooler, sandwiches and sodas. Seagulls flocking near, hoping for scraps, prepared to pilfer. Ripped a phone book from a nearby booth, yellow pages full of worthless strangers. Smashed a window, set it alight, flames flickering and catching on sun scorched vinyl. Caustic fumes burning my lungs. Gone before I was noticed.

Scramble to my knees, lunge for the barrel. Little bitch is shocked, squawks, recoils. Gun hits the dirt and it’s anyone’s game. I’m not beaten yet. I’m no broken man. Years are strength, decades pent up, choked with a rage that won’t boil over.  A world that’s filled me with poison, I want to open wide and retch it in their faces.  Show them this is mine. Everything I have, I fucking earned it. The world belongs to the hard men, not their spoiled children.

I lost my way.  Tried to buy in, fit in, make do. Had a little wife, built a little life. Spent my years screaming through the bars, caged by a system built to coddle.  Squandered every lesson I’d learned, bent over smiling for sissies in suits, chasing a dangled dream that never existed. No more, not now.

Fingers brush the barrel and I’m blindsided. A heel stomps my hand, something’s broken. Another kick to the ribs and my breath’s coming in barbs. A hand tangles in my hair and wrenches my head back, my twisted claw scrabbling useless at their wrist.

Blondie’s got my gun now, stock cocked over her shoulder, swinging for the fences. Just do it.  End it. What’s the point? Everything I had, was, would be, is gone. Finish the fucking job.

Dreadlocks plucks it from her hands mid swing, turns and flings it into the night.

“C’mon, he’s done, let’s go.”

Coward.

I’ll kill them. I’ll smash their faces in, gouge their fucking eyes out. Cut and cut and cut until screams shatter their throats. I try to stand, my feet push dirt.

They leave their campsite behind, fire burning to embers as their wheels kick up dust that coats my swollen tongue and busted lips. I spit it out red and struggle onto my back. Their taillights disappear over a rise. Finally alone.

What have I done to deserve this?


SECOND GUESSING THE ASP

The Tahiti contest? Yeah, rad! But, listen, three things ain't quite right…

Teahupo’o gave me an attack of dizziness. Heading into the final days of the waiting period I thought Kieren Perrow was boned. He’d passed off too many good days early on, only to have conditions shut him down time and again. Bad move, leaving it until the last two days, hoping for an epic swell. Except not.

Unfortunately, not all the decisions were good ones. Since I enjoy second guessing ZoSea/ASP policy as much as the next man, here’s a list of stuff I still want to bitch about.

The commercials: It’s time for ZoSea to hire some new ad sales dorks. Watching the same few commercials play on repeat over the course of an entire contest is obnoxious as hell. It also does a good job demonstrating how little commercial interest there is in the sport.

On the bright side, whichever company was advertising their girls line did a good job of moving a half step away from the sexism rampant in the industry.  There were four waves ridden, compared to only two ass shots over the course of the ad. I’ll chalk that up as a step towards egalitarianism.

The commentators: I don’t know what’s going on here. Strider, Pottz, Williams and Occy do a pretty good job with the color, but Blakey, Turpel and the other guy seem like they’ve never taken a public speaking course in their lives. Real sports announcers draw from a wealth of knowledge to generate conversations during slow moments. Using inane banter to fill dead air is agonising. Spend your ample time between events filling manila folders with salient facts, pull them out during lulls.  Talk about local culture, sponsor changes, equipment choices, the evolution of progression at the relevant spot, anything. Just don’t spend hours repeating that JJ surfs barrels good because he grew up at Pipe. We know that.

And, for Christ’s sake, please discuss scores. It’s hard to make an argument that results are legitimate when they’re handed down by anonymous dudes based on secret reasoning and never questioned by the guys in the booth. Can you imagine a football game where the refs are all watching from off stage and the commentators aren’t allowed to talk about bad calls? Of course not, that’d be retarded.

The scoring: Starting a heat between the two best barrel riders on Earth by giving one of them a 10? Who’s dumb-ass idea was that? Rather than seeing them trade off and battle for the win we instead got to witness JJ struggle to dig himself out of a hole. Giving a 10 means that it’s impossible for someone to get a better wave in the heat, how the fuck can that be an option ten seconds in? Moves like this, combined with the head judge nonsense, reek of collusion. However, I will admit that I enjoy screaming obscenities at a computer screen, so if that’s what you were going for, well, bravo!