It ain't a fanciful notion. But what board?
Just recently, I started to plan my Hawaiian quiver. You gotta take boards for Pipe, Sunset, Haleiwa, big Lanis, Jockos, maybe the Bay if there’s a modicum of bravado in that heart of yours.
And then reality hit. What do I ride normally? Dirty little five-eights, a five-ten if it’s six foot. Anything over eight foot and I’m either not interested or I’m searching for a refracted hunk of swell half the size and mowing down the flank of some headland.
So why take a five-board quiver with the required six-twos, seven-os, and eight-footers? Why not take my regular short board and just… go.
Back in the eighties, Cheyne Horan rode 15-foot Waimea on a five-seven. It wasn’t the prettiest thing on earth but he showed what was possible. A decade later, Tom Curren re-awakened the short-board-in-giant-waves concept when he rode his Tom Peterson-shaped Fireball Fish in remote 12-foot reef waves in Indonesia.
And Craig Anderson, whose surfing isn’t hampered by size or volume, rides his little 5’4″ Hayden Cox-shaped Hypto-Krypto in everything from one-foot beachbreak mush to eight-foot top-to-bottom barrels in Namibia to maxi-sized Kanduis in Indonesia.
“There’s no other board I’d have under my feet. Those boards make serious drops if you commit to them,” says Craig.
The Australian shaper Hayden Cox says the HK’s work in all conditions because of the pulled-in tail (hold!) and wide forward point (speed!). For the average guy, a little under six feet and maybe 75 kilos, a five-eight’ll take you through a Hawaiian season, as long as you surf the Rocky Point down to Log Cabins stretch and take off to Honolulu for shopping when it’s a Sunset-only day. (Even the greatest shaper in the world can’t make a weeny board work in the world’s thickest, but mostly fat, wave.)
“The tail as always the dirty little secret,” says Biolos. “It’s the same width as a normal high-performance board was at the time. And it was this lack of a big, wide tail that allowed the boys to surf them in such radical waves.”
The Lost shaper Matt “Mayhem” Biolos proved the worth of his round nose fish concept in the Hawaiian winter of 1997 when Cory Lopez and Chris Ward rode their 5’5″s… everywhere. The movie made from those sessions, 5’5″ x 19 1/4″ (1998), has remained such a classic surfers like Mason Ho still keep the little fishes in their quivers.
“The tail as always the dirty little secret,” says Biolos. “It’s the same width as a normal high-performance board was at the time. And it was this lack of a big, wide tail that allowed the boys to surf them in such radical waves.”
A one-board Hawaiian quiver? Possible? Of course!
Will it cramp your style just a little? Only a little.
Tip: if Sunset gets big, crawl under a house and grab an eight-o. The Volcom house has a ton.