North County surf spot wakes to an unpleasant
surprise.
A surfer’s body was found next to a broken
surfboard this early morning at North County San Diego’s
Swamis. Nothing much is known yet. Police responded to a 911 call
that said a man was laying, in wetsuit, face down next to his
broken board. When paramedics arrived he was pronounced dead at the
scene and not taken to the hospital.
We have been having a run of very fun surf and it has been a
touch bigger than normal but not, like, crazy big. Odd to think,
for some reason, that surfing can lead to death. Of course there
are sharks and those who conquer massive waves have a different set
of dangers but for the every day man, or at least to me, it feels
odd. One minute motoring down the line, the next getting smashed
and drowning.
The news report is here…
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Rad: Best-selling surfboard in
America!
By Chas Smith
Biolos? Merrick? Mr. Hayden Shape? Pyzel? Maurice
Cole?
America is in a surf renaissance for certain.
Minus a viable star on the World Championship Tour and Quiksilver
going bankrupt/moving to France and sharks waiting to
eat/eating lots of people in Hawaii, California, Florida and
nuclear waste being stored, indefinitely, right next to Lowers
things are looking bright!
And, today, it has been revealed that the best-selling surfboard
in the United States comes from none other than the esteemed shaper
AGIT Global, manufacturer of your very favor Wavestorm! The
ubiquitous blue and white 8-foot foamie can be seen ripping at most
beaches and can be purchased at core retailer Costco.
Fortune reports that 500,000 have been sold so far with another
100,000 set to sell this year at between $100 and $180 a pop. Like
most shapers, AGIT Global admits that profit is slim. Like Matt
Biolos, it appears to be more about love than money. (READ HERE!)
Yes, a surf and skate renaissance too. Costco + surf and Tony
Hawk’s new shop sponsor Walmart. Rad!
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Culture: Surf Art History!
By Mariano Landa
A high-culture romp through nineteenth-and
twentieth-century art history… for surfers.
As realists and romantics appreciative of
aesthetics, no surf media audience is as astute and
learned as that which congregates here at BeachGrit. Case
in point? Mariano Landa’s transatlantic high-culture romp through
nineteenth-and twentieth-century art history… for surfers.
5. Josep de Togores (Cataluña), Couple on the Beach
(1922)
Every surfer who’s filled a passport or two knows that only one
surf trip happening is as memorable as scoring bombing waves
halfway across the world: that raunchy tryst with a total stranger
after the swell dies down. Son of the President of the Barcelona
Association of Football Clubs (later FC Barcelona), Togores uses a
neutral palette to capture the essence of such an encounter,
embodied by our lady — is she a French ripper? — whose round curves
complement the bronzed brawn of her surfed-out lover. The flatness
of the waves reminds the viewer, “Everything has a time and a
place. Don’t be that guy who misses the swell trying to find a
fuck.”
4. Joaquín Sorolla i Bastida (Valencia), The Arrival of
the Catch (1889)
Orphaned at two years old, the post-impressionist Spaniard
Sorolla knew a rippable little left when he saw one. The stiff
sails in the background indicate that there’s a nice little
side-onshore air wind running, the fishermen’s bare feet tell us
that the water’s trunkable, and the left off the banks looks apt
for two pumps and a jump. The young girl’s dismissal of the surf,
perhaps turned off by the breeze, causes her father to comment,
“Honey, it’s better than it looks out the back. Be glad you don’t
live in Florida.”
3. Darío de Regoyos (Spain)– The Basque Coast, Morning
(1895)
A century before the WSL even thought of a European leg for the
tour, Regoyos was dropping clues as to the temperamental nature of
the waves in the Bay of Biscay. The heaving shorebreak barrel is
deceiving. As the headland provides scale, it’s bigger than it
looks, and the left seems the natural option: it’s overhead for
sure. But seeing the left clamp as it runs into the corner, the
viewer thinks, “If only there was more west in the swell, the point
might be firing!”
2. Daniel Vázquez Díaz (Spain) – The Sea
(1908-1914)
Vázquez reminds us that everything is derivative. Acclaimed as a
rip-off of his Golden Age predecessor Zurburán, DVD was more Kai
Otton than Kelly Slater. But he brings us into the fore of our
present debates of surf and sex. What you don’t see is that the two
naked dudes — literally riding bareback — have stashed their fresh
28L Sharp Eye’s in the bushes before crossing the rivermouth for a
surf check. As the seated figure leans back to get a better angle
on the swell filling into the right, his rippled back reminds us
that he’s not posing for you or for me, he’s posing for himself.
“We’re out there,” cries his companion.
“More horses,” cries a Roxy ad exec.
1. Ignacio Merino (Peru/France): Pizarro Taking
Possession of the Pacific in the Name of the Spanish Monarchs
(1850)
Merino was a true G. Born to parents so wealthy that they make
Dane’s contract look like pocket change, he grew up within a
stone’s throw of those famous Peruvian pointbreaks between Piura
and Trujillo before being educated in France, rubbing elbows with
big guns like Franky Goya, Eugéne Delacroix, and Paul Delaroche.
After a back-and-forth between Lima and Paris, he pumped out this
image of a disputed conquistador— Pizarro or Balboa —who throws a
claim worthy of imitation by any competitive surfer or layman
barrel-dodger. Chucking caution to the wind in a shorebreak that
looks worthy of a WSL contest, his costumage reminds us just how
far back retro-revivals can still go.
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Just in: Surf season is here on the North
Shore!
By Chas Smith
Hawaii has some of the best local news ever. Come
feast!
“Surf season is here and the North Shore is up
to the challenge. Way up!” And thus Hawaii’s KITV 4 tackles, in
amazingly nonsensical fashion another winter on the North Shore!
This one is going to be the best ever, maybe. “It’s considered the
most wonderful time of the year…” reporter Brenton Awa tells the
viewer. And if you don’t live in Hawaii you should find some way to
watch their local news. It is always a joy. Like, some of the best
television going anywhere outside HBO. In this episode we have
guest appearances by Danny Fuller and Susan + Bob Friend.
“Business is gonna get mo betta!” Awa tells the viewer as high
surf starts cruising in and, yes it will. If you live in Hawaii
which is your favorite local newscast besides all of them? Rory
Parker, which one is yours?
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Bummer: Big-Wave Legend Goes Missing!
By Rory Parker
Alec Cooke aka the larger-than-life Ace Cool
disappears while surfing Waimea Bay…
Ace Cool, aka Alec Cooke, big-wave legend,
North Shore character, one of the few humans to have surfed Kaena
Point, went missing Wednesday off Waimea Bay.