The big-wave icon and Hollywood stuntman, dead at 48…
A short time ago, the big-wave icon and Hollywood stuntman, Hawaiian Brock Little, died, among family, among friends.
The coolest of motherfuckers? Yeah, he was.
Brock, a big-wave surfer who was held in awe by Kelly Slater and co, announced his cancer via Instagram. “I have cancer. It sucks, but I’m taking chemo. You do what you can. Can’t believe the person in that picture is me. I look in the mirror and I feel like it’s not me.”
When we spoke three weeks ago, he said, “I’m so stoked. I’ve had a great life and what I’ve lived through and what I’ve done in my life, crazy good times.”
When we said goodbye, he thanked me for my interest in his condition.
A few minutes ago, Kelly wrote:
[email protected]…larger than life to me. The world I know will never be the same. I love you, man. Thank you.
And, listen to my phone call interview with Brock three weeks ago, below.
LEGACY! Thanks for sharing this convo – amazing.
Mahalo Brock
I said if before he died but wanted to say it again.
Dell, did you figure out what it was that shook you up so much about Brock?
There does seem to be a knife-blow delivered to the soul that speaks to common mortality, delivered with the cold and unfeeling hand of the professional assassin. Life’s a bitch, then you die.
Brock did seem to transcend surf stardom, not by ascending above it but by always seeming to be just below it, with the common man. You couldn’t imagine Julian Wilson pounding nails but Brock always seemed like he just walked off the job site, cracking a last joke on the way out before ditching the tool bag and getting down to business, which in this case was riding the biggest waves in the world.
To paraphrase Gay Talese from his profile on Frank Sinatra: Brock makes them think that if Brock can do it, it can be done; not that they could do it, but it is still nice for other men to know that it can be done.
You could tell and it is nice to know from Warshaw that the impression is backed up by the reality that he was taking the piss out of Professional surfing; and that is a sign of a very fine intelligence because it is something laughable, risible even; that young men (mostly men) can be paid large sums for nothing more than riding waves. Perhaps most risible is that those same young men (and some women) exist at the indulgence, on the spare change of the common man, the nail pounding guy, the nurse, the schoolteacher, the businessman, butcher, baker, candlestickmaker they paddled up the inside of and dropped in. Like all parasites they can be scornful of their hosts.
Brock seems to have understood this.
The other thing: in the photo he’s flexing. Laughing slyly again at the disease robbing him of everything, youth, muscle, bone, life. Sticking his middle finger up at it, the fight against Cancer, spinning underneath it and going. It’s both the saddest and most heroic image in surfing.
RIP Brock Little. You left a great template: life well lived, well loved man.
Thursday swell looks big and clean. I’m coining it “The Brock Swell” and hope the Eddie runs! Aloha e Brock 🙂
Rest In Paradise Brock you are a Legend. Condolences to the family and friends.
Any idea why my comment went to “Pending?”
I dont know! 4 comments in the “pending” box this morn. None had downvotes, spam, dodgy links or questionable content. Sometimes it happens for no reason… A glitch in the Diqus system at a guess.
Got it. I think that it just cleared and was posted again so no worries. This was the first time that happened to me here and, like you said, there wasn’t anything sketchy in the post.
Very sad. Another Lost Hero… Lost Legend, but always remembered.
Even the Ocean seems sad and angry at the news… Massive back to back swells hitting Hawaii next week. Brock would go.
Inherit the waves Brock rip pal
Brock was a “charger” in big waves. Well respected. God bless, condolences and prayers to the Little ohana.
absolute legend rest in peace
Not just a “legend”, but an awesome guy. I only met him once many years ago. He was friends of my roommate, came over and talked story. It was right after that barrel at the Eddie. So humble, and he was one of the few big wave surfers that did it 150% for the experience. Surfing has lost a true giant. RIP Brock
Very sad. Going to stop by Clark’s gallery tonight (if it’s open) in hopes that they have something to pay my respects. He was one of the guys I looked up to when I got interested in surfing so it’s always tough to see someone you admire get sick and pass.
Just stopped in and t was business as usual but I said a little prayer for him. Aloha.
R.I.P. #legend
i have been wondering for a long time. where’s brock? i’m really in shock. so very sorry.
Legend.
Condolences to his family and friends. Guy always seemed like an absolute legend.
That’s a guy the surfing world should remember fondly. A nice guy in a world of North Shore thugs – he let his surfing do his talking.
Heavy – REST IN POWER