The original mad huey, Taj Burrow, wins
back-to-back WQS events at Keramas, Bali.
We’ll never forget Taj Burrow, even though
retirement, now, is official and only six or so weeks away.
Just two hours ago, the thirty-seven-year-old won the Kommune
Pro (presented by the Mad Hueys, naturally) for the second time in
two years.
The waves were four-to-six feet in the final and for most of it,
it did appear that Shane Holmes, a concrete worker from Australia’s
Central Coast, and whom Taj had never heard (nor I for that
matter), would win.
But, as the press release document explains:
“Burrow waited patiently in the final until he found himself
in a combination situation (needing two single wave scores) and
found a long hollow wave with some smooth finishing turn sections.
He was then left needing an 8.70 (out of a possible 10) Burrow
found one of the bigger waves of the heat and stalled for what
seemed like and eternity in one of the best barrels of the event
before coming out and smashing two big turns to score the a 9.67
for a heat total of 18.74 (out of a possible 20), the highest two
wave total of the event to take the win.”
Taj’s surfing, as you’ll agree, has an undefinable quality that
bursts into glory when he opens those shoulders.
A smoking little pocket ride at Kelly Slater's
Fresno tank!
Mr Slater just dropped a new clip of Stephanie
Gilmore scoring at smoking little pocket ride on his wave
machine. It’s really getting hard to write this thing off. Looks
so damn fun.
I would love to see some lesser-skilled surfers ride the
thing.
Mainly because I’m sure it’s more difficult than they make it
look and some wavepool wipeout carnage would be entertaining.
In other news, I’m still waiting for my invite. Wonder why it
hasn’t arrived yet? Probably due to, you know, politics and stuff.
I keep it too real.
Give the video a watch, you can only see it on
BeachGrit!
And also on, literally, every surfing website that exists.
I saw professional surfer Alex Gray in the
departure lounge of Emirates flight EK 215 in Dubai. He was coming
from South Africa, I believe. I had already been three days in
transit. He had been flying for eight hours at least. The non-stop
flight we were both looking down the barrel of was sixteen
hours.
And the glamour of an international life rots very quickly at
30,000 feet. I used to love travel more than most
anything. At nineteen I went to Egypt for a six month
study abroad program and had a thirty hour layover in New
York City for some reason even though I was flying from LAX to JFK
then JFK to CAI. My travel agent offered to rebook the ticket,
giving me a normal layover. I told her no and not because I wanted
to catch a cab into the city and dance the night away. I stayed at
the airport for those thirty hours, soaking up the joys of travel.
The highs and lows, the possibilities the promise, the dream of a
jet set existence. I thought, as I moved from hard bench to hard
bench to generic kiosk to hard bench, that someday I wanted to look
the like the elite airline status businessmen utterly annoyed at
everything and everyone. I wanted to have traveled so much that I
too hated all associated with it.
And I have arrived. The thought of getting on a plane, right
now, turns my stomach. Of taking my computer out of my carry on bag
and placing it in the plastic tray and placing my shoes in another
plastic tray with my phone. Of having the security mister tell me
that I need to put my watch in the plastic tray too even though my
watch has never set off a metal detector. Of waiting for my section
to be called. Of wedging into a rough fabric seat. Of 2 Broke Girls
or The Big Bang Theory.
I don’t frankly know how the pros do it. A good half of their
lives are spent in the air if they are lucky. Two-thirds if they
are luckier. How does a depressed pall not cover everything they
gaze upon? Alex and I had a nice chat about what I was doing and
where he surfed before heading to our respective cocoons. He may
well be on another plane right now, heading for surf somewhere. I
am getting on another one in two days heading for the grave.
Use Yakuza money, devil imagery, sado-masochism and
a little nudity…
There are four pleasures in life impossible to
better: sleep, television, casual sex and new tail
pads.
Therefore I was pleased beyond measure when, on an unseasonaly
warm Thursday afternoon last week, the brooding film director Luke
Farquhar arrived at BeachGrit’s Bondi bureau with six
tail-pads, a bottle of saki and two thousand dollars in cash.
He wanted, in obvious order, to get drunk, bribe one of the
three gatekeepers to the site to run a story on his and pal Reiss
Laurenson’s tail-pad and wax brand Necro, and
buy two vertical banners for a period of ten days.
I protested that that he’d already given the story to another
website (which you can read here) but money
doesn’t talk so much as it shouts.
I also asked where he got this kind of money because directing
doesn’t pay real good anymore, even though he’s relocating to Los
Angeles very soon. Luke said a Japanese man whom he met in a Tokyo
nightclub is funding the company. Luke and Reiss design the pads
and nail the creative (Reiss is good on the keys, as well as in the
air) while the Japanese man cuts the cheques or, in this case,
provides the cash.
I needed the money and said, why don’t you explain the mechanics
behind starting a tail-pad company?
Luke said, “It looks pretty simple, but really
isn’t. These red fuckers are a custom five-piece, single
square routed surface. There’s this… perfect… hardness in
the kicker with soft pillow-like squares across the deck.
This gives you more ease with foot movement when you need it.”
Isn’t grip…grip?
“I’ve noticed a trend in deck grips to use a corduroy
design,” says Luke, “and for me I need to really
feel something under my foot or I’m constantly
readjusting before I go into speed-ball mode which can
be frustrating when you’re getting ready t0 launch.”
Necro also makes these little skull-shaped, Alexander
McQueen-esque blocks of wax. Luke describes those, and the grip, as
like a “shampoo-conditioner combo.”
Coming soon, he says, is a two-piece grip, and a five-piece in
black. The wax is sold out but you can buy stickers of a man in a
devil costume spanking a naked woman.
Luke adds, “We sent Noa Deane some grips. He didn’t
use them so…um… Noa, can you send ’em back? Cheers cunny.
Also, we are 100 per cent all about the
product. Feedback welcome, even if you just wanna call us
cunts in the comments. We would love that. Maybe we can send you
a grip for doing so? You’ll have to come out from your
on-line name though, ya pussy!”
Last June, the vaguely cosmic surfer Cyrus
Sutton threw his iconic surf van (195,000 well-travelled miles) for
sale on eBay, eventually selling it for $10,100.
It was the same E-series Ford van that had delivered Cyrus
to waves as far north as Washington and to Mexico in the opposite
direction.
“It was my first home,” says Cyrus who describes himself thus,
“I have a pretty dark European’s
complexion. Brown hair, brown eyes and I tan easily.”
Just recently, Cyrus, who is thirty-four years old but could
easily pass for twenty nine, launched his new surf van. It’s a
magnificent vehicle that deserves close study and maybe
imitation.
Study the new van here and, below, Cyrus presents an overly
long, but nevertheless very helpful, step-by-step how-to on how to
turn your van into something that will take you into the sunset,
maybe forever.
Cyrus writes:
My Sprinter was a dream to drive but the living quarters were a
problem. Things were always sliding around and it was hard to keep
anything organized. I started building a list of features I wanted
to put into my van. As the list grew I realized that I needed to
remove everything and start from scratch. I knew coming up with
good design was key. I needed a well thought out space that served
multiple functions and had built-in incentives for keeping my stuff
orderly. I spent a lot of time prioritizing my needs and thinking
about how to most simply address those needs.
Here’s my wish list of features (in no particular order)
1. Install a wood stove- you can’t beat the dry heat and
pleasing aroma of a wood stove. Propane stoves are always a
nightmare in my experience with fumes and wet heat that sinks to
the ground. I bought a house with some land in Washington state
earlier this year so I knew heating would become a concern, even in
the deserts of Southern California this past winter the
20-something degree Fahrenheit nights became unbearable at times, a
result of poor insulation and no heat source.
2. Insulate with eps foam and wood- eps insulation doesn’t
breakdown with road vibrations and wood walls make it easy to
accessories the walls with shelves and hooks to get stuff off the
ground.
3. Make a functional kitchen- I never had a kitchen in my
van and I really wanted to have a nice space I could store, clean,
prep and cook food. Over the years I’d grown to cooking a lot as a
way to save money, eat fresher and save my consumption of packaging
waste.
4. Install a solar system- although the solar system I had
in my Ford was nice for my electronics when the weather was fair, I
wanted more power. As part of my kitchen I wanted a refrigerator to
store perishables and not have to deal with always getting ice and
emptying a smelly warm cooler after it all melted. I also wanted to
connect the 12V fan and vent that came with the van.
5. Make a space I could walk through the whole way- it
seemed like a shame that I couldn’t take advantage of all the
height and floor space of my new van in the current design which
had a huge and heavy wood rack separating the back from the main
compartment.
6. Make an organized, easy to access place for my short
surfboards and long board
7. Make a work desk so I can have a clean space to work on
my projects
The first step was hiring an electrician to help me install my
solar system. It is…
12 Renology 100w 12v solar panels with voltage regulator
($330)
2 100ah AGM marine batteries ($240)
Krieger 1500 watt inverter ($140)
8 outlet energy saving power strip ($35)
LED christmas and white copper wire fairy lights ($40 for
both)
6. A Whynter 45 quart electric top loading compressor
fridge ($445)
The electrician and I measured and drilled the holes for the
solar panels on my roof. We used self-tapping screws and lots white
caulk seal the screws to prevent rust and roof leakage. The screws
fit into the mounting brackets on the underside of the panels and
held them securely in place. He ran the cable down into the inside
of the van from a hole he drilled and carefully sealed from the
roof. The batteries were wired in parallel, meaning positive to
positive and negative to negative which basically made them into
one 200ah battery unit. He ran the leads from the panels through
the voltage regulator and then into the batteries. The voltage
regulator protects the batteries from over charging. We then
connected the inventor which converts the direct 12v current from
the batteries into AC watts. I connected the inverter to the
positive and negative leads of one battery and mounted both the
charge regulator and the inverter. Finally, I plugged the power
strip into the inverter. The red and green light indicated my
system was now charging and ready for use. With the solar system
installed, I edited my film Island Earth for a couple weeks and
coordinated a good time to come down to San Diego and meet Glen to
build out the inside.
I met Glen at his place in San Diego at 7am just like I’d like
we’d done three years before. I sketched out what I’d been thinking
and showed it to Glen. We drove to the lumber yard for the first of
many trips. I wanted an interior that smelled and looked great so
we chose a mix of cedar and redwood tongue and groove to line the
walls with. For insulation we chose 1 inch R-Tech brand EPS foam
with a single sided reflective barrier. We also bought two large
sheets of birch ply for the cabinets, two pieces of cheap composite
plywood for the subfloor and an inch-thick piece of ply wood for
the bed support. We also bought a bunch of 1 1/4 inch self tapping
metal screws, two piano hinges, 6 door hinges, and a few 1”by 2”
and 1” by 1” wood strips for supports. For the floor I bought solid
bamboo wood flooring commonly used in homes.
We started by ripping out the existing interior. It must have
been built with scraps from a large industrial building project.
The pieces of wood they used were heavy and huge. They used 3
screws where they could have used one and it took us most of the
first day to remove it all.. It was a good bet that when we
finished our build out it would be many hundreds of pounds lighter.
The last step was to rip out the imitation wood floor which covered
a cesspool of mold. Apparently it experienced a massive flood
(probably during it’s former days as pet grooming mobile in
Portland). Instead of cleaning it up the builders simply laid new
flooring over the top of the wet ground. The amount of mold I’d
must have inhaled unknowingly over the past year made my skin
crawl.
After cleaning out the mess we cut out the composite plywood to
match the floor space. We then drilled it down with self tapping
screws, Glen took out his table saw and began to masterfully cut
the interlocking bamboo floor panels to fit the floor.
Here’s a list of tools used to build out my van. I’ll spare you
a detailed materials list because every build is different and
listing the lumber and hardware we bought without a complete set of
blueprints would do more harm than good. Just use common sense,
make a plan and calculate what you need.
1. Circular saw- for cutting clean, straight and long
cuts
2. Jig saw- for cutting rounded edges
3. Table/angle saw- for making short, precise cuts that
need to be a specific angle (often used to make cuts that will be
joined together)
4. Cordless drill- for drilling and screwing
5. Drill bit and screw bit set
6. Tape Measure and chalk line for marking cuts
7. Angle measure- to check angles and mark for cutting
8. Clamps for holding wood together for drilling
9. Vise grips
10. Pencils
11. Ear and eye protection
12. Right angle
13. Hammer
After finishing the floor we lined the walls with insulation as
well as cedar and redwood tongue and groove. This was challenging
and definitely a two person job because many of the pieces of wood
were not completely straight. Glen created various wedges to keep
each section in place while I pushed with all my strength prior to
locking their grooves in with screws.
With the floor and walls skinned we broke out the tape measure
and had an in depth conversation about the features I wanted and
exactly how they would best fit together. Glen’s experience and
spacial awareness no doubt saved the project from multiple mishaps
at this stage. He quickly and skillfully assembled the wood cases
outside of the van and placed them inside multiple times to check
their fit. His construction was light weight and strong. It
centered around the framing up everything with 1 by 1 inch and 1 by
2 inch strips which he used to drill the plywood into to form right
angles. And the strength and structure of the 1 by 2’s allowed him
to use thinner 3/8” inch thick pieces of plywood for the
cabinets.
The bed used a 7 foot long piano hinge and caught a sturdy and
solidly supported 2” by 2” piece of redwood on the opposite side of
the kitchen cabinet. The main storage compartment along the wall
under the bed also used a 7 foot piano hinge. All of the hinges for
the cabinet doors were small door hinges. Glen had a trick of
drilling the hinges in before he cut out the doors. He then removed
the hinges and cut the doors with a jig so the doors and hinges fit
perfectly.
Here’s a few other things I noticed that Glen does all the time
and makes his work so clean..
1. He always measures twice or three times before making a
cut.
2. He creates templates out of cheap and found materials
like cardboard or thin/cheap wood to test and refine his
measurements
3. He always pre drills holes with bits slightly smaller
than the screw size before screwing
4. He often counter sinks this holes as well to sink the
screw heads and avoid splitting the wood
5. Whenever he’s making an important cut with his circular
saw, jig saw or table saw he’ll often cut the wood upside down to
avoid frayed edges caused by the saw blade.
My idea for the inside was to make the space was as open and
simple as possible while still being able to store all of my stuff.
All of the supports were hollow and served as storage compartments.
Top loading compartments were implemented wherever possible. I
wanted to be able to transform the space from a bedroom to a living
room/kitchen with the dropping of a bed that could easily latch to
the wall when needed.
To finish the wood I wanted to avoid harsh chemicals so I didn’t
have to breathe in their VOC’s for weeks or months. I also didn’t
want to mask the smell of the raw wood so I looked up natural wood
sealing options and found a recipe that used 2 parts olive oil, 1
part lemon juice and a few drops of essential oils. I mixed them
all before applying and the results were awesome. The only place I
used conventional spar varnish was for my counter top where I
needed extra protection from wear.
To top off the basic design, I ordered a bunch of small things
on Amazon. Here’s my shopping cart:
Compact teak nautical shelves ($150)
Fruit basket ($23)
Fold down teak wall seat ($120)
Linen hanging clothing and shoe organizer ($19)
Stainless steel cocktail sink basin ($100) that connects to a 5
gallon bucket
Chrome pump faucet ($25)
that connects to a glass 5 gallon water bottle ($47)
Stainless steel propane stove ($120)
Here’s a list of features the van has now:
Vertical racks at the rear for shortboards, tripod, beach
umbrella, fishing rods and yoga mat
2. Raised bamboo grate, solar shower and shower curtain
that spans the two back doors to create an outside but private
shower area.
3. Sink and pump faucet
4. Propane stove with propane container mounted on outside
of van
5. Clothing storage and hanging rack
6. Top loading compressor fridge (energy efficient)
7. Food storage
8. Glass water jugs with pumps- padded and secured
9. Clothing and backpack hooks
10. Fold up third seat
11. Ventiline vent with 12v high power fan
12. Fold up bed- underside is a white board and cork board for
storyboarding, planning and note taking
13. Hammock mount and hammock desk- my most proud invention
(game changer when working)
14. Longboard sling on inner roof
15. First aid kit
16. Kitchen towel and paper towel rack
17. 2 sets of 32’ LED Christmas fairy lights
18. Compact wood stove 8” x 8” x 14” (yet to be
installed)
19. Rear exterior mounted propane cylinder and diesel gas
can
In total the build cost me around $8,000 for solar, lumber,
hardware, accessories and my friend Glen’s time. This wasn’t the
most complicated build out but I used high quality materials and
wanted to get it done quickly. The entire conversion would have
taken nine solid days start to finish with two people. I took a few
breaks during the finishing of the wood and installing the
remaining features so it’s taken two and a half weeks. You could
save a lot of money by doing it all yourself, using cheaper wood
(only using plywood for the walls), and not having full-on solar
system. I hope this was useful, here are a few links to help give
you ideas and more specific build information.