Shane Dorian's 2015-16 big-wave season caught in dazzling movie form!
The Hawaiian surfer Shane Dorian polarises nobody. Who can argue with the rugged way Shane handles himself on land (devoted father, self-sufficient hunter) and the way he wrangles big waves?
Shane’s also a creature wise, and even a little mysterious, in his beliefs.
On marriage he advises, “find out if she is an evil bitch BEFORE you take the plunge!”
On the ethics of hunting, he says, “Everyone automatically thinks I’m Satan cause I kill a deer. My friends will go spear fish and you can put 50 million dead fish on Instagram and no-one will ever say a thing. But, if you put one Bambi on Instagram people lose it. I don’t see the difference between fish and deer.”
On the joy of catching a perfect big wave Shane describes it thus: “It’s like being a super fucking ugly guy and having sex with the hottest super model on the planet. It’s like you pulled off the impossible. Because everything in the universe has to align for you to get this ride that you’ll remember for the rest of your life. And there should only be a handful of these in any surfers’ life, waves that you truly remember. That feeling is rare and elusive as hell. It’s a mix of pure elation and accomplishment.”
Below is a short movie made by his sponsor Reef on Shane’s 2015-2016 big-wave season. What’s interesting, I think, is the emotional hit a man, or gal, gets after fronting these sorts of waves.
“The comedown after such a tremendous event,” says Shane, “is almost like postpartum depression. You have this crazy euphoric moment when it’s happening where you’re on this razor’s edge and you feel like you’ve reached the absolute pinnacle of your life but then…almost in slow motion… it starts to fade as you reach the channel. Even though you just rode the wave of your life and you knew it and felt it while you were riding, it evaporates as you flick off and becomes, immediately, past tense. It’s such an emotional swing! You’re definitely not high forever.”
I heard the deer of Hawaii actually want to be shot by Shane. Nothing cruel about suicidal Deer.
got to love a bloke who wants to get barrelled at jaws
Shane surfs the way Kelly would be surfing if Kelly wasn’t competing.
He’s a better ad for being 43 than Christie Brinkley is for being 61.
I’d still chop Christie Brinkley. What about you?
Well I wouldn’t chop Shane-o.
are there still dingleberry’s out there who reckon he didn’t get barrelled properly on that last wave?
also, wonder what kind of psychological boost he gets from having the “hunchback” on.
the way he is knifing into those waves is a new level.
As a surfer, how can anybody not like Shano? Respect.
I hear ya, but You’re asking an a bunch of anonymous trolls on a internet forum… Im sure a comprehensive list of why not to like Shane could be compiled.
Its a short list but how about;
– The white shirt he wore “In Gods Hands”?
– His earnest rugged thousand yard stare?
– The fact he has amazing steeze in waves of all proportions?
You’re right – I’ve got nothing. Shane is surfings version of Leonidas from Sparta and we all bloody love him…
Thats a solid start, may I add…
He also seems very insensitive to inner city Vegan goths ideals.
He pioneered those silly little inflatable vests that just makes his hunched over survival stance look worse.
He has a decidedly un-professional work ethic in regards to getting deeper in the pit at Jaws. I mind surf those waves at least 10-15m deeper.
I’ve heard he sways to the lame end of RnB.
His signature surf-tech SD-3 model, looked great but was ultimately to narrow for my expanding needs. I lost some serious coin on the re-sale…
His vouching for Nazare as a legitimate gnarly big wave spot destroyed my mush-burger argument.
I’ve never seen a photo of his wife. What sort of man denies his fans that?
He wears Dragon sunglasses.
Along with Slater he has pushed the old guy charging realm out afew more years, and thus making me feel even more bitter about my declining ability.
True. That thought crossed my mind as I posted.