This interview, however, is too good to ignore. Recorded immediately following Slater’s win at the Teahupoo Pro, it concentrates, entirely, on his jiujitsu game, although Slater’s digressions include talk of his optioning the Peter Maguire book on seventies drug-trafficking Thai Stick and the benefits of food combining.
Both interviewer and interviewee are seated, and it’s in this position that we watch as Slater’s triceps stand out like brown snakes, ready to strike. Readers of a rainbow stripe might feel compelled to knead the smooth brown skin.
“It’s their property; they can do what they want with it!"
Did you know that southern California’s most iconic wave and North America’s only World Surf League tour stop might get disappeared? Might slip from the general public’s limp grasp back into the iron fist of the United States Marine Corps? The mighty hand of the United States Navy?
Today, the Orange County Register’s Laylan Connelly has reported that the lease between the Department of Defense and the state of California is set to expire in five short years. The Department of Defense actually owns the land but has leased it to California since 1971. The Nixon years!
Let’s read about it!
…the talks between the state and military are starting, and it’s anyone’s guess where the discussions will lead.
“The only thing we got from them is that it probably won’t be resolved until the end,” Long. “We won’t have an answer this year. The Parks are stating our position – that (the beach) continues to be accessible to the public as it is today, hopefully.”
Carl B. Redding Jr., public affairs director for Camp Pendleton, said lease agreements are usually determined about two years before a deadline.
A letter from state parks officials was submitted and received by the Marine Corps Installations West staff this month, and the military is preparing a response. Redding said the Department of the Navy will have final approval of any lease deal.
Among the list of possible changes: Modifying the public beach zone by changing the borders and/or the size of the park.
Dave Ethington, a San Onofre Parks Foundation board member, said there are other possibilities.
“It’s their property; they can do what they want with it,“ Ethington said, referring to the Department of Defense.
“They can take it back and administer it for themselves. They can renew the lease,” he added. “I think those are the options.”
Ethington believes it’s unlikely the land would be sold for development.
“The fear is they would chop it up and change the park,” he said. “That’s our concern, that they would take sections of the park. … Maybe they would want a little more space.
“Not that any of those things are sitting there in a plan.”
They have five years to sort out the details.
Can you imagine a world without Trestles? Where would young Brazilians flock? Which stop could Jordy Smith win? What would Kolohe and Dino do with their long afternoons together?
Let’s say the military did get it back though. Would you enlist?
(Editor’s note: This story, by the Lisbon-based writer Sam Einstein, interests me because it demonstrates the perennial war between surfers who can skate, and those who don’t. Sam skates. Sam surfs. And while the tweaked slob straight airs of Noa Deane and Dane Reynolds render me breathless, Sam thinks they’re hideous. He reasons his case below.)
Airs. One day they are cool, the next they’re not. One contest everyone’s jealously sandbagging Brazilians for doing too many airs while getting a Pottz-sized hard on for (insert lighter skinned surfer)’s rail game.
The next, everyone praises Slater for aerially emasculating Jack Freestone.
“Too many reverses.”
“Not enough power surfing.”
“We need more progression.”
There was always something rather homoerotic about passionately preferring a big, strong man’s powerful, yet beautiful, aggressive, yet stylish, spray-sending rail game. I don’t know where I was going with that.
But airs and style do mix. Growing up skating vert, doing airs was the whole point. Rotations were easily distinguishable (Slater’s air was a 720 dammit) and there were clear style no-nos in regards to grabs. Things are not so simple in surfing, to the bewilderment of any other board sport patron.
Since surfing has bitten skating’s style since the early air days of the 80’s, let’s peer through its lens and examine 2015/16’s en vogue move: the tweaked slob straight air. From Dane Reynolds to Noa Deane and every ‘aerialist’ in between, this move has been making the rounds ensuring useable clips. Through the lens of a skater, they are hideous.
While I am relishing the fact that no-grab straight airs are kinda cool again (it’s all I got), the fact that between the legs stinkbug grabs are the shit in surfing is beyond me.
Call to action: grab over your front knee!
While I am undoubtedly coming across as a keyboard warrior, I am writing this as a Public Service Announcement. A proper, tuck-knee slob grab (or tuck-knee front side grab for that matter) will not only look infinitely better, but will separate you from the stinkbuggy herd.
Illuminating four-minute short on Kelly Slater's recent artshow, Apolitical Process.
Yeah, sure, we’ve been milking the hell out of Kelly Slater’s art show in Venice last week. But what do you do? Where I found the event, viewed from far, as smooth and as licked as bathroom porcelain, BeachGrit‘s writer for the night, the noted broadcaster David Lee Scales found it irrational and unpersuasive.
The New York-based, born-in-Canada magazine, Vice, just published a four-minute short on the event, one that, to me, gives the best window into the show. We see the anti-Sea World painted boards of Kevin Ancell (the sharp-eyed reader will note Vice gets Ancell’s name wrong – accuracy, or balance for that matter, aren’t Vice strong points), the surreal and mutated sculptures of Florida’s Bruce Reynolds and Todd Glaser’s monochrome photography.
If you, like most, recoil at the likelihood of a Trump presidency, you’ll love Bruce Reynolds’ eloquent The Great Wall of Trump.
“This is a cautionary tale… I sometimes feel that our leadership is selected, not elected,” says Reynolds.
One more incident proving that we shouldn't be allowed guns.
There’s not much real violence in Hawaii. Plenty fights, but usually nothing too serious. Just some guys scrapping over something dumb. Pretty easy to find some fisticuffs outside a bar post-midnight, but that’s the deal pretty much everywhere. Young men get drunk, don’t get laid, get in a fight.
Almost no gun violence. Because there aren’t many guns. Too hard, too expensive, to get your hands on them. And I’m cool with that. I dig guns, in theory. But in reality I think the average person is too stupid to handle the responsibility of owning a hunk of metal that slings chunks of lead at a million miles hour. I’m definitely too stupid.
Yeah, there are always lunatic criminal types, but they mainly go after each other. Like the violence on Kauai. Tons of violent crimes in Kapaa, just down the road from my house. But it’s just chronics bashing each other over chronic drama. Garbage humans hurting other garbage humans over the garbage bullshit they think is important. Pretty much victimless crimes.