Jamie O'Brien once had the strangest man ever in
surf as his agent. Come and meet!
I dug out an old machine yesterday and it
has reams and reams and reams of half-finished writing bits, lost
interviews, buried personalities, flotsam and jetsam.
And this.
Jamie O’Brien once had the strangest man to ever dance
through this surf world as his agent. I spent lots of time with him
and could never quite decide if he was an untethered genius or
disturbed giant. Just like Ignatius J. Reilly.
He confused absolutely anyone he came across. Confounded
them. And yet he made Jamie into a surf personality. Like or hate,
Jamie has succeeded far above what was rightfully his.
Anyone who came across this man in this surf world has
stories. If you do tell it to me in the comments!
Here is one of mine recording the first time we
met.
The orange Australian is wedged, semi-comfortably, between table
and un-upholstered bench, in a private dining suite. His girth
necessitates an economy of movement. Chopsticks held in hand,
brought to mouth. Champagne flute, held in other, brought to mouth.
There is a sort of general stillness, except for the hands and the
mouth.
“And mate. Don’t go fucken telling me for one fucken minute that
digi-cammo would not sell. Look. Parkour requires both dexterity
and the ability to get lost in a crowd. The whole fucken art was
started to allude fucken autoritarian figures. It, like digi-cammo,
is born out of functionality, not some sort of bull fucken shit
fashion bourgeoisie mentality.”
A double extra-large Spike Lee dressed as Mars Blackman peers,
menacingly, from a well-washed black t-shirt.
“But parkour is uncool.” I retort. He snorts and grabs for a
delicate piece of Kobe beef.
It is thus how I meet Andrew Long. I am jet-lagged from a longer
than expected flight from Sydney to Tokyo. I always had the two
cities close. Maybe it is because I heard stories of Japanese
designs on Australia during WWII and figured Sydney to be the
target. Baz Luhrmann corrected me later in the epic
Australia.
The private dining suite is located at the topmost floor of a
Ginza high-rise. It’s lacquered black sliding door opens
periodically and a demure Japanese boy enters with either more
entrees or more drinks. Sake, sushi, Dom Perignon. The entire meal
is on the hotel. Last time Andrew ate here a cockroach was found in
his soba.
“The fucken surf industry is not even smart enough to fucken
know that the surfers on the tour cannot move product. Best case
scenario, a surfer who rides for a brand wins. Nobody will buy more
of that brand thanks to the victory. Worst case scenario, a surfer
who rides for a brand loses and everybody stops buying that brand
thanks to perceived fucken taint.”
The lacquered black sliding door opens again and a nonplussed
manager is standing with another bottle of Dom Perignon. Andrew
keeps talking, spitting little fishlets out of his orange
mouth.
“The fucken surf industry…blah blah blah.”