Rip city: Japanese man makes adventure!

Have you ever been caught in a vicious rip current? Did you survive?

I’m still in Japan etc. Snowboarding. Pow. Turns. Miso. Edamame. Etc. but did you read the story about the Japanese man who is in Australia and drifted 6 kilometers out to sea whilst surfing Bulli Beach south of Sydney?

6 kilometers!

Let’s read about him!

He got into trouble in a current, tried to paddle back into shore, but the waves were too big, he told police.

“He was attempting to paddle back in for six hours before he ran out of energy and drifted at sea,” Inspector Darren Wood from the Marine Area Command of NSW Police said.

He spent the night clinging to his surfboard and it is estimated he spent about 16 hours in the water.

Luckily, the eagle-eyed crew of the 300-metre long container ship MSC Damla spotted the man on top of his yellow surfboard.

As he drifted alongside the ship, the crew threw him a life buoy, and were able to pull him aboard.

He was given food and drink and warm clothing, and the crew contacted authorities. A boat was sent out to the container ship to retrieve him.

He was taken to Wollongong Hospital where a doctor said he was in surprisingly good health with high spirits, and he was discharged Friday afternoon.

Police said there was no active search conducted for the man, as he was not reported missing.

The surfer told the police he had travelled to Australia a couple of times before.

“He appears to be travelling by himself, and that was why no-one was alerted to the fact that he was stuck in this rip and that he was out there,” Inspector Wood said.

And what a feel-good story!

Have you ever been caught in a really bad rip current? I was once in Oregon and had to cling to a rock whilst my Nev potato chip got ripped off my leg and probably went all the way to Japan.

Kalani Chapman wipeout
LIfeguards successfully perform CPR on Pipeline big-waver Kalani Chapman after a wipeout at Da Hui Backdoor Shootout.

Kalani Chapman Almost Dies at Pipe!

Big-waver found unconscious, no pulse, after wipeout… 

It’s a sobering sight to see lifeguards surround a lifeless soul on the beach as they take turns pumping his chest, desperate to kick-start a dead heart.

Yesterday afternoon, in the final heat of the day’s Da Hui Backdoor Shootout, Kalani Chapman rode a Second Reef Pipe wave to the Ehukai sandbar where he wiped out in the tube. He didn’t come up.

Competitors Seth Moniz and Nathan Florence saw Kalani’s tombstoning board and pulled him to the surface with his leash. Unconscious, Kalani was dragged onto the surf patrol’s sled and taken to the beach where CPR was successfully performed.

Kalani, who is thirty four years old and the half-brother of another Pipeline charger Shawn Briley and nephew of North Shore icon Owl Chapman, was one of  handful of angels who rescued Evan Geiselman when he was knocked unconscious at Pipe last year.

You can see Kalani’s rescue, below, at the fifty-second mark. Hawaii News Now – KGMB and KHNL

Eureka: Introducing our new star!

The contest to Be Our Next Rory Parker ends with a bang!

Three-ish weeks ago Rory Parker left the building and maybe broke some hearts on his way out the door. He didn’t break my heart. I didn’t care and was also glad to be done with his limp whinging, his overcooked noodle of a bad attitude. In my eyes the Rory Parker Method was summed up, quite neatly, by his ham-fisted hatred of children.

Easy targets with no way to punch back.

Anyhow, it excited me to get on with it. Was there another voice out there waiting to be heard? An undiscovered star who simply needed a stage?

And of course there was! As fate would have it an eleven-year-old girl smashed any piece of writing that has ever been on our beloved BeachGrit!

Sabre Norris!

Oh did you read her work today? It is splendid in almost every way from rhythm to timing to content to delivery to voice to style to honesty to lack of pretension. It was glorious to read, funny, informative and… well… fun!

The perfect blend!

I read it just minutes ago (in Japan, snowboarding etc.) over the great Travis Rice’s shoulder. He had to turn around four times, four, and say, “She wrote this?” I smiled and nodded yes.

Sabre… you’ve got a very bright future no matter what you choose to do. A Matt Biolos surfboard (trust me… you’ll love even if you have a board sponsor already). And a spot on BeachGrit whenever you’ve got something to say.

I would write “You win!”

… except we are actually the winners.

FORMER Releases Cryptic Insta Account

What's going on here....

Three years ago Dane Reynolds made an Instagram account because of Cam Richards. Three hours ago Former made an Instagram account, Luxurious29.99, because business needed to be handled once more.

And the content? Strange, cryptic, very What-Youthy.

Here are a couple examples of their caption-less “art”.

T-shirt graphics or Michael Jackson’s over-zoomed eyebrows? Who knows!

Do I like it, aesthetically? Not really. Does it tell us anything? Nup. Am I missing something? Probably.

Then again art has never been my thing, the modern variety in particular. But even outside of personal preference, I just don’t understand the point of this release. In theory multiple functioning minds approved this plan, meaning that there should be some sort of big idea behind it. But when I see the Instagram all I can think is that they’re attempting to be enigmatic and cool, a pursuit which ultimately lends itself to the contrary.

The only bit of info I can haphazardly infer is that they’ll be selling “luxurious” somethings (probably shirts) for $29.99 a pop. To which I ask: USD or AUD? The answer to this query could make or break their entire scheme.

Hey that reminds me… Derek did you mean 150 Australian or American peanuts for the month?

Brad Flora: The New Noa Deane?

Portugal bares its teeth but Brad bites back!

2017 arrives and the world continues its erratic but altogether downward spiral. Noa Deane inks a reported 500k per annum deal with Volcom, meanwhile Rip Curl cuts off Brad Flora’s supply of wetsuits, T-shirts, and food stamps. This seems unjust condsidering they are, basically, the same person.

Don’t believe me? Let’s take a look at the data:

Well, well, well. Nepotism rears its dreadful head once again. I’m not saying that Noa is only rich and famous because his parents were great surfers from a historically prevalent surfing region, but this Excel spreadsheet is.

After all Brad is from Maryland. The Old-Line State. Known mostly for an aquarium and the fact that our nation’s capital has sieged its western border. Maryland also has a small coastal community called Ocean City (how clever!), and like the majority of the east coast it sometimes gets a decent wave. This is where Brad honed his craft.

But Brad was always bigger than Ocean City, so by way of a Rip Curl contract he moved to California to pursue his passion of rinsing chicks and puffing darts. He also found the Pacific shores a suitable place to surf, so in his free time he took to the sea.

Brad’s surfing commands attention. When he takes off, the collective lineup peers over its shoulder, anxiously awaiting whatever spin/flip/tweak variation may be in store. He’ll hit any section, regardless of pier or rock or human in his direct field of vision. Sounds trite, but he truly doesn’t seem to give a fuck, and it’s fabulous.

Only his knees and ankles and Rip Curl may feel differently.