Many die.
And if you happen to be in California, where are you surfing this morning? Is your step-up big enough? Does it contain enough volume? Probably not! It’s Big Sunday!
Multiple people have died so far during this wild run of swell. Two Chinese nationals up near Pebble Beach. A paraglider who coasted into the sea and then got swamped. A man bodysurfing near Morro Rock.
But, and again, where are you surfing? Do you have your big wave spot dialed or do you go to your normal spot and smash against cascading white wash?
Do you watch the buoys like Shane Dorian and plan your attack or do you drive to a parking lot overlooking some whatever beachbreak, put your wetsuit half on and stand and watch for 2 hrs before going home and getting into the bath?
Do you like surfing bigger waves or do you just paddle out because that little voice in your head whispers, “Sissy…” if you don’t?
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Big Balls sunday
Thats not an article Chas, thats a twitter post. Nobody wants to read your click-bait 200 word wonders
There were as many bombs as there were complete idiots at La Jolla Cove today. Watched a Japanese tourist almost get sucked into Poseidon’s ass crack.
Did he get blown out?
He got his pants wet. He was very very lucky.
Chas opted for Marine Room.
Is that Chas hidden in the backwash somewhere? I am sure this is a copyright violation, but who cares, it is the BG.
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I like to wait for the biggest swells of a generation and paddle out at the most sheltered of inside corner and report to lay people that I surfed the 1 in 50 year storm and then avoid looking at myself in the mirror.
Today was a different story!
I have a mental picture of you standing tall like bohdi in point break gazing out at giant closeouts with a Mexican blanket on your head saying “just waiting on my set”.
…in a car park 7 miles from the coast
Not that the movie POINT BREAK is the bastion of surfing common sense, but that line REALLY bothers me. What the hell is he going to do when his set does come in? He is on the damn beach.
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Well, certainly not paddle to new Zealand. Or did he?