It’s a big steep drop, super fast, you get totally charged...
If you are a semi-regular here you know I am working on a book and oh how it’s killing me! I either forgot how difficult it is to pull the threads of a story together or… something. My head is a wreck all the time and my fingers sore. I’ve probably smashed out near 100,000 words so far and a good 60% of them have ended up on the floor amidst tears and spilled booze. Here’s 141 of them right here from an interview with the great Michael Oblowitz, director of Sea of Darkness and the upcoming Sunny Garcia doc.
If you’re young you do a line of coke paddle out at Pipe, get barreled, paddle back in and do another line. Paddle in and out. Paddle in and out. I think that is why Pipeline became such a hot wave. Because it is so close to the shore. You’ve got the houses, everything right there. Pipeline is the ultimate cocaine wave, ok? It’s a big steep drop, super fast, you get totally charged, you go flying out the back and you’ve got to bust a move up to one of the Pipe houses, run back and get another one. That’s a coke wave. Mavericks is a speed wave. All those guys were all doing methedrine because it’s so far out there and you’re gonna be out there forever. You need a drug that’s more enduring. Cocaine is definitely not enduring.
A good quote and it makes me think… if Pipe is coke and Maverick is speed then what is Bells? What about Main Break?
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“Old mans”
it’s like, Viagra, so many hot little longboard chicks in scantily clad bathing suits, duck diving in front of me….boing!! Just like viagra, you bust a chub in your boardshorts every time.
Consult the lifeguard if surfing for more than 4 hrs
Same thing happened to me except l paddled out, giant Lacerations stuck on Nusa Dua. G Wizz, quite an anecdote indeed. Psilocybin in mediated portions if at all, if you will.
Mullet surfs slab on too much psilocybin.
Took off on a bomb, saw seven different lips that looked like liquid emerald panthers roaring, clawing towards me, bending then morphing, over & past me. All sound became a low rumbling thunder the glistening ocean sheath began growing from & around me.. Then all of the Sea became the Holey Mother herself, standing before me sunlit lucid jade eternal. She rose embracing me, her aqua spiraling arms picking me up, cradling me to her womb & bosom. Our hearts beat echoed.. the breath of purerist life.. the whirling gravitons of shimmering light.. Home.. Then everything went upside down, my head went underwater, a green & brown Rhinoceros,s head then impact! I saw colours, sparkling stars & light speed winged unicorns explode into white. I woke up in Dempasar hospital, cathida, drip & a steel pinned macramé kit scaffolding my head. Luckily “my friend” saw my barrel attempt, studied medicine & hooked up a chopper.The Drs did well enough for the flight home to the Surgeon & Craniologist.
Mainbreak is the heartless realization that you are out of both money and drugs.
Bummer. That’s what I get for making flippant poo jokes.
Cipro gave me IBS
Probably why Andy surfed pipe so well
What is so terrible about one of the best waves in the world, that you gotta surf it high? Losers.
Sertraline- for the multiple personality disorder of the troll of bells!
MC’s on the front foot following being trumped on Margies day 1 report by Longtom. MC ‘s quantity over quality approach is definitely working to his own personal strengths as well…Advantage MC at this stage.
“Sea Of Darkness” what worm hole do i have to crawl into to have a viewing.. Send me a yellow brick road..
Is your email on your Disqus account active?
Hey ummmm has Bunker 77 leaked? Asking for a friend
I know a guy, that knows a guy who may have copy on his laptop…
Lemme know xox
Hook it up! Would love to see that one…
Mine is Negs if you’re still in a giving mood
Please email me too Negs! Busting to see this
Just enabled..
Yew! Man o man I’m dying as well. I’m literally begging to catch a glimpse at this jewel!
ohhh share that shit. I wanna see it toooo. cannot believe it was buried.
DrunkieAngelito, get at me, I got you with that Oblowitz!
Do the right thing BitchGrit, for once, post a youtube link to Sea of Darkness for everyone to watch…wel at least your 50 or so established community.
isnt that faggot kelly slater the owner of the film or some shit.?
Nicotine and caffeine for Bells and Main Break.
Technically they are drugs/waves but they are shit.
More importantly Negs have you run into Tom Carroll in NZ surfing bombs as coastalwatch reports
somebody please run into him! I keep getting text updates, “it’s pumping! Look!!” etc, I can’t take it.
J-bay is heroin. Long, drawn-out, euphoric as hell, and dangerous as fuck.
weed is horrible for Bells, you feel small, cold and alone.
Bells is like chemotherapy, it causes nausea and your hair falls out but you’re better for it in the long run
depends which one of the now millions of strains you toke. me, i never ouch the stuff. ‘orrible orrible are drugs.
alcohol is NOT a drug. I am sure of it.
Can’t wait for this Sunny Garcia documentary – said nobody ever!
Just wait for it…it’ll be better after his next bout of incarceration.
ill give you the cliff notes:
chip on shoulder since he was a kid
not really hawaiian, but puerto rican–see surname “garcia”
divorced three times
been to jail
only move is forehand snap
his mother never hugged him enough
Dunno, but I’d recommend ciprofloxacin or trimethoprim-sulfamethoxazole for Rio.
Prozac is the go to for Bitchy grit reporters.
Weed
man