A revealing documentary made by the creator of
vampire porn!
Surfing is often a beigetableau. Not very anti-depressive but true!
Personality gets squeezed from the littlest fruits. Lack of opinion
carries the day. Etc.
And then there is Sunny Garcia and then there is Michael
Oblowitz.
Sunny you know, or at least think you know. His fire, his
surfing, his drive, his life. He is the rarest of exceptions.
Michael Oblowitz you may not know but should. The South African
filmmaker most notable for vampire pornos is a gift to the surf
world and one we don’t deserve. He is unafraid. He is brash. He is
bold.
He started this film very many years ago, he calls it the
“Boyhood of surfing” referencing the famous Linklater film
that took 11 years to make. He references incidents in Sunny’s
life, like showing up late for his Pipeline heat in 2009. All he
had to do is paddle out and he would have won the Triple Crown. But
he didn’t show.
I happened to be on the beach that day too and watched Sunny
fight over his singlet with Randy Rarick and smiled. Not at Sunny’s
bummer but at his rage. There was enough spark to light surfing for
a decade and that is what we need more than anything else.
We need Sunny Garcia!
The film will be released soon and obviously much watch but in
the meantime come and listen to its director. Come bathe in a sea
of personality.
Oh, and count how many dead people appear in the film!
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Update: Still waiting by mailbox!
By Chas Smith
I haven't heard if WSL CEO Paul Speaker has
accepted my resume. Can you give me some encouragement?
Sorry to put this on you. I just need a little encouragement.
Tell me that WSL CEO Paul Speaker is going to choose me. Tell me
that I’ll be his number one forever.
#executiveassistantlyphe
Please?
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Day 1, Portugal: “Elves Can’t Ride Star
Ships!”
By Rory Parker
Rory Parker's searching analysis from day one of
the Moe Rip Curl Pro…
Day one, round one, Peniche Pro, Portugal is in the
history books. Theoretically. Not much went down that
could actually end up in one.
Good surf. Not great, but still damn rippable. Plenty of punchy
air sections, the occasional solid little drainer. I know I’m
spoiled living in Hawaii. Doesn’t really look all that inviting to
me. But it’d be all time for most of you poor fuckers.
My alcohol-fueled dreams are typically pretty strange. Last
night was no exception. Elves can’t ride on star ships, apparently.
My subconscious mind was very concerned by that. Had to evacuate
the planet. But we couldn’t bring the elves. There was more to it,
but I’ve only been up for a few minutes and already the details are
slipping away…
Peniche time is eleven hours ahead of Kauai time, so the heats
ran while I was locked into a drunken slumber. My alcohol-fueled
dreams are typically pretty strange. Last night was no exception.
Elves can’t ride on star ships, apparently. My subconscious mind
was very concerned by that. Had to evacuate the planet. But we
couldn’t bring the elves. There was more to it, but I’ve only been
up for a few minutes and already the details are slipping away…
My mild hangover doesn’t mesh well with wading through the
entire day. That’s a lot of surfing. Twelve damn heats. So I’ll
just cherry pick some highlights. In no particular order.
First off, the two men battling for the title both took a round
one loss. Terrible for a campaign that’s coming down to the
wire.
Medina got spanked by a wildcard. Grabbed two solid scores to
start the heat and grab the lead, but wasn’t able to improve on
either wave. He tried, heaved his carcass off the lip of a few
solid sections. But just couldn’t land it.
Huge result for Frederico Morais. Not good for Gabby. He faces
Callinan in round two, which should be a walk-through for the
Brazilian. But you never really know. Everyone on tour rips, and
winning often requires a little luck.
John John didn’t do much better. Rosy says he could possibly win
the title at this event. I’ll take her word for it. Anything that
spills from those honeyed lips must be true.
The tow-head kid from Hawaii surfed like shit. By his standards.
One of those sessions where you just…forget how to ride a wave.
Stance slightly off, out of rhythm, falling on standard turns.
I mean, I’d killed someone, literally, to surf as well as JJ on
an off day. But it still landed him in third place, with Jadson
Andre and the events second wild card, Miguel Blanco, standing on
his head.
John John meets Blanco again in round two. Like with
Medina/Callinan, it should be an easy win for the current tour
leader. But wild cards are scary draws. Love to play spoilers.
Crush dreams.
Wilko continued his slow slide to the bottom. Abysmal showing
against Callinan and Pupo.
Wilko’s up against Flores in round two. If he surfs the way he
did in round one it’ll be an easy victory for the Frenchman. And
Flores desperately needs a good result. Without one, maybe two,
he’ll be gone next year. I think. As I’ve stated many times, math
is hard when you don’t want to bother with it.
Is it even possible for Flores to re-qualify? Can someone tell
me?
Slater easily dispatched Stu Kennedy and Banting with a sick
forehand full roter to flats stomp. Followed it up with a gorgeous
backside pig-dog drainer. Came out with the mini ‘poof’ spit.
Kelly’s still got the gift, even if it doesn’t show up as often as
it used to.
Speaking of gifts, the wife’s birthday is just around the
corner. Always a stressful time for me, because I can’t learn a
lesson. Each year she tells me what she wants, but I insist on
wasting hours poring over the million options I can surprise her
with. Without fail she says, “But I wanted x.”
This year will be different. She’s getting exactly what she
asked for. A three day stay-cation at one of the cabins in Kokee,
plus one other thing. I’m also toying with the idea of picking up
one of the make-your-own-dildo kits off
Amazon. I get a real kick out of the idea of a black
replica of my dong. But if I’m being totally honest I’m one hundred
percent positive that the thing will eventually end up in my ass.
I’m more than comfortable enough with my own sexuality to handle
that, but I’m also dead certain that she’d eventually get wasted at
a dinner party and tell everyone that she fucks me with my own
cock. Which would be awkward, I think.
One neat moment was Alejo Muniz’s kerrupt flip, a poorly named
maneuver if there ever was one, against none other than Kerrzy
himself.
I get a real kick out of the idea of a black replica of my dong.
But if I’m being totally honest I’m one hundred percent positive
that the thing will eventually end up in my ass. I’m more than
comfortable enough with my own sexuality to handle that, but I’m
also dead certain that she’d eventually get wasted at a dinner
party and tell everyone that she fucks me with my own cock.
It may have been the heat of the day. While Ace Buchan struggled
to find a score, Kerr and Muniz went back and forth with some very
good surfing. Kerr ended up with an 8.33 for a safety grab
frontside 360 aerial and a 7.57 for a fairly deep, but fairly
quick, backhand tube.
Muniz came at him with the aforementioned kerrupt, which he
linked into a snap, for a 7.83. Then a frontside blow-tail
frontside grab rev for 7.93.
Very close heat. Kerr snagged the ‘w’ by .14. Personally, I’d’ve
gone the other way. I really like it when a guy lands a decent air
and keeps surfing, rather than banging off the end section. I think
that should add a bit to the score. Not a huge amount, but enough
that Muniz would’ve skipped round two.
My opinion may be colored by the fact that I can’t even fathom
throwing an alley-oop while grabbing kerrupt. My joints scream just
thinking about it. But there was once a time when I could throw
frontside revs until the cows came home. Hardly ever actually
landed them, but I can envision doing so.
One last moment worth mentioning, Italo Ferreira’s 8.67 in the
final heat of the day. It’s a real pet peeve of mine, when the
judges reward a guy for pumping past a bunch of sections before
boosting at the end. It was a magnificent air, to be sure, but I
can’t help but feel there was more than 1.33 between what Italo did
and actually surfing the wave to perfection. Italo’s on my fantasy
team, though, so I’m not too bothered.
All in all, a decent day of surfing. Swell forecast shows a
little bump on the way. Hopefully tomorrow, or twelve hours from
now, really, it’ll be even better.
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Watch: Kelly Slater’s Nine Pointer!
By Derek Rielly
Daddy swings doors on the opening day of the Rip
Curl Pro, Portugal!
Legacy means something to me. And, so,
every time I see Kelly Slater in that little plywood locker room
getting ready for a heat in Europe and it’s not eight feet, oh, my
lips just turn down. I can imagine the embarrassed smiles as kids
give the old man the once over then turn away with a dismissive
flick of their locks.
Every year, the organisation upon whose success he is almost
solely responsible for, sends out their champ in conditions that’d
have a grommet event looking around for options: France,
with an outgoing tide tearing through a two-foot lineup; Portugal,
high-tide and weak. A malevolent drain on a master’s magic.,
And earlier today on the opening day of the Moe Rip Curl Pro
Portugal?
Three-foot closeouts so difficult, Filipe Toledo caught fourteen
waves and couldn’t land a thing. So when Kelly paddles out among
the strewn round one corpses of John John Florence (beaten by
Jadson Andre), Julian Wilson (beaten by Kai Otton), Wilko (beaten
by Miguel Pupo), Gabriel Medina (beaten by Frederico Morais)
and Filipe Toledo (Wiggolly Dantas), well, you’d hope he had enough
beige foundation at home to cover the inevitable bruises.
And, then, this. I was so impressed I thought I
might spontaneously explode.
“I was trying to find a peak down to the South I thought I saw a
couple rights, I pulled in a couple of barrels on my first three
waves but I realized this wasn’t going to work unless it was a
straight peak and no wall,” said Kelly. “Then I saw that right and
knew there wasn’t much in it except for an air so I took as much
speed as I could and hit it as late as I could and that one stuck.
I took a few days for myself in France and feel relaxed now.”
Daddy’s nine-pointer!
Watch the post-show here!
Meo Rip Curl Pro Portugal Round 1 Results:
Heat 1: Kai Otton (AUS) 12.43, Nat Young (USA) 11.77, Julian Wilson
(AUS) 11.40
Heat 2: Kolohe Andino (USA) 10.76, Keanu Asing (HAW) 9.94, Alex
Ribeiro (BRA) 7.23
Heat 3: Jordy Smith (ZAF) 12.30, Jeremy Flores (FRA) 11.94, Kanoa
Igarashi (USA) 11.37
Heat 4: Miguel Pupo (BRA) 14.34, Ryan Callinan (AUS) 13.20, Matt
Wilkinson (AUS) 7.63
Heat 5: Frederico Morais (PRT) 11.37, Gabriel Medina (BRA) 9.76,
Conner Coffin (USA) 8.03
Heat 6: Jadson Andre (BRA) 13.20, Miguel Blanco (PRT) 11.17, John
John Florence (HAW) 9.94
Heat 7: Wiggolly Dantas (BRA) 10.94, Filipe Toledo (BRA) 9.53, Adam
Melling (AUS) 8.00
Heat 8: Kelly Slater (USA) 15.83, Matt Banting (AUS) 10.77, Stuart
Kennedy (AUS) 9.63
Heat 9: Josh Kerr (AUS) 15.90, Alejo Muniz (BRA) 15.76, Adrian
Buchan (AUS) 7.84
Heat 10: Adriano De Souza (BRA) 14.17, Jack Freestone (AUS) 13.50,
Caio Ibelli (BRA) 11.24
Heat 11: Joel Parkinson (AUS) 14.83, Davey Cathels (AUS) 12.66,
Michel Bourez (PYF) 10.66
Heat 12: Italo Ferreira (BRA) 15.00, Sebastian Zietz (HAW) 14.83,
Dusty Payne (HAW) 12.27
Meo Rip Curl Pro Portugal Round 2
Match-Ups:
Heat 1: John John Florence (HAW) vs. Miguel Blanco (PRT)
Heat 2: Gabriel Medina (BRA) vs. Ryan Callinan (AUS)
Heat 3: Matt Wilkinson (AUS) vs. Jeremy Flores (FRA)
Heat 4: Julian Wilson (AUS) vs. Alex Ribeiro (BRA)
Heat 5: Filipe Toledo (BRA) vs. Adam Melling (AUS)
Heat 6: Adrian Buchan (AUS) vs. Matt Banting (AUS)
Heat 7: Sebastian Zietz (HAW) vs. Alejo Muniz (BRA)
Heat 8: Michel Bourez (PYF) vs. Jack Freestone (AUS)
Heat 9: Caio Ibelli (BRA) vs. Davey Cathels (AUS)
Heat 10: Stuart Kennedy (AUS) vs. Dusty Payne (HAW)
Heat 11: Nat Young (USA) vs. Conner Coffin (USA)
Heat 12: Keanu Asing (HAW) vs. Kanoa Igarashi (USA)
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Update: My fingers are so crossed!
By Chas Smith
I just sent my resume in to be Paul Speaker's
number one!
Sooooooooo yesterday I was sent the job
description for my DREAM JOB!
The EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT to CEO of WORLD SURF LEAGUE.
Do you even know who that is? Do you?
Paul Speaker!
PAUL MOTHERFUCKING SPEAKER!
I was so nervous, so excited, so pulsing with energy that I
couldn’t even write my application until this morning.
I woke up, poured a stiff mug of black coffee and thought about
my resume.
Chas
Smith
2014-present BeachGrit co-founder/etc.
2004-2014 ???? some international travel etc.
1998-1998 Disneyland submarine driver
Good, no? But missing something. It has been a while since I
went to a job interview but don’t they ask for your strengths?
Should I put that on my resume?
Strengths:
-Good with Ron Dog Blakey Joe Turpel.
-Wears good shoes.
-Speaks Pottz semi-fluently.
Yeah. No? But don’t they also ask you weaknesses too? Ok.
Weaknesses:
-I care too much.
-I work too hard.
-I am too passionate about my work.
-I think Teahupo’o breaks in 6 inches of water and Kelly
Slater is a billionaire.
Perfect. Resume 101 make your strengths your weaknesses. Am I
right?
What else?
Oh! A reference!
Ummmmmmmmmm….
Eddie Rothman.
Sent!
I am going to sit by the mailbox until my congratulations letter
comes!