A man who can eat a habanero is a man who can survive a little bone marrow cancer!

Breaking: We Maybe Saved a Life!

Let's bask in our very own stench of glory!

Last week BeachGrit was successful in drawing Stab — particularly Stab‘s noted author Morgan Williamson — from its FCS-2-reinforced bunker. A wonderful victory indeed, but still not on par with today’s existential triumph.

Yesterday I wrote about a Spanish-Mexican man who went to Bali only to find out he had cancer. The man, Cristian Bosco, was stuck in Bali without proper medical care because his insurance wouldn’t cover the exorbitant airlift fee of $140,000.

So the world had a dilemma: help cover the costs of Cristian’s medevac, or let him die of a (hopefully) treatable disease in an ill-equipped hospital.

Thanks to support from surfers around the world, Cristian got his trip covered. Just a few hours ago I received an email update from Cristian’s crowdfunding site, saying (translated from Spanish):

Thank you all for showing that there are still people with generosity and human quality!! Cristian is already on his way to Spain, they had to put him in the business class section of a commercial plane, and they are using the entire section for his transfer; accompanied by a medical group as well as the medical devices needed to cope with the journey.

We hope he will arrive soon and receive treatment. For the trust you have placed in this case, we want to inform you that at the moment we will not need any more donations, as we are evaluating the expenses incurred to have Cristian back. Thank you very much again and we will soon communicate the progress of the case.

Now, how many of you received this email today? Three? Maybe five? Probably closer to three but we turned the scales regardless!

It simply cannot be a coincidence that Cristian’s transfer happened one day after BeachGrit spread the word. We are lifesavers, and not like those drunk Aussie-types!

Let’s hope those Spanish docs can pull through on their end of the bargain.

Listen: “Surf fashion laughs at you!”

Existential questions answered by Chas Smith on the podcast Surf Splendor.

Earlier today, Chas Smith, from BeachGrit, made his weekly appearance on the San Clemente-based podcast Surf Splendor.

Prior to the interview, Surf Splendor‘s David Lee Scales sent a document of topics to be discussed, which you can examine here.

Grit! June 29, 2017

The discussion is a good one despite “Chas being woefully underprepared. He hardly even skimmed the show outline,” David said afterwards.

It’s the first podcast I’ve ever listened to from start to finish. When I read “podcast” I think, unedited interview, a torturous spool of directionless back and forthing.

David is a marvellous host, however, who keeps the show tight. He has opinion but rarely sears it with bitterness. There are no persecution complex, no hot-potato, knee-jerk reactions.

The highlights: surf fashion as applied to the newish labels Former and Outerknown, a little something on why Rory Parker and BeachGrit stopped being pals, the either very good or very bad music on Albee Layer’s new short and whether or not Albee might be dumb (Chas, who has a degree in linguistics, promises to call and find out), some sorta blood feud and a few other not-so-solemn topics.

Listen here.


Eight foot White dances in front of Kelly Slater. Champ stays out, catches two waves. Nothing but contempt for these frisky animals!

Great White (Doesn’t) Spook Slater at Lowers!

Great White breaches in front of champ. He keeps surfing.

It’s been almost a while since our last shark fright in SoCal.

For a minute there, it felt like we might have a legitimate issue on our hands. Like we were gonna be the next Ballina or Reunion or lesser-known-but-equally-as-potent sharkbite hub, Maui. Luckily our whites are small and seem mostly non-aggressive, unless you’re a bather who decides to dance with a blood-spurting seal. (Is that really what happened, or are the fine people of San Clemente just victim-shaming?) Anyways.

According to recent reports, the sharks are still around, so any sense of surf-zone confidence is nothing more than ignorance disguised as bliss. None know this better than Robert Kelly Slater, who spent last evening frolicking close to a prehistoric beast. He said:

Do you think it was necessary, though, to add, “There were six people out and I think four of us saw it jump. Caught a couple more waves” *shaka*? Or was that a bit much?

Not one to claim his dick without swinging it, Slater dove deep into Lower’s camera rewind to find this blurry splashing out the back (This should be a video, but there’s no way (to my knowledge) to link an Instagram story. Imagine a small portion of the blue screen turning white for a brief moment, and you have the essence of the clip.)

Proof? Sure. But did you really doubt him in the first place? Did anyone? Kelly seems a little paranoid about his public persona, but maybe that’s a natural response to surf sites and their overzealous commenters psychoanalyzing his every move.

So, does this recent shark sighting make you feel anything? Has the fear risen from your toes, taken a quick pitstop to constrict the testicles, before continuing to erect every follicle across your hide? Or do you not give a fuck whatsoever?

I’m leaving for Costa tomorrow so leaning toward the latter.

Search: Rip Curl want “best dressed!”

Australian surf company seeks to raise sartorial bar!

The Rip Curl Cup in Padang Padang, Indonesia has been a historically wonderful event. Didn’t Jamie O’Brien win it once? I think he did. And didn’t a boat once shipwreck on the reef there and spill tons of oil into the water but Rip Curl ran, like, the next day anyhow? All foggy but I think true. And while I may have general beef with Rip Curl for being overly conservative and super afraid of hard-hitting surf journalism, we can totally agree on Padang Padang.

The upcoming contest, which has a waiting period from July 10th to August 1oth, is set to feature some of the most exciting surfers alive. The lineup of international surfers includes:

1) Tom Curren

2) Mason Ho

3) Damo Hobgood

4) Bruce Irons

5) Kai Otton

6) Bruno Santos

7) Clay Marzo

8) Jack Robinson

9) Jacob Wilcox

10) Ryan Burch

“Of these ten international surfers…” Rip Curl notes in the rules “…only eight will receive a spot in the event. Entry granted on a first-come, best-dressed basis.”

First-come, best-dressed?


Now before you send me over to Stab magazine’s Morgan Williamson’s house for an asymmetrical tongue lashing (I’m worried that he’ll call my young child mentally and physically retarded or write that my parents should be euthanized for being “dumb fucks”) I know that the phrase first-come, best-dressed is Australia’s equivalent to America’s first-come, first-served.

But let’s pretend for a minute that it is literal. Wouldn’t that be more fun? And which of the ten listed surfers is the best dressed?

Tom Curren?

Clay Marzo?

Damo Hobgood?

I’m pulling for Damien and, Damien if you are reading please feel free to stop by my house for a suit.

But who are you pulling for? Which of these ten is best-dressed in your mind?

Utopia: Electric Flying Surfboards!

Twelve thousand dollars apiece! Plus shipping and tax.

A little real talk. Most of us are butchers on our surf crafts.

We either go too slow, too fast, we’re too loose, too stiff, our cutbacks are too far on the face or we pointlessly launch into the air.

At some point, surely, a surfer recognises the futility of time and money wasted and moves towards a pursuit that suits his failings. Golf, for instance, or wandering, ever so sadly, around shopping centres on Saturday mornings with wives who long stopped reciprocating affection or desire, who feign sleep in bed, whose bodies stiffen at your touch.

Which is why the clip below elevates my heart rate and kicks my spirits into the skies. Surf like the Hawaiian prince Kai Lenny on a hydro-foil and… best part… no skill necessary!

The electric flying surfboard’s inventor Nicholas Leason explains his vision:

To harness the power of a wave and surf like a bird, although extremely rewarding, is difficult. Not because riding a foil is hard, but controlling the source -flying a kite or surfing a wave- takes skill. To harness that type of power and gain excellent control is something that may take years to master.

So I set out to make it easy.

I started with the simple task of strapping an electric motor to our foils. My team and I took some parts we had in the shop, cut holes in them, bought some parts off the shelf and pretty much duct-taped pieces together. It took some tweaking, but eventually we got our first ride of about 50 feet. 

From that moment on, I was possessed. Imagine taking someone that has never dreamt of surfing, deep powder snowboarding or flying. A person that doesn’t live the extreme lifestyle and within minutes they feel it all. They’re soaring like a bird, carving butter smooth turns and experiencing the freedom of flying through the freeways of the ocean, rivers or lakes. That was my goal, but what I thought would take a year to build took a whole lot more.

Anyway, took a few years, but the company Lift Foils is taking pre-orders for their electric flying surfboards. They cost twelve thousand American dollars, plus shipping and tax, and you gotta sling ’em a six-gee deposit to show ’em you’re serious.

Order here.