What sort of person are you when the surf turns on?
What happens to your heart when you know that better than good, maybe even epic, surf is headed your way? Does it soar into unspeakable ecstasy because you know exactly where you are going to go and at what time and with what board? Or does stutter into paroxysms of dislocation because should you go here or there? Should you go at this time or that? Should you ride one board or the other and whom should you invite?
When the surf is poor I feel we are all equal experts but when it has the chance to be good then we are separated by chasms. What is your “good surf is here” modus operandi? Are you…
…the sort that paddles out at the most well-known spot in the morning?
…the sort that sits with your map, tide booklet, while online looking at winds, pinpointing the place and moments you will surf?
…the sort that calls your bro who knows?
…the sort who heads out the front even though the swell is totally going to miss out the front?
…the sort who drives up and down the coast up and down the coast up and down the coast fearing that whichever spot you choose will not be the best of the best of the best?
…the sort that sits at home because it is going to be so fucking crowded everywhere and screw it?
…the sort heads toward the spot that the swell is missing on purpose because bigger waves scare?
…the sort that wishes “swell events” stopped happening because decisions are difficult?
…the sort that lives for this?
I am the sort that stalks Damien Hobgood and paddles out where I think he is on an inappropriately short surfboard.
Not too cool but also better than drive up and down the coast bro.
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I am the one that feels ready for 50 cm height, shitty sea-wind blowing waves and say ” Hey it was nice our there, small but I had fun” whereas the day of the big swell I say “Hey, I did not sleep well, I was too nervous, know I am going to suck today”
Add some Tito’s Vodka to the Blood Orange San Pellegrono and I’m with you.
The sort that chooses a spot that looks good enough and surfs it without much looking around because time is limited. And wants other surfers in the lineup to stop talking about or thinking about where else could be good, sometimes myself included
bike to end of my street and paddle out guy.
D-Street sucks.
After the heavy rains I like to be on the first subway downtown.
…the sort that wait’s for all the working stiff dawn patrol neophytes to bolt off to their cubicles.
Anti-coffee?!? HAVE YOU NO DECENCY, SIR?
Smoke too much weed + good stereo = stay in the car
I’m a open ocean buoy – I know exactly what’s going on.
Hahaha
Wait for the right tide and then the wind gets into it. Time for a beer.
the one who curses that 190 degree south because there’s only two places for 60 miles in either direction that aren’t too walled to surf
Utah, get me two!
Or France
…The sort that if I see one closeout, I’m going to a “wind protected” spot
…the sort that thinks I know where I should be going, drive there, realize it was better out front of the neighborhood, get back home only to find that the wind/tide/swell now sucks and I missed it all.
… the sort that gets all hyped the night before and packs up all my gear/waxes boards, only to blow it off in the morning because the baby was up all night and I’ve only had 3 cups of coffee.
Pre-dawn fumble with the beloved, and then being morally obligated to stay for breakfast, as the conditions inexorably degrade.
lmao! if you put a ring on it you aint gotta stay for breakfast
Stay for breakfast? Your a fucking saint! No wonder she puts up with your bullshit.
That time when you know there are no waves at all and you tell your wife: Hey, you know what? I’ll stay with you today because you are more important to me than surfing.
… the sort who gets amped on the idea of going out at the biggest/best spot, only to talk myself out of actually surfing once I get there because it’s getting kind of late and I don’t feel like paddling.
Wasting time on Beach Grit as the tide builds and then drive home because it got too fat.