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Beach Grit

Quiz: Would the world be better if everyone surfed?

Derek Rielly

by Derek Rielly

Do you imagine a world where love of surf unites the world?

Earlier today, a tear plopped onto my keyboard. I was moved by the simple beauty of a friend’s post on Facebook. He had shared a movie called Women of Color As a Powerful Form of Resistance.

The three-minute short revealed an organisation called Brown Girl Surf  “that teaches girls of color to surf.”

It is an important film because it shows “other women of color that surf is not a white man’s playground” and “that the water is a safe space for women of color because the water is honest.”

The group’s leader says it’s “definitely not a good time to be a woman of color in America” which I presume to be a fork in the eye of America’s 45th president.

Anyway, the friend, a polite and nice little kid who lives in San Francisco, had wrapped the shared post with the message, “The world would be a better place if everyone surfed.”

Which is a fine thing to say.

When I was a child I, too, imagined a world where world leaders wore golden locks from all their surfing, where the Russian president would horse around with his American counterpart, joined together by their love of the ocean.

Of course, I soon became aware that surf did shit for a person’s emotional IQ, that altruism didn’t blossom on the ocean’s seabeds, feeding osmosis-like, into anyone sitting on a surfboard.

But I have a lousy personality. I’m the kind of guy who won’t talk to anybody unless I want something off you.

Therefore, I ask: would the world be a better place if everyone surfed? If the seas were filled with joyous wave dancers? Where colour, religion and so forth were left on the shoreline like your pretty new Leus towel?

An earthy paradise or living hell?

(Watch the colourful girl’s movie here.)