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The surf journalist (pictured) trying not to swear.
The surf journalist (pictured) trying not to swear. | Photo: Steve Sherman

Damn: Bad words not good for surf writing!

Also self-awareness is good for surf writing!

Yesterday late I was forwarded one of Kelly Slater’s Instagram stories wherein he is doing the “PETA Challenge” and becoming a vegan. I giggled all night thinking about the title for this morning’s offering. Either Shocking: Kelly Slater NOT already vegan! Or maybe Revealed: Kelly Slater once ate meat! This morning, however, I realized I had posted the same basic story underneath a dull headline and only just days ago.

Depression washed over me and stayed over me until I stumbled upon How to become a surf writer on the Portuguese website Surfer Today. It was a longer article completely lacking in annoying flourishes, just laying down the facts. Here is a snippet.

Surfing is a highly visual sport. And because it relies on an enigmatic symbiosis between human and nature, you rarely need words to describe what you see – a perfect solitary wave, a giant mountain of rolling water, a freak backwash wave exploding near the shore break. And on top of that, a man or woman riding it for the simple, yet addictive pleasure of doing so.

But precisely because it gets so visually attractive, surfing weaved its own web of connections. From its historical background and surfboard building techniques to its musical, cultural, scientific, and sociological diversities, surfing became the subject of a wide range of analysis.

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Therefore, writing about surfing is a natural process, and something it should and will be done as long as there are waves to be ridden.

Oh how my life path felt validated if even only a moment and I hurried to where it promised me further guidance.

If your goal is to become a well-respected surf journalist, there are a few things you should know before submitting your work to potential publishers or employers. One of the first things you should take into consideration is that you need to make choices.

1. Are you someone who prefers quality over quantity or the other way around?

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2. Build a surf media chart

3. Build personal awareness

4. Adopt a no-swearing policy

Fuck.

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I continued reading.

While it can sound cool to younger audiences in some circumstances, bad and offensive language will immediately narrow down your chances of attracting mature readers and employers.

Shit. Well, there goes that moment of validation. I’m officially back to where I started with not a mature reader or employer on the horizon. Tomorrow morning, though, I debate Stab’s Ashton Goggans on air.

That will be fun.

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East of the 5

Chas sick new banner ad. Can we get a CokeNife cocaine delivery hookup? Gracias.

Bleach'd Git

You slept with Brian Cox? Not sure if I’d put his brains to much use, but I could certainly do with those luscious locks he’s sporting at 49.

Dogsnuts

So I can write fucking shit but I can’t write fucking shit?

?uzzled

What happens if you read it when sitting on the couch? Would there be a special surprise?

Dooma

DAY 3: BEACHGRIT STILL SILENT! “Kelly Slater being vegan more important than actual Journalism and the Dusty Pane accident”

J H

Apparently Chas’ Coconut Wireless receiver done broked.

channelbottom

Is that why you didn’t even respond to my Xmas email with a bit of anti-depressive copy, Chas?
Too many sweary words in it?

Otto

Volcanic activity is a natural process. Surf journalism is produced by the intent, ego and whimsical absurdity of human beings.

Here’s a surf media chart: https://uploads.disquscdn.c…

Abscessed Llama

Which number is the healthiest?

Bleach'd Git

Are we still talking surf media?
If not, aim for number 4.
Is Beach Grit a number 6?

James Bickerton

Type 4 and 5 will probably be best for the over 50s . Smooth and soft and easy to pass . Aaaaaaah

Lemon Next to the Pie

This is a Bristol Surf media chart. Is that near Plymouth?

Otto

Nah! That shit is off the chart.

LongRichard

Question for Chas. Do you think Stabmag will start posting stories questioning why Chas never posted a story on Dusty Paynes horrible wipe-out at Backdoor…..surely the second biggest story in surfing this year????

Bleach'd Git

That would be wonderful.

Chas Smith

I’ll tell you right now… because I generally make fun of Dusty Payne (red hair, mormon dad) and so it would have been inappropriate for me to weigh in on this serious matter and I am very glad he is ok. Derek Rielly apparently chose not to cover. We’re an open book!

Eddie Haiku

Some poor bastard died at Rocky Point on the same morning our Ginger Ninja went down at Backdoor. Four foot of swell. Hawaii is a cunt of a place.

Chas Smith

Amen to that.

Mapski

“It is in the Pacific. It is part of United States that is an Island that is right here.”

Eddie Haiku

I’m guessing either Donald Trump or Kelly Slater said that…

Mapski

Dan Quayle.

Eddie Haiku

Classic.

Otto

His name is Glen Jeans.

throwing disqus

I’m actually glad you didn’t. Stab did a great job of milking every ounce of traffic it could out of Dustys, well.. payne…
It was pretty pathetic kinda like that joke.

LongRichard

Great to see such solid ethics! It’s been a bitch of a time for serious wipeouts — Nazare guy getting worked, Dusty’s bad wipe out, Chas at the wave pool….

Chas Smith

You are a tired old troll playing that one note.

PacificNorthPest

As a fellow 6’3″ middle-age man, can I say I’m both super jealous and somewhat disturbed by how thin Chas is? On the one hand I’d love to be that fashionably, slip-through-a-straw skinny. As long as you don’t talk too much everyone must assume you’re the coolest guy in the bar. On the other, when I see that the first number on the scale isn’t a 2, the other apes start directing whithering gazes my way much more frequently. I’m used to the vast majority of manhood opting for softer targets.

Is there some way to be knocked-over-by-a -leaf-blower thin and not get ranked on by insecure Alpha wannabes? If so, can it be done if one also eats Ben and Jerry’s like a half-drunk chubby sorority girl whose sisters just asked her to stay away from the Teke mixer?

bitter guy

see Project: JoelJitsu

PacificNorthPest

Yes this is it, thanks! I’m so afraid of Joel Tudor and haven’t even ever seen him in person. But so much work! I’m thinking bulimia and open carry might be way easier …

longtom

Are you a fatty?

PacificNorthPest

depends on how friendly the lighting is? The coach at my exercise class says I’m “jacked” but I think he mostly just wants the checks to keep coming.

longtom

I thought portugese were smart, this is caca.

Jen See

what the actual fuck is a surf media chart. also personal awareness is totally overrated. totally.

Lemon Next to the Pie

Possibilities.
A) A rigorous scanning of the daily musings of as many surf journalismers, categorised in order to define the most popular/considered the most important stories of the day/week/month.

B) A list of media that mention surfing on any given day.

C) Surf media organised in ratings order.

D) Something proven to be less useful than parachute leashes.

Self awareness is ok, if it means you are aware of how much wasted thought went into this reply. 🍻

Jen See

whoa this seems really organized? i’m not sure i’m this organized like ever.

Return of the Samsung Board

Being organised requires personal awareness? At least knowing you are

NEGATRON

Shall we list some Questions for Ashton?

Yes, we shall…

I have suffered some mild paranoia as the only BeachGrit staffer that was not approached for a STAB job. I fit the team player, company man STAB ethos so why not me Ashton?

Next…

Chazz Michael Michaels

2. What’s with the cunty little hats?

Chas Smith

Ooooh this deserves a whole post!

NEGATRON

Careful Chas you may hit Dereks 10 STAB stories in one week limit…

Chas Smith

I’m a man on a mission! A man reborn!

Otto

Chason Rebourne

Chazz Michael Michaels

3. Which mediocre Southern European semi pro surfer are you actually pumping?

Lemon Next to the Pie

4. How low can badvertorial go?

Bleach'd Git

I think CERN is investigating….

Otto

CERN?
Commentariot for the Ethical Regard of NEGATRON?

Bleach'd Git

I was thinking more along the lines of dark matter.

Perhaps Commentariot for the Earning of Royalties for Negatron?

Otto

Yes. That’s way better. Makes it just as futile as PETA.

Lemon Next to the Pie

People Eating Tasty Animals.

Otto

I like to eat vegan animals and animal eating animals.

Lemon Next to the Pie

It’s ok, this steak came from a vegetarian cow.

Jimmy the Saint

Surely it can all be settled by an arm wrestle!

Jimmy the Saint

Can we get JP Currie to give us some pointers on becoming an inertia writer?

NEGATRON

Did you know anyone can be an Inertia Writer? I know, hard to believe! It’s very inclusive unlike the Derek & Chas show here.

Chazz Michael Michaels

You’re a terrible troll. All the wit of a soggy wet glove.

Eddie Haiku

He’s coming for ya!

Jimmy the Saint

Oh how you disappoint me…

Karl Von Fanningstadt

I’m most interested in point number two: “Build a surf media chart.” OK, here goes…
https://uploads.disquscdn.c…

Eddie Haiku

Oh, I was wondering why God created the sheep! This is fucking wonderful news.

Brutus

I think that’s a Kiwi graph!

J H

The Welsh thank God every day.

Craven Morehead

A picture tells a thousand words

Abscessed Llama

Shouldn’t their be a third caboose? Make it a crazy looking baboon pounding surf media for dear life “Beach Grit”

regularguy

Guess I’m out too cause after building personal awareness I realized that I’m a huge fucking piece of shit, and no other words would work.

cpswimmer

fuck


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