The game of interviews ain’t as easy as
y’think. Human behaviour being as it is, we genuflect
towards the famous, we talk over answers and we try to impress the
mark with our own genius, thoroughly forgetting the purpose of the
interview – to extract information.
I remember, once, an entire interview with Mick Fanning became a
treatise on life, love and big-wave surfing by a prominent surf
photographer employed to shoot portraits, Fanning reduced to a bit
player in the proceedings.
Mark Occhilupo, whom, as a teenager was as remarkable a surfer
as the young Kelly Slater, has become, accidentally or by design, a
formidable interviewer. In this forty-three minute podcast/video
hybrid Occy peels back layers of Christian Fletcher with a goofy
style that belies a sharp mind and an ability to ask excellent
follow-up questions.
Occy asks Christian about his famous contest win in 1989 at
Lowers that polarised surfing to such an extent members of the top
16 co-signed a letter to the various surfing magazines asking for
photos of Christian not be run.
“Got talked into buying a house by my parents. Ended up with a
wife, a kid, a house – all the responsibilities of a fifty-year-old
man at twenty one and she didn’t cook. She didn’t even cook a bowl
of cereal, ok, didn’t clean, didn’t work. It was a rough one so
finally ended up with a nervous breakdown.”
You won $30,000, says Occ.
“31725,” corrects Christian.
“What happened to the money,” says Occy, a beautiful follow
up.
“Got talked into buying a house by my parents. Ended up with a
wife, a kid, a house – all the responsibilities of a fifty-year-old
man at twenty one and she didn’t cook. She didn’t even cook a bowl
of cereal, ok, didn’t clean, didn’t work. It was a rough one so
finally ended up with a nervous breakdown.”
Can you go further with that?
“Sure! I would’ve ended up dying.”
You’ve been sober a long time now.
“Wouldn’t say sober. I’ll do whatever I want, whenever I want! I
just choose not to do it too often.”
Making the right choices, says Occ.
The interview is priceless. Watch here.
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Listen: The WSL’s kingmaker reveals
all!
By Chas Smith
"I don’t think Kelly will ever win another world
title."
Hope Hicks is gone but dry your eyes because we
have Dave Prodan and we always will. The World Surf League’s senior
vice-president of global identity predates the WSL by a good five
years. He was there, when professional surfing was called the
Association of Surfing Professionals. He will be here when
professional surfing is called the Indoor Surfing Club. Dave Prodan
is eternal.
I first met the man in Europe, I do believe, in the early 2000s.
He was then CEO Brodie Carr’s right hand and executed his duties
with a wry sense of remove. Nothing but nothing could ruffle Dave
Prodan’s feathers. Nothing but nothing can still. He is able to
walk the very fine line between corporate and core interests
somehow deciphering one to the other. I don’t know that he has ever
said or written a wrong word and would imagine that future heads of
state will someday look at his body of work, call and say, “Dave
Prodan? My name is Oprah Winfrey, I am President of the United
States and I’ve been following your career. What would you say to
coming to work with me in the White House as communications
director?”
“I’m truly honored…” Dave Prodan will respond “…but the Indoor
Surfing Club has just released its tour schedule, including Dubai
and Midland, Texas. It will be an important year and I must sally
forth.”
He is honorable yet he just sat down with provocateur David Lee
Scales for a podcast. What WSL secrets slipped out? Well there’s
this…
We do not have a permit for Pipe in 2019. The mayor has
acknowledged that the permitting process is flawed. They’re tearing
up the permitting rules and rewriting them from scratch. It’s my
understanding the Da Hui Backdoor Shootout did not receive their
2019 permit either. Hopefully we end up with Pipe back on the
schedule in 2020.
Is true? Da Hui got slapped by bureaucracy? Son of a bitch.
Come listen for more!
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Just in: Mavericks cancelled for the
year!
By Chas Smith
A speed bump!
The feel good storyline of the year hit a
massive speed bump today as it hurtled toward a cinematic
conclusion. Today is the final day of the Big Wave Tour Mavericks
Invitational presented by Hungry-Man Fillin’ Philly Cheesteaks and
Slut Sity Adult Entertainment.
The event did not run the year’s promised surf failed to
materialize rendering the season un-surfed.
As reported by the Bay Area’s local NBC affiliate:
Wednesday marks the final day that the competition window
for the Mavericks Challenge contest is open, but unfortunately for
surfers, Mother Nature is not and has not been cooperating this
season.
“Unfortunately, an appropriate swell didn’t materialize in
the window because…, but we’re excited to see it come to life next
season,” Dave Prodan, World Surf League’s Senior Vice President of
Global Brand Identity, said in a statement.
As NBC Bay Area has been reporting, the WSL bought the
rights to the surf contest after the previous organizers declared
bankruptcy.
And that was the feel good storyline of the year. The WSL
wresting control of the iconic event from the grubby hands of diet
product entrepreneur Griffin Guess. The event running in perfect
conditions. Local legend Shawn Dollar winning and donating his
proceeds a nearby animal shelter just in time to stave off the evil
bank manager.
Griffin Guess was going to be played by Christopher Lee.
Shawn Dollar = Chris Pratt
Dave Prodan = Elijah Wood
The kindhearted animal shelter owner = Jennifer Aniston
The evil bank manager = Kevin Bacon
Surf Dawgs would have been lauded for its touching
depiction of big wave surfing and socially conscious message about
spaying and neutering pets.
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Watch: Yago Dora in “I Have An Itch!”
By Derek Rielly
Captivating short film about Brazilian WCT
rookie…
Yago Dora. Great name. Beautiful stance. Stands
way back on tail. Moves north when he wants to go up.
The almost twenty-two-old Brazilian WCT rookie, who is the son
of former pro Leandro Dora and who grew up in gorgeous
Florianópolis (lowest homicide rate in all of Brazil), will bring,
I think, a romanticism to the tour, which is the freesurfer turned
contest slayer.
Do you remember, last year, when Yago beat Mick Fanning,
Gabriel Medina and John John Florence on the way to the semis of
the Oi Rio Pro?
In the excellent short, below, we learn that Yago started
surfing relatively late, eleven, that he has an itch to surf
Teahupoo better than anyone has a right to expect, and he is
experiencing a terrific ongoing joy at joining the WCT, for the
order it brings to his chaotic world.
Switch on the sub-titles if your Portuguese is a little
shaky.
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Board review: “I’m in love with Asian
Transsexual!”
By Longtom
A board review that hits Rousseau, Voltaire,
Dostoevky and gorgeous women who used to be men!
Nothing but nothing marks a gal as reactionary,
out of date and surplus to requirements as resistance to our modern
gender fluid world. At least in the west. In the east it is still
considered a noble virtue.
So, what to do, if you’re a hetero-normative piece of shit like
me and feel a desire to “experiment”, to expand your horizons in a
sublimated completely psycho-sexual way?
I have a solution and it’s called an asymmetrical surfboard.
This one I have in my possession is Asian made, designed by a
delightfully fruity Japanese man named Cuts under the Insane label,
hereafter known as the Insano. It came from the Surfboard
Agency in Byron Bay, because made for a goofy, and I,
goofy. They needed a goofy to ride and report.
Let us first acknowledge and bow deeply to the Asian elephant in
the room. I do not own any Asian-made surfboards, apart from the
Insano. Any prick with five minutes to spare will find acres of
ranting from L. Tom on the issue and I now have to admit my
position has become more nuanced.
No money exchanged.
The Insano is EPS core, biaxial epoxy lam, not my usual choice
of materials for reasons to be discussed. It’s a wide-outline, flat
fish with neutral rails and a shorter rail line on the toe-side
edge and two channels running through the bottom from the fins.
Let us first acknowledge and bow deeply to the Asian elephant in
the room. I do not own any Asian-made surfboards, apart from the
Insano. Any prick with five minutes to spare will find acres of
ranting from L. Tom on the issue and I now have to admit my
position has become more nuanced. I have seen many local
manufacturers I respect experiment in asian board building. I am
happy to see Cuts get a cut of the action, and others, growing
older, like Dick Van Straalen find a passive income in retirement
from licensing his designs.
Yet I can’t quite get behind the D. Rielly position that a
brother is a brother is a brother. That’s fine sentiment but not
how most people operate, most of the time. According to Indian
essayist Pankaj Mishra, author of Age of Anger, much of
the humiliation and anger felt by peeps across the world
(especially sanders/glassers/shapers) can be sheeted to a sense
that their lives are being radically disrupted by cosmopolitan,
transnational elites.
People feel solidarity with the local community, not the
globalised elite or even the asian workers making the sleds,
computers, clothes etc etc.
Kenchy (glasser/sander), Brown-eye (glasser), Gypo
(shaper/sander), Jules (sander) mean more to me than the brothers
in Thailand. Human nature. But the guys who own Surf Agency are
local surfers, they got families to feed, bills to pay, and as
Snoop Dog says in Coach Snoop “Man do what he gotta do to take care
of his motherfucking family”.
My moral certainty is shattered ladies and gentlemen of the
jury, stuck between Voltaire’s cosmopolitanism and Rousseau’s
communitarianism.
It took a while for the Insano to get out the back of the Camry.
For shame. And weirdness. I eventually got it finned up with an MR
twin on one side from Alkali fins Ballina and a quad set on the
other, also hand foiled fibreglass made in Ballina. I couldn’t get
a take on what an asymmetrical set-up was supposed to accomplish
and so the board languished.
What happened next was a surprise. I’m a terrible surf snob. I
cross the street to avoid shit surf and I know shit surf.
Got my chops growing up on Bribie Island, a South Pacific backwater
that makes Florida look like South Sumatra. In my world view a
working gal with a family to raise monkey humping a high volume
groveller in slop counts as a crime against humanity. To make a
simple equation: Riding shit surf = taking the piss.
I ain’t no leave passer or board hider but after a couple
weeks on the Insano Daddio Longtom started getting creative with
little “chores” that had to be done in Ballina instead of making an
honest living. Tiny little monsters stirred in his loins at the
sight of weak 2footers. After work surfs in C and D grade summer
Point surf started stretching into dusk and Pappy’s home life
started to suffer.
The grass grew high around the house, so high we lost our only
son in it. Pappys Jade stalk and Mammy’s sacred valley grew tangled
and overgrown with neglect. Pappy was spending too much time with
an asian asymmetrical and not enough on Mammy’s ski jump boobies
and derriere you can crack a flea on.
The Insano was champagne and Ritalin*. Loose, unpredictable,
slippery, light headed, unreliable, hyper-reactive. Dangerous fun.
Like teenage sex. Experimentation for the gal with a family to go
home to.
Why so? Because the experience was intoxicating.
With a Ghost and the
Insano in the Camry I had the high and the low end on lockdown. The
Ghost was a buzz from a couple of Sierra Nevadas, maybe a brace of
Bush Chooks necked post-surf in the desert lefts. The Insano was
champagne and Ritalin*. Loose, unpredictable, slippery, light
headed, unreliable, hyper-reactive. Dangerous fun. Like teenage
sex. Experimentation for the gal with a family to go home to.
Materials that once felt like a liability in good surf now felt
like a revelation.
There is benefit to a certain species of human being in pursuing
an asymmetric design path. As Dostoevky’s Underground Man in Notes
from the Underground was paralysed by ennui and
inactivity I see a Hypothetical Man of Means suffering under the
weight of mortgage stress, marital and familial responsibility and
boredom. And when I say Man I mean Woman and Man and every sexual
flavour in between. Life grinds one down. Existence is an emptiness
we must populate with meaning as best we can and if riding an
asymmetric Asian-made fish in shit surf helps you get through the
night then I say more power to your arm babe.
Existence is an emptiness we must populate with meaning as best
we can and if riding an asymmetric Asian-made fish in shit surf
helps you get through the night then I say more power to your arm
babe.
Perfect waves are hard to come by and even harder to appreciate
on their own terms. The wave-tub experiences of BeachGrit
principals and surf hacks at Lemoore have taught us that. So I say,
unless your name is Ryan Burch or Bryce Young, experimenting with
asymmetricals in good waves is too risky. Choose a more reliable
dance partner.
But if one turn and a close-out reo is your daily bread and
you’re bored with white bread missionary attempts to couple with
it, I implore you to loosen up the program. Does our Man of Means
need an asymmetric fish? Only in the way a fish needs a
bicycle, but what’s need got do with surfing? If this one wasn’t a
goofy set-up I would jump the morning Jetstar to Sydney and
personally hand this over to D. Rielly in exchange for a smashed
avo and ristretto at the Trio Cafe.
The other great unexploited ecological niche for a design such
as the Insano is as a low end travel board. We approach our OS surf
trips with such high expectations – quivering up with sleek designs
to ride dream waves – but the truth is underpowered reef breaks and
thin-lipped tradewind swells are just as likely. Nothing is more
dispiriting to the soul of our Hypothetical Man of Means than
paying top dollar to jockey for position at an underpowered
Maldivian reef with a posse of Israelis fresh out of the military.
That’s exactly the time when you need fruitiness and
unreliable handling in a surfboard. Sri Lanka, Maldives, PNG, Costa
Rica, Europe, maybe even the motherfucking Mentawais if the
forecast is flaccid. All could be rescued from being BS snorkelling
trips by a gender fluid little small wave toy.
The Underground Man’s story went tits up, mired in shame,
humiliation and self disgust: a precursor to the fate of the
internet commenter.
Our story has a more anti-depressive ending.
With TC Gita approaching L.Tom put the Asian cue in the rack
,stopped at the servo and got flowers, cut the grass and once more
Pappy’s jade stalk and Mammy’s sacred valley united and the ghetto
cow paddocks of Lennox Head reverberated with moans of pleasure all
fucking night long.**
To quote the Underground Man, “it seems that we may stop
here”.
*Ritalin is Methylphenidate, an amphetamine analogue prescribed
to kids with ADHD. It’s a helluva performance and cognitive
enhancing stimulant and tremendous fun mixed with booze.
** PG recommended because drugs are stupid and parental sex is
gross.v
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Jon Pyzel and Matt Biolos by
@theneedforshutterspeed/Step Bros