"This is the first Chas Smith book I’ve read but I already know it’s by far the best."
"I've never understood how surf journalism has always identified with the interests of the few (subjects) against the many (readers). That's always seemed ass about to me."
Justice served.
It's a dream outside lane run for Morgs at a dream location. The draw could not be more favourable for him.
Bureaucracy does not produce champions. Money does not fix the problem. Money is the problem.
And, honest question, is anyone in this event surfing as good as AI in 2006? Apart from Carissa in her division.
Beautiful! Brilliant. Why not?
He crumbled at Surf Ranch, never seen it before. He crumbled at the Olympics. He looks off, flat. There's some static in the head throwing conflicting signals at the musculo-skeletal system.
One vital question that hasn’t been dealt which needs to be sorted out pronto by us, is: what the fook does an Olympic Gold Medal in surfing mean?
The no-names added a frisson of David v Goliath excitement, largely illusory, but that could mean more at Teahupoo in three years time.
Not what the Duke had in mind when he envisioned the Sport of Kings as an Olympic sport.
"Could surfing in the Olympics produce a Shawn White or a Torah Bright, and who could that be?"
The major obstacle to the film's success, however, is reality itself.
"Surf Ranch does not seem to 'spark joy' amongst the world's best. They look exhausted and depressed after a ride…"
Toledo now in the box seat at number three.
Why cover pro surfing at all is a question any surf journalist has to grapple seriously with during Surf Ranch.
