The Zeke Lau and John John Florence affair is
old news now, already picked over by the best in the game. In case
you were camping in the woods and missed, Zeke Lau surfed against
John John Florence in an early round heat at Bells and paddled very
aggressively, throwing John John off his game and winning.
Commentary was instant and harshly against Zeke. “Fuck that guy…”
“rude” “no place for that in surfing…” etc.
An amateur sociologist could have observed before easily
declaring, “Well, surfers are racist. Any time a person of brown
skin (Zeke, Brazilians) pushes back the establishment (blonde,
blue) reacts by reminding the offender he isn’t altogether
welcome.” But surfers are too vacuous to be racist. So what? Why
the near unanimous derision of Zeke Lau?
For answers we must travel back to Torquay where ancient grudge
breaks to new mutiny. And what is this ancient grudge? Jocks vs.
surfers of course! Nearly every comment I’ve read this week mirror
this one here
from Storm Boy. “Zeke is the worst kind of bully, an over-swole
knucklehead jock without the guts to intimidate off his own back,
instead paying a grown man to tell him who is weak enough to push
(paddle) over.”
Over-swole knucklehead jock.
Jocks vs. surfers, fighting in the Garden of Eden, fighting in
olde Egypt, fighting during the Industrial Revolution and fighting
at Bells. Where did the enmity first begin? Who knows but it is
certainly eternal. The jock with his organization and team muscle
head. The surfer with his uniqueness and individuality and lack of
roolz.
All fine and good but I am still confused. The viciousness
directed toward Zeke Lau for surfing like a jock, for being a jock,
seemed… uninformed. Hasn’t the World Surf League been pushing and
pushing and pushing “surfing” into “sport” since its most recent
remake? Don’t more and more and more professional surfers see
themselves as “athletes?”
All Zeke did was complete the circle and then you drew and
quartered him.
So which do you want? Is professional surfing a sport or is it a
gentleman’s game?
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Bells: “Italo maroons Fanning in front of
adoring fans!”
By Longtom
The fairytale ends. Justice served.
Hasn’t the little petri dish of pro surf fandom been
absolutely fizzing with outrage over the Zeke/John John paddle
battle? What a kerfuffle! I think we should discuss
(briefly), before we run a rope through the eyes of a compelling
finals day and string it up the flagpole. Seeing as it is likely to
be the only thing we remember from Bells 2018 once the St Mick hype
slowly dies down.
Rolling the videotape it was John John who made the move to
paddle to the inside of Zeke, and Zeke who blocked. John then let a
set wave go through unridden before Zeke took the next. It was a
display of aggressive intent but it hardly impeded Florence from
riding a wave. What it clearly did was rattle John John to such an
extent that he fell on every wave.
It revealed a curious fragility, did it not?
Even though John has created this perfect little fairy tale
world with World Titles and yachts cruising the outer islands and
supportive golden-skinned friends and fresh veggies grown in the
backyard and a friendly father figure of a coach, even given all
that there is a tremendous brittleness in the face of unbridled
aggression.
Sometime during the heat my wife came in and asked, “Why are you
blue?”
I looked up and realised I’d stopped breathing and was in fact
being asphyxiated by the plumes of mawkish sentimentality which had
filled up the room. It was like trying to breath through Black
Francis’ “ten million pounds of sludge from New York and New
Jersey”. And now Fanning was against Pat Gudauskas in the semi’s at
Bells! He’d barely surfed a decent wave at more than half
throttle!
It rings a bell. We remember how Kelly crumbled in the face of
aggression from Andy Irons. What a beautiful psychological
conundrum to observe in the Champ as he rolls into Margarets. Where
to go? Fight fire with fire ? But he doesn’t have any of the
psy-ops warfare that Kelly had and has. Question: What does a coach
actually do?
QuarterFinal one between Gudang and Michel Bourez kicked off in
clean four-to-six-foot Bells Bowl under a funereal gloom. Even
though Joe Turpel called it “already a classic” it was obvious it
was another one of those days where there was something in the
water. Bourez was awful and Pat G, the Hurdy Gurdy man, all limbs
flailing and hyped up energy spaz pumping wildly across the Bells
Bowl was only marginally better. What happened to understated
California style? It made my eyes hurt to watch it. Pat made the
semis with a six and five but he did remind me I still had a Gudang
Guram left over in the shed so I went and smoked it and got set for
the avalanche of sentiment to come for the Owen/Fanning
QF.
Fanning was Fanning Lite and Owen was bad. Bafflingly,
unbelievably bad. I couldn’t imagine anything surfing worse than a
new born Giraffe with Foetal Alcohol Syndrome… thought that
would safely be the nadir of the contest as far as needing a
metaphor for bad surfing went. Maybe Owen was channeling the
three-legged twin brother of the crippled giraffe? He was tepid and
hesitant and uncoordinated and incredibly unsavvy. Four minutes to
go and he gifted Mick a lovely inside runner that Mick dutifully
turned into a score. If it wasn’t for Owen’s impeccable integrity
an objective observer would be inclined to be asking some very,
very awkward questions about Owen Wright’s performance.
Sometime during the heat my wife came in and asked, “Why are you
blue?”
I looked up and realised I’d stopped breathing and was in fact
being asphyxiated by the plumes of mawkish sentimentality which had
filled up the room. It was like trying to breath through Black
Francis’ “ten million pounds of sludge from New York and New
Jersey”. And now Fanning was against Pat Gudauskas in the semi’s at
Bells! He’d barely surfed a decent wave at more than half
throttle!
Italo dropped the hammer on Zeke Lau, rendering tactics
irrelevant and in demonstrating what pro surfing could be and
should be in 2018 effectively passed brutal judgement on his peers
and the CT so far this year. His damning indictment left the charge
of mediocrity stamped on the foreheads of a majority of the Top 34.
There’s been a continuing error parroted by surfers and
commentators alike that the “criteria has changed” this year. The
criteria is exactly the same. Judges have decreed that the levels
of performance with respect to the criteria have to be much, much
higher to get a good score. Effectively they have changed the
answer to the question: “What is good surfing?” It is no longer the
conservative muck dished up for far too much of the last 5
years.
In the Biological sciences a predator is known to identify it’s
prey via a mental representation known as a search image. To
determine the answer to the question, what is good surfing, judges
had to develop their own search image; their own template made
flesh. That template has now been given a name (as it was for Kelly
Slater, and Dane Reynolds and Mick Fanning) and it is Italo Ferreira and
that makes me so hap. So so hap.
Medina waited a lifetime to kick off in the final QF against
Fred Morais. Just when it looked like he too had quaffed the
negative Kool-Aid that was starting to get a bad whiff about it he
unleashed a monster combo of perfect backside turns and then backed
it up. My god, I thought, Medina now has the best and most perfect
flow on Tour. His high volume boards require exactly zero spaz
pumping and intra-turn corrections. Can you Medina haters come to
terms with the truth of that?
The semis went as expected. Fanning easily accounted for Gudang
with his best surfing of the event. It was close to vintage,
classic Fanning. The torque, the wraps, the quasimodo pose claims
after banging shut the end section. It was all there. The fairytale
ending was looming.
Italo was just too good for Medina, and did you know Medina has
never bested him man on man? Me neither.
Before we hit the Final I received an email detailing a new
Sophie G collab with Air Asia (terrific airline, very cute
hostesses and stewards) whereby Air Asia was going to deliver a
prize for the biggest air every comp on the Australian leg. Bet you
can’t guess who won at Snapper. Ready? Sally Fitzgibbon. True! Any
ideas who won at Bells? I cannot recall a single made air. Maybe
that tail-free huck from Griff.
The Final was very good viewing live. I thought that. Millions
of Victorians and other Australians also packed the beach and
thought so too. Can we assume the 3600 watching on Facebook Live
also enjoyed? I say yes.
Italo looked wobbly as the onshore wind put gurgle through the
lineup but carried a slender lead into the mid way point of the
heat. Fanning caught the second wave of a set and turned on the
torque, delivering emotional candy to a crowd hungry for the
fairytale finish. He followed up with another scoring ride and took
the lead. The final seven minutes were tense, my heart was
thudding, 100 beats per minute as Italo stroked into a set. He went
big, then bigger and bigger before falling as the high tide back
wash intersected his closing move. It was enough for a lead
change.
Italo struck again with the best wave of the Final and two
minutes to go found Fanning, St Mick, marooned in front of an ocean
of adoring fans staring at an unyielding southern Ocean needing a
mid-range seven.
A minute and change to go and a set approached, which drove the
crowd into a screaming, whistling frenzy. The chimera of a wave
dissolved into nothingness as Fanning paddled into it and the hopes
and dreams of all save a few traitorous surf journalists went with
it.
The fairytale had ended, justice had been served. Italo gave
Fanning a long, long embrace. He hugged him and didn’t let go and
for the first time this event I found myself with a lump in the
throat.
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Rumour: Rip Curl Sold to Sydney
Family!
By Derek Rielly
Fanning retires and so, maybe, do Rip Curl
founders!
Are you one of the 2,800 Facebook fans currently
watching the Rip Curl Pro live from Bells
Beach?
If so, the rumour that Rip Curl has just sold to an
as-yet-unnamed Sydney family might be of at least vague interest.
Rip Curl, if it needs to be said, is the wetsuit and clothing
company created in 1969 by the shaper Doug ‘Claw’ Warbrick, science
teacher Brian Singer and another pal Alan Green, who would leave a
year later to start Quiksilver thereby giving Brian and Claw an
equal split of the biz.
Earlier this century, Rip Curl would flirt with turning the
company public, hiring various, what do yo wanna call ‘em
“experts”, but flinched as it watched the catastrophic trajectories
of Billabong and Quiksilver. It ain’t no secret that Brian
and Claw were open to sell privately for a number just shy shy
of half-a-billion dollars.
Six years ago, Rip Curl hired Bank of America Merrill Lynch
to look into a sale of the biz, either a piece or all of it. Nobody
bit at that price, a bullish ten times earnings.
And last year, as reported by the Australian Financial
Review, the pair of rich-listers “appointed local independent
adviser Gresham and US-based boutique RW Baird to run a sale
process…While Rip Curl has fared much better than its larger rivals
by sticking to its surfing roots, ASIC accounts show Rip Curl has
not been completely immune to the choppy conditions that
contributed to the near demise of Billabong and Quiksilver.
“Rip Curl’s earnings before interest, tax, depreciation and
amortisation fell 30 per cent to $35.5 million in 2016, the last
year for which accounts are available, despite a 7 per cent rise in
sales to $476.5 million. This followed flat earnings in 2015 and a
35 per cent increase in EBITDA in 2014… Nevertheless, Rip Curl
is doing better than Billabong, which earned $51 million from
continuing operations in 2017 on sales of $1 billion.”
But yesterday… yesterday… according to a
BeachGrit source, one of the founders offhandedly
mentioned to a member of the public that Rip Curl had just been
sold “to a Sydney family.”
As of 2013, Brian and Claw, both well into their seventies,
still retained seventy-two percent of the biz, which they leave in
great shape. Lean, profitable and with a fine roster of
surfers.
More as it comes.
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Tech: WSL takes you on a virtual surf
trip!
By Chas Smith
First wave tanks now this!
The World Surf League alongside partner Jeep
are pleased to announce the release of a brand new virtual reality
project today called Jeep Sessions: A Journey in 360. Skimming
quickly through, it appears the participant (player?) once fitted
with an immersive VR device, chooses to either join Jordy Smith or
Malia Manuel to… wait. I’m sorry. I’m not very good at summarizing
press releases.
Here, read some select passages real quick and then we’ll
discuss.
Jeep® Sessions: A Surfing Journey in 360° follows WSL
Championship Tour surfers Jordy Smith and Malia Manuel as each
embarks on a Jeep brand adventure to find the best waves. The
project can be viewed in both a 360° video and an interactive VR
experience. The VR application enables users to select their
journey through “gaze-based interactions,” where the user’s eyes
become the controller within the 360° visuals.
“Our project goal was to push the boundaries of VR
technology to show what a surf trip feels like from the
first-person perspective,” said Steele, Rapid VR co-director. “I’m
excited to share this. It’s pretty incredible knowing my mom can
now experience riding a 20-foot wave.”
Fans have the option to choose to explore in Smith’s all-new
2018 Jeep Wrangler or Manuel’s Jeep Renegade. Filmed on the island
of Oahu, both the Jeep Wrangler and Renegade demonstrated the Jeep
brand’s legendary 4×4 capability and stylish design in an off-road
adventure through forest terrain and beautiful beaches.
“I love that everyone can go on whichever adventure they
want in this VR experience,” said Manuel. “It’s a win-win for the
viewer visually whether they go with me in the Jeep Renegade, or
Jordy in the Jeep Wrangler, as we go off-roading to explore the
beautiful scenery in Hawaii and find these amazing waves to share
with the world.”
Within the app experience, viewers also have several points
of choice presented by Sunny Garcia, Hawaiian surfing royalty who
has scoured every inch of the island, which affect the narrative
and result in different endings, including an option where all the
featured surfers share waves together.
Mmmm. I have a few questions.
What if you stare at Jordy Smith’s nipples the entire time vis a
vis the “gaze-based interaction?” Is this allowed?
Would you like for your mom to experience riding a 20-foot
wave?
Exploring the island of Oahu with Jordy in his Jeep Wrangler can
you go anywhere? Like, Ewa Beach? Can you try to buy ice? Do locals
chase you?
Did Malia Manuel really say, It’s a win-win for the
viewer visually whether they go with me in the Jeep Renegade, or
Jordy in the Jeep Wrangler, as we go off-roading to explore the
beautiful scenery in Hawaii and find these amazing waves to share
with the world.” Or was that written in the press office
afterwards?
The journey is narrated by Joe Turpel and you can/should watch
while thinking about my questions and coming up with some of your
own.
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Hiring: Work at Surf Ranch!
By Derek Rielly
Are you action oriented? Do you like watching rich
people fall on waves?
Last November, the World Surf League gifted me and
Charlie, along with several others, a showpiece day at
Surf Ranch in Lemoore, a city in Kings County, California.
What was notable, apart from the size of the joint, the tasteful
furnishings, pavilion-style buildings and Sal’s consumption of
protein bars, was the general glow among the workers – the
lifeguards, the administrative staff and so forth; the sort of
ambience that only comes when the culture you work within is kind
and fair.
The one drawback, of course, is the staff don’t actually get to
ride the wavepool so much, which must make them want to tug chunks
of hair out.
I have all the required skills apart from “a thorough
understanding of office management practices including Accounting
and Human Resources. Daily duties will include assisting with
administrative business tasks such as onboarding, timecard
management, payroll, work rule enforcement, account coding,
financial reporting, purchase order management, and budgeting.”
Of the “personal attributes” required, “Integrity and honesty,
exceptional attention to detail, masterful organizational skills,
an enthusiasm for coaching, teaching, and the development of people
and action-oriented — enjoys working hard and looks for challenges”
I like to think of myself as “action-oriented.”
If I was asked in the interview what I don’t do well, a question
designed to test your honesty, I would say, “I’d go glassy-eyed and
catatonic watching kooks blow wave after wave.”
Do you have what it takes? Would you set up a home in
cotton-farming Lemoore so you could work at Surf Ranch?
The salary is undisclosed although I imagine around 100 thousand
dollars per year would be a rough approximation.