Thoughts on a new friend.
We met in the back of a non-descript warehouse,
the sort where all kinds of things are made and stored and sold. I
handed her a envelope stuffed with cash and she carefully counted
it out. It felt like a drug deal. I was picking up a board, which
maybe isn’t all that different for people like us.
On the way, I’d lost myself in an island chain of strip malls
looking for a bank. All the buildings looked the same. Who can
possibly find anything in such a place? I made more wrong turns
than I’d like to admit. I am bad at following directions, which I’m
guessing won’t come as a surprise to any of you. But I found my way
to my new surfboard.
I’d met Christine Brailsford Caro earlier this spring, while
working on a story for Red Bull’s magazine, the Red Bulletin. A
friend of mine who has an eye for this kind of thing, told me to
check out Furrow, which is the name Caro uses for her boards.
“She’s this rad shaper down in San Diego. Her boards look epic.” My
friends text like this. I can’t help it. But I do tend to trust
their judgment when it comes to surfboards.
When I went to interview Caro, we sat outside Moonlight Glassing
where she shapes and she told me how she grew up an artist. She
made wood carvings and her first boards were made from wood: an
alaia, a series of over-engineered handplanes (“They have little
rails, they don’t really need little rails”), and zippy little
paipos.
A friend wanted a board and offered to pay for the materials.
After that, Caro was hooked. The second board she made was for
herself: a 5’9” stubby design with a glass-on fin.
“I guess you’re supposed to keep your first surfboard. This is
my second surfboard, so I guess I have to keep it. One day, I’m
going to find some kid that’s worthy and I’m going to give it to
them.”
Caro is forthright that she’s not a shortboard shaper. Thrusters
aren’t her thing. She’s interested in the wild, innovative period
of design between the longboard era and the shortboard revolution.
Not surprisingly, she cites Greenough as an influence. “He made
this v-spoon and he was able to do these wrapping turns that no one
had ever seen before.” The first board she loved riding was a
fish.
Now, you will all be rolling your eyes. Like, what is going on?
Why is she writing about a fish shaper? She said she hated fish.
She said she hated fish and was never riding a fish again. She said
they make her arms do weird things. They do! It’s true that riding
a fish does make my arms do weird things. But I’m trying to
overcome these feelings. Rainbows. Unicorns. Peace. Love. Kale. And
fish.
At the time I interviewed Caro, I had an obsession. I wanted a
super short small wave board. I blame the diabolical geniuses at
Catch Surf for this desire. Last summer one of my editors wanted a
fun, beach-surf story and I suggested soft-tops. I’d ride them and
write about them. Easy, I thought.
Then I rode a Catch Surf Beater for the story. And then, I kept
riding it. It was aesthetically questionable — and became even more
so with time. Also, I got like zero respect in the lineup. A chick
on a boogie board. Awesome.
So when Caro said she liked making short, fast boards, I
figured, here was the solution. I’d have her make me a tiny board.
A twin fin. It would be fast and slidey. We emailed back and forth.
Two fins. 4’10” long. 20” wide. A moon-shaped tail. I told her to
put the volume wherever she felt it would work best. I picked a
blue resin tint almost exactly the shade of a Tiffany box.
I drove to the industrial park with my envelope full of cash. It
fits snugly under my arm, this baby twinnie. The color looks
amazing. Caro shaped a single concave bottom with the cutest little
v between the fins. There’s a tiny short rail line and a round
nose. The tail is wide with a killer moon-shaped cut-out. When I
met Chas for lunch later, he insisted on smelling it. At least he
didn’t lick it.
I didn’t expect it to matter to me that a woman had made my
board. I love gossiping with my usual shortboard shaper and he
makes me lovely, precisely tuned boards. But somehow, there’s
something special about this one. It’s the first time I’ve had a
board made by a woman who loves playing in the waves just like I
do. I guess it’s a kind of kinship, a meeting of kindred spirits. I
can’t quite explain it. It just is.
I rode the board last night and it’s screaming fast. I giggled
madly. It’s giving me the best kinds of ideas. Boards should give
you ideas — the more improbable, the better.
Caro named her boards Furrow for the lines farmers cut into
their fields to plant their crops. She describes a furrow as a path
and sees her boards as seeds.
“One of my goals is to bring joy and positive energy into the
world with what I create. And that’s what I feel like with my
boards. You know, I’m not doing anything amazing or miraculous. I’m
not saving lives or anything. I’m just hoping it’ll give someone
this experience of joy that they can take with them in their
lives.”