Vulnerability!
Kelly Slater has given thousands of interviews in his professional life. He’s talked with all the surf magazines, all the real magazines, television hosts, podcasters, newspapers, blogs, etc. but maybe give the best of his career to Forbes just yesterday.
He spoke with Jim Clash whose byline for the financial publication reads, “I write about culture and adventure sports.” He asked Kelly five simple questions, just five.
1. What’s the biggest wave face you’ve surfed?
2. Where is your favorite place to surf, and where is scariest? (technically this should have been two questions in my opinion)
3. Who was your surfing idol growing up and who are the hot-shots today? (again, two)
4. What do you think of tow surfing?
He has insightful answers to each and you should read in entirety but the most insightful was to the question, “What are you afraid of?”
What’s Surfer Poll’s recently crowned 3rd most popular surfer in the world afraid of?
I guess we’re all afraid of dying on some level. And that fear is realistic in what I do. I know about a half dozen surfers who have drowned. Formula 1 may be more dangerous. I don’t know how many people have died there. But I do know Ayrton Senna was one. I get scared of feeling like I’m all alone in the world, and that no one can help me but me. But that’s kind of why we do what we do. It gives this sense of freedom that it’s you making all of the decisions.
Leaving aside that Kelly clearly had just watched the film Senna before the interview, does it surprise you that he gets scared of feeling like he’s all alone in the world and that no can help him?
I’m here, Kelly. I write about you once a day, sometimes twice, and when I’m writing I think about you, about what you’re doing, who you’re with etc. and then everyone talks about you in the comments below.
All in all, we spend about 3.5 hours a day on BeachGrit thinking, talking, wondering about you. Swing by next time you’re lonely or just listen to this song we got together and wrote for you.
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Well, fodes caralho, desculpa me!
For Me , being Alone is where the magic happens . Silence , intuition, creativity and self reflection. What is there to fear ?
Makes me really want to watch it. Thanks Blondie 🙂
That time of the month?
Kelly should’ve gone for an Andre Agassi wig when his hair went, that would have won him at least 3 more titles and even more marketing deals.
‘I guess we’re all afraid of dying on some level. And that fear is realistic in what I do.”
Kelly, having one foot in the grave is just hyperbolic phraseology. It best you be scared what happens s’later when the other is on a banana peel.
Well, there is the duck-dive, which is performed by one’s self, and there is a simply dunking, which is done to someone. Never seen the hybrid version.
I come to Beach Grit for the Michael Jackson videos.
WTF is a dunk-dive?
I… I… think…it’s a tragic hero history, with all his arcs.
First of all, sooner, being on an extreme poverty, sockless…
And then the overcome, titles, many titles… smiling with friends, because you and all them, at these times, was just saying “is pure fun, being with friends, surfing the best waves…” although you made unthinkables ways to win all those “friendly heats”…
And then… baldness came…
Now you’re on your own league, ex poor sockless and bald with millions… but you feels something wrong… And you still feels something must be do… your own standards surfboards, a wavepool… But still there’s something’s to do… noble and bold…
And then… enlightment!
Turn all people full socks in, with a low costs… and so you create your own brand… sustainable.
And now here you are, alone, scratching a noisy brain…
“Am I alone?”…
“Am I a solitaire?”…
“What”s my place in this vast, and tiny, world?”
“What’s my real significance to the surfing world? My words counts?”
“Do I research and repursuit my origins? Be sockless again?”
“Here am I! Unique! X-Man! Mutant in a world of humans!
All these titles, millions, brands, no more sockless… bald… and sustainable! And solitaire…
Oh! supreme mind that rules all worlds
Exists a living being, like me, to share my thoughts and restlessness?”
… … …
“JEFF BEZOS!”
I hold my hand up as guilty whinge puss-head!!!
We can’t all live as varied and interesting a life as you IB. No chafe intended.
Best wishes Flatty.
He’s going to have plenty of time on his hands soon. Perhaps he could enroll on a philosophy degree or some such. Seriously. Kelly?
Shave it all off . Fresh start for chest hair and heart . Good luck brother .
I bet you make a mean sandwich.
We’re all alone in our mind.
Sorry I didn’t get passed the part where you said Schumacher is in a casket, the man is still alive, you’ve been found out, you are full of shit!
U guys should hook up!
Taking the piss indeed, with your celebrity Rolodex! You think you are winning here, we have just established that you were lying and that you are full of shit, that was before you disgraced yourself by wishing death to my friends! I’m working all night, I’m not going anywhere! As you are still here can you explain how you were under the impression that Sennas car killed your other friend?
Go away! Go hang out with your imaginary famous friends, don’t waste your time with me!