"Or maybe I need a Wavestorm."
I wasn’t at all ready for Spring break.
There I was, huddled in my hoody, board under my arm, slouching my way back from a mediocre surf. To be clear, both my surfing and the waves were mediocre, and not charmingly so. A bump of eddy, a near-fatal weakness, a murder of close-outs. But it was surf and a girl can’t complain too much.
Suddenly, a white Vanagan appeared out of nowhere. It sped by me, down the dead-end road to the beach. Music poured out the open windows. Some sort of amped up surf guitar, what you might get if you sent Dick Dale through an automated computer remix. They came to a sudden halt, as though they hadn’t expected the road to end so quickly. I could hear excited chatter emanating from the van, like squirrels discovering a brand new species of nut.
I stopped to watch what might happen next. Doors flung open, all at once. More excited, and from my vantage point, unintelligible, chatter. It was like they were seeing the beach for the very first time. Omg! The ocean! Waves! A Wavestorm slid out of the van, handled lovingly like the most precious work of art. Which, perhaps it is, all that fresh foam and elastomer skin. The board was brand-new with the shrink wrap still on it. This was going to be the best spring break ever.
I continued my walk back to the car, eyes wide at the thought that somehow it had become spring already. Time had sped up somehow. February mostly passed us by. Every day, flat. Rain, wind, no swells of note. South wind turned to onshore. Wash, rinse, repeat. Lows that spun the wrong way, which is not a thing that I thought was possible until it happened, week after week.
To be clear, I’m not complaining at all about the rain. It felt like a revelation to have the rain come at last. It fills the reservoirs and greens the hills. It builds sandbars and pushes cobbles down the mountains to our favorite point breaks, replenishing and renewing. These are all good things, in my opinion.
There’s also an acute psychological burden to living in drought country, I think. The sun beats down, blanching the soil, baking away every last drop of moisture. Life feels precarious and contingent. Maybe we aren’t supposed to be here at all. I remember a couple summers ago, browsing the book store, I picked up a dystopian novel set in drought-ridden California. Too real, man, too real. With the near-constant fires and baking heat, with the reservoirs steadily draining, it had already begun to feel pretty fucking dystopian.
But all that’s been washed away, at least, temporarily. California’s drama queen weather is never predictable. Maybe it rains again tomorrow, or maybe we’ll all scorch for months under the blazing sun. Dance while you can.
Whatever the weather decides to do next, the spring people are definitely here, pitching their umbrellas in the sand and staking their claim to a summer of fun. A guy on a longboard says hi to me like he’s known me forever. He’s bubbling with the exuberance, intoxicated by the sun, the waves, the whole thing. I can’t say I recognize him. He’s not one of the winter crew that I’ve seen every day — except February — for months. I fake my way through pretending to be less clueless than I actually am. This isn’t the worst way to go through life, I’ve found.
You surf through the winter. You surf in the rain and the wind. You surf a day with offshores so cold the wave’s spray cuts like glass. You stand on the beach to change, the wind whipping and tugging at your towel, your hands frozen to lobster claws, tugging clumsily at zippers and underwear that tourniquets around your legs. You drop your car keys and can’t pick them up. One day you get it good with six guys out. You know them all. You giggle with the secret glee of getting away with something that maybe you shouldn’t.
But now the spring people are here with their beach towels and their Wavestorms and their happy grins. Pull the shrink wrap off another one. I wonder if I sit close enough, if their exuberance will spread to me like some kind of virus. How would that feel? Fun, maybe.
I didn’t sit close enough to the shiny spring people to find out. Shitty waves, they still feel shitty. Maybe I need a Wavestorm. That fresh shrink wrap smell will make it all feel better.
California’s drama queen weather is never predictable. Maybe it rains again tomorrow, or maybe we’ll all scorch for months under the blazing sun. Dance while you can.
Great writing. I’m stealing it….
We need to be friends….and then take the Spring Breaker kooks over in a wave of fiery arrow attacks.
Near the end of my first European Winter , I came out of a lecture to find a group of Swedish friends lying on the grass soaking up the sun and when I asked them why they were sunbaking when it was 13”Celsius they replied in unison because it is wonderful and what would I know about the joys of spring having spent all my life in Sydney ? Next year I joined them !
Ice Ice Scotty ? Apologies in advance for the reference to Vanilla Ice .
A book of BG comments would be hilariously off-kilter, I think.
Christmas and my birthday on the same day!
Good for a laugh, but plenty of worse musical options surely.
Ain’t none of that here. All surf options bar one are within 50m walk to the beach. The exception is an island which if it’s on now, with the benefit of swell predictions etc, is crowded with more hot rats than a desertable ship in summer.
Email me at thebenmalibugmail.com and Ill send the raw copy.
Readers wanted: I want to see if people get all the way through it, and what engages them, and what doesn’t.
It’s a long interview, but it reads easy.
I read more about surfing now, than I surf, so I would love to read as well?
Email me and I’ll send the raw. There’s a lot of it, but I want to see if people read all the way through it. [email protected]
Not sure.
The guy is in South Africa and when he comes back I am going to do an interview for the final chapter – then we have to see how much money he wants to put into it, and how big the book can be.
With all that material, it’s going to have to be a big book to make it all breathe.
Might just put it all online and save a tree.
We shall see. We have decisions to make.
JenSee… you know how to get the replies….167 in seconds. You know where the minds of men are…..wow!
Oh I was trying to insult you – and all Australians – because of your convict past but it backfired on me.
I do wonder how many Britons and Irish went willingly.
The boat ride over couldn’t have been much fun – seven months or something – but once you got there: https://getyarn.io/yarn-cli…
Right now I’m doing a book with a guy who was born in 1929, grew up during the Depression frolicking with Shirley Temple on the beaches of Laguna Beach, was a high school student during World War II, went to college and surfed lonely Rincon in the second half of the 1940s and went to Hawaii for the first time in 1953.
He hitch-hiked around the world from 1958 – 1961 and fate pointed him toward Capetown and John Whitmore and Cape Saint Francis.
This guy pointed Bruce Brown at Tahiti and South Africa and that changed things. You can draw an arc from Cape Saint Francis to Surf Ranch and there is a connected line.
He also handled all the business for Hobie and essentially laid down the planks of the modern surf industry – for better or worse.
He talks about how hard it was for a gentleman to get laid in the first half of the 20th Century – which is why he went around the world.
Interesting book: 80,000+ word interview and hundreds of photos.
Most of them great, especially that Kodachrome from the 50s and 60s.
The colors pop and they’re tack sharp.
Only problem now is making it all fit.
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Everyone I talk to from my dad to Miki Dora – says the 50s were the best time to be in California. Modern enough to be comfortable, but tens of millions less people but all the advantages of perfect weather, prosperity, etc.
California is overpopulated by a factor of eight – that is the problem with California.
Why is why I like Malibu so much – this place is refreshingly not screwed up.
There are other places like that: Carmel, Saratoga, Montauk, Sun Valley.
Chumash probably had it good for a long time. My local break has a big midden, they did seem to like the spots we do. And seafood too. Shells and more shells… I always wonder who lived right here before me.
Yep if you’re going to be a native American, Chumash territory was a pretty good place to do that: Almost perfect weather, rivers chockablock with salmon and steelhead, lobster and abalone six on top of the each other.
I wondered how they kept their thatched huts = aka ‘ap – from blowing away in the Santa Anas, but I sat in one with a very pissed off Chumash guy near Zeros and saw they were anchored pretty good into the ground.
The Malloys need to find a Polynesian fishhook or warrior bones in one of their Chumash digs and prove once and for all the Polynesians made it to the west coast around 800 and showed the Chumash and Gabrielinos how to build canoes.
I find that surfing in Santa Barbara/Goleta is really fun.
But, a wavestorm and weed are necessary for spring, summer, and most of fall
This got me. Classic anti-depressive in the beginning and then bashed over the head with the threat at the end.
You’ll be OK Jen, it’s never as bad as you think it is. (Can someone please check the lights are off during the daytime?)
Ma shit, ma shit ma hoes ma guns
Brilliant Britney cover
Jimmy Francos best work yo!
Wavestorms always seem like a fun idea, until you catch a decent wave and realize you can’t do shit on them but go straight. Then you wish you brought a real board and made it work.
In truth, I have not found them to be at all fun. I can’t ride ’em for shit.
Jeezuz no! Don’t get close to them. The virus you will catch is not the ‘fun/exuberance’ one. It’s the over-self entitlement VAL one. and there ain’t no thymidasol mercury strong enough to vaccinate against that sucker.
Phew, I’m glad I didn’t take the risk!
i was in California roughly this time ten years ago and can confirm seeing idiots in bikinis and beachshorts spiking volleyballs on the dirty sand of Santa Cruz like they were in a Coca Cola commercial.
Santa Cruz can be warm in the winter – especially if it’s protected and out of the wind.
Santa Cruz faces south so the sun angles in there and it can be 70 degrees plus in the winter.
Dirty sand? Dirty with organic flotsam, or human flotsam?
Meanwhile as an Aussie, I was covered head to toe and still mostly freezing.
Perhaps your thin blood is due to convict genetics? Maybe not.
Some people are just really committed to the California Golden State hoax.
California is still golden in a lot of ways and places.
It’s certainly a rich state.
Why, the $2.6 trillion GDP of California alone is twice that of Australia’s $1.3 trillion.
For fook’s sake.
One state of 155,959 square miles outproduces a continent-sized country of 2.9 million square miles?
There are a lot of golden girls and golden people in California – not all of them are phony, some of them are talented and decent and content.
Just depends on where you look.
Right now I’m in a coffee shop in Malibu and there are a lot of pretty, happy, healthy, smiley girls passing through, and a lot of nice people with families enjoying the spring sunshine and hills that are greener than Ireland because of the Woolsey Fire and the rains.
A lot of Teslas and other fancy cars out in the parking lot. Golden prosperity. That’s why they call it the Golden State, although right now Malibu is blooming with Golden Poppies and mustard grass – it looks like Ireland.
California’s goldenness is being tarnished by overpopulation and drugs and theft and meth, but the truth is, the rest of the world is listless and dull compared to California – it’s the center of the universe in a lot of ways, which is why there are 40 million people living here -almost 1/9th the population of the United States.
Did you know there are more people living between Santa Barbara and Mexico than in all of Australia?
Yawn.
It’s just the truth.
This state is ridiculously wealthy and is from the ground up: Gold, then oil.
Agriculture alone is worth $100 billion.
Then tech, real estate, aerospace.
That’s why it’s the Golden State: IT’S RICH!!!!!
That’s why it’s the Center of the Universe.
That’s why – thank God – Trump doesn’t really matter in California, and his whole rap makes no sense here.
Trump is for those with nothing, who need hope.
Well gold, then oil is actually from the ground down so…
No dear, gold comes up from the ground and oil also comes up from the ground.
So it’s from the ground up.
That’s how we do it in America anyway.
Seems to work.
I have relatives who were oil people during the wildcat days of the 1930s and they had a ball.
My great uncle Sid was sent to Africa to look for minerals right before the stock market crashes and the Depression started.
He spent years there living like a bwana and then on the boat ride back he played poker with Baroness Blixen of Out of Africa fame.
Then he went to Texas and got stupid Texas rich.
Ben Marcus you’re back! Terrible to see you again.
You’d flip out if you lived on the northern beaches
I’ve heard the Northern Beaches are nice.
I wonder if the weather there is as good or better than Malibu?
I wonder if the weather anywhere is as good or better than Malibu?
Someone said that southern Sicily is similar – consistently sunny, blue and perfect, year around.
Didn’t go to the Northern Beaches when I was in Oz in 1980.
Sure they were nice then, too.
I did fish the Thredbo River where it flows into Lake Jindabyne.
Trout went nuts in the evening for the bug hatches of whatever bug.
Saw a wombat waddling across the way and almost got bit by two snakes and got chased into a tree by a mob of longhorn cattle.
It’s very similar.
No desert so more humid
Same latitude.
Malibu runs east to west and that is the key to why the weather is so consistently perfect here.
Especially in winter, although this winter was a little rough – cold, rain – it snowed at sea level.
Also latitude. And geography. Also ocean front.
In the summer it will be 110 in the Valley and 30 degrees cooler here.
Santa Cruz runs east to west and it’s pretty nice there in the winter too, but Malibu wins.
Alll of the south and east facing coastal zones in Cal got settled out pretty early. Many international industrialists and the uber wealthy realized they were very similar to the Italian and French retreats. Some pluses, some minuses on that, but clmate pretty close.
I like Cito better than Malibu, mostly cause of the closeness of the mts. here..and the waves I suppose. I got lucky and can bike around to surf when the roads get horrible. Thats sort of the LA problem for me, fear of a SIG alert and getting stuck down there. (happened once or twice) Summer means traveling for the souths, and nothing beats pulling around Mugu to see those swells powering though! I mean, its crazy to see how awesome it is, when SB is literally under 1 ft and dreary fog…
Some neat spots right by the road too, off the ciffs,although its been awhile for me making the trip……Sun always feels brigher and stronger there. That azure blue when you are up top looking down….pretty awesome…and thats usually when SB is fogged in, so its pretty startling.
I’ve written a lot of California history so I know Malibu history probably better than anyone by now. Mr. Rindge bought the 13,000-acre Malibu Rancho around 1881 intending to turn it into “The California Riviera.” He died unexpectedly of a diabetic coma around 1905 and his wife tried to continue that vision.
The Rindge estate was worth $22 million – the modern equivalent of half a billion dollars – and Mrs. Rindge could have said “screw it” and sold it all and moved to New York or Paris and lived like a queen.
But she wanted to continue her husband’s vision and she fought long hand hard through the first half of the 20th Century.
She wasn’t going to win, but she wasn’t going to quit.
If Trump had a different name youd realize he’s just another president
Trump is definitely not just another president.
He’s changed whole game.
You no longer have to be dignified, bonafide or qualified to be president.
He is a greedy 1-percenter who somehow convinced the proles to vote for him.
He is the yobbo president.
He is a political genius right up there with Hitler except he’s not as dangerous or deadly.
Yeah yeah and Obama was the 2nd coming,
He’s just a guy.
If you think he’s in control you’re naive.
Capitalism rules literally and no better system has yet been uncovered
I know that capitalism rules.
But there is a difference between capitalism and blind greed, and if America lets money corrupt its politics, we’re no better than Mexico or any other corrupt, shithole Third World Country.
And that is what Trump represents – a complete disregard for anything but money
I argue with Socialists all the time.
My great great grandfather was best friends with Karl Marx for fook’s sake and at some point he burned all of Marx’ letters.
Humans are more competitive than cooperative, ergo we are capitalist.
But is a president that vulgar and corrupt and power hungry and lying a good thing?
I thought America was a Christian country?
Trump is fully aware that unfortunately in this system Money is the key.
I find him refreshingly honest, I couldn’t give a shit bout his personal habits
Anyways I got places to be and people to do.
Trump wants to waste billions of dollars on a wall that will accomplish very little.
He is smart, but he’s also a dangerous buffoon.
He is responding to the Vulgar Minority of Americans who generally are dumb as a box of rocks.
Has Australia ever had a president who acted like a yobbo?
Who responded to the wishes of the yobbolopy?
Doubt it.
You seem OK but a bit up yourself.
Noone perfect Exept GMed.
I went to the Mara Wolford School of Charm, ergo, I think I’m smarter than everyone.
Who is GMed?
Who is Mara wolford?
You doubt it?
https://www.youtube.com/wat…
You should read Dereks book.
https://www.amazon.com/Wedn…
Obama was and is dignified, honest, transparent, dedicated and funny as fuck.
Did you watch his speeches at the White House Correspondent’s Dinner?
The only mistake he made was heckling Trump and creating a monster.
Still a class act and a very smart guy – obviously.
A half black man with a Muslim middle name from nowhere got elected president – only way to do that is brains and talent.
I don’t care about race nor should anyone
Oh but people do. Very much so.
The problem with Obama is it takes a PhD to appreciate his act – and most Americans cain’t hardly spell PhD.
Imagine how pissed off our convict forebears were.
“Noooo, please don’t take us away from this shitty, always raining soon to be Industrial smog blanketed, if we’re lucky we’ll get a job working in the mills or mines for 14hrs a day to earn enough to share a 2 bedroom slum lord tenement to share with 3 families.”
“Oh, hang on. This place isn’t so bad with it’s non-existent winters and plentiful space to stretch out and forge a living with a bit of hard work being rewarded”.*
*Not saying we haven’t fucked it up since, but our convict ancestry isn’t quite the insult you think. Given the fact that your first immigrant wave was a bunch of self-obsessed religious refugees. How’d that work out?
Ha!
I’ve argued that myself.
I’ve wondered how many Irish and British heard about a place where the sun shone and there was food and less of a class system so they got busted willingly to get transported there?
I’ve also wondered how Cook and Vancouver kept their crews from going AWOL in the Hawaiian islands – the weather is perfect, food is abundant and there’s naked chicks swimming out to the boat, keen for a root: “Yeah let’s go back around the horn and back to England and sit in the gloom and die of Spanish flu or whatnot.”
This country worked out pretty well for a while, but it’s hit a brick wall.
Too many people consuming too much, having too damned many children.
Too many stupid people having stupid people – look who get elected president.
America is becoming a nation of frauds, cheaters and phonies.
Swell.
sounds like you have found your special place. be sure you stay there.
There’s a lot of special places.
I move around a lot.
Humans are bedouin by nature, we’ve just forgotten.
I will be sure to avoid Yobboland, or wherever it is you live.
you first reply was much better. now you appear as petty as me.
Tom Petty used to come to this Starbucks at Trancas all the time – and then he died.
That cut down on his coffee consumption considerably.
oops, that was meant to be pretty, now you need to make up another story regarding a celebrity. sorry for the inconvenience.
Pretty?
I saw Pierce Brosnan at the bar at Cafe Habana last night and showed him the photo I took of Bill Clinton when he and Brosnan came strolling down E Dock in Kewalo Basin a couple summers ago.
https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
HH was staying on the boat at the time.
She’s kind of pretty except she might even be more cuckoo than You Know Who – ADHD and family dysfunction and other things = a tiramiso of neuroses on top of a pretty girl.
There’s a girl sitting at this table right now who is really pretty. She’s from Oxnard but her boyfriend is working close by.
JS just came through en route to Montecito – he’s the chap who directed Blue Crush and almost got fired because he let Kate Bosworth paddle out at big Pipe to do a camera test – before she was insured.
BL and BK and DK and them were right here, but still…
JS had transgressed the Written and Unwritten Law of Hollywood: Never put the star in jeopardy or danger.
I always wondered why BL and GW and ZW and them didn’t get fired from Chasing Mavericks when they almost drowned Gerard Butler at Mavericks – that wasn’t pretty at all.
Killing the star is a major no no. Good for publicity maybe, but bad for a career – the career of the star who died, and the careers of the responsible parties what let him drown.
Saw ZW at Cowell’s a couple years ago and asked if that whole Gerard Butler deal was for real or a publicity stunt.
ZW said: “As real as the guy sitting sideways on his board and getting mowed by 12 feet of whitewater and going through the rocks. I went too. We all got hit.”
I said: “So you went through the rocks thinking you had drowned and killed the world’s biggest movie star?”
ZW said: “Yep.”
That would have been pretty bad.
Kate Bosworth was and is very pretty – almost as pretty as Brock.
She broke Brock’s heart a little, but he’s made of tougher stuff.
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This flying scene from Superman Returns is pretty good:
https://www.youtube.com/wat… :”I forgot how warm you are.”
Pretty? JS was very pretty when he was a young movie star.
Andy Warhol loved him – probably not physically, but soulfully.
I have a story about Warhol giving JS two “piss paintings” but that’s kind of classified.
Here is a link to a photo of JS, AW and CK at Studio 54.
https://www.pinterest.at/pi…
Couldn’t download it or screenshot it for some reason.
Calvin Klein was pretty then, too.
This was after Warhol got shot, which was right after he was filming San Diego Surf in La Jolla.
I called it a “homo-erotic homo movie” but CM corrected me and called it a “surf-erotic homo movie.”
I’ll bet it’s pretty and green where CM lives right now.
That pretty much does it, unless you want more.
Gotta figure out why I can’t steal and download photos from online, or save my screenshots.
Disk might be full.
How’s the name -drop count on that? Pierce Brosnan, BC, JS, BL, BK, DK, GW, ZW, Gerard Butler, Kate Bosworth, Warhol, CK, CM.
For you at home: Movie stars, presidents and fashion designers are bolded and count for 1 full point.
Surf stars count for half a point.
So what’s that?
Nine total points?
Actually, 10 points even.
Pretty good.
that’s a pretty long winded reply. I might just read it one day but if am going to spend time reading your work it may as well be the draft of your upcoming book. only well articulated and constructive criticism from me of coarse.
You asked for pretty.
I delivered many flavors of pretty.
The name drop count hit 10 on that.
That’s an accomplishment.
course