I apologize for the lack of content yesterday.
I am very near the end of first rough draft of next book and
plowing through from sun up to sun down. Derek Rielly, I assume, is
being shuttled from interview to interview talking about the
subject of his last book Wednesdays with
Bob, Australian PM Mr. Bob Hawke, who shuffled off
this mortal coil at the wonderful age of 89.
Today will be better, but if it isn’t you can always dive
headfirst into the world’s newest literary genre “My First Surf
Ranch.”
Now, for a “subject” to officially become a “genre” there must
be at least 6500 defining works detailing its various aspects and
today’s story What Happened
When I Tried to Surf an Artificial Mega Wave by Dan
Fitzpatrick in the Wall Street Journal kicks “My First Surf Ranch”
over the line.
Shall we read its opening stanza?
LEMOORE, Calif.—The fantasy of riding a wave engineered for
the world’s best surfers turns to panic when a loudspeaker offers
my last warning: “CT2, 30 seconds.”
I’m floating in a lagoon that spans the length of seven
football fields, surrounded by cottonwood trees and California farm
country. The 30-second alert means it’s too late to stop what
happens next. First an 80-ton hydrofoil sled will roll forward with
the help of a cable and truck tires, producing the rickety sound
made by a roller coaster at the beginning of its climb. Then I have
to confront a six-and-a-half-foot-high wall of water—CT2—that is
picking up speed as it approaches.
In my fantasy of this moment I paddle my surfboard into
position, pop to my feet and ride for an astonishing 50 seconds
while the action is captured on film.
It sings no?
And now that “My First Surf Ranch” is an official genre it also
must be subjected to very serious literary criticism etc. Classes
taught in colleges. Doctoral dissertations written. Etc.
Which, do you feel, is the “My First Surf Ranch” pièce de
résistance? Finnegan’s? Carroll’s? Doherty’s? Warshaw’s
Ferre’s?
Much to ponder.
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Terror in the Water: Man paddles out on
expensive board playing Jackson Browne!
It was a Tuesday afternoon. I was enjoying a
mid-day solo surf in fun south swell conditions ay my local quick
hit spot. The sun was shining. It was warm for the first time this
Southern California spring. There was nobody out.
I was happy.
Then my perfect little wiggle session was horribly
interrupted.
Lumbering down the stairs came a man who appeared to be in his
mid-late forties. He was carrying an oversized Slater Designs Omni
under his arm and a SoloShot over his shoulder. He set up the solo
shot and paddled out. I assumed this would be fine. This guy was
probably a VAL and was excited about capturing his session.
“It’s the two of us”, I thought. “You’ll get yours, waters warm,
the sun is shining, no need for vibing today,” I mentally said to
myself.
I WAS WRONG.
As the guy paddled out, I began to hear music. Not just any
music, Jackson motherfucking Browne music. “Running on Empty” to be
exact. It got louder as he approached so I turned to see that the
guy has a Speaqua
Barnacle affixed to the nose of his Omni.
There can’t be more you say? Wrong, below the Barnacle was
affixed a Trace thingamajigger.
Definitely required for the waist to chest one maneuver waves we
were catching. Many valuable data points to be extracted from that
session I am sure.
I tried to surf but was so distracted by the guy’s obviously
incorrectly sized thousand dollar surfboard, thousand dollar robot
camera, waterproof speaker (now playing “Doctor My Motherfuckin
Eyes”), his Trace, and by the fact that he had been swiping on his
fucking apple watch for the majority of the lulls in the swell,
that I caught one and went in.
Like Don Quijote tilting at windmills, I wondered, “Was that a
tech-nerd VAL ignorant of the lineup etiquette or was it a
fat-wallet power move by a guy who didn’t give a singular shit what
I thought about him or whether I wanted to listen to Jackson Browne
while surfing on a Tuesday afternoon?” I am frankly still confused
by the whole thing.
My brain quickly moved past that question when I came to the
realization that surfing has reached technology saturation. GPS
watches, GoPro, Trace, robot cameras, waterproof speakers, watches
that send and receive texts from the line-up. Wasn’t surfing
supposed to be a distraction from all of this?
Wasn’t the whole point of the whole thing to paddle out in
quietude and catch a couple so you can leave the rest on the beach?
Wasn’t the lineup, by design, supposed to be Jackson Browne
free?
YES.
Do you, Mister Perepetual Intermediate, really need to know the
velocity and turn radius of your wave captured by your Trace? Do
you really think anyone at work wants to see your shoulder hopping
antics as filmed by your robot assistant from the beach? Were the
GPS trace lines of your waves captured by Rip Curl watch really
important to capture? Do you really want to send texts from the
lineup?
NO.
I understand most surfers bring only their board and a suit, but
what I am seeing here is the potential for a very slippery slope.
If one man can ruin my entire focus with his techno gadgets, it can
happen to you. The more the market gets filled with connected TOYS
the more people will buy them. Maybe the lineup will one day get
polluted with things most of us wanted to leave on the beach-
noise, technology, connectivity, obligation. Where is our escape
then?
Please stop the madness, or at least stop it until I build my
private wave pool in a cellular dead zone behind an off-the-grid
cabin high atop a mountain away from all of you, and Jackson
Browne.
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Kelly's five-eight squash is second from
left.
Buy for $550: A custom version of the Akila
Aipa-shaped 5’8” Kelly Slater used to destroy Keramas!
Tell me this ain't a bargain in a world of
thousand-dollar boards.
You don’t get these sorta bargains or how do they say it
now, opportunities, very often.
Akila Aipa, a former pro surfer and the son of the great Hawaiian shaper Ben
Aipa, will build for you, and according to your
specific dimensions, a version of the five-eight squash-tail Kelly
Slater used to beat hell out of Keramas two days ago.
As our tour correspondent
reported, “Kelly leant back into a savage back foot
heavy layback hook. It was the turn of the day. The turn of Kelly’s
year. It lit a little candle of hope in the deep dark cave of
Kelly’s retirement year.”
Kelly and the turn of the day at Keramas on his
Akila Aipa-shaped five eight.
The board is part of a seven-board quiver Akila made Kelly
earlier this year.
See, Akila and Kelly have been pals for close on thirty years,
Akila part of the same Hawaiian pack that included Shane Dorian and
Ross Williams.
“I told him, ‘Holy shit, I don’t know if the judges are ready
for that. If you do take it out, walk up the beach, don’t show
anyone. They can’t see that shit!’ There’s this conformist fucking
mentality on tour, and it’s always been there, and until they have
a more open and a better judging criteria of skill, none of it will
ever make any sense.” AKILA AIPA
They talk a lot.
They both prefer shorter surfboards. Akila is five-ten and he’ll
ride five-twos and five-threes. He likes the freedom he gets to
pivot and to jam in the pocket.
Kelly was interested in riding one of Akila’s famous twin-fins
so Akila suggested he make a quiver, which included the twin, the
rest thrusters; some with Kelly’s fin placements, some with
Akila’s.
Akila made seven boards: a twin-finned 5’5″, the rest 5’7″s,
5’8″s and 5’9’s”.
When Keramas was revealed to be three foot, Kelly told Akila he
was thinking about surfing the twin in his heat.
“I told him, ‘Holy shit, I don’t know if the judges are ready
for that. If you do take it out, walk up the beach, don’t show
anyone. They can’t see that shit!’ There’s this conformist fucking
mentality on tour, and it’s always been there, and until they have
a more open and a better judging criteria of skill, none of it will
ever make any sense.”
He didn’t use the twin. He grabbed the five eight, which is
somewhere between 18 3/8″ and 18 1/2″ and maybe 2 1/4″ on the
rail.
When I laugh at the vague measurements, Akila says, “I just
connect the dots. It’s a shortboard crunched. I don’t know all that
fucking shit. It’s just a board, a rocker, a rail and I try and tie
all the subtleties together.”
The bottom curve is vee though the nose, a single concave under
the front foot that hits a double and then turns into vee through
the fins.
PU construction, too.
“I was getting so many texts, is that epoxy? Is that PU? I don’t
like the sensation of epoxy, personally. Epoxy does some weird
chattering because of its memory. I like the sensation of that
kinetic load on a bottom turn and the feedback on a top turn.”
When he saw Kelly on his board via the webcast Akila says he
felt a “wonderment.”
“I was flabbergasted and flattered and baffled that he chose to
ride it at one of the most high-performance waves in the world with
a lot of eyes watching. The last time I was that engaged in
watching a heat was watching Sunny winning an OP Pro on a board I
made in 2001.”
Akila’s voice softens, “We’re hurting on our brother.”
Now, you want one of Akila’s boards?
It ain’t as simple as jumping on the website. ‘Cause there ain’t
one.
“I’m a custom board builder. I’ve always been a one-on-one board
builder. I’m not set up for production.”
Still, if you email Akila at [email protected] and
y’tell him what you want, he’ll make a custom in four-to-six weeks
for $US550.
You need it shipped to Australia?
Akila has a flight attendant pal who’ll bring it over for an
extra fifty.
“It’s an honour making boards and I gotta find a way to service
people the best I can.”
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Ryan Callinan chooses quantity over quality. Wins
elimination heat.
Corona Bali Protected, Day Two: “Silky toy
waves at Keramas! A German VAL’s dream scenario!”
Six heats run and done in silky little toy waves at
Keramas. a German VAL’s absolute dream scenario.
I only say German, not to be racialist, but to pay homage to my
favourite overseas species of VAL. You there, with the booties,
over-sized Cymatic and GathHhat. I tips me lid to you.
Chances of running seemed nil but KP said he saw runners on the
incoming tide, with a better, more southerly angle. First
elimination heat and the wildcard paddled into a zippy close-out
for a 0.5 to start the day.
Joe Turpel: “These are the waves KP was talking about.”
After SurfAds piece on the fully muzzled commentary it almost
seems the problem is more deeply existential. If Joe said the sky
is blue, it’s almost certainly time to hit the storm bunker.
If he says “your gal was so well behaved last night, in fact the
whole week long” I’d be packing the suitcase.
Kanoa paddled up the reef with Deivid Silva, a tactic that I am
yet to find any advantage for in a three-man heat. Didn’t hurt
Igarashi, though, he sizzled on that SharpEye, like he did at J-Bay
last year.
He would be the only one from today’s elimination heats to
trouble any of the top seeds. Did you see him surf yesterday? A
single wave with a heat score of 1.77. All that gesturing and
waving of arms.
It was like Marcel Marceau reincarnated as a pro surfer. Very
entertainment.
Zeke and Leo paddled up the reef again to start Heat two. Why?
What possible strategic outcome, favourable or deleterious could
occur as a result? Were they coached to do so?
Zeke caught the first wave. Did a power hack layback that drew
the ire of Martin Potter and took an early lead. A traffic jam of
fives ensued. Leo Fioravanti with four minutes to go was a
miserable last. The surf had that silken texture – that makes a gal
blessed to be alive when luxuriating in it – that only Indonesia
can provide.
There was much talk of coaching. In the next heat, Luke Egan
made the point that one bad decision could cost you, while on
another occasion a trio of bad decisions could see you make it
through.
But what to learn from it? What lessons could a coach
impart?
Philosopher of science Karl Popper famously made the claim that
all biological science was a series of exceptions in search of a
rule.
How much more so a pro surfing heat?
If every heat is an individual case, every cause unique, then
every effect must be equally unrepeatable and unknowable.
You get my drift?
To prove the point Leo savaged a waist-high righthander for the
best score of the heat. Results went into a blender and last went
to first, first to last.
What could a coach make of it?
It’s a total crap shoot.
A non-elimination leader board opening round is the only way
forwards to sort the wheat from the goats and isolate the variables
we want from the ones we don’t. It smacked the WSL in the face at
Kelly’s pool and they didn’t even realise.
Heat three came to life with an electrifying flurry of head-high
waves ridden.
Soli got one, Seth got one and Ace. Judges awarded them each a
point separate from each other. Ace a full point higher for a
floater and vertical hit. Seth drained the juice from a peachy
little barrel that would have made any out of shape cube monkey
glisten with sickly envy. Hey, I could ride that!
Another good one to Ace, Seth consolidated and Soli Bailey was
left with a long, lonely wait with ten minutes ticking down. The
exact situation Ronnie Blakey had said surfers in this elimination
round would be vigorously advocating against.
They would want opportunity, he said. But opportunity did not
come.
A scrappy shoulder on the buzzer was not enough to keep Soli
away from the solace of a proper Pina Colada.
The last men’s elimination heat fell into a state of somnolence.
R-Cal fell and fell in an effort to get the ball rolling. Sebastien
Zietz sizzled and got into first place then last place as Jesse
Mendes charged from the back field. Another heat where anything
could have come out.
It makes the hundreds and thousands of heats that Kelly bent to
his will seem even more like a bargain with the devil.
Two women’s heats followed.
The second far superior with Silvana Lima and Courtney Conlogue
both looking stronger and sharper than Carissa Moore in the
previous heat.
The Indonesian wildcard , Kailani Johnson, was eliminated after
stuffing Carissa on a dreamy little peak. Such is life in the
crowded line-ups of Bali.
I probably surf like Paige Hareb. Bit stiff, bit off kilter.
Do you surf like someone on Tour?
Is it just me or is the Seeding Round and Elimination Round
making comps this year take forever to get “warmed up”?
Corona Bali Protected Men’s Round 3 (Round of 32)
Matchups:
Heat 1: Julian Wilson (AUS) vs. Jadson Andre (BRA)
Heat 2: Yago Dora (BRA) vs. Michael Rodrigues (BRA)
Heat 3: John John Florence (HAW) vs. Joan Duru (FRA)
Heat 4: Wade Carmichael (AUS) vs. Deivid Silva (BRA)
Heat 5: Italo Ferreira (BRA) vs. Jack Freestone (AUS)
Heat 6: Willian Cardoso (BRA) vs. Jeremy Flores (FRA)
Heat 7: Conner Coffin (USA) vs. Griffin Colapinto (USA)
Heat 8: Kolohe Andino (USA) vs. Ricardo Christie (NZL)
Heat 9: Filipe Toledo (BRA) vs. Caio Ibelli (BRA)
Heat 10: Seth Moniz (HAW) vs. Ryan Callinan (AUS)
Heat 11: Owen Wright (AUS) vs. Kelly Slater (USA)
Heat 12: Michel Bourez (FRA) vs. Rio Waida (IDN)
Heat 13: Gabriel Medina (BRA) vs. Leonardo Fioravanti (ITA)
Heat 14: Mikey Wright (AUS) vs. Adrian Buchan (AUS)
Heat 15: Kanoa Igarashi (JPN) vs. Peterson Crisanto (BRA)
Heat 16: Jordy Smith (ZAF) vs. Jesse Mendes (BRA)
Corona Bali Protected Women’s Round 2 (Elimination
Round) Results:
Heat 1: Carissa Moore (HAW) 10.67 DEF. Paige Hareb (NZL) 8.33,
Kailani Johnson (IDN) 2.33
Heat 2: Silvana Lima (BRA) 13.53 DEF. Courtney Conlogue (USA)
12.57, Macy Callaghan (AUS) 10.80
Corona Bali Protected Women’s Round 3 (Round of 16)
Matchups:
Heat 1: Carissa Moore (HAW) vs. Paige Hareb (NZL)
Heat 2: Johanne Defay (FRA) vs. Brisa Hennessy (CRI)
Heat 3: Caroline Marks (USA) vs. Silvana Lima (BRA)
Heat 4: Sally Fitzgibbons (AUS) vs. Coco Ho (HAW)
Heat 5: Stephanie Gilmore (AUS) vs. Keely Andrew (AUS)
Heat 6: Malia Manuel (HAW) vs. Courtney Conlogue (USA)
Heat 7: Lakey Peterson (USA) vs. Bronte Macaulay (AUS)
Heat 8: Tatiana Weston-Webb (BRA) vs. Nikki Van Dijk (AUS)
Red Bull Airborne Bali Qualifying Round
Matchups:
Heat 1: Noa Deane (AUS), Chippa Wilson (AUS), Jack Freestone (AUS),
Eli Hanneman (HAW), Lee Wilson (IDN), Made Darmayasa ‘Blerong’
(IDN)
Heat 2: Ian Crane (USA), Eithan Osborne (USA), Matt Meola (HAW),
Mason Ho (HAW), Oliver Kurtz (USA), Eric Geiselman (USA)
Heat 3: Yago Dora (BRA), Filipe Toledo (BRA), Reef Heazlewood
(AUS), Finn McGill (HAW), Kalani David (HAW), Bronson Meydi
(IDN)
Heat 4: Ian Crane (USA), Filipe Toledo (BRA), Jack Freestone (AUS),
Mason Ho (HAW), Kalani David (HAW), Made Darmayasa ‘Blerong’
(IDN)
Heat 5: Noa Deane (AUS), Reef Heazlewood (AUS), Finn McGill (HAW),
Eli Hanneman (HAW), Oliver Kurtz (USA), Eric Geiselman (USA)
Heat 6: Yago Dora (BRA), Chippa Wilson (AUS), Eithan Osborne (USA),
Matt Meola (HAW), Lee Wilson (IDN), Bronson Meydi (IDN)
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Florida surfer arrested for reckless
driving begs cops to take him to jail instead of back to demanding
wife!
"She treats me like a servant and she’s the
mistress!"
I’ll tell you one thing that makes me happy
about the “ride anything” movement currently hurtling our world
toward the surf
apocalypse, maybe the only thing. This story right
here about a seventy-year-old man “surfing” his Cadillac down the
highway in Florida. Before the age of SUPs, SUP foils, dog
longboards etc. a story about “surfing” a Cadillac would have been
inappropriate for a surf website to cover.
Today it is par for the course, if you’ll forgive the mixed
metaphor, and let’s get straight to
it without delay. Let’s not waste anymore time even
thinking about SUP foils.
State troopers recently arrested a Florida man who was
caught trying to live out his Titanic movie fantasies and make his
heart go on atop a moving vehicle. Local news affiliates report
that authorities arrested Leonard Olsen, 70, after an off-duty
deputy for the Hillsborough County Sheriff’s Department caught him
on video, attempting to “surf” his Cadillac while traveling on the
highway with cruise control enabled.
The deputy first noticed Olsen’s Cadillac doing more than
100 miles per hour when it abruptly slowed down to just 40 mph.
Then, Olsen supposedly opened the sunroof and propped himself up on
top of his moving car while traveling on Interstate 4 in the
westbound lane. This prompted the officer to begin recording video
on his smartphone.
Following the event, the deputy called in for on-duty
reinforcements, to which Florida Highway Patrol responded. Olsen
was pulled over just a few minutes later at the intersection of
US-98 and Wedgewood Estates Boulevard.
“I thought it would be a nice way to praise God for a
minute, and I thought it would be nice at the time and that’s what
I did,” Olsen supposedly said in his testimony, according to the
Florida Highway Patrol’s arrest report.
When Olsen was apprehended, he was quoted saying that he’d
rather go to jail than go back to his home.
“My wife treats me like a servant and she’s the mistress,”
Olsen continued. “Lock me up, I’d rather go to jail than go back
home.”
Note perfect, no? From the Titanic fantasies to the “wife treats
me like a servant and she’s the mistress…” it doesn’t miss a
beat.
But quickly, would you rather go to jail for a month or be
forced to ride a SUP foil for the rest of your life?
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Jon Pyzel and Matt Biolos by
@theneedforshutterspeed/Step Bros
