Our reviewer approaches HBO surf documentary with trepidation. Expects schmaltz on epic scale.
Everyone thought he would go on forever. And even now, with the retirement called and “one last lap” started (disastrously) we still can’t quite accept Kelly Slater might one day be gone.
Momentum Generation, a movie-length documentary, as you probably know, takes a retrospective look at the First Act of Kelly’s career, and puts the supporting cast of New Schoolers into context with him during that phase.
It’s a story of friendship and death. It does illuminate the last lap, softens judgement by critics who see the current Legacy phase of Kelly’s career as a textbook case of a narcissist who can’t let go of the spotlight.
I approached it with some trepidation. Expecting cheese and schmaltz on an epic scale.
The film was being played at the Byron Community centre and the organiser had asked me to attend; he wanted me to prepare some questions for a post-film Q and A.
But, what if it was epically lame and all I could offer up were platitudes or the kind of questions I’d love to ask him man on man but that would turn off a loved up audience here to pay homage to the GOAT?
That dilemma about how to review continues, sharpened in the context of current events like the suicide attempt of Sunny Garcia. Presenting a truthful account versus the potential hurt caused by unkind and insensitive comments.
Kelly’s got a lot, far more than I’ll ever have: world titles, loot, fame, celebrity etc. But I’ve got what he hasn’t and may never have. Kids who know that Dad, even if the Point is pumping, will show up to the cross-country race. A dad who might need a couple of brown sangas to get through the school play but he’ll be there.
Every time.
They know I’ll back them up, even if, especially if, they are in the wrong.
The most poignant revelation in Momentum Generation, or maybe Kelly revealed it in the Q and A was the fact that his Dad never showed up to watch a single CT contest he was in.
Can you imagine what a kick in the guts that would be?
Dad never showed up to witness who he was, his greatness, his whole being.
That theme runs strong through the opening scenes of Momentum Generation. Absent Dads, overbearing, aggressive, asshole Dads.
“They’ll fuck you up – your Mum and Dad,” claimed English poet Phil Larkin. It describes the damaged Lost Boys who coalesced around the genius of Slater perfectly.
There are some jarring notes in the opening scenes.
The film makes a major point about surfing still being a renegade, anti-social activity. Kelly claims he didn’t even know pro surfing was a thing.
The Momentum Generation inherited all the benefits of a fully developed surf-industrial complex built by an earlier generation. A major premise of the film, that the Momentum Generation brought surf into the mainstream, is built on a very shaky foundation.
While the non-surfing world still swallows the myth of surfing being a radical activity outside the bounds of normal society, even today, it’s a trope worth selling, the truth is far more prosaic.
Tom Carroll had already signed a million-dollar contract with Quiksilver in 1988, while the Momentum crew were tweens. Kelly was groomed and courted by big money before his teenage years. He was carefully cultivated as “the one”, an updated and improved Tom Curren that could be sold to Middle America.
The Momentum Generation inherited all the benefits of a fully developed surf-industrial complex built by an earlier generation. A major premise of the film, that the Momentum Generation brought surf into the mainstream, is built on a very shaky foundation.
The film is on much firmer footing when it explores its other main themes: friendship, vulnerability and the pressures that competition puts on people in close contact.
Leaving out an earlier incarnation of communal living where the Momentum crew had gathered at the Hill House behind Laniakea under the tutelage of Brock Little and Todd Chesser the film spends much of its narrative capital exploring the relationships that developed at Benji Weatherly’s Pipeline crib.
Todd Chesser, Cheese, remains the alpha male and spiritual leader of the group. A Dionysian father figure with a mad passion for big waves.
Cheese takes the flawed, molten characters of Slater, Dorian, Benji, Kalani Robb, Ross Williams, Machado et al and steels them in the furnace of the North Shore into a force that took over the world.
A classic tale of bildungsroman in filmic form.
World titles follow, the world is dominated etc. You know the story.
Chesser was a pivotal figure not just for surf stars. He called me into the biggest wave of my life, at Haleiwa. I’d slept on the beach, in a cheap suit, after a party and woke up in a sleeping bag underwater getting rolled down the beach into the shorebreak.
Then Todd Chesser goes and dies. Drowned on a massive day at Outside Alligators. And the close knit world of the Momentum Generation falls apart.
The emotional impact of Chesser’s death still reverberates today. Kelly took the stage for the Q and A in an Oatmeal-Heather Odyssey Reversible Crew ($US68) in tears. Through sobs, he recounted how hard it still was for him to watch the film and reflect on the passing of Chesser.
Chesser was a pivotal figure not just for surf stars.
He called me into the biggest wave of my life, at Haleiwa. I’d slept on the beach, in a cheap suit, after a party and woke up in a sleeping bag underwater getting rolled down the beach into the shorebreak. A massive swell had hit in the night.
I paddled out sometime mid-morning, in a state of high anxiety, on an 8’2” Rawson. The Toilet bowl was like a scene from a Poe short story. Gothic apocalypse. Cheese was out there , toying with it. That sideways arrogant grin making it seem like surfing big waves was about as risky as buying a carton of milk.
At some point, the apex of a huge peak came to me and trying desperately to elude it Cheese looked me straight in the eye and screamed “Go!” He had an internal force within him that made obedience mandatory. So I did. Like all the Momentum crew did when he turned them from scared young kids into Pipeline maestros.
Chesser wasn’t the only father figure Kelly wept over during the Q and A. He broke down when discussing the influence of Jack Johnson’s Dad, Pete Johnson. The crowd was gushing, people weeping openly.
The film had made a fair fist of painting Kelly as an over-competitive dickhead but this display of male vulnerability was melting the hardest hearts. Kelly’s last lap will be as much about these public unburdenings of emotion as it will be about surfing.
Kelly and his crew ran a straight edge campaign and avoided the excesses of a Tour where dark spaces lured other damaged youth into toxic drug culture. The ghost of Shane Herring haunted the film. The arc of redemption from rags to riches is an American tale but the Australian experience was as much a mirror image with a darker outcome. Lost boys who did not find healing in their tribe.
Certain things are dissected forensically. The famous 1995 Pipeline High Five, for example.
A view is presented that Kelly somehow orchestrated it to throw Machado for the rest of the heat. Kelly claims it as an organic display of joy. Having witnessed it from the beach, ripped to the tits on LSD, I side with Kelly.
The whole heat was so surreal, so perfect; it would be inhuman not to try and wrest a high point and commit it to posterity. Which is what happened. Kelly the preternatural showman created more of these unforgettable high points than any pro surfer in history.
Other things are left out.
The film is scrubbed clean of sex, drugs, Australians. That surgical insularity aims the film squarely at a mainstream American audience but leaves more questions than answers for global viewers.
Kelly and his crew ran a straight-edge campaign and avoided the excesses of a Tour where dark spaces lured other damaged youth into toxic drug culture. The ghost of Shane Herring haunted the film. The arc of redemption from rags to riches is an American tale but the Australian experience was as much a mirror image with a darker outcome.
Lost boys who did not find healing in their tribe.
I couldn’t help but try and calculate the influence of the Momentum Generation while watching Bells. Kelly’s quarter-final with Ryan Callinan was being watched live by a global audience of around six thousand, maybe a few thousand on the beach watching live.
The era officially ended in 1998, less than a decade after it began, with Kelly’s sixth world title and subsequent retirement. The high-water mark of American pro surfing rolled back from there and twenty-one years later, the American coastal market has not been able to sustain a single CT event.
Only Kelly’s own creation remains. For now, at least.
As far as pure influence on the surfing culture, both Andrew Kidman’s and Jon Frank’s 1995 rebuttal to shopping mall punk and ADHD editing, Litmus, as well as Tom Curren’s post-tour wanderings in the Search movies seem more enduring.
The blowback was stronger than the movement. Only Kelly’s Pipeline surfing from that era seems destined to ring through eternity.
To be fair, and accurate, each member of the Momentum Generation did step up and achieve something close to their full potential. Ross now coaches the heir to Kelly’s throne, John John Florence.
Dorian became the greatest big wave rider of his and any era.
Machado has continued to invent and reinvent a marketable persona and stay stoked.
Taylor Steele was the last man standing to sell a squillion DVD’s and so on.
Kelly’s Third Act, taking control of the waves, may yet prove to be the defining move into the mainstream that twenty-seven years of pro surfing mastery could never provide.
Friends heal and make whole, that is the message of the Momentum Generation, but in the final analysis a father-sized hole in his psyche can never be filled.
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Be a good toaster ,now pop up and pop off .
https://www.youtube.com/wat…
Well Occy’s dad only saw one contest, didn’t he? Something like that.
The bullet point summaries at the end are a bit OTT.
Machado did come second in the world but post that, he is basically the US version of Rastovich. Which is cool (and I love the way he surfs) but not exactly on a tangent that is equal to Slater.
Ross Williams became a successful surf coach (of which there are precisely two) but fuck, that’s scraping the barrel when you compare to mainstream sports.
Way too big a call on Dorian.
Taylor Steele was in the right place at the right time. And listened to Pennywise. Probably the last man to make surf movies that sold, but that’s just a matter of being there before the internet hit. Good luck to the guy but how does he compare to Bruce Brown or Alby Falzon?
What you’re only just figuring out now that Slater is an Egomaniac, petrified of losing the warm glow of the Spotlight?
LT remains the reigning King of surf journalism. He puts the real back into keeping it real, and somehow does it again and again
I’ just use a really long bigwave leggy attached to my groms backpack.
Haven’t lost him.
We felt the same when Cartwheel Bob died.
He was like the father I never would have wanted.
Hahahaha, showing ya’ heritage there. Me too, I guess.
I also thought that was strange. That someone could be so deeply affected by the lack of a father figure only to return the favor with his own daughter. But then again world titles aren’t gunna win themselves
my dad didn’t surf and never pretended to understand it. he never saw any of my wins yet he was there for every heat.
Haha, classic!
Ya shoulda told him, least points wins.
Scotty they are blessed to have you as a coach and a dad . This is kind of why I waited till 45 before even of thinking of settling down , got all my serious surfing and partying out of my system and was prepared to put others in my life ahead of my own egotistical desires , fuck I even gave up smoking a packet a day overnight so I could hang around long enough to support them , not monetarily , mum does that , but to be there for as long as I can , for as long as they might need me .
Yeah right.
Probly settled down cause of hair loss otherwise youd still be like Drek.
Yep ,stopped dating 20 year old students and found myself a real woman ! Less Hair , Yeah Yeah !
Miss them but
I don’t miss the hair ! Too many Miss Takes took its toll .
Yeah ,see they could still pull me.
At the end of the day which is now
All surfers are just slightly more highly evolved bogans.
And anyone who’s says they are not are faking it.
Huge Haleiwa is Texas Chainsaw Massacre level horror.
DeAth by RighT hAnd RIP bOwl .
I liked how the rip pulls you right into ground zero for the big sets.
I had a legitimate thought I was dead saw the white light drowning incident there one afternoon
Not sure if I’m proud of this but…. Squiddy kind of rescued me there back when he had one of the only jet ski’s on n shore.
Massive day I should have never gone out late afternoon. Lost board and was drifting toward south shore Kauai quick. He scooped me with a smile I was sooo happy.
Kerry Packer said there was fukin nuthin.
Full hoax.
Cheese slowed down to pick me up hitchhiking once in early 90’s then kept going. I was no longer a fan after that.
Tired of walking , cheese can act / smell like evil but taste like god ? You are stronger for being tired of waiting ( for a ride ) ,tired of winning ?
Are you on drugs mate?
No I was just , tired of being lucid . All good .
It was clear to me after this film that Benji Weatherly is the only person of the momentum generation I would have wanted to be friends with. He was always genuine and what he did for Todd’s mom after he passed was beautiful. All the others were wrapped up in ego and competition and Benji just wanted to have fun. From dorians camera pucker face to machados competition to become the worlds best surfer who pretends not to care and Slater standing in the shadow of his own ego all of these men seemed unlikeable to me. And then their was Benji just a man struggling with learning how to cope with life trying to be the best friend to everyone that he could be.
Here’s some unseen footage of kelly when he had hair graduating from college
https://m.youtube.com/watch…
My Dad watched every game and went to every event that my siblings were involved in , except the surfing , though he did see a few heats and even apologized 20 years later for not being more involved .He is still out every weekend cheering on his many grand kids at 82 .Now none of us has been or will ever be the GOAT but we never had to utter the famous lines that I hear at playgrounds all over the world in many languages “ Hey Hey Mr , LOOK AT ME ! “ .
As in, can you look cause I don’t have a dad?
BINGO ! Or the dad or mum is there but besotted by the smart phone !
Did you know that if you pull out it is a 100percent fail safe contraception methid
Yep I know people will strongly disagree but it is a medical fact.
And much better than making you’re gal take those breast cancer pills.
Chinese birth control!
See that’s the thing
Asian dudes think if they don’t fill it up they are not real men.
And it’s a waste of a good line of Rhino horn.
LT, you hit it on the head with the American market not being able to sustain a single CT event. Seems like an absolute shit decision from a business perspective that they would think that Wavepools will carry CT events, the whole overhead calc must be so much higher than the ocean, especially with states like Florida giving tons of money to run them, oops that game is over I think.
I really used to think a lot of kelly
But now not as much
I think it might be your fault not his
I would never watch a film like that.
Cause I don’t wanna know what makes him cry, I don’t care who they are or what they do, I only care about em when they’re entertaining me.
Unless your a rock star
Then I’m all ears.
.
jesus
Dorian’s big waves dont count compared to the original big wave riders because he wears a life vest.
Shane is no Darrick Doerner or Roger Erickson or Buzzy Trent etc. etc.
Outer reef with no leash and single fin and no jet skis is something I dont see Shane doing
Kai Lenny had a look at Dorians efforts, wiped his arse with it and flushed it down the shitter.
Seriously though, I’m scared of anything over head high. Vest or not
Ur scared of trees?
I live in a desert, so yes
What’s your Camels name?
Geoff Goulden
Solid!
Bullshit. Dorian did that at Himalayas in late eighties when he was 17 living in a closet on n shore.
Sounds chilly!
Meditation retreat?
when did he come out of the closet?
“narrative capital” might be two of the greatest words ever put together in a review article. Perfectly placed. It’s almost as if a writer could be hired, PayPal payment confirmed, lucid-ishly loose “narrative capital” and drop the wireless keyboard, and lazily stroll away towards his planned smile maker ways of a great day.
Great read longtom. None better than.
Freshwater Pro would be most complete with a lemonade stand and roadside petting zoo with miniature goats.
Agree. Cerebral stuff, but watered down enough to let us enjoy the ride. Chas and Derek, whatever you’re paying this guy, it’s not enough. At all. By the way, how’s this for narcissism? Chas has someone putting signs up to “surf like Chas,” in bold letters right at Off the Wall no less.
https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
Ha!
Now there’s a story
Except that’s Rockies and the Chas in question met a sad end after a spluttering second go around as a surfer. The maw of drugs was inescapable.
Awesome review. Made me feel like I learned everything about something I previously knew nothing about (since I was living in the jungle in 1990s and all I knew about Kelly was reading Neil Ridgeway’s brilliant Tracks article about 1995 Pipe Masters, cutting out photo of Kelly doing perfect yet incomprehensible bottom turn in the pit at Pipe and a nine shot wave sequence at Gnaraloo, again not comprehending his lines. However, later, after I left the jungle, I learned it was simply the rocker in the new boards, when I rode my 1st left in 10 years on a GTS (Garry Taylor Special) and easily made a takeoff that my memory assumed would be difficult. I felt exactly the same as Kelly in that photo; as the board slipped into & hugged the bottom of the pit. It was the surfboards! It was all a hoax!). Also, classic daddy is Long Tom.
Where and what were you doing in the jungle Nick?
https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
A real Bundle in the Jungle … A Thriller on a Bill Cilia …. Nirvana meets Neanderthal…