"If he had a wheelchair he'd still get out there and take off. He's nuts," says big-wave chasing filmer.
Last Wednesday, a troupe of big-wavers, which included the Australian Justen “Jughead” Allport and nine-time bodyboarding world champion Mike Stewart, threw ’emselves at a ten-to-fifteen-foot swell hitting Shipstern Bluff in Tasmania.
The action was to be captured as part of a new reality TV series called Swell Chasers, and created by the noted filmmaker Tim Bonython.
“The place turned on, that’s for sure,” says Bonython. “There were twenty-foot bombs. And Judghead, he’s a hellman. He proved it, literally. He’s a crazy motherfucker, as they say. Fuck, it doesn’t matter what happens, if he had a wheelchair he’d still get out there and take off. He’s nuts but that’s what makes him unique. It’s why we love him.”
Bonython says a wipeout in his first session sent Jug back to the support boat, bleeding from the mouth and complaining of a terrible stiffness in his back.
“He got a twenty-footer straight off the bat, then a fifteen-footer and he fucking got annihilated,” says Bonython.
After an hour-and-a-half on the boat, Jug wanted more.
“And he jumped off the boat, paddled into the line-up by himself, got a bomb and fucking got pitched.”
As Jug, who works as a firefighter, recalls from his bed at Gosford hospital, tubes stuffed into the cavity between his lung and chest to drain the blood and wearing a neck brace, “I was watching from the boat and it looked like it was getting better and I thought, ‘I’m not going to be here tomorrow.’ You can’t go all that one way for one surf. ”
Jug, who is forty-five, says his fingers were freezing which made it difficult to paddle his six-four quad-fin Wizstix with any great speed, but he kept telling himself, keep it together, just paddle hard and get one.
“So I saw this and I knew it was going to be a good one. It had a ledge that lets you in. I put my head down, paddled hard, told myself, ‘Even when you think you’re on it, take three extra strokes’, but then the wind got under me and I was held in the lip and free-fell. I got to my feet…just.”
He was sent over the falls, could’t pin drop ’cause the wind had hit him off-axis and got washed over the rocks.
The surfer Kip Caddy and Mike Stewart came with the ski.
“I knew I had done some serious damage,” says Jug.
Still, he had to get back to base via a ninety-minute boat ride through four-foot chop while laying on a stash of board bags.
Jug ain’t one for histrionics so he didn’t go to the doc that night. Instead, he suffered, alone, in bed.
“It took me four hours to move position, to get the courage to put myself through the pain to get up, to get my brain to say, you can get through the pain.”
The next morning he flew home to NSW’s Central Coast via Sydney.
He took his kid to school, walked into hospital, was x-rayed, (busted T11 vertebrae), and admitted immediately.
“The doctor says he could’ve died easily on the flight with the blood in the collapsed lung,” says Bonython.
When I call, I make a joke.
Through his busted lungs, and with breathless speech due to his one-functioning airbag and seven broken ribs, he wheezes,
“I’m trying not to laugh.”
Jug added that he may take a few days off from work while he recovers.



Seems he wants glory for lacking the preservation gene and bragging rights for getting hurt. Hanging out with him sounds like having tea with captain caveman. But hey, great job 👍👊🏻👏get back on the horse and finish the job next time.
Pic on swellnet.com of the whole”crew” hamming it up together throwing shakas at the airport so looks like a “strike mission” gone wrong, Tim is renown for rocking up with a bunch of surfers who want to be photographed, had a number of sessions ruined by him and entourage over the years
enough with the “he has kids now, shouldnt be charging”. what a bunch of limp-wristed twats. got kids too, and ive been pushing it even harder. this guy is 45 and still throws it over the ledge. role model in my opinion
Gnarly spot
Gnarly surfer!
On a 6’4”!!
I have no idea but how it actually happened in this case, but I feel as though you’re being rhetorical when you ask “did Justen just happen to bump into the Bonython crew at the airport and tag along”.
This is exactly how it happens as Shippies (and probably a lot of other surf spots). There’s only a few flights coming in per day (compared to other capital cities), and everyone is flying in the day before the swell on the same flights so it’s a fairly high likelihood that they’ll bump in to each other at the airport (most likely while picking up board bags from oversized, if not before then), query each other, share hire cars, hang out, beg each other to get them a spot on a boat, etc. Even more so considering that Marti Paradisis works at the airport and is many people’s first point of contact on their way south.
So while I agree with you that duty of care is an important consideration and has probably been overlooked here, there’s every chance that Jughead had nothing at all to do with the production.
This guy is a firefighter yet apparently doesn’t know enough about injuries / trauma / etc to go get himself checked out? Instead tries to sleep it off ?? And his mates don’t suggest it? Dang, surfers are stupid. Some things never change.
That’s why so many surfers enjoy small user friendly A frames.
Come in 2 hours later injury free.
Shipsterns- no thanks.
Yo – anybody remember 2005?,2004? This guy charged ghost tree and snapped is leg real bad tow surfing only hours after getting off a plane to S.F.! Heal fast!
I don’t know any of the details, sb.
It would be good to find out but I ain’t holding my breath …
Greed will always find a way to manifest.
Silicon Valley techbros are the biggest investors. Opium for the masses, except it’s the other ancient flower.
Don’t know if it’s true or not, but want to believe. Heard there’s a guy on anti-vax site/communities giving advice like “I had a fever for four days and ‘doctor drugs’ weren’t doing anything, so I smeared my chest in dijon mustard with a tincture of lavender oil and was fine the next day”. He is getting positive responses in the comments…
What hope for humanity?
Getting busted up and recovery is no fun….I know this for a fact.
Some people don’t recover from being stupid….🌊😎🌊
https://m.youtube.com/watch…
Not sure if I could work out the relevance of this clip, but I love the ‘no fucks given’ wardrobe, hair and make up approach of Mr Knopfler, M.
Did you listen to the lyrics?
Relevance is clear.
oh yeah, “gamblin’ with his life” etc
With all the injuries he has sustained over the years, how the heck does he still work as a firefighter? And he gets these injuries surfing, so it’s not like he gets worker’s comp. Though my guess is that in OZ with socialized medicine my points are moot.
His medical costs would be covered by Medicare and/or his private health insurance if he’s got it [and that could be a requirement or benefit of his job].
His ongoing wages would be paid from his “sick leave” entitlements, so long as he’s not burned through them. His rehab back to his normal duties would be overseen by a Rehabilitation Provider paid for by his employer.
Definitely no “Worker’s Comp” entitlements, though had he been surfing in a work sanctioned event then that would kick in.
So he’d be pretty covered. An injury like this is less of an existential threat in Australia than what it sounds like it might be in the USA..
…and, if this “New Reality TV Series” is legit and he was part of it, they would have had him sign a contract that covers their arses. Testing that legally is not my area, but I’d guess the production company would have it pretty watertight.
One of my favorite joints all time. Flow is effortless and the beat is timeless.
When did liability insurance matter to anyone? Y’all can have the site but don’t bag a “ Real MAN” cuz your scared to charge
‘a real man’ makes sure he stays around long enough to bring up his kids, big wave daves are fucking selfish pricks sometimes. ‘oh but he died doing what he loved’ oh yeh good one self absorbed fuckheads.
I was inspired by the wellness article and thought some of the trends were a bit sexist so did the vaginal steaming thing on The Old Chap and shoved some jade eggs up my arse.
Now can’t walk. Dick looks like Kimchi. Homeopathic remedies haven’t helped. A spot of yoga just made things worse.
Got insta-banned on Instagram when trying to share my lifestyle experiences.
Can someone please call me a taxi to the hospital?
is Bonython a sociopath?
Some good points there SB – only thing is, I bet Jug was there just for the hell of it. Paid his own way.
No corpo directive. No script. This all falls into “news” not doco …
Just saying.
But yea, Juggy – your kids bro …
Noone took him to a doctor,
Buncha fukwits
Totally.
And 45, fireman, 4 kids… Couldn’t take himself to the ER?
Wtf is that
good onya Noone, that guys a ledge.
Surfed da barrel yesterday and got clipped. Held down for what felt like an eternity. Like about four seconds or so. Waves of consequence on the Sunshine Coast brah
Were a few tasty ones about eh? Nearly snapped my knees recovering from a foam bounce. Be careful out there.
Yeah was some good, fun, small waves about Friday morning. Good for this time of year around here anyway. Have heard Longtom’s part of the world has been firing