Men, always men, who come into the lives of great
surfers offering success, happiness, friendship and just a little
fairy dust…
It really is difficult to release grip on a fabulous
story. Elo Logan’s masterful touch on the
documentary Sound Waves: Kelly Slater, Surf Ranch has
inspired stories, here,
here,
here and
we’ll deliberate on it again, below.
The subject today is surfing’s Svengalis, men, always men, who
come into the lives of great surfers offering success, happiness,
friendship and just a little fairy dust.
I wondered aloud to Matt
Warshaw, custodian of surfing’s historical
archive and which you can subscribe to
and access here, if he’d seen the Slater ep
and if he would take time out of his busy Scrabble schedule to give
BeachGrit readers an insight into the magical world of the
Surf Svengali.
BeachGrit: I’m guessing you saw Sound Waves: Kelly
Slater, Surf Ranch, where Kelly, beset by insecurities and an
apparent unhappiness, is attended to by an Australian faith
healer.
Warshaw: I watched it the day it came out, and twice since. It’s
almost druggy. Like MDMA, but the opposite, where everything, every
exchange, every moment bends toward low-grade stress and tension.
That scene at the beginning where Kelly’s watching somebody surf a
left and says “Who’s that?” Zeke Lau says “Kaipo,” and Kelly says
“I hope he’s super nervous,” then they both force a laugh, then
Strider walks by and the mirthless banter continues. On it goes.
The scenes with Kelly and his girlfriend, that awkward backstage
moment with Jack White, and yes especially the bits with Kelly and
the spoon-bender — there isn’t a relaxed frame in the whole thing.
At some level I’m super impressed that WSL put it out there. It
feels incredibly fifth column. It’s like if Wild Wild Country was
released as a promo for Rajneesh.
But back to Charlie Goldsmith, named onscreen as
“Kelly’s Friend.” It reminds me that pro surfers, in particular it
seems, perhaps because of the arbitrary nature of how success for
‘em is measured, heat by heat, every wave out of ten, are
susceptible to, how should we call ‘em, Svengalis? Is that your
take?
I don’t know. Probably not. All athletes at that level, I’m
guessing, are looking for any kind of edge or advantage they can
find, mental and physical. Kelly has Goldsmith, Italo has God. If
putting your faith in some person or entity gives you peace of
mind, relaxes you, distracts from the pressure, then it works.
Goldsmith laying that New Age hoodoo on Kelly makes more sense than
his girlfriend telling him again and again to “have fun.”
My fav moment involving a surfer and his Svengali is
Cheyne Horan’s pal and mentor, name of Kerry, in the vastly
underrated movie Scream in Blue. He paces up and down
their Burleigh Heads apartment after a bad heat at the Stubbies
saying, “You weren’t doing any snaps! Why weren’t you doing any
snaps? You have to do more snaps!” Do you remember that fabulous
moment? What was Cheyne’s deal?
Scream in Blue was my greatest VHS treasure. A few
years ago I plugged my ancient VCR into my MacBook to digitize
everything I have, and the fucking machine ate Scream in
Blue. I felt like Strider getting laughingly kicked in the
nuts by Kelly. I’d kill for another copy. But yes, I remember
the scene you’re describing well! That same year, I think it was
1987, I flew Matt George to
Australia to do a profile on Cheyne, and Matt fully embedded
himself in the Kerry-led commune up in the hills behind
Byron. Yeah, there are similarities between what Kelly
is looking for with Charlie, and what Cheyne was looking for with
Kerry. Guidance, I guess. Maybe a short-cut to knowledge. But
Kelly, by the looks of it, is just flirting with his guru; he’s
halfway to looking at the camera and giving us an eye-roll. Cheyne
went all in, just drank the Kerry Kool-Aid by the gallon. Cheyne’s
deal with Kerry, to me anyway, looked almost dangerous, like
brainwashing. I wonder what ended up happening there. At some point
Cheyne broke away, but I don’t know when.
Another great mentor is the surf photographer Paul
Sargeant, also called Sarge, who disappeared in a poof of smoke
after allegations of sexual assault on a popular surf journalist,
and which was sensationally brought to light by the writer Fred
Pawle in Stab. (Read The Bottomless Vortex of
Indugence here and subscribe to
Sarge’s new YouTube channel here.) For a
very long time, almost every young Australian surfer rode under his
LMB banner, an abbreviation of various things, but initially,
Lick My Balls.
I don’t know much about Sarge except what I read in Fred’s
article.
Oh you dirty diplomat. How about Derek Hynd? Rip Curl
coach for a lot of years, but some Svengali in there too,
maybe?
For sure. I mean, you can’t put young and not especially
educated surfers on tour, with that kind of pressure, and not have
them grab onto an older, more experienced person. There’d be plenty
of cases, a huge majority in fact, where it works out fine. The
older surfer advising and looking out for the younger guys. But it
can get weird and maybe even abusive, and now and then the rest of
us hear about it. I interviewed Sunny Garcia a few years ago, and
he said Derek “was a dick to everyone” and talked about how Derek
would lock him out of his room and make him sleep in the hotel
hallway. All in the name of getting Sunny to do better in heats. On
the other hand, Sunny said it worked. On the other other hand,
Sunny probably wasn’t the best person to argue the case one way or
the other.
You’re the gatekeeper to surf history. Who else is
there? We talked about Thor Svenson before. He was a
wildcat.
In the 1960s, Thor made the Windansea Surf Club into a really
big deal, almost completely on his own. Huge ambition. Got things
done. Ronald Regan, when he was governor of California, gave
Svenson and WIndansea a letter of introduction when the team flew
off to Australia in 1967. Thor is another guy I only know about
from articles, but there was always a creepy vibe around him, and
after I posted about Windansea I got a few replies from surfers in
Australia that were disturbing — nothing I was able to track down,
although I didn’t try very hard.
What is most interesting about surf’s Svengalis is how
few of ’em actually pick up a surfboard. What’s the attraction to
be around gorgeous young men at the peak of their physical prowess
you think?
I’ll check that one to the guy who founded a “sophisticated
men’s interest magazine with an emphasis on high-performance
surfing.” 😀