Update: Surfer hit by fifteen-foot Great
White in Santa Rosa Island attack!
By Derek Rielly
Saved by surf leash tourniquets expertly applied by
pal…
Earlier today, reports from Santa Barbara that a surfer
had been choppered into a local hospital after being hit by a
shark while surfing on Santa Rosa Island.
Now, according to the other surfer in the water, Jeremy Howard,
the surfer’s name is Adam
Coons, the shark was a fifteen-foot Great White, not
altogether uncommon in these parts, and after Coons made it back to
his boat Howard used surf leashes as tourniquets.
Feels like everywhere I look I’m reading, hearing about how
important it is, more than CPR even, to know how to stop blood flow
from a major wound.
Two weeks ago, it was the surfing doc Jon Cohen and his classes
on how to use tourniquets after a shark attack.
According to Cohen, if you can get the de-limbed person to the
beach and apply a tourniquet above the wound so no blood can spurt
out the hole you’re good.
Last night it was a book about the war photographer Tim
Hetherington, who would’ve survived mortar shrapnel in his thigh if
his buddy knew how to staunch the blood flow.
Longtom on historical revisionists: “No
Asterisk for Italo Ferreira’s World Title!”
By Longtom
There will be nowhere for John Florence to hide a
dicky knee on a Tour with Italo Ferreira as World Number One.
Just before the dust fully settles on Italo’s maiden
Title we need to do a little mopping up, run the tape over it and
get the full measure of his achievement, for a simple
reason which is: just about halfway through the Tour the best guy
(as measured by the rankings at the time) was knocked out by
injury.
That led to a lot of talk that whoever won the World Title would
forever have an asterisk next to their name and while that talk has
subsided I think it’s necessary we take up arms and make the
pre-emptive strike against any would be historical revisionists who
might emerge in the future.
Just to make sure facts get out in front of any hurt
feelings.
First up, Italo has always been “our guy” here at BG. We were
first to lament loud and strong when judges underpaid his surfing,
especially at J-Bay 2017. I think the first potential World
Champion call was made here after his ten-point ride at Snapper
2016.
Second, lets take a comp by comp year in review look at Italo’s
year to completely eliminate the asterisk possibility.
Snapper. Best guy in the comp by a
country mile. Changed the parameters for aerial
surfing in heats. Smashed the Redbull Airborne comp then kept the
same flow going in the CT comp. The total focus on airs wasn’t too
everyones taste but the demolition job he put on Ricardo Cristie in
the round of thirty-two was the most insane aerial surfing I’ve
ever seen live or broadcast, and he did it with a rashie on. Would
win, or will win, 99 out of a 100 comps in warm water beachbreak
peaks. No-one else close.
Bells Beach. Survived a near-death experience at the
Winkipop button and put solid surfing down in triple over-head
conditions that day and in his quarter-final against Jordy.
Cruelled by judges in one of the more ridiculous priority decisions
of the year. Not quite up to the standard of either Medina or
Florence on the either the big stormy or big clean days but still
deserved to final.
Keramas. The 2018 defending champ had his worst result
of the year here. Heavily braced ankle seemed to distort his
performance in his most disappointing heat of the year against Jack
Freestone in a sub-five point heat total loss in the round of
thirty-two.
Margaret River. Rode arguably the best wave of the Tour
year with his opening ride at the Box. Almost unbelievably
low-balled as an 8.17. Very solid but still flamboyant backside
turn game in windy, overhead Mainbreak. Well beaten in the quarters
by eventual winner John Florence with a score that would have won
any other quarter-final.
Rio Pro. Inexplicably poor performance in sizey,
jumbled onshore lefts at Saquarema. Well beaten by occasional
giant-killing journeyman Fred Morais in the round of thirty-two.
Toledo dominant, JJF injured in a flyaway kick-out.
J-Bay. Second best surfer in the event after Gabriel
Medina. Huge, vertical turns and insane finishes over the bricks.
World Title-winning heat against Filipe Toledo in their semi-final
in windy, unruly six-to-eight-foot Supertubes. Looked a likely
winner but only stopped by a rampaging Gabe Medina in the final.
Arguably the best final of the Year. Could he have beaten JJF at
big J-Bay? On that form, yes.
Teahupoo. It’s not often an early round loss has
positive implications as a crucial World Title heat but Italo’s
round of thirty-two loss to Adriano de Souza in ten-foot Chopes
fits into that rarest of categories. Incredible, late under the lip
drops and tube drives. Showed the Box wave was no fluke and laid a
template for confidence and competence in all the heavy water waves
on Tour, Pipe especially.
Replaying the tape, it was a heat that could have gone either
way but I think crucial underscores on Italo’s waves meant judges
got the result wrong way around. My favourite Italo heat for the
year.
Freshwater Pro. Shame we didn’t see a head-to-head
between Italo and John John at the Surf Ranch, where they both have
clear deficiencies at a venue owned by Medina. It’s hard to discern
exactly what coaches do in their modern incarnations but anyone
advising Italo has a clear path for improvement available on the
lefts at the basin.
The numbers are terrible. Medina’s top three lefts average out
at 8.99. Italo’s top three lefts average out at a flat five. With
the tub back on Tour he needs to find a way to ride that left.
But then, so does John John.
France. Italo surfed almost the perfect European leg.
Just about the finest beachbreak scavenger on Tour. Able to pack
French closeouts all day long in search of elusive corners. Switch
from tube to turns and back again. Finalist and runner-up to Flores
who was on a dream run that could not be denied. Slipstreamed him
perfectly.
Portugal. Dominant end-to-end performance. Cemented his
position as the world’s best aerialist with an opening ten-point
ride in the final against a hapless Jordy Smith. Switched
effortlessly from backside high hooks to airs. Chewed through Fred
Morais, Connor Coffin, Jack Freestone, Caio Ibelli, then Jordy and
looked like he could have taken on every single CT surfer in the 34
as well.
Pipeline. Winning started early. Showing up and blowing
up well before the circus arrived. Stroke of tactical genius
appointing both Jamie O’Brien and Shane Dorian as corner men.
Despite the hyper-active approach always looked mentally cool and
in control. Sublimated huge pressure into ascending performances,
culminating in a dominant finals win against Medina, who had just
comboed Florence in their semi-final. Could have been ten points
rides in there if he made two waves, which shows lots of head-room
still available for future Pipe Mastery.
Conclusion: No asterisk required.
Future World Titles? Why not.
Mastery at every venue besides the Tub, holds an insane winning
record against the second best in the World. There will be nowhere
for John Florence to hide a dicky knee on a Tour with Italo
Ferreira as World Number One.
Any asterisk creeps out there? Speak now or forever hold your
peace.
And the rest of you right-minded folks: What was your highlight
Italo moment(s) for the year?
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From the wire: Surfer attacked by shark at
Santa Rosa Island, California!
By Derek Rielly
"A truly terrifying situation."
A thirty-seven-year-old surfer was hit by a shark,
Saturday afternoon, while surfing the north shore of Santa Rosa
Island, forty clicks from Dane Reynolds’ backyard in
Carpinteria.
The as-yet-unnamed man was with a friend when the shark hit,
biting him on the leg.
Coast Guard officials dispatched a helicopter
from their base at Point Mugu and a boat carrying a
paramedic from the Coast Guard station at Channel Islands
Harbor.
The helicopter arrived about an hour later
and flew the victim to the Santa Barbara Airport, and he was
taken via ambulance to Cottage Hospital. The victim was in stable
condition with a tourniquet on his leg, according to the Ventura
County Fire Department.
Ventura County firefighters initially
responded to the scene by boat, but the victim was airlifted by a
Coast Guard helicopter before they arrived, authorities
said.
Lieutenant Benjamin McIntyre-Gibb, the Coast Guard community
duty officer said in a statement: “This was the best possible
outcome to a truly terrifying situation. This individual was
fortunate to be with a buddy who was able to communicate their
position to the Coast Guard.”
If you’ve ever been to Santa Babs, you might’ve stared at the
Channel Islands out there on the horizon, these inconvenient land
masses that block all the summer south swells.
Santa Rosa is the second biggest. Plenty waves, too, if you like
’em uncrowded.
No word on the type of shark involved in the attack.
Fact: Every fatal shark hit in California since
1981 has been from a Great White.
Coast Guard helicopter crew from Air Station
San Francisco FOB Mugu medevacs shark bite victim to saftey and
transports him to Santa Barbara Airport where EMTs awaited.
pic.twitter.com/zyDewiQWpU
New York Times, CNN et. al. lament “World’s
greatest surfer misses Olympic cut…” but there is a bold way for
Kelly Slater to compete in Tokyo 2020!
By Chas Smith
Syria calling!
While I am very certain there was much joy in
John John Florence’s camp at his punching one of the two tickets to
this summer’s Olympic Games in Tokyo, the world’s largest media
organizations only had teary headlines.
And while the lack of exclamation mark in each is unsettling,
the point is clear. People wanted to see the greatest of all time
competing in surfing’s Olympic debut.
Yet there is still a bold and beautiful way forward. An
opportunity for Kelly Slater to not only punch his own ticket but
possibly bring peace to the Middle East.
As floated here
five months ago, on my birthday coincidentally, Kelly
Slater is of Syrian descent and would no doubt be embraced by the
war weary Arab Republic.
Just imagine how much joy it would bring, how much wonderful
warm joy, for Kelly to take an entire nation on his shoulders. To
carry the hopes and dreams of children from Damascus to Homs,
Latakia to Aleppo. A storyline so moving not even the World Surf
League’s Office of Content, Media, Studios could botch.
Now, it might be argued that Slater’s surfing for Syria would
further legitimize an evil dictator but Bashar al-Assad ain’t so
bad, just a doe-eye’d ophthalmologist from London thrust into a
tough spot. Just doing what he can to get by. Having Kelly Slater,
and Kelly Slater’s
energy healer Charlie Goldsmith, in the room would
certainly help him make better decisions or at least be happier
with the decisions he is making. To live in the moment, enjoy his
accomplishments etc.
What is impossible to deny is the unifying power a Kelly Slater
for Syria Olympic run would have. Government and anti-government
forces would gather together in coffee shops and clasp hands as
Slater dispatched surfers from Australia, France, Brazil. Kurds
would forget their many and varied beefs while holding their
breaths alongside Syrian Turkmen.
Kelly Slater’s ability to captivate would even overwhelm the
most hardened ISIS man for it is impossible not to be swept
away.
Would peace in the Middle East be a stretch too far?
Well, who could have ever imagined that a 47-year-old from Cocoa
Beach, Florida, by way of Syria, would still have the sweetest
carving 360 in the game.
More as the story develops.
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Savage: 16-foot Great White shark tries to
“pressure cook and tenderize” unsuspecting vacationer by dragging
him out into the deep sea!
By Chas Smith
A terrifying culinary twist.
And how would you feel if you had to eat
similarly prepared meats day in and day out? A squirmy, struggly,
slimy pesce crudo, foca crudo, delfino
crudo, umano crudo? I think bored. I think as bored
as the savagely hungry Great White shark must feel.
Chase, bite, squirm, squiggle, eat, yawn.
Well, in a horrifying new twist, it appears as if the
ever-evolving beasts are experimenting with new culinary techniques
in order to keep things interesting, as it were.
Namely, pressure cooking.
You are, of course, aware of the method popularized in 1666
France wherein steam is increased, without release, inside a pot
thereby forcing liquid into meat and tenderizing it.
Now, the vicious Great White has not yet learned how to use pots
but has all the pressure he needs there in his deep blue domain and
it can only be assumed that a 16-foot Cape Town monster was
attempting to utilize its esculent power when dragging an
unsuspecting vacationer out into it but let’s not speculate. Let’s
read directly from the soon-to-be-Brexited Mirror:
A holidaymaker had a lucky but terrifying escape after he
was dragged out towards the deep sea by a great white
shark.
Theodore Prinsloo, 47, was spear fishing on the coast of
South Africa when he caught a 9kg musselcracker fish for the family
barbecue.
He tethered his catch to a flotation buoy attached to his
belt by a line, but before he could bring it in it was snatched by
the 16ft predator.
As the shark swam off with Mr Prinsloo’s catch, it began
dragging him out to sea for about 160ft and appeared to pull him
under the surface as people on the beach looked on in
horror.
Rescuers raced to the scene at Salt River, a suburb of Cape
Town, but they found only the buoy and the head of the speared fish
about 650ft from shore.
Thankfully, Mr. Prinsloo was spared a gruesome finalé though,
I’m sure Michelin Guide approved, fate but his ordeal does beg the
question.
What piquant modé will the Great White dream up next?
Best not to surf in, or around, South Africa until we
answer.