Two-time Champ Gabriel Medina and Zeke Lau
lead surfer tributes to NBA God Kobe Bryant (1978-2020)
By Derek Rielly
"You have inspired me to be the best athlete I can
be."
In the gloomy mountains above Calabasas in LA’s San
Fernando Valley this morning, NBA god Kobe Bryant, his kid
and three others were killed when his $13-million helicopter
crashed around ten am.
Kobe was one of the greatest NBA players of all time,
eighteen-times All Star, five championships, although his career
stalled, ever so briefly, in 2003, when he
was accused of rape, a
case settled out of court etc.
Surfers including Gabriel Medina, Zeke Lau, Jadson Andre as well
as the WSL have posted tributes to Bryant.
Superstar athletes killed in their own birds ain’t nothing
new.
Rally car champ Col McRae and his kids died when his chopper
went down in 2007; Daytona 500 champ Davey Allison died when
his three-week-old bird ate it while parking in 1993.
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Question: What lineup punishment should be
meted out to future users of the just-developed “electronic surf
fin?”
By Chas Smith
This internet meeting is adjourned.
We surfers, we real surfers, were all asleep that
decade or two ago when Laird Hamilton swept his way into the
suspect hearts of those dreaming of an “alternative” to wave
riding. Before we knew it there was one then three then eight
stand-up paddleboarders milling about the lineup, stroking into
waves, sending their canoes rolling through our skulls.
Asleep or shellshocked but no excuses. We should have called an
internet meeting and decided what punishment the SUP deserved and
likely punished them out of the lineup or at least corralled them
in Manhattan Beach.
In any case, let’s not make the same mistake again. Let’s call
an internet meeting to order and decide how deal with future users
of the just-developed electronic surf fin (handicapped folk
excluded).
Certainly you’ve seen it by now, advertised in Surfer
magazine, raising $250,000 on KickStarter, on Mashable.
“Catch all the waves… no more upper body strength needed
etc.”
So what should we do when we see our first?
How shall we react, strongly, as one and shame every
non-handicapped user away or at least to Manhattan Beach?
Ideas?
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Peak North Shore: Troublingly overweight
Ashton Goggans tells Yago Dora: “There were a few of those bottom
turns where you were looking like Gerry Lopez!”
By Chas Smith
Mr. Plate Lunch.
If there is one thing your BeachGrit does
better than anyone ever, besides stirring shark hysteria,
it is kicking a story to absolute death. Writing and writing and
writing and writing and writing and writing and writing about every
little angle, nuance, dull detail because…. why not?
Well, Red Bull’s latest Unfiltered, Unbiased, Behind-the-Scenes…
something of the Pipeline Masters approaches genius.
Derek Rielly
lovingly covered here but must have been distracted
because there is absolute gold, perfect shiny gold, in those 22
minutes.
Jon Pyzel quoting The Surfer’s Journal while
saying, “I didn’t finish the article…”
Strider Woz.
But my favorite moment, so far, is when an honest-to-goodness
100 lbs above slapping
weight and new brilliant face of professional surfing
Ashton Goggans sits down next to Yago Dora and says through beard
and weight, “There were a few of those bottom turns where you were
looking like Gerry Lopez.”
Watch here.
The “people were saying…” bit excluded like it should be/is
mentally in all “people are saying” occurrences.
Peak North Shore.
And I challenge you to find your favorite moment in the
clip.
Watch from start to finish.
You will not be disappointed.
Also, I have been re-watching America’s Top Model from the
inaugural season on and have re-remembered how dangerous weight
issues are and how they must be called out publicly.
It’s pure love. And deep care.
Serious worry.
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Watch: Hawaii’s leading news source
declares “Billy Kemper is not afraid of anything” after Big Wave
World Tour champ’s latest Jaws performance!
By Chas Smith
If you were literally fearless, what is the first
thing you'd do?
Climate change has been good to Hawaii, much to
Greta Thunberg’s chagrin, or at least good to Hawaii’s big wave
cowpeople. The men and women who bravely, boldly saddle up, as it
were, and ride giant, massive, terrifying beasts whilst dodging the
insidious cookie cutter shark.
An extraordinarily large swell hit Maui’s famed Peahi toward the
end of last week. Another is on its way and Hawaii’s leading news
source, Hawaii News
Now, is there covering all the action. Shall we read,
together, first hand?
Big-wave surfer Billy Kemper is not afraid of
anything.
That was especially the case after the four-time Jaws
champion took on enormous barrels at Peahi on Maui on
Thursday.
In an Instagram video, he described the experience as riding
the “wave of my life.”
https://www.instagram.com/p/B7sCgGVlN76/
Very scary but not to Billy Kemper who isn’t afraid of
anything.
Not waves nor flat tires on the freeway nor Coronavirus nor
period dramas nor Sense and Sensibility nor neighbors who eat PCP
nor an overheated economy spinning into massive inflation nor the
new aluminum tariff nor bed bugs biting nor six hour layovers nor
one lost AirPod nor anything.
If you were literally fearless, what is the first thing you’d
do?
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Apocalypse Now: In “historic first”
cookiecutter shark, featuring mouth “like toilet plunger with a
blade in it,” attacks three swimmers in Hawaii!
By Chas Smith
Is this the end?
Great White, Tiger and Bull sharks have haunted
surfers, swimmers and other assorted Hawaiians since the dawn of
time. Circling in those crystalline depths, stalking, biting,
“man-eating.” Terrors all but known terrors. All accounted for.
Well, in this, our current and ongoing “shark apocalypse,”
Hawaiians and Haole Blow-ins alike have a new worry featuring a
hungry mouth “like a toilet plunger with a blade in it” and a body
like a “lazy sausage.”
Yes, in a “historic first” the “man-plunging” cookie cutter
shark has attacked humans, latching on and attempting to suck,
suck, suck out the vitals.
Too fantastical to believe? Let the well respected science
website phys.org guide you into
awful truths.
In a historic first, the elusive, foot-long cookiecutter
shark was responsible for three of 2019’s attacks. All three bites
were on long-distance swimmers training in Hawaii’s Kaiwi Channel
at night.
The ISAF’s more-than 6,400 records only contain two other
accounts of unprovoked cookiecutter bites on live humans: one in
2009 in Hawaii’s Alenuihaha Channel and one in 2017 in North
Queensland, Australia.
The snub-nosed, cigar-shaped shark, often considered a
parasite, attaches to its prey with rubbery lips and uses its
robust muscles and circular jaw to extract a plug of flesh—”acting
like a toilet plunger with a blade in it,” Naylor said. It leaves
distinct, craterlike wounds on a wide range of marine life,
including tuna, seals, dolphins and even great white sharks, 10
times the cookiecutter’s size.
Not much is known about the cookiecutter shark, Naylor
said.
“They’re quite mysterious animals,” he said. “While they’re
found all over the world, we don’t know how many of them there are,
or how exactly they create this seemingly perfect circle. They can
look pretty pathetic, like a lazy sausage, but they can do a lot of
damage.”
And here I mistakenly thought that in this new decade, this
#metoo world, “pathetic, lazy sausages” that attacked, unprovoked,
had been shamed away.