Who among us could ignore the siren call of empty four-footers spinning down a down a tropical point like a mirage?
Yesterday, we celebrated the eighteenth most influential artist in history, David Carson’s solo session at Cane Garden Bay on the Caribbean island of Tortola.
As the joint bunkered down to fight the spread of Covid-19, Carson flouted its six-day long twenty-four hour lockdown law to ride empty four-foot CGB on Sunday, March 29, posting the event on his Instagram page, and, eventually, losing his surfboard to the local cops.
I asked, who among us could ignore the siren call of empty four-footers spinning down a down a tropical point like a mirage, its endless beckoning enough to drive any man mad.
Carson, who is sixty-four years old and whose surfer bona fides are proved by the fact he was once invited to the prestigious Smirnoff Pro Am in Hawaii, felt as restless as a ship pulling against its mooring.

I asked him, today, about the experience.
How good was CGB in the grand scheme of things?
“Best day of the year,” said Carson. “It can get bigger, but rarely as clean. I’ve been here twenty-three winters now and I’d rate this as one of my top two go-outs. It’s one thing being the only one out, I get that every season, but it’s a whole different feeling knowing no-one’s even coming out.”

Carson said he was surprised no one else had a swing at what was always going to be a one-day swell.
“I saw it coming on the charts, right after they had announced the island’s lockdown. The night before I read online that they had just announced a five-thousand dollar fine and possible twelve-month jail sentence for ‘anyone who violates the curfew’. Ugh.”
Carson, whose own property extends, theoretically I suppose, fifteen yards into the water, knew it was firing from the moment he woke up.
“There were long lulls between sets so if you quickly had a look, you might’ve thought it was flat.”
Thing was, Carson could hear it.
He took a morning coffee, watched a few sets, then figured his strategy.
“Get one wave, then get back in before the cops come. I wanted to know I had at least ridden one wave during what truly was ‘a once in a lifetime opportunity’ but then I decided after the first wave, ok, maybe three and then I’ll go in. Two hours later, I was still out there.”
Figuring he’d save a little energy for the late sesh, the joint aways pulses right before dark he says, Carson came in and sat beneath the same tree he always sits under after a sesh.
“Just to relax, do some breathing exercises and reflect on what just happened. Then I saw ’em.”
Cops.
“Two police officers walking up the rock on the point to where I was sitting. Oops. Well, I had kinda been expecting them all morning and I was surprised it took them over two hours to show up.”
Carson said, “Good morning.”
“Good morning,” replied the cops, who then asked Carson for his ID.

“I was still dripping wet and I told him I didn’t have it on me. Kinda without warning, he grabbed my surfboard which I was holding on my knees as I sat, they took my name and they were gone. He told me to get it at the local police statin when this is all over.”

When was the last time Carson surfed it solo like this?
“Well, living right here, the property goes right to the water, I often see the first rideable set come down the point. So it’s not that unusual. I’ve had solo sessions a half-dozen times just in the past couple months, but not like this.”
How did he feel about the episode with the cops?
“Overall, the cops were pretty decent about the whole thing,” says Carson. “I understand they were just doing their job in unprecedented circumstances. I think we both showed mutual respect, which goes a long way in disputes. We’re still in lockdown here so I haven’t heard much about what people think, though no doubt some of the other surfers were kinda jealous or pissed. I would be. There was a news conference where they talked about how many people had been arrested since the curfew started and someone asked, ‘What about that guy who went swimming?’ That’d be me.”
I ask Carson for his response to people who snitch and the narcs who say nobody should surf.
“I walked down my own property that actually extends fifteen-yards into the sea and jumped of the rocks. It’s two acres. The gate was locked and I never left my property. There wasn’t another person in site so no one was in any danger… the new two-week lockdown here specifies that you are allowed anywhere on your own property. The police couldn’t see me around the point from their offices and I suspect never would have seen me…”
“But,” says Carson, “there’s an old guy here who used to surf, who lives up the hill. The police told me he and his wife called to complain that I was surfing. As my gardener was opening the gate for the cops to leave, one cop said, ‘Look, she (the wife) is up there filming us now.”
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What were you doing?
Not sure I totally understand why he was in violation. If he paddled out on his property and returned on his property. What’s the harm? Granted, not everyone has the same access but he does. Well done, sir.
I’m so over this old story X2. If beachgrits going continue to interview old dudes who surf soft waves like a fairy I will go over to stab.
FFS…. Pro surfers are losing their jobs. The Pro scene is gone broke. Wave pools are being drained.
And here’s Derrek… Pushing surthe coref journo envelope with a interview a old dude who is his old friend who owns a computer and flaps around a small point break once or twice a year!
Classic b.c surf media ( b.c =before convid19)
its possible that some of us care more about old blokes having a surf than broke pro surfers.Or any pro surfers.
Here’s Derek. And there’s The Sultan of Swishy and Ashton Bilbonic Plague Goggans.
You broke character. I see that even a virus can get career fatigue.
At the moment we can still surf as its exercise – so I surfed today offshore fun – long period waist high. But if in Vic or maybe Sydney can’t – Bex what’s go?
Manly beach today and it was flat
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First hero of the “Long War”.
Raises the ago old question; If the man was defied, but no one heard it on the ‘gram, does it make a sound?
David this is excellent stuff. It’s driving me nuts, this whole “oh no we shouldn’t surf because well we just shouldn’t.”
Augusta MR shire have taken a sane and pragmatic stance. Very good of them considering much retarded surfer behaviour of late
yep absolutely.
Watch out for that dry cough sir nock, its creeping around the bends and coming right for ya…. the night is low and blankets are nigh.
My beaches aren’t closed, so I’m speaking from a place of “this is somebody else’s problem” but is not the point that we shouldn’t surf because if a few of us break quarantine ranks and hit the beach, more people will, and it becomes impossible to limit crowds?
well god knows people can behave witlessly in the surf, but my beaches aren’t closed either, and everyone around here is managing it pretty easily re distancing even by that Scripps chemist’s standards, it seems true in most parts of Australia, and the only crowd behavior that’s led to closed beaches has been from non surfing people packing the sands of Bondi etc.
I might be having an allergic reaction though, a great old buddy of mine has recently been advocating a national ban on surfing and is writing to politicians to try to get it going and it’s just horrifying me, like since when do surfers ask politicians to ban surfing.
Plus fundamentally I feel that surfing is good for us all and if people can still walk their dogs etc, you should still be able to surf.
The talk up our way is that using the beach for exercise; walking the dog, jogging, surfing, is OK. Sunbaking is not. That being said, There is a bit of swell this morning and Noosa National Park is closed. Wonder how many have/are doing the bush trek to Ti-Tree/Granite?
Who is he????
Quite a few packed in on Newy reef today
And people sunbathing with 50 mtrs separation.
Until ol mate clubby forced them to do starjumps
Get the old RC Surfer out
https://youtu.be/cPtpBfDExl4
Funny thing is with the current laws here, you’d be able able to paddle out and surf, but you can’t stand/linger on the beach with your remote control.
They just told us wearing masks is dangerous
You can’t make this stuff up!
There’s a part of me that just loves the fact that a grumpy old ex-Surfer was the nark.
No shortage of ’em right now.
An NZ Police website set up for people to dob others in crashed due to heavy traffic. Not our finest moment.
Narc Zealand.. As a fellow ANZAC, I’m offended. My sympathies from across tha dutch.
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Man revenge will be so sweet on the old prick. Flaming bag of dogshit etc
wifes name is karen, nancy or kathy?
loveable assholes are the best.
So would Ashton be the narc wife in this scenario?
For a famous designer, you would think he’d have better taste than to rub our noses in it.
This article/blog post reminds me of Metallica and how everything after 1988 was just pathetic, just like Billabong (aka Oaktree).
Party on Andy, Party on Metallica, Party on Wayne, Party on Garth, Party on Derek.
The view from Carson’s yard picture explains it all. I salute him.
Got a real Burleigh feel to it, don’t it.
When I think of burleigh
I think of these bra
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That’s coz you’re a dipstick, bexy.
Is that ya wife again??
If we had sharia law.
Based on pictures Ive seen, for sure! If course Ive never been to your great country so I can’t say for sure. #bucketlistpostcorona #mightnotleave
Not a bad place to grow old – if you can get along with your neighbours.
No one growing old gets along with their neighbours. Especially in nice places.
Yes
What beeeeatchhhhhh (the snitch and his wife).
The end of
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