Not all information contained therein necessarily accurate…
There was a time when man used paper products to convey information, as archaic as that sounds now.
In a surf traveler’s stash of essentials, an ugly orange, perfunctorily font typefaced “guide” was in everyone’s backpack.
It was called The Surf Report and it took traveling somewhere to realize how much bullshit it contained, but information was not accessible and at least it gave us some info to explore beyond.
Personally scribbled, the added texts beyond the margins of the original report were gold.
We guarded these “secrets” like they were actually secret. Technically, they were our secrets.
It was on a trip to an unfamiliar stretch of New South Wales coastline that I remember scanning the dog-eared copy yet again for that region.
I had driven past or through this stretch a dozen times without even stopping for petrol. We considered Newie a “drive through town” which we now use to condescend the mid-west US as we fly over.
The drive from Coffs (I used to love that left off the headland just north of town) to Sydney was not urgent, our flight did not leave for another two days. Redhead Beach was the call, we saw a glimmer of waves before dusk, the wind was good and the nearby cabins were cheap as dirt.
We had two boxes of beers to dust and one joint left from the Hippy girl at Nimbin who got me fucked up on mushy tea a few weeks earlier.
My bro handled the booking while I scoured The Surf Report for info on the area.
We were given the key to our abode and my smiling friend cracked the first beer as he sarcastically asked if I had learned anything?
We made fun of each other, laughed and got wasted and the normal protocol of deciding who got the lone bed was decided in his favor.
I pulled out the tattered Report and began a thorough reading for items I missed during my last thorough reading.
One defining section of the Report was “Hazards”.
Sure, pretty obvious. Sharks, sharp rocks, blah blah blah, but the shit that always freaked me out was the small critters.
Snakes specifically and in this issue, Spiders.
The list of Spiders of concern was lengthy. The weed had had its effect and I began to obsess over the brown funnel web spider description.
Suddenly, I dropped the flashlight that I was reading by and picked it up light first shining the battery powered illumination onto the ceiling briefly, then again and again.
The ceiling of this fucking rental was almost completely covered in Spider webs.
My buddy is soundly passed out and now I’m off the floor and setting up my sleeping bag on the kitchen table. Which seemed a good plan, yet closer to the intricately spun hunting ground above my head.
You’ve know the phrase, sleeping with one eye open?
I think it was more romanticized in its historic sense. Clint Eastwood taking a nap while the local inbreds surrounded him for a gunfight he would win anyway.
Not this time, just a mid-twenties surfer freaking out over deadly spiders in cave of spiders.
“What the fuck is wrong Hip, you didn’t get any sleep?”
I was outside well before light and he had awoken to piss. I was still clutching that fucking Orange report in my hand, too scared to let it go although I had the thing memorized.
“We’re sleeping in a spider’s den… well, you were sleeping.”
He looked up to the spot that I pointed to.
“Holy fuck, that is a curtain of webs.”
He grabbed the report and read the warnings. His eyes opened as he scanned his bed and the proximity to the A-frame ceiling close to the wall next to the bed.
Surf looked very fun and I quickly forgot the long night. North-ish direction of the swell was sweeping lefts south and there were cross current rights on offer too.
I made a mental note to revise The Surf Report to exclude another stay at the cabin and to note the good beachbreak.
We were laughing about our good fortune as the fisherman parked around us groused about a poor morning’s luck finding lunch.
You know that feeling, being so happy when others are fucking angry.
Like Malibu ’83 when I’m skipping back to Topanga and my parked car while huge surf and mudslides ruined people’s homes.
Or surfing through fires while all the residents evacuate and it’s pumping.
I remember a hurricane forcing mass evacuations and the San Jose River mouth dialing as good as it gets. Man, that was a good day, long before the new harbor ruined the iconic break.
Three-hundred yard tubes. Chicken-skin pinch-worthy.
Anyway, on this day, the fishermen were the grumpy locals and we were the elated tourists.
I got into the car, both side windows were rolled down all night and I turned on the ignition to defrost the front window screen as it was time to say au revoir to the disgruntled oldies packing away their tackle boxes.
As the Holden sputtered to life, directly in front of my window emerged an enormous spider caught under the screen and flushed by the defrost cycle.
The massive Spider crawled right toward my driver side window with a speed and agility I had never experienced.
My buddy roared and I climbed over him to “escape” out the passenger side.
Full-scale panic.
The car lurched to a stop as I let go of the clutch.
The Fisho’s had the laugh of their lives as the mood tables had turned.
One grabbed a broken branch and invited the spider to the nearby brush as we caught our breath. We had barely escaped death it seemed.
“Mate, what are you guys so scared of?”
I handed The Surf Report to him, opened to the small paragraph on the brown recluse.
He read the passage to his crew and they all fell about laughing.
Apparently, the brown recluse was not the spider “attacking” me and was diminutive of size and rarely seen round those parts according to the oldies.
We tried to look cool pulling away, but the boys waved to us with more jeer than cheer.
We arrived in Narrabeen and got a proper room that night.
That peak was going off, but crowded as fuck with a very capable crew owning it. We surfed the beach park as I had on trips before and it was so much fucking fun.
Somewhere, in a box of discarded school papers and report cards in my Mom’s attic laid a plethora of Surf Reports, each customized in my own hand writing.
When she died, I never thought to look for the collection.
you’re welcome Jen!
but if you say something like “Wow this is like California 50 years ago!” I’ll organize the funnelweb hit job myself
Just leaving an opening to prove you have basic literacy skills and reading comprehension, given you’re educated on the North Shore. You passed, this time. If Hippy blesses us again with another trip down memory lane, we’ll try again.
I used to subscribe to the Surf Report and I swear it was in purple ink not orange. I think I found some under the house a few months ago. Kind of quaint to look back on these days. Even Lonely Planet went the same way but at least the owners managed to flog it off to the poms for a bomb beforehand.
How about a little TOW on the…… forget it I don’t want Negs to ban me again.
Fuck, don’t worry about it Jen. Every Australian talks up the terrible threats lurking around every corner of this fucken Gothic wasteland we call a continent, but it’s actually safe as houses.
Unless you meet a taipan. Then it all turns to shit.
Hey Nick, were you competing in the Coke Surfabout ’78?
It’s funny, Surfer’s Journal plums so many mines and misses the gold.
Dude, tell the story.
Nah, I was 17, I think Banksy was the only one of us feral juniors who made it through the trials. I watched it though, it was fucking nuts. Really good NN for earlier rounds then freakish Nth Steyne for the last two days. Larry Blair! Larry beat our hero Simon in the semis then Lynchy in the final. Looking back I feel Larry was the guy who broke down more doors than anyone, almost unknown but won two Pipes back to back and that Coke contest. He used the opening presented by the trials to show you didn’t have to have a reputation to win these big events.
holy fuck.
Where was the contest before the move to North Steyne and what a fucking good call… if that isn’t a story, none has ever been told.
Nick, type.
Serious? OK. The trials started at Avalon in kinda semi rubbish 4-5′ lefts and rights, weird sse winds. Difficult and annoying surf. Then moved to Warriewood and got better, then to NN. Narrabeen had a really good bank at the time. Swell squared up and started pumping from the east. I wasn’t real weather map savvy at the time, the only way you could tell what was happening was watching the ABC tv news weather, they would show a MSLP chart each day, but I can’t recall what it looked like then. It was April, dynamic surf time on the east coast, and there was a tropical cyclone (Hal) around that time, so maybe Hal did the job.
Anyway it bombed, Narrabeen fired up, then the weather went crazy, raging southerly winds and a major jump in e and se swell. The contest had to be delayed a couple of days. Then the weather began to clear, the swell hung, and Nth Steyne was dealing with the wind best of anywhere. It was fickle and wild the second last day, then the last day was fucking impeccable, perfect 6-8′ barrels. Larry got an unbelievable wave to win, a nine second pit. It blew minds.
Australia’s big sports TV channel, 9, made a six part series about the contest and ran it every Sunday night in prime time. It was directed by a guy called David Hill who went on to be one of the world’s best known sports tv producers, he ran Fox Sports when it first started. The show was considered a real breakthrough in sports television at the time. It even had Nat Young paddling around in the line up on finals day interviewing the surfers in the water, using a waterproof mike. Greenough shot a bunch of the footage. Tragically the tapes of the show are long since vanished, probably chucked out in some station move or other, they were never digitised so you can’t watch ’em.
I wasn’t inferring that you should type that story here… this is the content people will read, history. Fucking sick history.
You’re missing the broadest point, this IS what surfers want to read. Can’t believe you typed this reply… fuck man, you could be a historian.
Maybe compete for Warshaw’s profits!!!!
Nick turn this into an article. Somewhere that pays you and entertains us. Why isn’t anyone doing this? FCKU
You can read all this shit and way more in the upcoming and possibly slightly sardonic “Carnival Of The Animals” a history of professional surfing by me and Sean Doherty, circa late 2021!
Why do I think you had not included the ’78 contest in your book… hmmm….
Read above maybe?
I was there too
so sick bexy…
Thanks for persuading Nick to elaborate on his story of the surf contest. You are right, this is what we want to read about when we come to a surf website. Surf stories!
Thanks Hippy.
And your surf story was enjoyable also. I do remember the Surf Reports. Haven’t thought about them in ages until I read your article.
I agree!! Love to hear as many NC tales as possible.
Your story was a great, Hippy, Im sure its just one of thousands. Thank you!
To bad the guy was a total cunt!
edited and put together by russ calsich. ahead of internet and its time.
LOL man…. you said you were a slut so I’m testing you!
I think they say in an average life an Australian can expect to have swallowed half a dozen or so, whilst sleeping
It’s all fun. Do you remember PostSurf? This is tame as fucking kittens.
Ha! I worked as editor of The Surf Report and Surfermag.com as the Interwebs dawned. It was a strange beast with a fervent following til the webs made it obvious that there wasn’t going to be a market for its weird melange of travel guide, surf spot revelations, rundowns of surf stats from across the globe and, yes, hazards. It was unglamorous but fun dealing with the iconoclasts who wrote those things. Sometimes folks who wrote Surf Reports would give away great spots. Sometimes they wouldn’t. I got my foot in the door at Surfer writing the first Surf Report on Jamaica. When I first met Billy “Mystic” Wilmot at Kingston’s infamous Zoo the year after the Jamaica Report, I thought he was going to kill me. My saving grace was that I pointed out to Billy that I listed Zoo as “an unrideable rocky shorebreak” when as anyone who got to surf Zoo before the break was destroyed by Hurricane Ivan knows, it was actually one of the best waves in the Western Hemisphere. http://thescuttlefish.com/2…
I sometimes think , becoming a surfer , in a positive sense ,was an act of DEVOLUTION ?
When a problem comes along you must whip it !
Great story LGR …got me tearing up ……. My Dad was always magnificent , defending our family from spiders , flies and othe nasties with a pair of $2 thongs from woolies but was nothing in comparison to my maternal grand mother , the wonderful Jesus like Bertha who killed cockroaches with her bare hands . I still remember the SLAP ! and the sound of crushed cockroach shell … my hero is she still !
Are diphthongs as effective? As in “Oi you, spider!”. How’s about you thing a thong – “I’d like to dedicate the next thong to you Mr Spider”. Somehow my brain always conjures up an image of a g-string when someone says thong. It’s very disturbing. Jandals mate, they’re called jandals!
Yes the Thong , Slap …and .what was it you called them Jandals ( silly name possibly derived from JC sandals … god knows ? ) definitely will not protect your Achilles Heel on Your Odyssey Big Al ….. But as PIL sang “ I could be Thong , I could be Right “
FYI James, the word Jandals, (the ubiquitous footwear approved by Health and Safety everywhere), was coined by Kiwi soldiers returning from Japan after the second world war. People said ” What’s that on your feet there, haven’t seen those before?”, “Japanese sandals mate”
Ha I always wondered where the word Jandals came from. Another favorite : zoris
Thanks Oae ! I will go to bed better informed …… Made in Japan , like most things in that early post war period except for the Ugg Boot which was made in Oz by Shane and sheep and thus , became very popular in NZ . Just wondering if you brought back the Hector Protector from your visit to Troy ?
Jeez LGR …. The Kiss of the Spiderwoman ! …. Jumping out with a slipper in your hand on Oxford St …. You are lucky you didn’t end up being called Cinderella in Oz …. bloody spiders !
Nice one Hippy. And to think an article on surfing in Oz without mention of a shark. +100000 points.
thanks for ride down nostalgia lane hippy, the surf reports were key starting points back in the day
I really really really doubt it was a funnelweb.
They are pretty shy and only go wandering around bushy places, on the ground, during damp summer months looking for nooky. They are HIGHLY unlikely to go getting into cars.
BTW the infamous Hawaiian Cane Spider is a close relative of the Australian Huntsman.
Ripping the last couple of cones before hitting the plane to tour Tassie alongside local legends Mustang, I felt the faintest of strokes on my upper lip moments before heaving the hot coals into the chamber and releasing the shotty as if dropping the clutch in a big block powered classic. But I didn’t, I refrained, gently breaking the seal and then letting whispy fragments of smoke clear before inspecting the source of confusion. A fucking huge Redback. That spider was looking for a way out and I was a bee’s dick away from lodging that cunt of a thing into my lungs.
That is fuckin terrifying.
The impossible diagnosis would have been the most horrid part.
Thats gnarly! Imagine telling the ER people you smoked a spider! That’s If you could still talk.
Hobbsy and Hippy
Americanos in love
With the letter “I”
They’re inspired by Ashton.
Up there with your finest.
You can spot the egotist
By the gleam in his “I”.
I’m guessing this would have in the 90’s Hippy?
You would have been in far higher mortal danger with the old punch happy fucks at Club Redhead than the spiders mate!
’84 or 5