A surf utopia difficult to stomach.
Today was the swell of the summer on Lake Michigan. Conditions were being called epic, a rare day where the surf wouldn’t be decimated by onshore winds.
I park behind a red, 1980’s Ford Fiesta. Its license plate reads “SURF UP.” There’s a longboard strapped to its roof. I look around. Longboards are strapped to the tops of several small cars.
It strikes me as odd. Boards were rarely left out in California.
There are ten guys in the water riding a variety of mid-lengths and logs. An eleventh sits on the inside, taking photos. The surf is clean, waist-high rights running down the beach.
I’m instantly greeted by the lineup, even though I’m sitting twenty yards south.
I drift north.
The lineup is mellow, jovial. There are only a few days of summer with clean surf and it seems like most of the lineup knows one another.
A guy on a foamboard with a camo, short sleeved Hurley wetsuit paddles out and sits on top of me. I’m instantly annoyed.
I glance over. He’s smiling.
“Crazy waves today, eh?”
I nod back, nervous of his proximity.
A green wetsuited man flies down the line on a beautiful, turquoise longboard.
There is a mix of colored wetsuits. Black and logo-less is the exception.
A bearded man sits in two feet of water on the inside with a water housing, hooting at his buddies as they come down the line.
I rarely see a set ridden by less than two people.
There is small-talk instead of stoicism.
I’m the only one who duckdives. Everyone else holds their leash at the base.
A man in a long john wetsuit slides out on his bottom turn.
As he pops up, he’s greeted by hoots.
“That head dip was sick!”
The lineup is devoid of any of the cynicism, judgement, or animosity that permeates all other ocean lineups. There is a collective exuberance. Even though this swell will likely last only a few hours, and waves of this size are hard to come by, the lineup lacks any of the usual anger or suspicion.
It’s as if I’ve found myself in a surf utopia.
Untouched by vile, hateful surf culture, something wonderfully beautiful has blossomed in middle America.
I hate it.
I should love it, especially being the only outsider in the lineup, but I hate it.
There is no adherence to the (arbitrary) wardrobe rules we have created.
Every time a set rolls through, I’m back paddled or dropped in on. The worst part is I can’t even be mad. While back-paddling me, they hoot me into waves. After dropping in on me, the interloper comes up smiling, flashing a quick shaka.
It’s like a puppy tracking mud into the house.
My glaring looks are met with exclamations about how epic it is.
I leave the water confused.
Walking up the beach, I hear a whistle. One of the better surfers is smiling up at me, throwing a shaka.
It is the most gracious, good-willed lineup I’ve ever been a part of.
I miss the cynicism and judgement and loathing. I love that when I paddle out in the ocean I’m immediately sized up.
I love how when a good longboarder cross steps gracefully, his ankle attached to the tail of his board, he is still discounted.
I love how when a college fraternity member paddles out in a brand new neon Hurley wetsuit, the nose of board sticking out of the water like a flag, he is collectively loathed.
Or that weird nonverbal agreement to collectively snake a serial back-paddler.
I love the stoic stares out to sea that are only broken by sideways looks to see who’s paddling for the peak.
It’s why we hate the Disney-ification of the WSL. It’s not that Elo is kooky or that we don’t want more surfers in the water (rising housing prices are plenty sufficient on that end).
We hate collective joy.
For a fairly spiritual bunch, we really enjoy self-flagellation.
I wish I had been vibed out today. It would have made the drive home far less introspective.
I wonder if that guy got any shots of me today.
never heard it called the UPA
That’s an excellent POV of a Ben Gravy episode. Might be my favorite Gravy episode yet. Certainly, the most exciting.
I can’t bring myself to sit through an entire video
What, pray tell, is the difference between back padlling and snaking?
Seems like the differences are regional? I’ve always considered snaking synonymous with dropping in.
yeah? nah, snaking is paddling to somebody’s inside while in the lineup. which it sounds like backpaddling is exactly the same, but they’re used within one sentence in the article like there’s a difference there? dropping is dropping in on somebody’s wave while they are further inside than you. anybody for a universal surfing grammar?
Weird part VONR…. warmer water than So cal right now and clear as a bell.
Lake Michigan down to the mid 40’s in spots though. Upwelling is killer here.
I work in Chicago, or used to, often and support an NFL team along the lake. One of the teams blog commenting section lives in UPA and claims 74 degree water and crystal clear water….. that true? I would love to torch him, please let me know… I accepted it as fact.
I contacted the Sheboygan Surf Club… we had back to back gigs in Chicago and wanted to check it out and they were amazing and very welcoming. Never made it, but intend to someday as it blew me away that they wanted me to visit.
Nice people. Tough exterior, but doughy soft underneath.
I’m in no way an expert on surfing out here, just a transport living here for a few years. It depends what lake they were on in the UP. I surfed Lake Michigan a few weeks back and it was 75, but Lake Superior (from what I understand) is always cold. The water is genuinely crystal clear up there though.
Fuck off Shoresy.
De-gens from up country…
Ilmavoimat (“Air Forces”) always prepared! Mobile sauna.
https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
Plenty of room out here!
My Finnish homeboys always cheerful in line-up, side effect of hypoth ermia.
https://m.youtube.com/watch…
Home? thats great! Looks better than our summer in Cal.
I live in Landes FR for past 25 years, but yes started surfing in Finland when I was stationed at air base near the coast, surf check via inverted flight in Draken XS35.
Really? I might have to make a road trip up there.
They are sluts, but you have to enjoy fuller, wider berths…. and ciggy’s.
If you’re cool with fucking girls bigger than you, it’s on.
unless your a real racist/mysoginistic cunt
‘Kook Glut’
!
kind of the same pathetic miserable scene at some “high-profile” spots in New Jersey from Memorial Day Weekend to Labor Day Weekend… and that period seems to extend into October now… just utterly awful
I’m not sure. I’ve surfed far kookier spots in Southern California.
So is oil.
Well, I guess the industry could switch to harnessing the anger against kooks as a renewable resource.
What’s the UPA ?
I’ve heard of the Ozarks but never been there…
I think it’s part of the FUPA belt.
Sounds gay as fuck
Any dorries in the carpark for a quick knob-job between surfs ? (no bushies allowed)
I took a break, thanks.
The incoming tide of C-19 and associated socio-political spasms left my manic humour rather deflated.
I still haven’t surfed yet, but am working on that. A 3-day week is going to help.
Actual censorship is terrible, sinister and a violation of rights. But banning someone temporarily from a privately-owned frivolous internet special-interest comments section only after repeated requests to please stop turning the joint into such a shit-show to the point where others stop engaging, doth not a censorship make.
Aww
Chin up chinless
Crispy
Only when ya get twisted up..