BeachGrit investigation: “Fabrizio
Stabile’s death won’t be the last at a wavepool… Skiing is a
mess of negligence. Wavepools will follow!”
By Cedar Hobbs
You're putting people right into a confined lineup
with a shallow concrete bottom. There's no barriers to entry. Plus,
you're adding booze into the equation.
(Editor’s note: Was New Jersey surfer Fabrizio
Stabile’s death at the celebrated Waco wavepool in 2018 caused by
negligence and the matter covered up, as alleged by his family in
their ongoing wrongful death lawsuit? Today, in part four, click to
read parts one, two, and
three, a
former employee describes a new two-million dollar filtration
system and an owner oblivious to any previous danger.)
After shutting down in October 2018, BSR reopened its
doors on March 22nd, 2019, claiming improved water quality
and a new wave.
The pool is no longer dyed cotton candy blue and now boasts a
“state-of-the-art” filtration system built and implemented by Water
Tech Solutions and approved by the Texas Department of State Health
Services and the Waco-McLennan County Public Health District.
According to the Waco Tribune-Herald, the filtration
system cost $2 million.
The pool reportedly has additional measures to ensure
filtration. An added lagoon helps with filtration, and Royal
Wiseman, a general manager, has called the water “drinking-water
quality.”
The pool still receives its water from the “craters:”
thirty-foot-high mounds of dirt that store the water and act as
cooling towers.
According to a former BSR employee, as of the 2019 season, those
craters were not tested or treated.
“When BSR had their own independent study, last year [in 2019],
after we had filtration . . . they decided that after that we would
no longer treat or test the water in the craters. No one was
supposed to go to the craters after that. The way the craters were set up . . . made it
just like a petri dish for microbial life. Nobody treats it or
tests it anymore. We don’t go up there. We open the valves, but we
don’t go up there. Or that was the rule [in 2019].”
The purported sale of BSR is still pending. The court heard oral
arguments concerning that order on November 4, 2020.
There is little end in sight for the litigation. The court order
stopping the sale is still on appeal and it’s unclear when the
Texas Tenth Court of Appeals will make a ruling.
Once there is a decision, the case will be remanded to the
McClennan County District Court for a final judgment, though the
American legal system isn’t particularly well known for its
efficiency, and the COVID-19 pandemic has only slowed the
courts.
Settlement doesn’t seem likely either.
The parties rejected a mediation order in March 2020, and the
litigation has become increasingly hostile.
The pool is currently open for business. There have not been any
additional reports of Naegleria fowleria.
It’s quite easy to villainize in these types of stories, but
it’s important to note that the park’s owner Stuart Parsons Jr
seemed oblivious to the danger.
Before Stabile’s death, his children used to go play at the surf
pool.
A former BSR employee said about Parsons: “He had never
considered possibilities of that water being dangerous to the
point that his kids were in the water as much as anyone else. You’d
get there in the morning after the beach was raked at night and
there’d be three or four little sets of footprints where him and
his kids had been playing on the beach.”
Fabrizio’s won’t be the last death at a surf pool.
You’re putting people right into a confined lineup with a
shallow concrete bottom. There’s no barriers to entry. I have no
business surfing some of the new slabs, but because I can
competently trim I can “paddle out” there.
And then I hesitate on that slab and go over the falls head
first into the concrete bottom.
Plus, you’re adding booze into the equation. When I’m too drunk
to surf I won’t make the paddle out at my local, but I could
definitely wade out into a pool.
Skiing is a mess of negligence. My guess is the wave pools will
follow.
Pools will become more ubiquitous and barriers to entry will
lower and corners will be cut. There’s just too much money to be
made in commodifying surfing.
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Mature female Great White Shark resurfaces
after nearly two year absence, makes beeline for Virginia, worrying
researchers: “She prefers blue meat over red…”
By Chas Smith
Be alert.
You could have easily missed the news,
yesterday, that Joseph R. Biden Jr. has been projected the winner
of the 2020 United States of America Presidential election, as the
story about Kelly Slater not following his longtime girlfriend on
Instagram dominated most headlines, but it is true and now
over.
Not officially, of course. Donald J. Trump Sr. has not conceded
and has vowed to fight to the bitter end but he doesn’t have a
chance and Democrats threw open their doors, nationwide, and
partied on the streets, worrying Great White Shark researchers.
For yesterday, maybe not coincidentally, the Great White Shark
Katharine resurfaced after a nearly two year absence.
Named after Katharine Lee Bates, the 19th century songwriter who
penned America the Beautiful, the mature female measuring 14+ feet
pinged off the coast of Virginia and was making a beeline for the
state’s coast.
First tagged off Cape Cod in 2013, Katharine had become a very
popular shark, amassing a 63,000 strong
following on Twitter. Researchers followed her various
paths and marveled that she had never eaten a person with some
hypothesizing that she did not enjoy the taste of red, or
Republican, meat.
“Have you ever seen Ian Cairns?” one, who wished to remain
anonymous, asked. “Would you eat him?”
In yesterday’s tweet she declared, “Miss me?” So everyone knows
YES I was wearing a mask when I came up.”
The mask-wearing confirmed that she is, indeed, attempting to
appeal to the left, continuing to worry researchers as Virginia
went to Biden by a wide margin.
The soft, supple, easily digestible flesh of blue, or Democrat,
meat would certainly prove intoxicating to a mature female like
Katharine.
East coasters, please stay alert and stay safe.
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Angry surf fan eviscerates BeachGrit’s
entire roster of writers: “Archaically masculine, self-conscious
blowhards… dirt-encrusted homeless men!”
By Karl Von Fanningstadt
The cruellest fun you can have in a post-Trump
world…
With the election over, now is the time for more
important things, like this empty calorie end of year
retrospective/review of BeachGrit writers!
Did I miss you? Find out!*…
Chas Smith
The Charles D. Smith Article Factory, integral to
BeachGrit operation since its founding, always able to
pump out, at a prodigious rate, intellectually empty content for
consumption by the mindless mass, shifted even further into shark
mania this year.
To the point of excess, every other article came to discuss
and/or tangentially be tied to the creatures.
While that was the biggest development concerning his writing,
Charlie was able to produce, intermittently, some truly inspired
work, including his article detailing the Official Kelly Slater
Friend Rankings, the best thing to appear on the site this
year. Perhaps if he didn’t have so much going on outside of the
site, his work here wouldn’t suffer so much… nah, get it, bro.
Also, in keeping a promise, I have to mention that his article
about a proposed Surf Hall of Fame in Hawaii… was not great.
BeachGrit Shark Species Choice: Greg Norman – a winner,
entrepreneur (several business ventures), and an epic choker, Greg
Norman is a golfing legend and an inspiration to everyone who has
ever achieved an accomplished position within their profession,
without fully living up to their own potential, while becoming a
bigger success outside it. Chas is the Greg Norman of surf writing.
After initial successes in surf writing, including the Mick
incident and Welcome to
Paradise, he, like Normie, would try to expand
past it, Normie starting several money making business ventures,
Chas becoming a war correspondent and author of well-received
non-surf books. In both their cases, outside of their initial
callings, they can be seen as bigger successes, especially Chas,
whose Reports From
Hell is better than anything he’s done in surf.
Also, both guys huge chokers, Greg famously melting down on Sundays
at several majors, Chas whiffing on both Erik Logan interviews and
getting shoved by Husky Bluto.
JP Currie
Articles from JP this year have been few and far between, totaling
only three: one about Kelly and his quest for
superficial understanding, one about MAWNs, and one a
crack at semi-autobiographical
denial surf-lit. Of the three articles, all of which I
enjoyed, the Kelly article was of utmost quality. Complete with the
enthralling hypothesis that Kelly has never finished a whole book
and a hilarious little story featuring Ol’ Funshine Bear, it was
fun! Salty, Scottish bastard (as you can probably tell, I’m
currently learning about adjectives).
BeachGrit Shark Species Choice: Bull shark – a savage,
allegedly aggressive beast capable of surviving in freshwater, the
Bull Shark is a versatile predator. JP can write and make an
argument thoughtfully above the line in an article and brusque
below, reacting irritably to people having an angry go at him in
the comments. Bull shark.
Cedar Hobbs
A young law student, Mr. Hobbs burst onto the BeachGrit
scene under the guise of being a surfer from the Midwest (so
quirky!), writing a few articles from that perspective. Plagued by
uninspired phraseology and an inability to produce any special or
real insight to anything, his early work was crap. Funny thing is,
in trying hard to make that interesting and failing miserably, he
actually ended up totally nailing the reality of the Midwest
personality: being a plain, stale corn chip. BeachGritters below
the line, me included, hated it. Mr. Hobbs, realizing people didn’t
like his shit, decided to travel back to 2016 with a pivot towards
writing about legal proceedings in the surf world (Editor’s
note: The directional change was at my suggestion) coming to
exist as a sort of dirt crusted homeless man’s Rory Parker. While
marginally better, I’m still not a fan.
BeachGrit Shark Species Choice: Brown Smoothound
(shitty sand shark) – unremarkable, small, and more of a nuisance
out in the water when you keep stepping on them, the Brown
Smoothound Shark, what I and everyone I knew called a “sand shark,”
is perfect for Cedar.
Steve Rees
Mr. Rees has written a few articles for the site this year, none
that you’d be bound to remember, mostly because his writing is hard
to follow, not because it’s especially complicated, but because the
sentences, while nice, never really flow. He writes a series of
independent non-sequiturs strung together for eight hundred words
or so.
Is this true? Probably not, I didn’t go back and read them, so
as not to possibly soil this potentially unreliable
recollection.
BeachGrit Shark Species Choice: Bonnethead shark – in
looking into sharks for Mr. Rees, I tried to find something that
neither I nor anyone else had never heard of, or at least that they
wouldn’t have remembered they had. Bonnethead. Perfect.
Matt Warshaw
As a beloved former writer and editor at Surfer
Magazine, and author of the most important
repository for information and knowledge concerning surfing and its
whitewashed history, the Encyclopedia of Surfing
(EOS), it may be difficult for some to watch Matt
Warshaw toil away in his superannuated position at
BeachGrit, wheeled out only when some old surfer dies to
write about what other old people thought of the guy.
For those young enough to not have lived through any of the
times or heard anything about who he’s talking about, or those who
failed to care in the moment when whatever/whoever was happening,
it can be kind of stretched to seem interesting.
For others who were there, or may have known more about the
personality being talked about, it can also be interesting… or not,
in case he got something wrong or made Nick Carroll cry.
Anyway, the past is dead.
BeachGrit Shark Species Choice: Post-Jumping of the
Shark TV Show – sometimes a critically acclaimed, or relatively
popular, TV show runs out of steam before its audience has a chance
to stop watching it, putting showrunners and networks in the
position of choosing whether to cruise on its success and ride it
out even as the quality declines, featuring ever increasingly
bizarre premises, and/or it becomes less relevant or hang it up…
they ALWAYS cruise it. In Warshaw’s case, there are still plenty
more surfers from the ‘70s and ‘80s not yet dead.
The George Brothers
Wow, what a pair of guys. Real and true industry titans, these
active legends of the surf writing game, at least in their own
minds (Sam invented surf
commentary!), the brothers provided articles featuring
ideas long ago decidedly stale (Sam) and viewpoints for archaically
masculine, self-conscious blowhards (Matt).
Every article existing as further proof that their era is dead
and should be.
BeachGrit Shark Species Choice: Megalodon – the largest
shark to ever exist, the Megalodon is extinct. Same as the Georges’
relevance.
Hippy
What do you like most about BeachGrit? Surf-lit? Quit-lit?
Sharks? Longtom? Pod… no, surely not the podcasts… Personal halcyon
days reminiscences of old guy guest writers? If the last one
interests you, then you probably loved Hippy’s stories this year.
Hemorrhaging levels of nostalgia that in such quantities would
cause a normal World War II veteran to black out, old guys the
world over got to cream themselves reading his stories and
remembering the bad old days. He also wrote two Coronavirus
articles that were pretty good.
BeachGrit Shark Species Choice: Chevrolet XP-755, The
Mako Shark I – Debuting in 1962 at the 6th Annual Automobile Show
in New York as a concept car for forthcoming Chevrolet Corvette
models, the XP-755 is perfect for those trafficking in long
forgotten memories. You’re welcome, Hippy.
Jen See
This year, the freshly anointed Holy Jen See appeared in
BeachGrit’s pages fewer times than in years past, at least
in my recollection. Despite that, what she did write, specifically
her new entries contributing to an ethnographic
understanding of Surfline Man, could be described as
hit-or-miss, your opinion usually dependent, though not
necessarily, on your position on the sexist to woke spectrum. I do
remember enjoying one of the Surfline Man posts.
BeachGrit Shark Species Choice: Great Hammerhead shark
– unprovoked attacks on humans by Hammerheads have been relatively
rare, with seventeen recorded since 1580, the latest being Michel
“Should Not Be Compared Stylistically to Kong” Bourez. Like
unprovoked attacks by Hammerheads, well-known women surf writer
numbers have been limited. Jen is a Great Hammerhead because of
this connection… and because Shea Lopez is from Florida, an area
I’ve always thought about when thinking about these creatures.
Derek Rielly
Kinky Tits had a good year, generating the Kelly Has a Chinese
Girlfriend so Can’t Be Racist article, which
would mark the inarguable high point of BeachGrit as a
site. Nothing he wrote this year before that was especially
remarkable, and he’s been able to cruise off it since, though
that’s probably due to him being more preoccupied with more
important things, like actually trying to make money and wrangling
guests for the podcasts, using all his energy on their intros… and
dealing with all the unsolicited articles (like this one) sent his
way.
BeachGrit Shark Species Choice: Streex – from the kids
TV show cartoon, Street Sharks, Streex is the
level-headed, cool, and self-proclaimed ladies’ man member of the
title crimefighting squad consisting of four brothers transformed
into half-man, half-shark creatures by an evil scientist. Being the
more level-headed of the BeachGrit principals, and
deciding to come up with one of the characters to choose for this
exercise, I would say Derek’s best fit would be Streex, who happens
to rollerblade, which I could see Derek getting into, weaving
though cones with other hairy armpitted German
Fraus.
Giancarlo Guardascione
A sporadic contributor throughout the year, GiGi has made an
unpronounceable name for himself submitting surf stories covering a
range of topics including… hmmm… umm… incidental New York/Jersey
surf happenings (?) and other seemingly random things like
Covid-infested poopy ocean water.
Usually pretty short and featuring uncomplicated syntax, his
articles are easily understood and pleasing enough so as not to
detract in the slightest from anyone’s further enjoyment of the
site.
Examining GG’s writing, one could classify it as exhibiting
competence… a type of competence that, unfortunately, can be
effortlessly unremembered.
BeachGrit Shark Species Choice: Goblin shark – by
picking a shark that starts with a “G,” our piccolo scrittore
italiano, now GGG, can potentially become confused with the
old, overrated Kazakh middleweight who lost to a ‘roided up ginger.
Pretty cool.
Surfads
Supplying the site with articles about a variety of subjects over
the course of the year, where Surfads really shined was in his
surf-lit contributions. Consisting funny observations about the
surfer lifestyle, and whatever cliché about practitioners he
decides to make fun, these stories cause hardcore surfers outside
of professional competitive scene to laugh and reflect on the
enriching aspects of their chosen hobby and also the inherent
ridiculousness of it all.
His surf-lit about imagining hitting that kook over the head
with a trophy inspired me to try to write the pilot episode of
Ferreira Files, which turned into a mostly biographical Quit-lit
piece about surfing and depression. Boo to that!
BeachGrit Shark Species Choice: Shorthand-Aided Rapid
Keyboarding Supplying – according to Wikipedia, the ShaRK keyboard
text input method “a user draws words on a graphical keyboard using
a pen. Instead of tapping the keys, the user draws a pen gesture
that connects all the letters in the desired word. After some usage
the user learns the movement pattern for the commonly used words
and can write them faster than is possible on a traditional virtual
keyboard.” Like the ShaRK, Surfads’s surf-lit articles are useful
tools for increasing efficiency.
In the case of surf-lit, it can be used to quickly and more
easily convey the attitudes held and stances taken by surfers on a
variety of subjects like VALs than a less palatable reasoned
opinion piece that would automatically receive pushback by people
wishing to argue or be contrarian because they don’t like being
told how to feel could, thus being more efficient. Is that a
stretch? Definitely.
longtom
With the Tour canceled for the year, we saw a lot less of our
esteemed longtom in these pages. What he was able to submit was
still pretty good, flashes of his brilliance which included
littering articles with brainwarming literary references for
readers to feel good were displayed throughout.
At his best during times of quickly shifting circumstances,
being able to contextualize what is happening and postulating what
to expect/look for going forward, the reality of the increasingly
stagnant surf world brought on by the coronavirus pandemic hindered
him.
With no professional surfing to write about, the subject matter
at his disposal, wavepool development and sharks, rendered him
unable to climb to the previously achieved heights of previous
years.
BeachGrit Shark Species Choice: San Jose Sharks in the
1990s – since their inaugural 1991-1992 season, the San Jose Sharks
have been the coolest team in the NHL. Easily. With an inspired
color scheme centered around teal, great nickname, and a kickass
sports logo, featuring a Great White charging through a triangle
(referencing the Red Triangle) and chomping a hockey stick, the
Sharks had a lot going on for them.
Subsequent teams to enter the league during the decade,
including the Mighty Ducks and Panthers, wanted and tried to be the
Sharks, the Ducks using unusual colors (purple and jade), the
Panthers utilizing a cool animal nickname. While they sucked at
playing in the ‘90s, the Sharks were still the best. I remember
playing NHL ’95 and always picking them, as did all my friends,
unless they wanted to be cheating assholes and pick the Blackhawks
or Red Wings.
Likewise, longtom, despite having a down year in terms of output
and my average article valuation, is still the best serious surf
writer.
*Requirements included writers having authored at least three
posts published and me being able to think of a shark for them.
Still didn’t make it? Well, fuck, that’s on you.
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Chas Smith: “What happens to Trumpism now?
Does it live or die? Consume the modern conservative narrative or
disappear like frosted Whigs?”
By Chas Smith
Calling Trump supporters "tribalists" or
"neo-Bonapareamists" or "wealth-aspirationalists" and defining
every Trump voter as overtly, or covertly, racist is dumb as it is
dumb. It was all something, and someone, you know.
And now it is over, the super heat has finally
been called. Singlets turned back into beach marshal, challenger
Joseph R. Biden Jr. eking out a win in the dying seconds, in
uninspired surf, against incumbent Donald J. Trump Sr. and getting
“chaired” up the “beach” socially distanced, of course.
Masked etc.
290 vs 214 the near final score.
The former almost in the excellent range.
Let us dispense with the vote tampering narrative, for a moment,
as it is unlikely as it is uninteresting (to dump that many
artificial ballots anywhere, outside of Venezuela, Tanzania, etc.
would require a complete suspension of disbelief), and focus on the
real matter at hand.
What happens to Trumpism?
The political movement that he conjured, though not entirely
original, was robust.
Is robust.
70 million United States of Americans, likely including the U.S.
Olympic Surf Team coach Brett Simpson, voted for a platform that
severely restricts immigration, rejects interference in foreign
lands, curses the entrenched political establishment, lets the
reigns mostly out on regulation, attempts to protect national
industries at the expense of global markets assuming those global
markets will re-adjust and bounce along, etc.
Does it live or die?
Consume the modern conservative narrative or disappear like
frosted Whigs?
Calling Trump supporters “tribalists” or “neo-Bonapareamists” or
“wealth-aspirationalists” and defining every Trump voter as
overtly, or covertly, racist is dumb as it is dumb. It was all
something, and someone, you know.
Is something.
Someone.
So what happens?
Donald J. Trump Jr. becomes standard bearer?
Brett Simpson?
It dissipates only to reemerge in therapy sessions and/or
muffled sobs behind bars?
You tell me.
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Flashback: The Greatest Surf Contest the
World Has Never Known!
By JP Currie
Amateurs surfed against professionals, women
against men, sixty year olds against teenagers.
In September of 2001, just as the world was about to
fracture live on television, some of the world’s most notable surf
personalities met on a remote Scottish island, summoned by Derek
Hynd to trial an experimental competition format.
No-where before or since has a contest taken place with such a
disparity of wave riders.
Some were pioneers, some were world champions. Others were
renegades and surf dissidents. And yet more were plumbers,
fishermen and oil rig workers.
Many of them had travelled the globe, surfing the world’s most
iconic waves; others had never ventured far from their home
breaks.
They rode high performance shortboards, and longboards, and
fish, and single fins, and eleven-foot gliders, all in the same
heats.
Tom Curren chose to bodysurf some heats, or borrowed local
longboards.
Amateurs surfed against professionals, women against men, sixty
year olds against teenagers.
It was competitive surfing reimagined, a fusion of art and sport
on an ancient shore.
It was an attempt to step back in time, in search of something
that had been lost.
It’s mostly been forgotten, or never even heard of.
But at the time it seemed like it might be the beginning of
something. In the context of global terror, perhaps it’s
unsurprising that it slipped by relatively unnoticed, like a
glassy, perfect wave sliding quietly by when your focus is
momentarily elsewhere.
I mail Hynd to ask him about it, not expecting much. I’ve never
known what to make of him. He’s always seemed to exist somewhere
beyond the pale. But I get a response immediately.
Sure, he says, ask away.
With great excitement I do, then I hear nothing.
In the interim I do some digging. The stories I hear increase
his mystique.
A month passes. I’m sure my questions have offended him somehow,
I’m sure I asked the wrong things.
Then one morning I wake up to an email which begins with an
apology for the delay then continues with a thousand words of
scattered eloquence.
Personal opinions of Hynd are beside the point, you want to hear
what he has to say.
“Either surfing was in good shape by the mid nineties or it’d
gone to shit. All depended on perspectives,” he wrote. “One major
surfing recession started with Gotcha heading into street and
department stores and losing the beach, others positioning
themselves to go public, Indo no longer guaranteed jungle isolation
with Rip Curl or Quiksilver boats sniffing around, board design in
worst ever shape, be it potato crisp crap or flip flap mals. An
entire generation… misdirected.”
He tells me he wanted to conduct an event that “refocused the
surfing essence”.
The set-up was this: there were three categories, pros, soul
surfers (solid amateurs but not quite full pros) and locals.
Each was given a handicap to start according to ability: locals
started with +5; soul surfers with +3; and pros on 0. Waves were
scored out of 10, best single wave counted.
Everyone surfed together regardless of equipment, ability or
gender.
There was a 50/50 split between technique and artistic
expression, and a judge for each.
It was non-elimination, scoring was cumulative throughout the
event, and there were cash prizes at the end of each day for the
best performer.
The claiming rules were as follows: if you finished a ride and
claimed it counted as your scoring wave; or you could gamble and
claim on take-off which would get you an extra point, but would
mean you had to count that wave.
As well as being inclusive and celebrating artistry, the format
encouraged performance.
The handicap system meant there was no way of holding back
against objectively lesser surfers. The claim system added an
intriguing gambling element.
“I think there were two heats in a row where I got a really good
wave straight away and I was like ‘just claim’ and there was only
five mins gone, it was pretty weird,” recalls Mark “Scratch”
Cameron, a Fraserburgh surfer who was twenty-three at the time and
had recently won the first of his seven Scottish championships.
“But then, you could be in a heat where everyone else has got
a wave and you’re in yourself. It was a good idea.”
“Hynd’s format is genius,” the shaper Christian Beamish says.
“It brings a level of democracy to surfing competition, and by
calling it a ‘Surfing Festival’ the emphasis is on
performance and exhibition, more so than a more antiseptic, purely
points-awarded-for-moves basis.”
Although it’s often a justified meritocracy, surfing has a
socialist core. The playing field is open and free to everyone.
Derek Hynd’s format, trialled in the Hebrides, embraces
surfing’s unique connection: we’re all in it together, just trying
to get a few waves and ride them how we choose.
“The Hebridean happening took a shot at bringing all surfers
together under the common surfing creed: We are as one,”
Hynd wrote in
Surfer.
I’m curious as to why Hynd’s format didn’t progress.
Everyone I speak to seems to feel that it was an unqualified
success. Rumour was that Hynd envisioned this as a precursor to a
breakaway tour.
He would hold a series of events, all far from the madding
crowd.
“We are looking at holding further events in outlying regions of
the world, where it takes a surfers commitment to attend,” Hynd
told the BBC shortly after the first event. “The more remote areas
appear to have more soul.”
But when I ask him today why it never moved on he tells me that
was never his intention. This seems to be the way with Hynd, his
ideas, much like his surfing, are like a stream of consciousness.
You never know what line he might take next.
“There was no notion of having it progress,” Hynd tells me,
nearly 20 years on. “People simply got a kick out of it, or I hope
they did.”
Of course, they couldn’t know they would be there, among the
crofts, and the wind, and the stones, in an old world, when the new
world came tumbling down. It seems frivolous to celebrate the act
of surfing against this backdrop, but that’s what they did.
Christian Beamish remembers the night they found out about the
attacks in the US and Tom Curren saying that they would change
everything. He recalls some confusing reactions.
“One fellow, out from London, watching the Towers fall on repeat
on TV that night, started to say, ‘Sorry, but you guys deserve it,’
Beamish says. “That made me really angry, and I recall telling him
to shut his fucking mouth.”
But the purpose of the event remained the same. Maybe it had now
become even more important to regain community.
“What did come out of it was a sense of spirit and place,” Hynd
says.
There was nothing to do but surf. And maybe that was enough.
An image burns in my mind.
A modern world crumbles as an ancient one stands stoic.
Lewisan kneiss stretches skyward. Stones that have stood for
hundreds of years, mysterious, immovable and unchanged.
Three thousand miles across the Atlantic, 21st century monoliths
vanish into dust clouds and fear.
Concrete and glass and steel and flesh dissolve into chaos as
the world looks on.
Some people are surfing.
Eventually, they must return to shore.
But until then, they’re ok.
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Jon Pyzel and Matt Biolos by
@theneedforshutterspeed/Step Bros