We are tough.
Aside from The Melee at Nazare, Hawaiian outer reefs, Mavericks, Great White Sharks, crowded Superbank, Tiger Sharks, Puerto Escondido, etc. surfing is not seen as a particularly frightening pastime and especially not when compared with the mixed martial arts what with blood on the mat, broken teeth, knock outs, tap outs, etc.
Thus, it comes as a rather large surprise to learn that the UFC’s number 12 ranked featherweight declared on the Fightful program that surfing is, in fact, scarier.
The scariest would be outside of MMA or training. It was a surfing accident. I was surfing in my home town of Haleiwa, Hawaii. We were surfing and it was pretty big. When it’s big, the current gets insane and super strong out there.
I remember a big set came in. I was taking off on this wave and I went over the falls and I just got held under for a super long time. My head hit the reef. I was all discumbobled [sic]. I didn’t know where I was. I was trying to come back up. They have this section called the toilet bowl because the water kind of vortexes and pulls you down.
There’s the reef and the current is really strong. I just remember almost not making it up. Barely making it up. Another wave came and held me down again. It was scary. Super scary. Probably scarier than any fighting, any training experience that I’ve ever witnessed.
Does that make you proud to be a surfer? Tough? Wanna go pick fights?
Very cool.
Maybe Dan vs Koa Rothman on choosing any wave over summer that they want?
So far going super well for me have surfed 4-5 times since my call, basically solo other than burning a few mates repeatedly
There was a time when you could trot down to Nubes, and get double your pleasure. MMA’s, and life changing hold downs. The Holly kids wrecked that!
And tell us which you found more terrifying, a four foot day in Cardiff by the Sea, or tête-à-tête with a green beret – I mean yellow beanie?
People would pay to see:
Chas vs Ashton cage match – beat each other unconscious with tampons or purses
Chas going across the table after a Rothman family member after they insulted his wife
Chas feeling up Eddie Rothman’s face/beard at a surf show with the expected result
cardiff strong
I’ll slap that double cappuccino latte out of your puffy jacket wearing hand.
any day at Cardiff by the Sea can be frightening, you never know which newly acquired longboard might hit you in the head.
The most terrifying part of surfing is being in a crowd.
I’m amazed more ppl don’t get run over!