And, Kelly Slater sharing the stage with people who hadn't yet figured out how to get barrelled at Pipe and who got paid the same. Historical.
On the beach at the Banzai Pipeline, during an adjournment in the Mens Final, Megan Abubo was interviewing the fresh victor of the Maui Pro at Pipeline, Tyler Wright*.
It begged the question for the viewer: Is an historical moment, in and of itself, incredible?
Exciting?
Tyler seemed downbeat, unbarrelled during the Final. It capped a bizarre admission that her confidence at the start of the day was zero. She was the epitome of the reluctant victor, a potent symbol of a sport that will brook any gulf in reality, ruin any broadcast, to establish its credentials as the avant-garde in gender equality.
Almost two decades since Blue Crush spearheaded a massive thrust in womens surfing, with a Final Day at Pipeline providing the dramatic denouement of the film. Has women’s surfing gone forwards or backwards in that time?
If prizemoney is the measure than huge leaps forwards.
If performance at Pipe is the measure then we are way behind the standards of the previous century.
In one of the more blackly comic scenes of the day Pipe pioneer Rochelle Ballard was reduced to giving real-time lessons in technique for successfully threading Pipe tubes to hapless contestants. Carissa Moore was the only woman to demonstrate any basic proficiency at Pipe and Backdoor. She had the butt/hip drag stall, the positioning and the courage to huck the ledge, then go back for more after savage donuts.
Tyler won the Final with three scrappy turns on a Backdoor wave off the reef.
What did it take for John John to finally win?
The best Pipe surfer of his generation but no strap. How could that be?
Whoa, wait, is John married?
He said, “my wife” at the Finals presser.
How could that happen with zero coverage?
To answer the question why hadn’t John won I went back and reviewed every heat of his since 2013. The conclusion was inescapable: John was a victim of his own level of comfort. He’d wander around, get lost catching crappy waves, insane waves for us, not heat-winning waves and leave the door open for opponents to best him. Most famously Jeremy Flores buzzer beater in 2017.
It wasn’t so much a lack of focus but more such an extreme level of comfort that lacked the intensity required to win.
That made him most vulnerable to head-fuck merchants like Kelly Slater and Gabe Medina, both of whom he attacked today.
If you had to pick a yin-yang concept today it would be the WSL broadcast versus Florences Tube-riding. The broadcast cut away from a wave of John’s to a head shot of Tyler. They cut the hitherto seamless You-Tube feed. The site went down, the blather was inane.
The pandering, condescending, infantilising treatment of the women’s heats was nauseating.
To balance, John’s ability to thread what looked like closeouts, even to the world’s best, and find exits, particularly at Backdoor was surfing on a heavenly plane. Taken as a complete A-to-Z compendium of Pipe/Backdoor tuberiding it was perhaps the finest display ever seen.
Two against Leo Fioravanti in their quarters were viciously under-scored but were enough to bury him in the opening exchanges. He played cat and mouse with an almost fifty-year-old man who holds decades of casual mental dominance over him, as well as a winning record in heavy surf, and beat him at every juncture.
Kelly laid a full-rail wrap on a Pipe wave, John laid a better, heavier turn on a bottomless backdoor nug after emerging calm as a master waiter carrying drinks at the Kui Lima. It was gorgeous, gorgeous action. The total pinnacle of what pro surfing can offer the working stiff.
With five to go in their epic semi, Kelly basically needs a ten. Maybe that was a little harsh of judges to highball the JJF scorecard and juice the spread but we’ll need to review the tape later. Kelly had two monstrous attempts at Backdoor. Lost a paddle battle with John, that looked like he won. If he had, the drainer he threaded on the buzzer would have given judges palpitations.
As it was, John forced the interference, nuked Kelly’s scorecard, and Florence was into the Finals.
Medina’s run in was more circumspect. A sleepy quarter against Kanoa, followed by a scrappy, grindy (to use the word of the day) semi against an injured Italo with more mystifying non-makes than we’ve ever seen from Gabe at Pipeline. He had enough waves to win the contest, including the Final where he laid down his best body of work, but in the end never seemed at any point to carry that dominant, winning energy that is characteristic of his Pipe surfing.
“Pipe chooses you,” said Jeremy Flores through an early morning of grey, wonky Pipe.
It seemed after three effortless makes from Medina at the beginning of the Final; deep drives at Pipe, ultra-technical backside tube-riding at Backdoor, hard drives off three-quarter bottom turns, that he had been chosen.
The old script was a non-competitive JJF would slowly fade-out and retreat to non-confrontational freesurfing. Not this time. He was able to back-up his earlier barn-storming heats with patient grinding, perhaps the beneficiary of a little love from the judges, before putting the chin-fluff in front with a clean make on a wave that Medina rejected.
That left Medina alone on the peak with lines stacked.
The bomb came, Medina duly dropped into it on his tippy toes and packed it. It was a breathless moment. I’m not sure whether the broadcast team called it.
Surely they must have.
Surely they couldn’t have been jabbering still about the women’s historical Final. Medina failed to emerge and that was that. Florence fulfilled his destiny. The little tow-headed skate kid with the cool Mom and the deadbeat Dad, surfing Pipe since he was in Kindergarten, finally wears the crown that eludes him for so long.
No rookies further than the quarters.
As mutha-fucking predicted Ross.
Nothing but the cream rising to the top, same as it ever was, same as it ever will be at Pipe.
Kelly still there at the pointy end putting on masterclasses, 14 months shy of his fifth decade.
And he had to share the stage with people who hadn’t yet figured out how to get barrelled at Pipe and who got paid the same.
Historical.
*Straight rip-off of a Russian story. Has to be a tail-pad in it for who can guess it.
(Editor’s note: Yes! Tail-pad, tee etc.)
Pipe and its line up is a meritocracy, one of the best representations of you get what you put into it and deserve. It was interesting to hear KK talk about not getting any respect out there but I can’t help and think that if she was anything like the women competing at pipe the other day, she didn’t deserve a wave or respect… Hell JJ was a Grom learning the lineup and putting time in, why is it that none of his female contemporaries did the same? he was a little squirt, a girl at the same age could have done the same. Look at Sierra.
With all this equality talk, this is one area that it needs to stop. The divide between the women and men is huge and putting them out there to waste waves is a joke and frankly and embarrassment to women surfing… How about they get out in the line up on a normal day and put the time in, I’m sure they’d get respect if they showed some level of consistency and dedication to that wave.
Assertiveness doesn’t come easy to women unless they are lesbians.
“The little tow-headed skate kid with the cool Mom and the deadbeat Dad, surfing Pipe since he was in Kindergarten, finally wears the crown that eludes him for so long.”
my god Longtom… utterly beautiful artistry of words right there… I think at this point the main reason to stay committed to watching these VALS destroy professional surfing and the WSL is to read your post-report/editorial all season…
Well, Pip certainly seems to be enjoying cooking at any rate…
The fact that you, a women surfer, couldn’t find the time to watch kinda says it all, no?
I think your logic is backwards. Pipe is on tour because (a good portion of) the men want to surf heaving barrels in competition, as well as freesurfing. Yes, Pipeline also has special status and significance but it has that status because part of surfing since the shortboard revolution has always been about proving you can ride heaving barrels (in fact, that desire to ride deeper and squarer barrels is a large part of why longboards were deemed insuffient).
You cannot say the same about the women. Perhaps they like the IDEA of it. Perhaps they would welcome the challenge if it were ever thrust on them, but if they really wanted it, they would be out there doing it already at Pipe, Teahupoo, the Box, Ours, Desert Point, Cloudbreak, P-Pass, Shipsterns, etc, just like the men are. There are, of course, notable exceptions but they are not the rule.
Now, I’m not saying the women will not be up to the challenge, or that they don’t deserve an event at these locations. I’m just saying you cannot claim the reason that very few women can ride big heavy barrels is that there are no big heavy barrels on the tour.
The only people that can progress female surfing is the female surfers , while idiots like Flick are championed for nude surfing , the female surfers choose to eye candy in their pussy strings rather than serious atheletes then fuck them they get what they deserve , laughed at.
You pose some interesting questions, which lead inevitably to: why don’t we scrap gender entirely in competitive Surfing, double the prizemoney (it aint my money either) and everyone’s a winner.
Yup. Seems he peeked with that jbay wave…. Family life seems to have taken a toll on his surfing
Male and Female surfing were poles apart until Lisa Anderson arrived on the scene. That’s when Surfer ran the famous cover “Lisa Anderson surfs better than you”. Geez if you go back and look at old surf movies (Bruce Brown era) they used to show women surfing with the footage sped up.
There’s always been a handful of women with cojones to go out in epic surf but that’s not the same as being a shit hot surfer. I can still remember the Pam Burridge / Jodie Cooper era (I think Margo Oberg might still have been on tour) and they were pretty much shit compared to the men.
What I saw at Pipe was there’s a huge gulf between the top couple of women and the rest. Holding the whole women’s comp at Pipe (or Teahupoo) would be insanely dangerous.
Horrible overs core. Compare it to gabes 5 in final, or pretty much any of the best tube rides of the event that all scored lower.
Great start to the season when the top 2 men in the surf world end up in the final. Coulda gone either way, and will. Woman seemed to prove their really not ready for pipe, tho its sure looking like the next generation of woman, now 12,13 Yr old girls, WILL be ready.
That footage of that girl charing in Indo, and Sierra Kerr’s aerial progression really have me excited about what the womens tour will be like in 5 or 10 years.
carissa might get the pipe bug after that backdoor barrel in the final and start hitting it every chance she gets. that could be nice.
*raised the question
begs is fine.
Justin is correct. Begging the question is a rhetorical device where the premise reiterates the claim that it’s trying to support. “John John is the best surfer because he surfs the best” would be begging the question.
No offence to longtom but no-one knows this stuff anymore and a lot of grammaticists have just given up. For example, ‘literally’ now means the opposite of what it’s supposed to mean (a lot of people who use the term ‘literally’ really mean ‘figuratively’).
you’re totally right.
the death of Ivan Ilyich.
tolstoy.
how is this article like “the death of ivan ilyich”?
Wisdom of death = wisdom of meth?
I ripped the opening sentence off and changed a couple of words.
Also: During the long and painful process of dying, Ivan dwells on the idea that he does not deserve his suffering because he has lived rightly. If he had not lived a good life, there could be a reason for his pain; but he has, so pain and death must be arbitrary and senseless. As he begins to hate his family for avoiding the subject of his death, for pretending he is only sick and not dying, he finds his only comfort in his peasant boy servant, Gerasim, the only person in Ivan’s life who does not fear death, and also the only one who, apart from his own son, shows compassion for him. Ivan begins to question whether he has, in fact, lived a good life.
In the final days of his life, Ivan makes a clear split between an artificial life, such as his own, which masks the true meaning of life and makes one fear death, and an authentic life, the life of Gerasim. Authentic life is marked by compassion and sympathy, the artificial life by self-interest. Then “some force” strikes Ivan in the chest and side, and he is brought into the presence of a bright light. His hand falls onto his nearby son’s head, and Ivan pities his son. He no longer hates his daughter or wife, but rather feels pity for them, and hopes his death will release them. In so doing, his terror of death leaves him, and as Tolstoy suggests, death itself disappears.
I think Kelly Slater, Pro Surfing and the WSL.
Mostly wanted to troll the anti-russian lit creeps.
Please continue the Russian lit references! I got sidetracked by the interview aspect of it. My guess, before finding your comment here, was the Grand Inquisitor scene in Brothers Karamazov. I also considered We because of the One State and its parallel to the WSL’s corpo-speak?
I’ll watch some of it over Xmas.
the 36 people who WANT to watch the women agree with you….
hiya, once more, as i’m online for a few min’z, on my ol’ Toshiba, ok?
i dig competition for what it is, thee thrill of victory, the agony of defeat.
that said, most every thing has been seen/done before, in competition,
in free~style trainin’, err, in practice, so ALLLL performances are judged,
on what thee bar has been set at prevously, by either a man or a female.
Felipoe Toledo sux at waves that jack up quickly, as do many another Top 32-er,
as do most gals on Tour also, in my humble opinion.
Did you watch the 2 girlz Semi Finalz?
Did ya watch the 1st exchange between jjf + ke11y in menz Semi #1?
huge diff in barrel ridin’ capability, no matter, if they be 2 men or 2 women, right?
she won’t answer. but she knows. she’s not retarded.
Missed it yesterday, thanks LT. Caught up on the heats on demand.
The onscreen crew have an anti charisma.
If I understand correctly , for example in the Olympics, or tennis, or bodybuilding and a various arrange of activities around our globe, the women compete against the women and the men against the men. So the woman who beats the other woman becomes the women’s winner. She doesn’t have to then prove herself against the mens winner. Or did I miss something
One highlight reel is historical, the other is comical, to me.
The bit you missed was about equal pay.
and i’m thee kinda guy that used to watch any + all surf, on a b+w tv waaay back when i was a grom, mid~70’s, so i’ve seen Margo Oberg, Lynne Boyer, Rell Sunn, Jerico Poppler, + alllll thee other galz compete. Seen Megan bustin’ airz @ Rocky pt early morin’, in person too, early 2000’s…
So,
ah please, get back on topic to my og question, ok?
thankx, rw