Listen: World’s greatest big wave skier
Chuck Patterson swings in to discuss love, loss, Big Macs and
getting barreled at “The Place of Broken Skulls!”
By Chas Smith
Snitches get stitches.
Sycophancy in sporting media, media in general,
is par for the course. Surf journalism, a multiple rungs below
sporting media and on a whole different ladder than media in
general, is not immune, see Ashton Goggans, Yago Dora and Gerry
Lopez.
Whatever the case, this morning found David Lee Scales and I
across a larger but equally reclaimed wood coffee table from none
other than Chuck Patterson.
The all-around extreme sporting super hero that skied Mavericks
on Pete Mel’s day.
The same gently ruffled for that feat by stinkin’ David Lee
Scales.
Maybe me too but my goodness.
If Chuck Patterson ain’t what we all aim to be than I’ll never
surf journalism again.
A legend?
Better than Laird?
You decide.
And remember, my surf journalism hangs in the balance.
Listen here.
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Surfing’s Olympic Dream shatters as
Japanese government “privately concludes” Tokyo Olympics will be
cancelled; looks to secure 2032 Games!
By Derek Rielly
"Too difficult… I don't think it's going to
happen."
Revealed today news that the Japanese government is
looking for a “face-saving” way of announcing the 2021
Games, already postponed for one year, will have to be
cancelled due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
According to a senior member of the ruling coalition, there
is agreement that the Games, already postponed a year, are doomed.
The aim now is to find a face-saving way of announcing the
cancellation that leaves open the possibility of Tokyo playing host
at a later date. “No one wants to be the first to say so but the
consensus is that it’s too difficult,” the source said.
“Personally, I don’t think it’s going to happen.”
Publicly, Japan’s prime minister remains bullish and says
holding the Games will be “proof of human victory against the
coronavirus.”
Were you excited by surfing appearing at an Olympic Games?
Last January, our tour correspondent, Steve “Longtom” Shearer
described his feelings,
Tell me, how pumped are you on surfings Olympic debut, on a
scale of one to ten where one is you’d rather shoot heroin in the
eyeball than watch and ten is cashing in your kids education fund
to be there in person?
I’m hovering between a four and a six. Maybe a high seven if
Italo surfs it in cut-offs during a typhoon swell.
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Scandal rocks World Surf League as chief
executive admits to wearing wetsuit backwards on health and
wellness podcast: “Put it on backwards, like most people do, zipper
in the front…”
By Chas Smith
"Hey, you should go be with all the cool
guys..."
Our World Surf League leadership has done an
absolutely incredible job mocking the pastime it seeks to
promote.
Then there was the legendary Beth Greve, the League’s Chief
Commercial Officer, who made herself a household name by innovating
by somehow inserting her surfboard fins backwards.
Now, of course, we have Chief Executive Officer Erik “ELo” Logan
who rides a standup paddle board, singlehandedly destroyed the
just-re-launched 2020/21 Championship Tour by contracting Covid-19
in Hawaii but also used to put his wetsuit on backwards too.
He was recently a guest on the Health Gig podcast where he said,
“Moved to Manhattan Beach (California) and bought a house five
blocks away from the beach. Now, go back in time, Chuck the Duck,
landlocked kid from Oklahoma who wouldn’t even go into a lake if I
couldn’t see my feet. It’s like, ‘If I can’t see the bottom, I’m
not going in.’ And so, my wife at the time bought me a wetsuit when
I was 41, for my 41st birthday as kind of a joke. It was sort of
like, ‘Hey, you should go be with all the cool guys…’ so I put the
wetsuit on, put it on backwards of course like most people do,
zipper goes in the back, not in the front, it’s a great picture. So
I put the wetsuit on and walked into the ocean…”
Fabulous but is it really true that most people put on wetsuits
backwards for the first time?
Is this a truism of our little world?
I saw a frustrated younger 20ish boy sitting on the beach, two
years ago, with his wetsuit on backwards but this is the only
example in-the-wild I can recall.
Are there more at your local?
Most at Manhattan Beach?
Much to ponder.
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Virginia lawmakers consider banning wake
surfing as lakeside homeowners grow furious over child abuse: “The
waves take our grandkids and slam them into the dock!”
By Chas Smith
We got trouble...
And the golden age of surfing is officially
over. History will record 2015-2021 as a jubilee wherein the
Pastime of Kings grew legs and wandered inland, making new homes in
cow towns, protected wetlands and deserts as wave making
technologies exploded in viability. Also lakes where new boats,
fitted with impressive cavities, could lower themselves into the
water and create large breakers for which wake surfers can ride
without rope or care.
Very cool.
Except, as stated, over.
Lakefront homeowners in Virginia have realized that surfing is a
wayward lifestyle that leads to many societal problems including,
but not limited to, child abuse.
Rhonnie Smith, a grandfather who was recently profiled in the
Roanoke Times, is one such lakefront homeowner. His grandchildren
used to love to play in the water just outside his house at Smith
Mountain Lake until those dreaded wake surfers came to town. Now,
when they pass, “large waves” slam into the shoreline and the dock.
Once during this past summer, Smith said, his grandchildren were
playing down in the water by the dock, and the waves threw the
children into the dock.
“We pull the children out of the water any time a wakesurfing
boat goes by and won’t let them back in until the boats have left
the area.”
Other homeowners are equally furious and have lobbied the
Virginia General Assembly to pass a law that will keep the bastards
far away. Or at least 200 feet from the shoreline.
Del. Kathy Byron, R-Bedford, who represents lake residents, told
the Assembly the legislation “Will keep people involved in water
sports at Smith Mountain Lake and those who enjoy the lake at their
docks safe, it will reduce the erosion of property and mitigate the
destruction of property.”
Many chimed in with horror stories of damage done to homes and
families. Thousands upon thousands of dollars spent. Children sent
to the hospital and rehab.
No one testified to the committee in opposition to the bill.
Very smart for we, here, know that once surfing takes root it is
nearly impossible to root out and will very soon rot the soul.
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Iconic surf shack bought for $48,000 during
first-ever man-on-man surfing contest sells for $7 million!
By Derek Rielly
Slice of history to be bulldozed to make way for
"standout family home."
In 1920, a modest wooden house was built at number 10
Goodwin Terrace, Burleigh Heads, a joint typical of the period,
elevated to snatch northerly breezes, a covered wrap-around balcony
to shelter from the pretty damn relentless Gold Coast
sun.
(Correction: An overnight email from John Lambert, the
great-grandson of the man who built the house, reveals Stubbies
winner Harris actually lived in the joint next door and that the
house wasn’t sold in 1977, despite records suggesting otherwise,
but was bequeathed to his dad from his great aunt that year.
Lambert writes, “Because of our ongoing Burleigh connections &
friends, this article hits all my family’s social media and
its pretty insulting to read something so woefully researched
and ludicrous in its sloppy facts. We have to deal with the
fact its being knocked down and then also deal with your
fiction! C’est la vie!”)
Now, a little after the hundredth anniversary of the house’s
build, the iconic surf shack has traded for seven-million dollars,
almost two-and-a-half mill more than it sold for in 2016.
The couple who bought the joint had been trying to buy it for
the past three years. After the last refusal by the owner to sell,
the pair bought a six-mill penthouse a little further down the
street.
The agent that sold ‘em the penthouse then convinced the
owner of 10 Goodwin to sell ‘em the house, too, for seven mill.
A nice little pair of boltholes, although the historic house is
gonna be bulldozed to make way for a “standout family home.”
Once one of the grittier parts of the Gold Coast, third in
shittiness behind Coolangatta and perennial winner Palm Beach, has
been transformed into a paradise for investors, including the
Chinese man who bought the Old Burleigh Theatre Arcade, the former
home of Surfing Life magazine, for eighteen-mill.