Minnesota man, self-identifying VAL,
becomes hero overnight by saving drowning man, dog: “I believe that
it was totally a God thing to have us be surfing and staying out
that day and not coming home when we did!”
By Chas Smith
Beautiful.
Unlikely heroes are the best sorts of heroes
and about this there can be no debate. Simple men and women not
chasing fame and glory but when the bell sounds, when needed, jump
into action without considering the consequences but we simply must
meet Darby Voeks, 26, of Minnesota.
The local news channel describes him as a surfer, and he was in
fact, in Duluth to surf on the day fate knocked but he, himself,
does not consider himself such as “he’s still new to the
sport.”
Have you ever heard such self-awareness in a VAL?
Such beautiful clarity?
A hero already but the story gets better.
Voeks was at Park Point in Duluth, enjoying a run of early
spring swell when he decided to catch one last wave.
“I was supposed to head home to meet up with my girlfriend for
dinner and I thought, ‘Just one more wave. Maybe just one more
wave.’ I know that what good surfers do is they’ll walk down the
pier … and they’ll jump off the pier and kind of get to the main
break without having to paddle all the way out there,” he said.
As he made his way down the pier a woman rolled up to him in a
wheelchair, frantic.
“I need help.” She pleaded. “Can you please help? Can you please
help? My dog is drowning in the water and I think my aide went in
after him.”
Voeks let his surfboard fall and sprinted to the end of the pier
where he looked and looked, seeing nothing, until a bellowing voice
filled the cool air, “HELP! HELP! I CAN’T SWIM!”
Voeks was able to get the man a life ring and hauled him to the
stairs.
Next, he spotted the dog and without a pause jumped into the
chop.
He swam over to the terrified pup and then swam her back back to
the pier, breathing heavily.
All safe and accounted for.
“There were way too many coincidences to just say, ‘Oh, it was
right place, right time. Lucky,'” He said. “I believe that it was
totally a God thing to have us be surfing and staying out that day
and not coming home when we did and wanting to stay out longer and
have me decide to just go one more wave, one more wave.”
The first responders have nominated Voeks for the prestigious
Duluth Citizen Partnership Award.
“You saved a life today. You saved a dog and you saved a
person’s life. We’re extremely grateful.”
World’s greatest VAL.
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The original comment by Noa Deane, who was a
mere four months into his post-teen life was ridiculed and
moralised by the usual suspects but has assumed a quiet staying
power and historical significance.
A brief history of Fuck The WSL: “The
backlash against billionaire-backed organisations like the WSL
acting as moral arbiters has legs”
By Longtom
The original comment by Noa Deane has assumed a
quiet staying power and historical significance.
Fascism is very topical right now, very hot, and I will
not throw two cents into the bubbling pot except to say anyone
interested in the phenomenon is obliged to read Chapter
51, page 201 of Vasily Grossman’s Life and Fate.
I don’t believe I’ve misqoted him or misrepresented his words.
If I have I’m sure he will correct me below the line.
I merely ask (apart from Medina’s revolt), what could be sexier
than a genuine recreational surfer revolt against the WSL
Answer: Nothing.
As for what is mere “pageantry” and what is authentic, we will
need five years to elapse before history can determine a judgement
on that question.
I believe, having witnessed it first hand, that the successful
recreational surfer revolt against the proposed WSL contest at
Lennox Head, will pass the authentic test.
The other, more performative gestures being championed by Dual
World Champion Tyler Wright, we will see.
I have an open mind on the question.
The revolt against the WSL comp at Lennox was about the
loveliest, most genuine, inclusive, spontaneous thing I’ve ever
witnessed in surfing. It united young and old, guys, gals, poor,
rich etc etc.
No-one sought to self-aggrandise or boost their profile. Their
was zero corporate sponsorship, virtue signalling or profit motive.
It wasn’t sponsored by Rip Curl, not supported by Nike. There were
no leaders, no followers.
I loves me a peasant revolt and this was about as pure an
uprising against devious corporate control as you can get. Right up
there with my fav uprising: the 1917 Kronsdadt Mutiny*.
Most beautifully, when it was done and dusted people put their
heads down, waxed up whips and went back to the business of shred,
without a skerrick of animosity.
By Prodan’s own measure, this was as good as it gets. It just so
happens the organisation he represents was the “oppressor”, and
thus surgically excised from his moral calculus.
Of course, much of the power and ready made branding of the
revolt came down to the already extant slogan, #FucktheWSL.
If Prodan and Carroll wish to come to grips with anything
counter-culture left in surfing, and stop chasing “sad echoes of
what was cool” then it’s sitting right there in front of their
noses via this simple slogan.
The response of the WSL to the overwhelming rec surfer revolt at
Lennox?
Yep. No surprise. Cone of silence.
Bit of bitchy sour grapes sniping from Fanning in his
“Getting Heated” ep with Ross.
The original comment by Noa Deane, who was a mere four months
into his post-teen life, was ridiculed and moralised by the usual
suspects but has assumed a quiet staying power and historical
significance.
It’s worth a minor examination.It’s a sliding doors moment.
Then CEO Paul Speaker only announced the changeover from the ASP
to the WSL on Sep 12 2014. At the time of Deane’s comments, the
Surfer Poll Awards in early December of the same year the
changeover hadn’t yet occurred.
It was still the ASP Pipe Masters.
If Deane had said “Fuck the ASP” the slogan would have dropped
stone dead into the deep, dark well of history.
Like other outdated slogans such as “It takes a Tour to make a
Title” and “world’s best surfers in the worlds best waves”.
How a twenty-year-old Deane was prescient enough to use the new
organisations name in his slogan will go down as one of the great
acts of future proofing what was left of the counter-cultural
spirit of revolt left in surfing.
Which was the whole point: Deane’s missile was aimed at the
corporatisation, the bland homogeneity of the Ziff takeover and
push to Middle America.
The immediate blowback for Deane was swift, but the usual
evangalizing nonsense missed the mark big time.
Fuck the WSL has endured, the blowback is long forgotten.
The results: Deane signed a five year 500K a year deal with
Volcom in Jan 2017, not quite the fuck-you money Dane got from
Quiksilver, but better than the deal for free wetsuits that Matty
Banting signed this year.
No one knows how this will play out.
But the backlash against corporates and billionaire-backed
organisations like the WSL acting as moral arbiters has legs, as
evidenced by the enduring appeal of Noa Deane’s deathless
phrase.
Woz might want to look in the mirror at its own social licence
before they ride the woke hobby horse into the future.
Or not.
*Sailors not peasants and brutally suppressed by the Red
Army.
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Listen: In stunning move, professional surf
fans rise up as one, choose Caio Ibelli as champion, seek to wrest
levers of control for The People™!
By Chas Smith
It's a revolution!
When your great-grandchildren look up at you
lovingly, eyes innocent, and ask “Where were you when The People™
regained control of professional surfing?” will you be able to
answer them “On the front lines, for you sweet one… On the front
lines for you.”
An important question because here, now, is our opportunity to
wrest the levers of power away from sullied interests, from private
equity firms and born-billionaires.
Project Ibelli was first floated on last week’s The
Grit! episode, a brilliant concept from a Boulder,
Colorado master of business administration who suggested a way
forward.
Have The People™ take ownership of a surfer, Caio Ibelli the
obvious choice as he was just recently dropped by Oakley and is the
only professional surfer to follow BeachGrit on Instagram,
amongst getting robbed in an injury wildcard kerfuffle and has the
ire of Gabriel Medina.
In stunning move, Chas Smith didn’t just jabber but reached out
to Caio after the show and received an encouraging response. David
Lee, per the norm, did the rest of the work.
PROJECT IBELLI evolved from years of witnessing a decline in
pro surfing’s chosen path and was spurned by a synchronicity of
current events: 1) Caio removing his marquee sponsor’s sticker from
his board after being dropped, and 2) the financial market coup
perpetuated by Redditors who exposed large hedge funds via the
GameStop stock pump. Herein, we immediately recognized an
opportunity for an epic controlled-disruption and social statement
to be carried out by The Grit! podcast community utilizing
grassroots tactics similar to the aforementioned melee on Wall
Street.
PROJECT IBELLI’S mission is to take back surfing by
crowd-funding support of our favorite surfers, individuals who
align with our core values and are often neglected or maligned by
“industry” support. To kick off PROJECT IBELLI, listeners of the
The Grit! podcast (and the community at large) will be given the
opportunity to crowdfund a cash deal to have The Grit! sticker
placed on the nose of Caio Ibelli’s boards for the
just-around-the-corner Newcastle event.
Want in?
There’s no minimum.
Every time he dips into the competitor’s area, World Surf League
CEO Erik Logan will be forced to recognize his gauzy dream has come
to this.
Haircut Inspiration profiles all 15 surfer
hairstyles, reveals secret to acquiring: “If you’re looking to rock
a surfer hairstyle, the first step is letting your hair grow
long!”
By Chas Smith
Very cool.
In a move that both surprised and delighted,
Haircut
Inspiration profiled the “surfer hairstyle” this
month, lovingly detailing each of the fifteen varietals.
The very popular style website placed the look in its “tousled
hairstyles” which are “purposefully messy, disheveled, and untidy,
but still look the part” and gave an etymological nod, revealing it
“takes its name from the stereotype of a hardcore surfer whose hair
has been bleached by the sun, soaked in salty sea waters, and
received minimal care” before divulging a long-held secret to
acquiring.
“How to get surfer hair? This goes without saying, but if you’re
looking to rock a surfer hairstyle, the first step is letting your
hair grow long. Be sure to resist the temptations to just ‘trim a
little off’ when your hair gets to an impractical length, as
otherwise, you’ll never quite manage to grow it long enough!”
Then it was off to the fifteen individual representations, in no
particular order.
-Wavy texture with high volume
-Messy bun and highlights
-Messy curls lying around
-The surfer messy hairstyle
-Touseled hairstyle
-Undercut surfer hairstyle
-Curly medium style
-Wet iconic surfer style
-Medium straight hair
-Shorter curly style
-Messy surfer hairstyle
-Where are the waves?
-Just outta waves
Fourteen and fifteen appear to be missing but could be greatest
surfer in the world Kelly Slater bald and cool mom
fab.
Which one do you have?
Good choice.
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Exclusive: Philippines-based “Global Head
of Talent” accidentally reveals two-time world champion John John
Florence’s surprise pivot away from professional surfing and the
shucking of his famous double-barrelled name!
By Derek Rielly
"A creative, brain-storming mastermind."
The Cebu-based Chief Operating Officer with recruitment
software bizHire With Leohas
accidentally revealed the career pivot of two-time world champ John
John Florence in a recent post on LinkedIn.
K Childs, a certified hypnotherapy practitioner and co-founder
of various start-ups, made the post five days ago.
An examination of the post also reveals Stephanie Gilmore, a
seven-time world champion and Gabriel Medina, world champ twice,
also vying for work on the platform, although both appear under
pseudonyms, Anastasia Demetriou and Lucas Grey respectively.
Medina also reveals he won’t work for anything under forty-five
k.
No work yet on whether Florence, Medina and Gilmore will appear
on the remainder of this year’s truncated world tour if
applications are accepted.