And other important thoughts.
I haven’t written a BeachGrit headline this short, this to the point, in years. I love a convoluted dance, much to my own detriment, and always have. Derek Rielly used to shake his head in frustration, and probably still does, at my accidental burying of leads to be cute and funny to myself and myself only.
But this, here, is honest.
Hemingway’s one true sentence.
Important surf voice Sam George’s recent suggestion that the problem with surfing, these days, is not choked lineups but rather grumpy locals is dumb, rude, wrong, dressed like an eight-year-old and he can, should, suck it.
David Lee Scales spoke about this, during our weekly meeting, and also about the Ashton Gogganses.
Very funny.
Caio Ibelli is going to have “For The People™” in the middle of his board before Margs.
Do you like?
Any better suggestions?
The People™ shall buoy him and he shall win.
Brave punters should put their money down now. I bet there are fine odds but not for long.
Listen here.
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jam on, boyz+girlz…
https://www.youtube.com/wat…
Was it Matt or Sam who wanted to be a Navy seal and wrote a really lame story about it in Surfer?
I devoured Surfer Mag in that era. Tracks was much more punk and irreverent, especially before they added staples, but the photos and layout were crap. Surfer had glossy pages and better photos but the Matt and Sam George articles and editorials were always just fucking weird.
Ben was a better editor, it’s just a shame he lost his marbles afterwards.
It was Matt. He failed the test too.
IIRC he failed the test that you had to pass just to be allowed to apply for the Seal entry program.
Apparently its harder to become a Seal, than a Green Beret or a Army Ranger, at least he tried.
If you get through BUD/S, you are gnar.
No two ways about it.
I used to walk from Sano to Middles along the beach at Pendleton.
There were Marine Recon guys who were fearless – until it come to the ocean.
A lot of them just didn’t get it, didn’t like it, didn’t want anything to do with it.
But if you aren’t accustomed to the ocean, it is scary.
https://www.youtube.com/wat…
No that was whatshisface interviewing Matt about going into the SEAL program. If memory serves it was called, Out of the Blue And Into the Gray.
If memory further serves, Matt was doing good in the program and was team leader of The Quiet Storm. But he had a bad ankle from leaping off the stage during the Hot Buns contest at the Allentown Wave Pool contest way back when. (Warshaw? Any0ne? Anyone?)
The Hot Buns contest was for chicks but Matt won. But he broke his ankle when he leapt off the stage and that lead to him washing out of the SEAL program.
Bad ankles no bueno when leaping out of airplanes and that.
Funny when you watch docos and videos about the SEALs and BUD/S training, these guys leap out of airplanes and run 100 miles with a heavy pack and do night dives off San Clemente Island, but the thing that picks them off as much as anything else is just being cold.
And it is a shame Ben lost his marbles. He had talent.
https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
The best story about jumping out of planes is when they had the squad of Ghurkas lined up to volunteer to jump out of a plane from 200m into enemy territory (this height may be wrong but you get the gist). Lots of long faces from the soldiers. Finally one Ghurka steps forward and say yes, he will do it but could they instead jump from 100m so that he had a better chance of surviving the landing? The Ghurkas thought they were jumping without parachutes!
https://foreignpolicy.com/2…
Story goes that during WWII, the British Indian Army planned to drop a company of the toughest Gurkhas behind Japanese lines to help stop the oncoming invaders. A British major explained the plan to the Gurkha sergeant major, saying: “We’ll drop you from 600 feet.”
The sergeant major talked to his troops, then went back to the major: “Sah, the men say 600 feet too high. They want to be dropped lower.” The British major said: “All right, sergeant major, we’ll make it 500 feet.”
The sergeant major spoke to his troops again, and again went back to the major: “Sah, the men say 500 feet is still too high and want to be dropped lower.” The major said: “Sergeant major, we could go down to 400 feet to drop you but that wouldn’t leave enough time for the parachutes to open.”
Sergeant major: “Ooohhh, paraaaachutes???”
By the way, the Gurkhas were the most decent people I encountered operating checkpoints in Iraq — professional but friendly.
white lives matter is too blatant.
Brown lives matter will probably be subtle enough to be lost in translation.
Tanned lives matter would troll quite nicely.
Seriously though, if he really wants to up his profile, he should put:
Uighur Lives Matter
It will out virtue signal Tyler and generate huge media headlines.
Not enuff body cams worn in norwest china to make it fashionable
‘Apocalypse’ -etymology
I am trapped 6 feet under in a vault in Ketchum, Idaho.
Was concerned about an eternity of loneliness until I discovered BG and Pornhub Free Premium.
This reminds me, way too much, of that asinine FWD thing your buddy Ashole Gargleballs was doing over at Stab Me in the Butt. You can do much better Chuckie
If Caio was a horse he’d be glue
No mention of the greatest heat in pro surfing history: 0.8 KI – a gross oversight.
Didn’t you (Chas) just cover this about four days ago? with the same picture of Sam on the cover piece?
I did! This was “more” to a story that didn’t really develop.
There’s some saying that the George brothers are actually half brothers, and possibly have different parents, possibly not.
Dunno if there’s any truth in it or not, but they look a bit different, have different hair-dos and live in different countries (like the British royal Princes) so they may or may not be unfounded rumours.
A bit of investigative journalism might find out if it’s true or not. And if there’s any truth to the suggestion maybe heard in Santa Barbara that they’ll soon be sitting down for a chat with Oprah…
What in the world?
Back again. I thought we covered that.
Always thought that Matt shaved his head.
Maybe we should just take them for who they are today.
It developed a warm swelling feeling in my heart tho. That mattered to me. Cuz his claims are absolute fucking rubbish, and for them he can go suck it.
I see you are criticizing Leonardo Fioravanti again. Can we meet? I wanna make you an offer you can’t refuse.
Hey, I can criticize Leo, if I get to know The Truth.
Leave the guns, take the cannoli.
Chas, if I didn’t picture you supping a strawberry daiquiri whilst resting your Louboutin loafers on the head of the man slave that prepared it for you and typing this idly with one limp hand, it would be far easier to accept your alleged commitment to The People.
I think Chas already covered this issue about 3 days ago with the same picture of Sam on the cover piece.
Its called “more as the story develops”
“more”
“Manfred? Manfred! I’ve though of another funny! Take this down will you?”
Can’t The People also be effete ne’rdowells?
You’re the Lucien Carr of the Beat off generation. Minus the looks
murder still possible.
Just putting in a request for a POV and/or postmortem report on Surfline’s attempt to label this upcoming south as “La Bomba” and producing unnecessary content around it…
Since when did south swells get names? Better be the biggest south in ten years. Signed up for the free trial and places like lowers are less crowded than some of the terrible surf spots up here north of the gate, amazingly enough.
Edit. Even Slater commented on Tudors page about how lame Surfline is today.
Think they’re trying to be like the Weather Channel who started naming winter storms…
Here, every fucking swell is the “Swell of the Century”.
We’ve had about 4 of them in the last 8 years. Go figure…
Up the Swell of Eons!
That was the one where Kong was on the news saying how all time Noosa was going to be. Then surfed a break a bit further south with his mates from the CT who were following the swell focus while waiting for the Gold Coast Pro to kick off. Fair play. It meant about 80% more people than normal went to Noosa and left him and his mates alone…
gonna be a long century
We are in the coughing twenties
Yeah that cracked me up. 2 feet and blown out in Sandy Eggo today. I saw the live feed from Puerto though. Fucking pumping it is.
“For the people! who appreciate advanced intermediate surfing”
Chas, my prodigal son.
Come home to papa
Papa…???….
Not Hemingway. Hunter S. Thompson.
Chas you should do a story about how North County is cloning your style. Was down briefly to check in on my elderly parents, and did a dozen double-takes of skinny guys bleached blonde with your “haircut” and clothes. At first sight yes but then none of them you.
Flattering being a trend setter? Certainly makes you harder to murder ….
It’s a Spartacus moment.
Handy.
Probably you haven’t noticed being close to the subject, but I only return to North County occasionally, and to me seemingly suddenly your look is edging toward ubiquitous.
It’s a good look at least, much better than try-hard hipster haberdashery
For Caio:
“для людей™
Ласкаво просимо до вальпокаліпсису”
upvote based on previous works to help disguise my ignorance.
I got the TM part. The other stuff, not so much