"I'll take a 20-foot wave everyday for the next ten days."
Surfing’s modern renaissance is entirely undeniable, even to the grumpiest of locals, the grouchiest of saltwater kinks. Our game is officially in the Olympics, Duke Kahanamoku re-incarnated as a handsome Japanese-by-way-of-Huntington Beach boy, more participants splashing around than ever before and on Mr. Pipeline foam boards, purchased exclusively at Costco.
Very famous people carrying this mantle including Jonah Hill and star of new Hulu documentary Adam Neumann.
You may remember the latter as the very rich founder of WeWork, investor in Laird’s SuperFoods and big wave maven, once breaking a finger on an 18-foot wave.
The most important man in surf?
But only recently was it revealed that Neumann actually controls 20-foot waves.
New video of him in front of a room, preparing for an upcoming appearance, telling the group, “I’m preparing for the world show right now so I hope my hair is good. Ok. This is harder than 20-foot waves. (room laughs). You know why? Because I control the 20-foot waves. I’ll take a 20-foot wave everyday for the next ten days.”
Then he does a little bottom turn with his hand.
Though what is the most extremely cool thing you have ever revealed about your own surfing?
In high school, I once told a girl at Christian summer camp that I was sponsored by Coos Bay’s local surf shop because they gave me a t-shirt.
It was actually a dive shop that had two used surfboards.
I bought the t-shirt.
Controlling 20-foot waves much more extremely cool.