Joy is resistance!”
Two days ago, Professor Carla Zamora from The Surf Institute, a longboard surf consultancy, used Instagram to launch a scud into the VAL kingdom, at those vulnerable adult learners who’d gotten to crowding Malibu.
It read, in part,
Correct me if I’m wrong, but just two decades ago being “from Malibu” carried an air of prestige. We were masters of our spot, encouraged, even pressured, to surf at the highest caliber possible and given no leeway or forgiveness when we faltered. It was chaotic then, too, but there was a method to the madness; control to the chaos. Rules were not just established, they were enforced. If you publicly cried about it, you felt it even harder.
Fast forward 20 years. A pandemic singlehandedly changes people’s lives and increases the surfing population by astronomical proportions. As an outdoor activity relatively safe from exposure, 2020 saw nearly every other Joe take up surfing and every other Schmoe become a surf coach. Young adults already versed in the sport, begin flocking in droves to park, no, camp, in our lot for days on end. (Note: this has been a problem prior to COVID). Photographers and videographers arrive with their own talent to rape and pillage the waves, shunning the existing talent who have paid their dues.
Please join me Tuesday 5/25 4p at The Wall to discuss, create, and implement a strategy to take back our home.
We didn’t go, natch, but one woman who did, BIPOC surfer Jae Bella wasn’t sold on the concept.
Good morning to everyone except the white woman who tried to hold a meeting yesterday in Malibu to discuss how to make outsiders feel less welcome and less safe being there.
According to her, people she doesn’t consider “locals” are not doing a good enough job of “acknowledging her existence, let alone her local ‘status’..” and photographers are showing up with new surfers to “rape and pillage” the waves. She’s so upset at this because she has declared that she and the “locals” have “mastered” the “sport.” She called a meeting bc she “cannot and will not let guests dictate the state of her ‘home’…” yes. Her call to action for this little gathering was to encourage the “locals” to “take back their home.” Bihhh are you a dolphin? Because NO.
As much as she wants to make Malibu great again, needless to say she did not keep that same energy offline, and said not one of these things at her little meeting last night, which we attended.
Friendly reminder that localism=racism. Not gonna spend time unpacking that right now, but today is another day where joy is resistance. And for the record, we’ll be at Malibu, or wherever else our hearts desire, smiling, happy and free. Connecting with the ocean and earth that belongs to no one but god. Taking up space. At peace and unbothered.
Comments on the post were almost entirely positive, localism equals racism etc.
Indicative reactions.
“Beautiful photos, send that lady love and peace”
“She and her wrinkled raisin eyes could not contain nor comprehend this level of Beauty and Glory in a wetsuit coming at her all early 9in the morning in her precious ‘Bu. Work ALL of it my Sis. You look so amazingly glorious in that sea.”
“1. You’re amazing, powerful and beautiful. 2. Fuck that bitch. Hell fucking no!! 3. Thank you for speaking on this!! Wishing you a love and joy filled day!”
A rare dissenter.
“Get better at surfing before you can saying you fuckin’ popollo kook. You don’t surf. You’re not a surfer. You take pictures of yourself floundering around in one-foot shorebreak. Stop labelling everything as racism cuz you’re black. You’re not a surfer. You’re a poser. You’re like scooter kids at the skatepark but worse cuz you think your opinion actually matters.”
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How can this kook call someone racist when she starts her “statement” with a race related label? This holier than thou kooks are beyond stupid
Her writing super sucks too…
I am a local hear me roar
This is my turf now even if it was the natives’ before
I will protect my land with my scowl and slashed tires
These are my waves now, nobody can take them away from me
Except the barney’s thirst for the sea
When you leave your home you aren’t indigenous any more
Anyone who thinks “localism = racism” has no clue what localism is. My home break has locals of all colors and creeds. One of the most respected heavy hitters is an asian woman.
A local is someone who has some reverence of surf culture. They participate in their communities, help out with beach clean ups, and have respect for the salty old men and women that have surfed the spot since before we were born. Anyone can be a local if you put enough blood sweat and tears into a spot. None of that has to do with race. But don’t think because you picked up surfing in December 2020 (Jae) you have a right to the same level of respect as someone who has been surfing the same break for +20 years. You have to fully dedicate yourself to earning it.
Just my experience. Feel free to disagree.
Hmm, thank you. Then NonJohn may be classified as a unipoc.
https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
Courtesy of Joel Jitsu
Classic,my favourite is screaming out”PUNCH HIM IN THE FACE!”mid round,during a quiet moment in a boxing match.
If localism is applied equally to everyone not considered local regardless of color then racism cannot be proven. Stick to the issue at hand, people claiming domain over a stretch of public beach.
Nowadays everything is racist, sexist or something else with “ist” at the end ….
Where is Allen Sarlo when you need him???
Still there.. still getting his waves.. still ripping..
Well, he should Also burn this Jae kook girl…
ps. why is she a white woman instead of just a woman, or should we not got there
Touché…
Yuck. NonJohn is generally smart enough, but what’s a Bipoc? It sounds like it relates to acne. Is it short for two pockets? Does it mean someone who likes both flavors of Pocky Sticks?
WHAT IS BIPOC?
It seems this chick likes to celebrate herself as much as the other one. They’re both toxic.
“Connecting with the ocean and earth that belongs to no one but god”. does this mean the wsl needs to get permits from the local church or do they have a direct line to the big guy?
A direct line to the Big Girl .? … Fatty , I have been pondering this for about 10 seconds and hypothetically if god did exist then the Holy Trinity is probably not father son and Holy Ghost ….. but he / she / it …. all different …. all together ?
“God (They/Their)”
Well done big H …. Animists , Polytheists and monotheists will all be happy ? But probably not with each other ….
I don’t think god surfed. or he wouldn’t have created getting the legrope between your toes on the wave of the day
Lower case g or capital G.. there’s a distinction.
At this point, choosing vanilla ice cream over chocolate will be considered racism.
https://images.app.goo.gl/L…
Saying localism = racism hurts your cause.
Look, if you do not have great BB skills, you don’t go to the top court in Brooklyn and try to run game. Same applies to the surf.
I have every right to paddle out at Pipe and try to get my share. But I’m not doing that because right now it’s out of my league.
Have some fucking self awareness for chrissake.
And btw, by wife and kids skin is as dark or darker than Bella’s
self awareness downs get insta likes.
You don’t always have the right to paddle out at Pipe. The lifeguards do a lot of regulating.
True, but I think ya gets me drift. Apply to any well know spot.
Not sure why these newbies want everyone to see their poo stance just before they fumble and fall over the handlebars.
When did surfboards with handles become a thing? Surfing is not about ease of use.
pretty sure its old technology from when real surfers carved their own boards from hand cut trees, this labour and carrying the boards to the water gifted surfers all the buff bodies associated with surfing. that is why I am a fat fuck.
“Surfing at the highest caliber”. At Malibu? Turn it up love.
Dora ( definitely does not ) LIVES ….
Dora Lives Matters
If only these ladies could invent a GIDGET or a Gadget ,like a time machine and return to Malibu , pre 1966 , when it was still relevant to the World of Surfing ? ( with the exception of those souls who surf it )