Dreams within dreams.
There are many understandable critiques of Japan-by-way-of-Huntington-Beach’s Kanoa Igarashi. For one, he celebrates weird, mouth open, screams flowing out neither primal nor deep, arms pumping like a father of the bride dancing to YMCA.
For two, he seems fake and not even a deep fake. Like a robot who was built to be talented and handsome and polite but built too well and therefore never considered because it is clearly artificial.
A surfing Stepford Wife.
And as surfing’s grand Olympic debut draws nearer and nearer, Igarashi has drawn more and more spotlight. I have read many of the interviews, watched too, and never considered anything other than how on message he keeps. Never a slip, never a falter, never a new bit of insight, only perfect flowing from a gleaming white tooth’d mouth… until just now.
In a new and cinematic profile for Outside Magazine, the critically-acclaimed Daniel Duane plunges beneath the plastic veneer and reveals truths that I have never stopped to consider. You must read Is Kanoa Igarashi the LeBron of Surfing? in its entirety but I would like to briefly discuss the notion of Igarashi being only a chimera of his parents dream.
You know the story, Igarashi’s mother and father pursing aerobics careers in Japan, conceive, think “How cool would it be for our child to be a professional surfer?” and fulfill that dream by moving to Huntington Beach, waking Kanoa up at 3:00 am to drive him to surf contests etc.
Igarashi, in the retelling, is only awed by his parents’ sacrifices. There is no bitterness, no frustration about being the vessel for someone else’s fantasy, and regarding this, Duane writes:
One might argue that this particular ship—Kanoa living out Tsutomu’s dream—had sailed quite a long time before. But that would also require admitting that fathers and mothers have been putting their own dreams onto children from time immemorial, that a father could imbue a kid with a dream worse than life as a pro surfer, and that nobody becomes as good of a surfer as Igarashi without an authentic hunger of his own.
Ah, “fathers and mothers putting their dreams onto children from time immemorial” is a good nut and caused me to pause deeply in order to consider my own relationship with dreaming and parenthood. Your own relationship too. The vast majority of parents dream at least something for their children beyond sitting like a blob and recreating TikTok videos and try to push them along the way. How much is too much, though? And what if the parents’ and child’s dream is truly the same?
A dream within a dream like Inception?
What if dreams are actually folded into the DNA?
The chicken/egg business of that can never be solved, but, as it relates to Igarashi, it was the first time in maybe ever that I’ve ever paused and considered really anything at all.
Duane rounds out the profile with a stray thought from Chas Smith, “editor of the heinously irresponsible surf tabloid Beach Grit,” that the Tokyo Games are likely to be the apex for Igarashi. “Because any surfer who is worth his salt and reasonable,” Smith says, “looks at all those Brazilians on tour and realizes he is not ever going to beat those guys and be world champion. I think Kanoa is rightly looking at this moment”—when he will represent Japan in the Olympics, the most-watched sporting event on earth—“and thinking, This is when I can be, honest to goodness, for a few days, the biggest athlete on earth.”
True?
I think yes.
A bit of quote inception there
I still don’t get why Glenn Hall didn’t try to qualify for Ireland. All he had to do was place higher than a bunch of fairly average QS surfers at the surfing games.
I miss being high.
End
Haha fuck what a combo. Jacked up US military VALs in a distant land. Some of the islands between Okinawa and Kyushu have good waves, like Tanegashima and Amami. Never surfed in Okinawa though.
Quinoa is so robotic and vanilla he makes Joe Turdpel seem exciting and controversial in comparison.
Igarashi’s interview with Stab, when he confessed that as a kid, he dreamed of being a superstar, “like LeBron, Ronaldo, Odell Beckham Jr., … private jets and nice cars, designer clothes, and world travel.” …another hard-hitting exposé from the always-responsible
venice beachsydney boys’ paywallFinals weds 7:30am USA channel. Early rounds live streamed on NBC olympics web page
I’ll just wait on the BG break down, and subsequent thrashing in the comment section.
What an incredible pic.
I don’t go for the thermal lining. Sits on you like a big diaper.
Also, 60 deg winters in Aus sound dreamy. When I transition to a 3/2 from a 5/4, I feel like a naked gymnast.
Jajaja! “editor of the heinously irresponsible surf tabloid Beach Grit,” You know he lovvvvves being name-checked that gloriously! Makes me proud to be a reader/heckler!
I got 2 kids under 5. Going to bed with any more than 3 beers under my belt and I’m fucked the next day. 3am? No chance!
I liked this one myself: “The crowd went wild as contest judges tallied fractional wave scores and
announcers drawled out color commentary in the nasal surf-bro twang
that seems to be their only real job requirement.”
“This is when I can be, honest to goodness, for a few days, the biggest athlete on earth.”
Umm, I always thought keeping a low profile was the best line to take as a surfer.
“The rider of waves must be a humble man–to maximize the forces– he must minimize himself”.
P.S.
I wouldn’t trust anything Daniel Duane says regarding surfing, he started surfing as a Val in his twenties, he never went thought that important grommet stage, he got kinda freaked out while learning to surf when he saw “kooks go home” written on the steps to the beach, (I think it scarred his Val psyche a little), and he had to ‘binge read’ books on surf history to find out about surfing’s past,
Something just doesn’t feel right about this guy and surfing.
Hiroto Ohara has a chance to win a medal (and ‘buy some cars’).
If he does win, will Ireland claim him as a son of the Emerald Isle ?
No mate, Hiroto is from Queensland
They started cosplay in the 90’s.
Kanoa wants to be hollywood popular like Jonah.
Jonah wants to be athletically jacked like Kanoa.
Kajonah will never harpoon his white whale, but 7-11 will also never run out of hydrogen peroxide.
It’s the journalist “nod”….
Some unkindly curmudgeonly types might even call it a giant self-wank ….
Haha what fucking poppycock bilge some of that is. His dad was the first to surf Shidashita? Fuck me, it’s 90 minutes from Tokyo. His dad’s what, in his 50s? So he reckons noone had ever surfed Shidashita before 1980? Give yourself a samurai chop you flop. The JPSA circuit started in 1981. There’s guys down at my local reefs in bumfuck Hicksville Japan that have been surfing these slabs since the 70s. And tales of guys before them. But old man Igarashi reckons he was the first to surf a break 90 minutes from Tokyo? Jeezus Christ. And the writer not only believed him, but talked it up? Yeah, nah.
No wonder poor Kanoa is so confused…
What I find odd, is none of my Japanese friends in Chiba know who the f he is!? I think he served me at an outdoor ramen kitchen in Shibuya.
Kanoa or the dad? I reckon pretty much every surfer here knows Kanoa. They’re a tad more tight-lipped and typically Japanese silent on whether they consider him “Japanese” or not, though…can’t be too harsh on Iggy, however, coz every other fucking sport ropes in any cunt they think can help them win
Papa turncoat. Claiming he’s the groundbreaking duke of onigiti surfing in japan…..
Can’t say I know anything about him, really. Back in the early noughties I surfed that stretch from Kujukurihama/Shidashita every weekend but my Japanese was too shit to understand much of anything. Haven’t been back there for about 15 years now.
Regarding the old man, usually people who talk themselves up with nonsense bring themselves down with truth…
You know your Chiba prefecture. Does the name Will Cyrus ring a bell?
Nah, can’t say I do. Bill, yeah, Will no! Just drove out from town and surfed Katagai mainly, though I heard they extended the jetty way out and it blocks off the fishing harbour now? Used to be a great little right wedge that bounced off it. Ross Butson surfed there a lot. If not there mostly Ichinomiya down to Shidashita. Had a surfer girl back then so mostly drove out together, surfed together then drove back home and got drunk in Tokyo.
Club Yellow for the beans, and Charleston(by the graveyard)for the whiskey in Roppongi. Ripped my wetsuit the winter of ’92. Try finding a wetsuit in Japan in the 90’s for a bloke 6’3″, 200lbs. Surfed Japan winter in a springer for a month. Onjuku, Katsuura, Hebara, and of course Tsurigasaki.
I went out to Malibu and watched Andy beat Kelly back in whatever it was, 2006 maybe? That southern stretch down to Kamogawa and Wada has some really good waves, eh. Fucken mission from Tokyo though and the tolls gouge you if you wanna get there in less than 3 hours. Then double it for the journey home. The drive back made the beer at the izakayas taste good though. Happoshu, the classy man’s beer….
Best eating/health time in my life.
Katagai still works. Nice long left and short right at north end but dominated by longboarders. They found a headless body there a few years back.
The one I can’t work out is all the Tongans in the Japanese Rugby team.
If you’ve ever watched litmus you can watch a clearly stoned Joel Fitzgerald banging on about how his dad was one of the first to surf just about anywhere. It’s cringeworthy.
As someone who was published on this very site it warms my heart to know that I contributed…even if just a VERY little bit to the heinous irresponsibleness.
Never in my life (My Journey™?) did I expect such an accolade.
I concur!
I don’t follow it closely enough to know who the favorites are, should be fun to watch. Thanks for the info.