Breaking: Greatest country rockabilly song inspired by the work of a surf journalist ever recorded explodes on unsuspecting public!

Art.

I will tell you what, you gang here, you all are the greatest collection of grumpy locals, anti-depressive quit-litters, open thread comment livers on this whole dang planet and regularly put a tear in my eye. Last week, as you may or may not know, my fourth book was loosed into the world. Blessed are the Bank Robbers tells the story of my Cousin Danny, all the banks he robbed, the one time he tried to hide from the law in a hippie commune, the other time he escaped from prison only to be run down by San Diego State track stars and various other peeks into the outlaw life.

Well, Bruce from Austin, Texas, a BeachGrit regular, decided to head into the studio and record an homage. It very well may be the second musical homage to literature in history, after Metallica’s For Whom the Bell Tolls, and certainly the greatest country rockabilly song inspired by the work of a surf journalist ever recorded.

You can listen above and then, if you so desire, to David Lee Scales and me discussing other finer points of the surfing life. SurfAds even calls in to discuss serious matters of the head.

Important.

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World’s greatest race car driver Lewis Hamilton, motocross superstar Dylan Ferrandis and big wave champion Makua Rothman share thoughts on life, death and the love of surfing in beautiful new short!

Three Kings.

A new, sublime short film dropped yesterday featuring a trio of top athletes sharing their thoughts on life, death, love and friendship all while surfing the famed Waco tank.

Lewis Hamilton, known by some to be the best race car driver in the world, and Dylan Ferrandis, a French motocross superstar, joined big wave champion and new favorite commentator Makua Rothman deep in the heart of Texas for a session and a chat.

Rothman opens up with the truth that a surf trip is as much about the people on it than anything and also noted that when he’s surfing the Waco tank it doesn’t feel “artificial” at all but rather like Uluwatu. Hamilton shares that watching the other two surf kept pushing him to try more, try better, even attempting to figure out how Rothman was throwing neat little spins.

Rothman turns it right around and says nothing he could have done would have made him as happy as seeing Hamilton and Ferrandis come out of the barrel and his coaching, throughout the piece, is truly a highlight.

At the end, Hamilton declares “Surfing is my favorite sport. It really is. I love the ocean and the water, the power the movement, and going out there feels like your disconnected from all the negative things that are going around in the world.”

Truly anti-depressive. Watch, and feel, here.

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Pacheco, missile, Slawson.

Three-time world surf champ publicly lambasts pro surfer nearly decapitated in contest by fellow competitor, “Quit crying like a wuss and pound him if you’ve got a problem”

Should a man stand his ground and fight for pride and honour or run to his telephone to battle over social media?

The world champion longboarder and black-belt grappler from San Diego, Joel Tudor, has continued his hot streak on Instagram by publicly lambasting the pro surfer who was nearly decapitated by a fellow competitor’s board during a crummy lil qualifying event. 

Two weeks, maybe you remember, maybe you don’t, the Californian Levi Slawson was in a round one heat against Brazilian Magno Pacheco at the Cabarete Pro in the Dominican Republic. 

Slawson was winning, had priority, used said priority at the end of the heat to shut down Pacheco’s chance to win whereupon Pacheco kicked his board at Levi, narrowly missing his head. 

After the event, Slawson posted the incident on IG. 

“I had first priority and I took this wave from him at the end of the heat, I guess this was his reaction… he said it was an “accident” @magnopachecoo to think what would have happened if ur fins actually hit me (mind blown emoji) so glad to be ok! Time to move onto the next event! Feel free to repost. Thank you to @wsl @wsl.qs for taking quick action on this!!”

Comments were almost entirely on the side of Slawson. 

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by LEVI SLAWSON (@levi.slawson)

Later, Pacheco posted a sorta apology, although he continued to maintain he wasn’t aiming at Slawson with the board. 

Around the same this was happening, the WSL was releasing a statement indefinitely suspending the three-time world long boarding champion Joel Tudor following “baseless accusations of corruption and instigating social media-based attacks on the WSL and tour leadership.”

The suspension followed a series of heated posts, interviews, with and from Tudor following a rumour, possibly started here, that the World Surf League was gonna slash cut the longboard world tour from three events to one.

Anyway, in a comment written by Tudor and subsequently deleted by Slawson, the ultra-purist Tudor expresses his dismay at Slawson’s handling of the event. 

“Quit crying like a wuss and pound him if you’ve got a problem,” Tudor wrote. 

Which ain’t the worst piece of advice if you can use your hands or you’ve been tutored in the art of strangulation and you’ve got a legal team to pull you out of jail and get you out of a  civil lawsuit, but a kid from Encinitas vs a snarling, heavily tattooed Brazilian? 

What’s your stance on the matter? 

Fight or humiliate on socials? 

A very good discussion of the event, including Scott Bass’ contention that Pacheco’s pro career is over, is on the Spit! podcast below.

One hour and ten minutes or so in.

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Surfline Man drifts off into happy daydreams about surfboards and how he’s totally going to get barrelled tomorrow. Which board should he ride? Maybe bringing boards he’s never ridden before now was not his best life choice. It’s going to be just fine, Surfline Man tells himself. Sometimes, you just gotta send it.

Surfline Man Goes to Surf Ranch part two, “He’s going to sleep in an Airstream and surf the world’s most perfect wave. He doesn’t know whether to laugh, cry, or throw-up!”

The countdown starts and Surfline Man struggles to clear his head. Surfline Man can hear the train coming. It’s so close now.

Surfline Man is in Surf Ranch! He can’t even believe it.

Surfline Man is going to eat a fabulous Surf Ranch dinner, sleep in an Airstream, and surf the world’s most perfect wave. He doesn’t know whether to laugh, cry, or throw-up.

Probably all three.

Surfline Man stashes his important stuff in the Airstream he’s been assigned. So delightfully retro!

He inspects the build-out carefully. It would be so cool to redo the Sprinter and style it out all hand-built and vintage. Surfline Man has to confess that his current look is so basic. He totally deserves better.

What to wear.

First impressions are so important and Surfline Man doesn’t want all the tech bros to think he’s a total kook. And there’s Trey who always made Surfline Man feel so inadequate. Surfline Man suddenly has second thoughts about this whole thing. Maybe he could just stay in the Airstream all night?

You gotta pay to play is what his dad always said and while Surfline Man doesn’t want to admit it like at all, his old man was probably right. Surfline Man has to go out there and meet the bros and pretend that it’s the best night ever.

Would the Hawaiian-print shirt give him courage or make him feel like an idiot? Fashion is exactly as confusing as surfboards and much less fun. His ex always hassled him for wearing the wrong thing. Surfline Man feels so totally damaged.

Pulling an organic cotton v-neck out of his bag, Surfline Man is pretty sure he can’t go wrong with white. Surfline Man slips on fresh pair of Billabong boardshorts. Recycled plastic bottles, baby! Then he shuffles into his well-worn Rainbow flip flops.

Surfline Man feels confident he has nailed the perfect look. He throws a double shaka at his reflection in the mirror. A hat, should he wear a hat? Totally. He grabs his Patagonia with the perfectly curved brim. That’s it! He totally looks like a surfer right now.

Feeling so core, Surfline Man saunters out of his Airstream to dinner. He puts on his best happy face and gets a drink at the bar. Everyone is already sitting down. Shit. Already behind the section.

Surfline Man reaches across the table to fist-bump Trey. Then he slides into the nearest empty seat. Next to him sits an Outerknown button-down shirt in slate. White twill shorts, definitely not organic. Allbirds, no socks. Venture Capital, for sure.

Surfline Man looks around the table. It’s good to check the conditions before paddling out. Surfing and life are so totally the same. Surfline Man is so grateful for all the important lessons surfing has taught him.

In addition to Trey, Surfline Man recognizes two other marketing bros from Elevate! Another guy looks familiar, too, but Surfline Man can’t even remember him. Surfline Man is pretty sure the rest are the money. Trey is working the VC thing so hard. He must really want that funding to bring them to Surf Ranch.

Surfline Man can’t be bothered with all that capitalism stuff. He’s so over capitalism. He totally learned his lesson. Surfline Man has important surfing to do. Surfing is way better than capitalism any day of the week.

Pulled out of his blissful haze by the sound of his name, Surfline Man realizes Trey is talking about him. Surfline Man assumes it’s an introduction or something, so he smiles around the table.

Oh. Of course. Of course Trey is telling the dumb story about that one time at the company dodgeball game.

“So there we all were,” Trey is saying. “Every month we’d get together at Elevate! for a field trip. It was so good for company morale to have some bonding time together. This one time, we went to the beach and played dodgeball. Beers, dodgeball, friends, the beach — it was such a good time.

“But Trent here, he’s not the most coordinated guy out there. We all loved him for his great attitude at Elevate! Nobody worked harder. But he is not what you call good at sports. He was running or something and totally tripped over his own feet. He had to go to the ER and everything! Six weeks on crutches.”

Trey laughs, and everyone around the table joins in.

This is so embarrassing. Surfline Man keeps his smile on his face, and thinks about waves. Perfect waves. Surfline Man is going to get so barreled tomorrow. He just has to get through tonight.

“I’m sure he’s all healed up now, though, right Trent?” Trey is still talking. Surfline Man resists the temptation to slip down in his seat, all the way down, under the table.

“I hear you’re really into surfing now,” Trey is saying.

“Oh yah, I live in Cardiff now. Great waves all the time. It’s so nice to get out in the ocean,” Surfline Man says.

Surfline Man resists the urge to brag about how he got a sweet wave at Malibu. He could talk all night about the rad boards he brought to Surf Ranch. Best to play it cool. Surfline Man is totally going to let his surfing do the talking. Fuck dodgeball anyway.

Talk around the table shifts. Tech stacks. VC rounds. The next big thing. Surfline Man pastes an interested look on his face and checks out. Tech stuff, so boring.

Surfline Man drifts off into happy daydreams about surfboards and how he’s totally going to get barrelled tomorrow. Which board should he ride? Maybe bringing boards he’s never ridden before now was not his best life choice. It’s going to be just fine, Surfline Man tells himself. Sometimes, you just gotta send it.

The next day, Surfline Man rises with the sun. He makes coffee in the Airstream. Organic Kona blend. It’s fine, but nothing special. Surfline Man reminds himself that he’s not here for the coffee. Waves. He’s going to surf perfect waves today. Surfline Man can hardly wait.

But first, stretching.

Surfline Man carefully unrolls his yoga mat outside the Airstream. He’s so serious about his fitness now. Surfline Man should have discovered yoga ages ago. He can totally touch his toes and everything. He’s pretty sure his surfing is improving so much now.

Back in the Airstream, Surfline Man surveys his boards. They’re so white! So clean! It’s almost painful to wax them up. Surfboards are for surfing! Surfline Man knows that, if nothing else.

Time to commit. He pulls the two CI’s out of the stack and begins the slow, meticulous process of applying the perfect wax job. Good thing he’s been training.

Leashes. Fins. Surfline Man wasn’t super sure what fins to ride on his new thrusters. The internet had so many suggestions. Drive and control, that’s what he needs. He slides two sets of Futures AM1’s out of their packages. Fortunately, there’s no one around to see him as he tries to slot them in backwards.

Surfline Man loves surfboards so much, but really, do they have to be quite so complicated?

Surfline Man looks longingly at his long john, but really, it’s not that warm at all. Instead, he stuffs his 3/2, a towel, and extra wax in his backpack. Surfline Man is not about to risk looking fat in a 4/3 in front of Trey and the bros.

Ready, Surfline Man tucks his two fresh surfboards under his arm and heads to the waves. He feels so pro right now. Two freshly waxed, beautiful surfboards! Surfline Man is going to get so barreled. It’s going to be the best day ever.

Trey and the bros are gathered at the edge of the basin, checking it out. Surfline Man joins them. Trey is talking about a boat trip he took with friends to Cloudbreak. Surfline Man refuses to be intimidated. He’s been to Malibu!

Talk turns to the lineup, who’s going to surf first and all of that. It’s like, super political, and Surfline Man is happy to stare out at the water and dream about surfing.

Oh. Trey is talking to him. Surfline Man figures he’d better pay attention. He’s having so many flashbacks to the start-up life.

“Trent, you can go last,” Trey says.

Surfline Man knows Trey is trying to put him in his place. But he’s actually super stoked to go last. He can watch everyone else and learn from their mistakes. And, maybe he’ll get lucky and poach a left-over.

The bros struggle into wetsuits. Got any wax, bro? Surfline Man keeps his wax to himself. He might need it later. Surreptitiously, he surveys the boards. Amateurs, for sure.

One of the bros forgot to bring a leash for his midlength. It looks so new. Straight out of Mollusk, Surfline Man thinks. Good thing he is super into thrusters now. So high performance! Surfline Man conveniently forgets all about the turquoise midlength at home in his garage.

Waiting his turn, Surfline Man watches the bros surf. There sure is a lot of falling. The Outerknown shirt from last night’s dinner misses the barrel and gets axed. Surfline Man tries not to picture himself meeting the same exact fate.

Then he’s in the water, sitting down the line. Surfline Man hopes he can score a scrap, just to get warmed up and stuff. And there it is. Trey falls on his right! Surfline Man paddles hard. He must make it into this wave. Surfline Man’s new thruster suddenly feels super tiny, but there’s no time for second thoughts now.

Surfline Man pops to his feet. It feels like an miracle. OMG he’s surfing! Surfline Man entirely forgets what to do and how surfing even works. He should turn, maybe. He tries a tentative little arc on the face. It works! Surfline Man is so excited he nearly falls.

Surfline Man hears someone yell, “barrel!” Shit, Surfline Man never saw it coming. He ducks, but not quickly enough, and down he goes. Surfline Man is so embarrassed right now, but at least it wasn’t like, his real wave. It was just a practice. Next time, he’s totally going to get right in that barrel.

The much-hated voice of Trey reaches his ears. “That barrel section is tricky, huh?”

Surfline Man forces a laugh, “It sure is! Just gotta get lower, I think! Maybe I can make it on my next wave.” Surfline Man really, really hopes he makes the barrel on his next wave. A real surfer like him should be able to make the barrel.

Then it’s his turn. Surfline Man sits by the fence. He is so nervous right now. Like, even more nervous than prom night. Ugh. Where did that memory come from? Brains are the worst.

The countdown starts, and Surfline Man struggles to clear his head. Surfing. Waves. Balance. Flow. You got this, man. Surfline Man can hear the train coming. It’s so close now.

Then just like that, Surfline Man is up and riding. He has no idea how it happened. Paddling into the wave, standing up, it all happened so fast. He tries a turn. Then another. Holy shit. Two whole turns.

“Barrel!” This time, Surfline Man is so ready. He crouches down as small as he can. Good thing about all that yoga. He feels his board start to slide and desperately fights for balance. Somehow, his rail holds.

Surfline Man is getting so barreled now! Surfline Man feels the beautiful, blue embrace of the water. He can see the wave out in front of him and the bright light of the sun. It ends so fast! Surfline Man wishes he could stay in the barrel forever.

The bros are hooting him! Surfline Man is so proud. But there’s no time to celebrate. The wave is still going and Surfline Man has surfing to do. Buoyed by his successful barrel, Surfline Man pushes his next turn harder. Spray! He actually made spray!

When the next barrel section comes, Surfline Man is so tired. He smashes down as tiny as he can and holds on. The final barrel! Surfline Man has to make it! He wobbles on rubber legs, but miraculously stays on his board.

He made it! Surfline Man made his whole wave without falling. He got so barreled at Surf Ranch. And he even made spray!

Surfline Man just wants this feeling to last forever.

In a happy haze, Surfline Man joins the bros poolside. Someone passes him a beer. He even gets a few high-fives.

Surfline Man is pretty sure this is the best day ever.

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1988 World Champion and fan-favorite commenter Barton Lynch releases eponymous pro surfing video game to rave reviews: “Tell me it doesn’t get your hype meter moving!”

"Eye-popping!"

Australia’s Barton Lynch truly is a national treasure. The 1988 world champion almost single handedly saved professional surf announcing when he came into the box, a few years ago, eventually supplanting the 1989 world champion Martin Potter in hearts, minds and air time.

The Manly born, Sydney raised Lynch, described my surfing’s historian Matt Warshaw as “bright, expansive, rubber-faced” in his seminal Encyclopedia of Surfing (subscribe here) can do it all and, amazingly, “all” includes releasing a pro surfing video game.

Video game reviewer David Smith wrote:

The game, created by eight developers from Fremantle over a period of two-and-a-half years, aims to capture the spirit of high-stakes competitive surfing.

Surfing titles are an extremely niche genre in video games. Though the cover art of Kelly Slater’s Pro Surfer is seared into my retinas from years working at Gold Coast EB Games stores in the late 2000s, I have a hard time thinking of other dedicated surfing games I’ve encountered. It usually pops up as a mini-game in a larger sports compilation. Here, Bungarra wants to return the sport to the fore.

To prove their bona fides, the studio is working with world champion surfer and Sport Australia Hall-of-Famer Barton Lynch. The team themselves are also die-hard surfers, dedicated to replicating the experience of hitting the waves as accurately as possible.

“We are surfers who are passionate about the core sport of surfing, along with the culture and the freedom of our lifestyle,” says Bungarra Software CEO Andrew West. “We’ve been building surfing games for years and our very first demo was a simulation. Circumstance had sidetracked us away from our desire to make a truly sport-focused surfing game, but now we’ve come full circle.

“We’ve built BL Pro Surfing primarily for surfing gamers, along with anyone interested in our sport and lifestyle. It’s also a game that is accessible for (non-gaming) surfers and we hope that they can see the love and passion we’ve put into this project for them. So while this sports game is pickup and play, it is difficult to master”

And included the “eye-popping” trailer that “get’s your hype meter moving.”

As Derek Rielly would say, “essential.”

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