Anti-depressive!
There are not so many surf stories left that bring a tear to the eye of this crusty old surf journalist. Kelly Slater being chaired up the beach after becoming Pro Pipeline at 49-years-old? Seen better. Zeke Lau hoisting ABC’s The Ultimate Surfer trophy above his head after vanquishing foes in a swimming pool? Lightly choked up. World Surf League shuttering its WSL Studios overnight, firing tens of employees? Blinking rapidly.
But the story of big wave surfer Bianca Valenti teaching an ultra-VAL to surf Mavericks in mere months thereby fulfilling his dream?
I cannot even pretend to hide the flood gushing down my cheeks, splashing onto trusty keyboard. You feel unmoved? Oh, I am a calloused storyteller and rude. You must read her account though I would encourage tissues close at hand.
Beyond proud of this guy / my student / dear friend Nellie aka @lionelconacher who basically chased me down the beach about a year ago to introduce himself and tell me he had a crazy idea: that he wanted to surf Mavericks before he turned 60. He asked, Was it possible? Could I help him? He was 59, and started surfing at 53. Without hesitation, my confident optimistic self said: YES, anything’s possible, AND there’s a ton of work that goes into it. He assured me that when he commits to a goal he commits fully and I wouldn’t have to worry about him not doing the work.
From the first time we went surfing together I saw the absolute stoke and mental fortitude he exudes (in all aspects of life) and I agreed to help him achieve his goal. This past month, after 11 months of training, he caught and successfully rode his first Mavericks wave! And two days ago, he caught a couple more, with many more to come. Safe to say he’s hooked!
Surfing with Nellie is so fun — he’s got the best attitude and just so happens to catch the best wave of his life every time we surf. Coaching him is so fun, and even more special becoming BFFs! Easily one of the highlights of my year! Congratulations, Nellie!!! You are amazing and an inspiration to everyone! And you are living proof that it’s never too late to start surfing, it’s never too late to commit to and accomplish a major goal, and it’s possible to ride a better wave every day. Thank you for being you!!!
Beautiful. Not even the grumpiest of locals can besmirch.
They look like brother and sister.
Ethan Ewing surfed good tho…
the best surfer in the water is the one most likely to drown at 2 ft Mavs whilst happiest
they were too busy picking the eyes out of the metaverse foil scene
Or story reads , aging pro surfer reinvents as personal trainer
So feelgood I just threw up in my mouth a little bit
Chas will get this, the rest of you will too, but it might take a minute
https://www.youtube.com/wat…
How dare you say I can’t besmirch this carry-on.
I shall besmirch, and besmirch LOUDLY sir…
Yeah, likely story. He’s obviously an undercover FBI agent and has befriended her to infiltrate the gang of surfing bank robbers (buy here) that she’s loosely associated with.
Oldest trick in the book.
Next up, Nazare!
So he’s been surfing for 6 years and he still struggles to get to his feet and go straight?
A bit like surfing Pinballs and claiming Waimea.
This bucket list BS is too much. People claiming just to claim.
Mavs has been really quiet this year. There may still be time for him to regret this foray.
One can only hope
Stop shitting on my 2001 I’ve surfed Waimea bay alone story.
I surfed Mavericks completely alone in the early 90’s. Which consisted of paddling through the north shore break and shoulder hopping the end section of the left. It was proper 25ft lurching where most other people mistakenly believe one ought to drop in, but we can’t all bask in the warm legitimacy of soft leftover roll ins.
All of the coaching in non-competitive surfing is fucking annoying. Chasing a pro up the beach begging to to be taught with your wallet wide open and then pretending to be friends? Are we fucking skiing?