Help: Middle-aged surf journalist attempts
to understand modern, mostly male and cryptic, hand gestures a
decade after they should have crested!
By Chas Smith
But what does the OK and devil horn admixture
mean?
Legitimately, I have been struggling with folk,
especially male folk, holding their handsies up and doing fingering
things for the camera for years and years and years. Maybe even a
decade. The ironic shaka I understand (see here) but pointers, peace
signs, love fingers, sideways peace signs, kinked out OKs feat.
devil horns?
Why do the youth do when a cellular phone camera is brought out?
What in the world is being thought when doing?
Let us examine the above photograph, maybe not from cellular
phone, featuring surfing champion-adjacent Kanoa Igarashi and
Formula One star Yuki Tsunoda doing the stuff.
Igarashi is throwing some OK and devil horn admixture. Does it
mean anything? Tsunoda is going more standard two fingers pointing
at Igarashi but a little weird and crooked. What does that
mean?
Why do the youth do?
Legitimately.
I feel we help each other understand the wild times in which we
live.
Help me help you.
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Dirty Water: Breakthrough big-wave surfer
Mason Barnes on riding a 126.5-foot wave, “When it came in it
looked terrifying. I almost didn’t go!”
By Derek Rielly
How to wrangle and kill rhinos!
Today on Dirty Water we introduce a new interviewer, the
wildly Australian ex-pat Ben Mondy who lives,
paradoxically, amid the bucolic loveliness of England.
Despite the naked skull, piggish eyes and sanctimonious voice
Mondy has an every-man appears that electrifies the interior of any
room.
And, as a journalist, he towers over me and Chas.
His guest is the North Carolina surfer Mason Barnes who
shattered the mythical 100-foot wave barrier at Portugal’s Nazaré
one month ago.
In his crouch on this wave he is 5’ 5” inches tall.
From crest to trough the face of this wave measures 23 units of
Mason’s crouching height of 5’5” inches.
23 X 5’5” = 126.5 feet.
Wild etc.
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Stephanie Gilmore and tennis gun Ash Barty.
WSL
Comment live, day three, Rip Curl Pro Bells
Beach, “An unforgiving lineup that tests the endurance, power, and
fundamental rail-to-rail surfing of today’s progressive
athletes!”
By Derek Rielly
World's best pitted against dirty mother nature.
Leave your comments below the line.
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Perth man suffers critical freak accident
as surfboard rounds on him, fin slicing underarm and shoulder
thereby severing artery and causing severe blood loss.
By Chas Smith
Terrifying that a board can turn on its master with
such ferocity.
More often than not the surfing experience is relatively
sublime. A wave at a friendly face in the car park,
invigorating paddle to the peak, a few fun waves wiggled and
jiggled upon, a belly ride on whitewash, an amble back to vehicle
et voilà. But there are, truly, many variables that can,
each, go horribly askew. Being dropped in on by an unwieldy kook
and speared, lost log rolling into head, shark nibbling toes,
rattlesnake planning a land assault.
Surfboard fin performing seppuku.
This final horror occurred hours ago to a middle-aged Perth
surfer out enjoying autumnal Yallingup, home to Taj Burrow and many
fine waves.
Australia’s 9 News is
reporting that sunbathers who witnessed the freak
accident rushed into action, dragging the man from the water and
forming some sort of tourniquet to stop severe blood loss from a
severed artery under the arm or in the shoulder. He was rushed to a
local intensive care unit where he was stabilized then airlifted to
Perth for emergency surgery where he remains in critical but stable
condition.
Very best wishes for a speedy recovery but also terrifying that
a board can turn on its master with such ferocity. I’ve had my nose
broken by surfboard rail before and been speared in the guts
causing a light bruise and knocking the wind out but that’s it.
Easy stuff. Though what is the hardest knock you’ve received from
your usually trusty steed?
Nasty business.
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World Surf League CEO Erik Logan steals
spotlight from banished Conner Coffin, Seth Moniz on day two of Rip
Curl Pro Bells Beach with “pimp-like” panache!
By JP Currie
"Such is the unpredictability of professional
surfing."
Four surfers eliminated after two days of
competition. Meat and potatoes time.
Tell me the mid-season cut isn’t a great idea?
They ran at Winki today, and what started off as marginal,
unappealing and windy junk actually provided some solid
entertainment thanks to buzzer beaters and tight scoring.
I’m probably committing some sort of sacrilege in suggesting
this, but is Winkipop not a…better wave?
We were also treated to some primetime ELo, some showbusiness
ELo.
But more on him in a minute.
Spare a thought for Conner Coffin. Last year’s top five surfer
has gone 17th, 17th, 5th and now 33rd. Good result in Portugal
aside, he looks deflated and will likely be below the cut line at
the conclusion of this comp.
He was cursed by Turpel early on today, who said Coffin “felt
confident just staying in rhythm from the cliff.”
Apparently the rhythm of the cliff isn’t as good as the rhythm
of the water in preparation for surfing competitions.
Conner must have sleepless nights about days like this. All
those years spent honing his style and refining his rail-work, only
to be eliminated in wonky 3ft surf not conducive to the longer
lines he likes to hold. There seems little adaptation in his
surfing.
Do you have sympathy for a man who values aesthetics and stays
true to his style?
At this rate he won’t be around for J-Bay, and that would be a
crying shame.
(And btw, if you’re listening, GERRRRRR!, I want you to know
that I’ve thought about Conner’s Secret Turn at least once every
day for five years or more. Now I might never see it, and that’s on
you.)
Such is the unpredictability of professional surfing that it
would have been an impossible punt to pick Heat 11, with Jake
Marshall, Deivid Silva and Miguel Pupo, as the most entertaining of
the Opening Round, but that was to be the case.
At the final hooter three men were separated by just 0.43 of a
point.
With 30 seconds remaining, Jake Marshall held a commanding lead.
Pupo was in second and Silva was heading to the elimination
round.
Ten seconds later Silva dropped a 7.0 for three solid backhand
turns with no hitches on a prior set wave, moving him into
first.
Marshall, now in second, caught a wave with less than 10 seconds
left and was riding when the buzzer sounded, presumably thinking he
was home and dry. But scores were still to come in for Pupo.
Miguel got a 5.90, meaning Marshall had gone from first to
second to last in the final 20 seconds.
All of a sudden he needed a 5.24 on the wave he’d caught at the
buzzer. He was given a 4.70.
Pupo had squeaked through ahead of him by 0.06 of a point.
It was a breathless final exchange of waves.
In the context of surf scoring Marshall would be within his
rights to feel sore about heading to the losers round, but any man
might have ended up first or last and it would’ve been tough to
argue their case either way. In the end, Deivid Silva was a fine
enough winner.
A favourite sub-genre of mine is the obscure sponsorships of
Brazilian pro surfers. They’re not too proud to rep anyone if it
means a few shekels towards a plane ticket and a new G-banger.
Silvana Lima was sponsored by an altcoin seven years ago, long
before your granny was buying her groceries with Satoshis.
Deivid Silva had stickers for a pizza restaurant on his board
yesterday in a quite lovely nod to the archetype.
Elimination heats were completed. Coffin, Matthew McGillivray
and Seth Moniz are left to mope and ponder Margaret River with a
miserable 265 points for finishing 33rd. So too wildcard Tully
Wylie who made scant impression this time.
So that was the surfing, but onto the real show, the one we
really tune in for: the pantomime of the World Surf League!
Correct me if I’m wrong, but I’m sure Erik Logan referred to
what he does as “showbusiness” today?
It was probably loosely in reference to the forthcoming “Make or
Break” series on Apple TV, which Logan was there to pimp, and you
can be damn sure he’s a showman.
Pimp it he did.
I mean, I’m excited about it. I genuinely think it’ll be good,
but Erik Logan thinks it’ll be GREAT! This is his arena, his
velodrome of seedy schmoozing and media fludge.*
He stopped just short of anointing himself as the saviour of pro
surfing on the spot, but the subtext was clear.
Clearly still smarting from the Clean Vans backlash and in a
tizzy about what sort of footwear a man in his position should
wear, he opted to go functional with spick and span Salomons to
pair with his blue jeans and WSL logoed shirt, top button
loosed.
A Salomon Cross Hike Gore-Tex, if I’m not mistaken. Perhaps even
a mid?
Serious footwear, at any rate.
For those not familiar with the French brand who cut their teeth
in the ski industry, think day-hikers, remote workers, stay at home
dads, and old, weathered European men in luminous Nevica ski
jackets.
Salomon shoes are what men put on when their partners tell them
that socks with sandals is “not smart-casual”.
I’m not sure about you, but all I could hear when ELo was
talking about “Make or Break” was the Diana Ross song “One Shining
Moment”.
That’s clearly his theme tune.
Slightly unnerving were his interactions with Rabbit
Bartholomew, who, bless his heart, had put in a good shift but was
clearly flagging by the time ELo came in.
His face a shade best described as “perplexing red” (and I do
mean that in the synecdochical sense) he slunk lower and lower in
his chair as the day went on.
If things had gone on much longer Rabbit might have been reduced
to a pile of laundry on the chair between Logan and Turpel, topped
with a chequered shirt.
ELo employed some of what he remembered from his management
workshops by reaching over to touch Rabbit’s hand every so often.
It was a tactile trust play reminiscent of a pick-up artist, or the
way you might lay a hand on the arm of an elderly relative in a
care home, just to check it’s still warm.
If you listened very carefully I’m sure you could hear Rabbit
emit a low growling noise, much like an aging Cocker Spaniel.
But ELo’s fludge was at least mildly preferable to Shannon,
clearly on the same dollar per word rate as Turpel, but with a
pitch that would make dogs whine.
Listen to her and tell me it’s not like when you accidentally
hit the double speed button on a podcast app?
It was exhausting. Thank christ for Richie Lovett slowing things
down and giving our ears a break every so often. And he’s ok,
right? No major note of improvement from me so far anyway. A solid
mid-range score with the potential to creep into the excellent
range. The commentary equivalent of Nat Young.
Anyway, on we go, as we must.
Much more to look forward to I’m sure.
*fludge in my own neologism for the purpose of describing ELo’s
verbiage. Think of it as oral frogspawn.