Spilled ink.
There have been, throughout our time, a very few proper surf heroes in movies. One handful. Vince, from North Shore, might be considered. Jan-Michael Vincent, from Big Wednesday, too. In God’s Hands’ Shane Dorian for those smoldering good looks and possibly Kate Bosworth from Blue Crush but that is it, that is all, save the best of all.
Keanu Reeves in Point Break.
Johnny Utah, as he was then called, was perfect inspiration. A football gunslinger turned FBI hotshot turned surfer who discovered the true meaning of stoke etc. learning at the feet of Patrick Swayze’s Bodhi.
Reeves’ laconic drawl, his slow eyes and languid movement were perfection and have aged like fine meatball sandwiches though, apparently, our champion is not appreciated by all.
Friends’ star Matthew Perry, for instance, was not and is not impressed. In a forthcoming memoir, Perry, without prompting, wondered, “Why is it that the original thinkers like River Phoenix and Heath Ledger die, but Keanu Reeves still walks among us?”
Ouch.
Though the actor who played Chandler Bing later apologized, declaring, “I’m actually a big fan of Keanu. I just chose a random name, my mistake. I apologize. I should have used my own name instead,” the ink has already been spilled, printed, published, out soon.
Who among us has not written things in hardback that were later regretted though?
Certainly not me.
Commented on Disqus? Log out, tap the Disqus button, and your old name and comments come back. The box is ours.
Your comments are still here. Every one of them.
Twelve years of BeachGrit comments came across from Disqus. Connect and we will show you how many are yours. We get your username, nothing else.
Connect Disqus to reveal.
“Surf journalism is going to save the world…” Chas, on the last page of Cocaine & Surfing…
I, for one, am a true detective/believer…also like surf movies…all surf movies, ‘cept point break 2…
1st Eddie Van Halen and now Keanu Reeves someone needs to see if Chandler Bing is back on the NoCal party favors
Reading between the lines (aka completely making shit up) it looks like he’s saying Keanu introduced those guys to heroin.
Chose a random name indeed. I suspect Perry was on the sherry. In vino veritas. Then thought different in the cold light of dawn. Panic ensued and the fib emerged.
Corinthians 30 or THE BYRDS…
turn with the seasons.
1st up: L. Ron Hubbard vs Elmore Leonard
later: Carmen Electra w/ D. Rodman
Fuck me after my recent trip to NZ , there are people there and back here, I wish were possibly not walking among us!!!
There are remedies. Don’t bottle it up….
bottle it down?
If i was living in the US – may be in jail by now – still may be!!!
One time in Ventura county jail I wrote in hardback on the bathroom stall’s flimsy dividers
When can we order your autobiography?
I’d feel too much a wanker for ever doing such a thing but I appreciate your desire, Jimmy the Saint! You know, please tell me that I’ve told you already, my Mama was born in Cork
https://scontent-sjc3-1.xx….
You never said that! I lived there for a while, great city!
Was there in summer of 2021 on the emerald isle. Got Bundoran FIRING, then went up Donegal way and got Strandhill out there. The water was warmer that day at Strandhill than it ever gets out front in my corner of Southern California! I was tripping. In Fs it had to be like 75 or so. Went to the Strandhill surf shop there to rap with the dudes and see what was up, and they said, “jet stream.” They said it was that warm every summer. Is this true?????
The hottest the water usually gets in summer is 15c or 59 Fahrenheit, and usually that is if it’s been quite small, as soon as you get some upwelling from a big swell it’s back down around 12c, which isn’t bad at all, but usually you’ll want a 4mm suit to surf throughout summer. This past summer I got away with a 3m but the suit is exceptional!
https://scontent-sjc3-1.xx….
I’ve spent a few nights in there!
State St. before the Steely concert at the Bowl…it was a dry night unfortunately, copped a couple of brewski’s but punked out on lightin’ the pre-rolled dubee…2010…it still wasn’t hip with security! fuck/
88 after K/ Gibson’s game 1 home-run/
You got clinked up after that? I’m sorry to hear. Real talk: at school in 86 they had an assembly to watch the space ship launch. It blew up. In 88 I was laying on my parents’ bedroom carpet with my brothers and watched Kirk Gibson hit that homer. I was ecstatic. And then on 9\11 I woke up super early cuz a buddy and I were taking his little uni boat out to harvest some, and so I went to his place and he had a little kitchen TV playing repeats over and over of the first plane hitting the building. And while we sat there and packed our shit up and he drank his coffee, the next plane came in on live TV at about 530 or 6am on this Pacific coast and we said, “fuuuuuuck.” then went to the islands for 3 days Came back to a changed world
the uni war on kelp…more as that develops…lobster trapped during the ’89 season…had a close proximity shotgun stare down on frontside Anacapa with “The Indian” from Oxnard. The borders were set: west end of ‘Capa, to the coast from fairgrounds to rock island…that was Yater territory. ex-wife called that year The Dark Ages. In 97, ran my lil pick-up truck into a lightpost leaving VTA Harbor…Like Gisele: That was the straw that broke. World Changing…2023 is just around the corner and my question to ya’ all is: proceed forward as The Flinstones? Or leap into the modern technology era as…The Jetsons?