“Bomb” swell arrives in Southern California spiking wave heights and drawing severe warnings from Surfline: “Bottom line is that it’s Very Dangerous at all areas so really think hard before you attempt a paddle out!”

Get It!

The “bomb” swell has arrived. Southern California surfers who, days ago, were in literal disbelief after World Surf League forecasting partner Surfline had predicted waves reaching never-before-seen heights across region are, right now, eating crow and/or drinking salt water.

Blacks: 15 – 18 ft.

Swamis: 8 – 12 ft.

Huntington Beach Pier: 8 – 12 ft.

World Surf League CEO Erik Logan’s El Porto: 10 – 15 ft.

First Point Malibu: A celebrity comfortable 4 – 6 ft.

Sunny skies, light winds and it might be thought that Surfline staffers would be relishing a rare victory. Parading around various cities and towns pounding chests, insisting that Nostradamus ain’t shit compared to Kevin Wallis. But those thinking such things would be wrong.

Ever erring on the side of abundant caution, those who might want to test their mettle against nature’s finest were met with stern warnings.

“Massive surf is hitting all areas this morning with Over Head to Double Over Head waves rolling thru many areas,” penned North County Surfline advisor Bird. “Winter focal spots can see waves even larger than that. A 6’+ high tide is further adding to deep ocean surges that are spilling in to the lower lying car parks and breaking over some of the structured areas and piers. Winds are light offshore. Bottom line is that it’s Very Dangerous at all areas so really think hard before you attempt a paddle out. If you want to go watch the action stay extremely clear of those areas that can get flushed out by the rogue Super Sets.”

Will vulnerable adult learners heed the warning?

Will the Donald Trump-esque random capitalizations of Over Head, Double Over Head, Very Dangerous and Super Sets add the proper gravitas to keep them away?

David Lee Scales and I discussed confidence and entitlement outweighing reality in these the post-Covid surfing days of our lives. We also spent time wondering if vision boards are an important tool for personal success. I think you will enjoy the episode much and should listen whilst preparing to Charge The Bomb.


After the arrest of Guzmán, who, authorities claim, was moving up to five tons of fentanyl a month into the US and who also allegedly ordered informers killed, as well as a popular Mexican singer who refused to sing at his wedding, the Sinaloa capital, Culiacán, has gone up in flames, literally. 

Surfers trapped in Mexico as civil war erupts in Sinaloa over arrest of alleged fentanyl trafficker and kid of drug lord El Chapo, “We’re hiding out in our apartment with no water or food wondering what the night will bring down!”

"I’m surfing like Apocalypse Now come (too close) to life."

There’s considerable heat on the streets of the Mexican state of Sinaloa tonight following the arrest of Ovidio Guzmán, alleged major mover of Fentanyl into the US and son of the wonderfully cinematic drug lord Joaquin “El Chapo” Guzmán.

The Americanos have been trying like hell to get El Chapo’s kid extradited back to the US since 2017 when the old boy got life in a Florida pen for “drug trafficking with intent to distribute, conspiracy association, organized crime against health, money laundering, homicide, illegal possession of firearms, kidnapping, and murder in Chicago, Miami, New York, and other cities.”

“It’s a reality that drugs destroy,” said El Chapo. “Unfortunately where I grew up, there’s no other way to survive.”

And, now, a five-mill reward offered by the US government has seemingly persuaded one brave soul to snitch on the kid. 

After the arrest of Guzmán, who, authorities claim, was moving up to five tons of fentanyl a month into the US and who also allegedly ordered informers killed, as well as a popular Mexican singer who refused to sing at his wedding, the Sinaloa capital, Culiacán, has gone up in flames, literally. 

The Sinaloa cartel have set up road blocks all over the joint, they’re firing at Mex air force planes with 50-caliber machine guns, cars and trucks are on fire and new arrivals at the airport are huddling under their seats.

And, just a couple of hours south, in surf-soaked Mazatlan, surfers have been told not to move from wherever they’re staying.

In a missive sent to the noted surf journalist Ben Marcus one wrote:

“I’m down in Mazatlan surfing at Olas Altas beach when the Mexican federales captured cartel boss Ovidio Guzman this morning and the cartel goes into reprisal mode and Culiacan and Mazatlan are locked down; the city here is absolutely silent and deserted with choppers flying overhead—and I’m surfing like Apocalypse Now come (too close) to life.

“And now we’re hiding out in our apartment with no water or food wondering what the night will bring down. All a bit too weird. Hope you’re well!?”


“The city council in their reasoning referenced BeachGrit articles three times, articles that you had written talking crap about the wavepool and the Slater technology. The city council is referencing your work and that’s part of the reason we got shut down!”

Bombshell text message reveals “outrageous and contagious” journalist responsible for Kelly Slater’s failed $250 million bid to build a wavepool and hundreds of houses in Palm Springs!

“The city council in their reasoning referenced BeachGrit articles three times!"

Three months ago, a bold plan to build a Kelly Slater wavepool surrounded by “hundreds of houses” in Palm Springs was unanimously shut down by La Quinta’s city council, “citing community concerns that the surf club would bring ‘the wrong element’ i.e. people still alive.”

“Concerns about building a wave tank during a historic drought were raised, though the developers promised it would take less water than neighboring golf courses,” reported BeachGrit. “The footprint was shrunk to alleviate stress but there was no alleviating the stress of ‘surfers’ coming to town.”

Now, it can be revealed that it was a raft of stories from shock jock Chas Smith that caused the project to be shelved.

In a podcast broadcast three days ago, the show’s host David Scales tells the story of one of the principal architects of the scheme texting Smith and writing,

“The city council in their reasoning referenced BeachGrit articles three times, articles that you had written talking crap about the wavepool and the Slater technology. The city council is referencing your work and that’s part of the reason we got shut down!”

Another anecdote from Scales, however, suggests the BeachGrit excuse is a red herring to cover for a plan that was unlikely to succeed in the first place.

 “A friend of mine, a potential investor,” says Scales, “sat through meetings, saw pitches, saw the financials, all the plans, said this thing is a pipe dream. The numbers are ridiculous. There’s no way they’re getting this funded. And, even if they do, no one sees a return. What they’re asking, the prices the homes need to sell for, and the fee people need to pay, are insane.” 

Chas Smith, who has fled to Park City, Utah, following the revelation, has been approached for comment.

My fav story from the series is BeachGrit commenter Hippy’s take on the project, “Palm Springs wedding planner reveals tragic flaw in Kelly Slater’s $250 million La Quinta wavepool and real estate gamble.” 

 


Photo: @Marco Freire
Photo: @Marco Freire

47-year-old Brazilian “ride of the year” nominated surfer and Lucas Chumbo tow partner Marcio Freire dies at Nazaré after being towed to beach in cardiac arrest.

Tragedy.

Tragedy has struck the Portuguese big wave Nazaré hours ago as local media is reporting that the Brazilian surfer Marcio Freire has died after a heavy wipeout.

According to the captain of the Port of Nazaré Mário Lopes Figueiredo, Freire was immediately fetched from the water and “towed to the beach by a colleague on a jet ski, already in cardio-respiratory arrest.”

The rescue crew immediately raced Freire to the beach where he was met by an ambulance and medics. The captain continued, “Unfortunately, none of the life support maneuvers were successful, and death was eventually declared on the spot.”

Freire becomes the first, registered, fatality at Nazaré.

The picturesque giant, which exploded onto the scene after Garrett McNamara first surfed it in 2011, has been flooded with those seeking fame and glory since. Multiple records have been recorded including the Guinness World Record for “highest wave ever surfed” by Sebastian Steudtner.

Freire was no thrill-seeking novice, having been in the running for a Ride of the Year award out at Jaws, where he frequently surfed.


Laird Hamilton shoots Malibu Pier during last monster swell as Ellen Pompeo (left) and Jeff Bezos attempt to steel spines.

Malibu’s celebrity surfers glance around Soho House patio, wonder which amongst them will have the guts to paddle as historic “bomb” swell hits shore!

It's glory time.

Surfline’s predicted “bomb” swell has either arrived or is about to arrive to Southern California’s fatal shore leaving the region’s surfers hovering betwixt panic and glee, depending, that is, on the mettle. But do you live in the southland? Is your big wave strike already planned?

El Porto, maybe?

A secret spot in Ventura called “Silver Strand?”

Malibu?

Oh the tony enclave’s celebrity surfers must be caught betwixt terror and… potential as the horizon darkens beyond First Point. Sitting, there, on Soho’s Little Beach House patio and glancing around, wondering which amongst them will have the guts to paddle, the will to catapult from hobbyist to hellperson.

Jeff Bezos, perched on his fine wooden chair, sweat bubbling on nude scalp, hoping beyond hope that Ellen Pompeo will not one-up him in front of Lauren Sanchez by waxing her step-up boogie and sending it?

Reese Witherspoon pushing her butter lettuce, avocado, sherry vinaigrette (plant based) around the plate, trying to keep the bile from rising up and out?

Sal Masekela looking across the table at his beautiful girlfriend Lupita Nyong’o who is looking back at him with a quizzical expression which might read, “You told me you were a really good surfer?”

Laird Hamilton standing in the doorway, arms folded, tapping one flip flop on the wooden floor whistling the tune to Hogan’s Heroes?

It’s glory time.