"If we ignore Trestles, of course. And I plan to,
for as long as possible."
That’s the difference, isn’t it? Between men
like us and men like Jack Robinson, I mean.
And I don’t mean the Brazilian model wife. Or the lucrative
sponsorships. Or even the ability to hurl himself over the ledge at
waves that would shatter mortal men.
I mean the ability to keep going, to endure, to battle through
objectively terrible conditions when the will of others is
crumbling around you.
The quality of being “grindy”, in WSL-speak.
Liam O’Brien is a grinder, so said Kaipo. He was absolutely sure
of it, too. It was a strangely certain assertion just three heats
into O’Brien’s career at this level.
I’m not sure I’d like to be known as a grinder, or being grindy.
It sounds a bit like a sexual threat.
But endurance and doggedness are the qualities I do admire, and
those I like to explore in myself.
I’ve done my time with discomfort and pain. It’s mostly why I
run, I think. I like to suffer the vagaries of weather and explore
the limits of physical resilience. It’s all preparation for any
given doomsday scenario, apart from anything else.
I can be dogged with other things, too. If there’s a problem
needing fixing I’ll be terrier-like until it’s sorted. Chainsaw not
running, van broken down, spreadsheet formulae not functioning,
axle broken off monster truck that’s been thrown down the
stairs…
But what I can’t endure, what I alluded to yesterday, is
dullness.
Jack Robinson surely can. Despite, as we all know, his happy
place being the kind of waves we all want to see at Pipeline, he
can summon the fortitude to win in those that no-one wants to
watch.
Is that not three victories where Finals Day has taken place in
terrible conditions? Margaret River and G-Land last year, and Pipe
today?
That’s World Champion material.
(If we ignore Trestles, of course. And I plan to, for as long as
possible.)
You’ll forgive me if I spare you the Xs and Os today. Heat
totals speak for themselves, including the final itself where
neither Fioravanti nor Robinson could break ten points.
Not even John Florence could make a silk purse out of what was
on offer. His 19.33 heat total from yesterday remains a masterful
blip. The WSL should thank him for glossing over so much
mediocrity.
The frustrating thing for me is that we can’t even blame the WSL
for this one. The event window just didn’t deliver, and this was
all the more painful in context of last year.
Ross Williams did mention something early on about “taking
advantage of these conditions.” An odd statement, I thought, but no
more than we’re used to.
It was somewhere around the appearance of Richie Porta’s head,
an event I’ve grown to love. What is his actual role these days? Is
he employed by the WSL?
I hope he is. I hope he has a fancy WSL title.
The Judge Of Christmas Past.
Chief Of Judge’s Humanity.
Richie told us they were still looking for barrels today. There
was only one of note.
To the surprise of no-one, the best wave of the day was
bequeathed on Caio. The 9.00 awarded was by far the best score and
highlight of the day.
I was sure I heard a voice.
“That’s your lot, son,” it whispered in the ether.
I wasn’t sure if it was meant for Caio or me.
Ibelli would go on to lose his semi against Leo, but in the very
next heat my world came tumbling down.
I’d bet heavily on Toledo in this event. Something I never
normally do, but his odds were just irresistible. All I needed was
for him to win that semi against Chianca. After that it would’ve
been gravy.
For my money, he was the better surfer. Chianca had a couple of
nice turns (literally two) but Filipe was more dynamic, yet
unrewarded.
Such is life.
On the beach, when asked who he’d prefer to surf against next,
Chianca said he thought he might have a rivalry with John, and that
he had “a really competitive atmosphere with Jack inside the Volcom
house.”
It was a welcome departure from the typical vanilla response to
this question, normally something along the lines of “Oh, I don’t
really mind, everyone’s a really great surfer, I’m just out here
having fun etc etc…”
We see you, Joao.
Somewhere around this time I started to question my life
choices.
Is this not self-flagellation of the highest order? I stay up
all night watching pro surfing in objectively poor conditions. Lack
of sleep and time impairs my family life and my job. (I’ve got
sixty school reports incomplete with a deadline of yesterday, you
know.) I enjoy the writing, obviously, and there’s financial
recompense. But I’ve burned all that and much more in pursuit
of…what?
“That’s your lot, son,” the discombobulated voice breathed
again.
I stood up, wobbled a little, then sat down again.
The waves on screen blurred.
Someone in the peripheries of this confusing soundscape said
“spicy”. But it might have been sendy or grindy.
The voice spoke again.
I chose to ignore it and continued my descent into the
abyss.
I’ll be back in time for Sunset.
Luck always turns, right?