Big talk from a legend.
Now, I have never met the Maverick’s pioneer Jeff Clark, personally, though I have heard things. Namely, that is grouchy. And grumpy. Grousy. Cantankerous. Crotchety. Querulous. Etc. Certainly not the sort to make superlative World Surf League-esque claims about “biggest” or “best” or “the momentum of professional surfing being real.”
And so, when the 67-year-old curmudgeon told the San Francisco Chronicle that the recent super swell event that blessed the entirety of California was the “best Maverick’s footage of all-time” it is worth consideration.
Clark, famously, paddled Maverick’s alone at the age of seventeen, friends refusing to join him, and proceeded to surf the beast alone for the next fifteen years.
Then, one morning, a teenager snuck into Clark’s van and secretly came with him to Maverick’s. After discovering him, and being cantankerous, Clark agreed to teach the young man the “foundation pillars of surfing.” These involved treading water for 40-minutes and being able to hold breath for 4-minutes underwater.
Though not thinking his charge ready, Clark was proved wrong after the kid followed him into the lineup and impressed with both fearlessness and rail control. Clark told him to keep the break secret, but his notebook accidentally fell into the wrong hands and the next time the two went for a surf it was crowded with many boats etc. While Clark was frustrated, none of the surfers could ride successfully until the kid paddled. At first he wiped out too but gave it another go, airdropped to sick bottom turn and everyone got super stoked.
In any case, here is the footage. Not that your opinion matters, since Clark already claimed it was the best of all-time, but what is it?
Also, why don’t big wave surf contests exist anymore?
Something to ponder, maybe.
I’d like to paint a different picture than the portrayal by others of Jeff Clark described in the beginning of the article. I had a boat at Pillar Point marina for several years where Jeff also had a boat. I interacted with him at least a couple of dozen times, and he was always a very pleasant and open person, and I have noticed the same in his interactions with others.
💦💦💦
mavs is a terribly unappealing wave to watch
Bit of backwash…
yeah. coffee on my computer screen. thx. not!
The slow bit.
Xox
Did he swallow?
been there. is shelter cove rideable?
Been there!
pics or good words or it never happened…
2008
Slept in boardbags halfway between Garberville and SC.
Surfed a joint a little north of SC.
Locals not too happy with an Aussie rocking up and camping.
Surfed a peak in the cove on the way back.
I’ve said too much.
another long march…looked good on zig-zags~
this is a test. a sacramonial…in trailer parks…Humboldt Harbor…dead are alivea~https://youtu.be/0yq-Fw7C26…
banished
Not at the top of my ‘wife and three kids on vacay’ list.
el porto… https://scontent-sjc3-1.xx….
did you plant anything? besides an aussie flag?
reservation, sirs
save with large scoring prayers like our fathers and some mothers said in confession…10 then five, then none~99 beers on the wall. Van’s shoes on the telegraph wires…
have you seen the stars tonight…? golden globes and a comedian selection category…
(EOS Sunday Joint)Meanwhile, the sport in general by and large outgrew its regionalism. We’re so blended now, on Facebook and Instagram and TikTok—even if we’re not there, we’re there. Big New Jersey waves, and the surfers who chase them, look much the same as those in San Francisco, which look kinda-sorta the same as those in Manhattan Beach. Everywhere gets good, and if it’s not good where you live it’s not hard, if you’re dedicated and can afford it, to cross timezones and state lines to put yourself where it is good. Mobility in 2024 can be nearly effortless. Bad for the environment, good for appreciating other beaches, towns, states. And I think because of that, we don’t lord it over the other guy the way we used to—or at least we don’t lord it over people based on geography—and that’s a small blessing for us all, but especially my former home-state surfing brethren in California because, talent-wise, if we were still playing that game, East Coast surfers Uno reversed the West Coast 30 years ago.
Tom Curren could only take us so far.
He’s real purdy. Crappy swell for Mavericks though. I know, because I look at internet
sam donarld if you watch football…USC. Cotere’ Dame..find ur niche~go duck go~
Bianca V’s hold down was stupefying. Shes a psycho. Way it was sucking out. Mad respect to the crew up there.
in Australia meanwhile-
https://amp.9news.com.au/ar…
non-sequitar of the day…
Unwatchable slomo
So fucken dog shit hey.
Xox
Soon as I saw the t.b. badge I fucked it off
“ Also, why don’t big wave surf contests exist anymore?”
The woman ( majority) only like small waves so Natsha told Ziff to drop any contests over 4ft.
Pip was “ equally “ happy.
I saw a documentary about Mavericks the other day. The camera crew followed him around as he taught a bunch of young whippersnappers how to flyer more gooder and then he did the bombings at the bad foreigns and stole another aeroplane.
He spent a brief time at the beach but there wasn’t any surfing involved.
:dad~ that’s you’re g’kid flyin a kite~
I caught a really nice Sea Bass out there once. Not to be confused with Sebass.
Worst boat captain ever , not even a bilge pump or bucket on board .
Reckon Jeff has been to some old school Hollywood facelift place ( and they tightened it a bit too much )
Dramatic music aside, Peter Mels wave was better than any this day from that footage. Waves don’t even look great, ribs galore, wind effected. Why is everything hyped so much? Kai Lenny is doing cutbacks FFS.
The chip in to very big barrel from last winter or so…agree.. Look forward to the Will Skudin interview after that flogging!
And then a guy rides Mavericks on a skim board. Hat tip Lucas Fink!
I don’t care unless it was a wavestorm step off.
I thought Mavericks was gonna disappear soon due to climate change?
Cali will fall…into the sea…eventually. I’m near a beach house and will give y’all fair warning (er, warming)…