Do you need me to fawn over Ethan Ewing’s rapier rail work? Should I pontificate on the future of John Florence and his persistent self-flagellation?
Last night, at quarter past midnight, just as my eyes were closing, competition was called on for the Margaret River Pro.
I squinted at my phone screen, casting pixels of pre-dawn light all the way from Western Australia in the shape of Eli Hanneman, Imaikalani deVault and Barron Mamiya.
It was not inspiring. Nor, given the forecast, had I expected it to be.
Any wave you must milk into Achilles depth water in an effort to score arbitrary points is hardly worth watching.
Dutifully and regardless, I wanted to watch. But today was my first day back at work after the Easter break. There’s a crucial week ahead. Next week my seniors go on study leave, and some I won’t ever see again. They’re set free, cast adrift of timetables and assignments, free to dictate their own lives from this point forward.
And I’m struck dumb by a sense of helplessness. Inert in the raw light of day.
I want them to succeed, and in that there’s always a pervasive uselessness. I’ve told them all I can at this stage. Now it’s up to them to practise. Some will, some won’t. There’s nothing I can do about that.
You always feel inadequate in this job. My senior classes are fifty-five individuals, all with their own complex web of needs and wants; strengths and weaknesses; tribulations and tragedy.
You can never know them all, let alone account for what they need.
Teaching is a job that never feels complete. Everything feels like a light skim over a very rough surface. You want to perfect it. To spend time building the layers, allowing them to cure, then smoothing them again and again.
You want the finished product to be flawless, but it never can be. After all, you’re flawed yourself.
This is why I’m quitting my job in a couple of months. Why I’m giving up a guaranteed salary, mortgage repayments, support and security for my family.
To chase something that might not exist. Contentment, maybe. Purpose, certainly. Perhaps perfection in impossible contexts.
Also, because I want to exert control over my own life. I don’t want it to be dictated by ringing bells and working-time agreements and bureaucracy.
I want to confront my flaws, to see if I can do anything that slows my desperate gasps, that helps breath come a little more steadily.
A self-inflicting, self-medicating gambler betting on himself.
Betting on a polythene bag of ideas, stretched and bulging in fragile suspension.
What could go wrong?
So this is the context in which I lay my head each night and wake each day.
And last night, in the half-world between consciousness and sleep, I heard Richie Lovett say something diminishing about the conditions. And that was it. I gave into a restless night, walking periodically to check scores and glimpse waves. I didn’t make much of it.
But in the netherworld of dreams I did meet Gabriel Medina.
He was fishing with bait and float, reclined against a rock in the glinting sun, as relaxed as a man can be. He wore trousers, rolled at the ankles like Huckleberry Finn.
It was an odd image, certainly. There was no fire, no fury. Just a sun-drenched man on a riverbank, squinting at his float bobbing and drifting in the dappled flow.
He did not speak to me, nor I to him.
He did not wear a cowl, nor ask for coin to pay my passage across the river.
I have no idea what it meant, but a large bet resting on Medina’s success might tie in.
Some time around three am I woke to see Medina’s silent dream confidence had been well founded. He’d dispatched Jack Robinson and Deivid Silva. No worries. Just fishing in the stream.
Though his 8.50 was…curious.
There were other dreams, too, but they detached like bubbles at the break of day, drifting airily out of semi-consciousness and into the harsh, grey light.
There was snow this morning on the hills above me. Below this, raw silence. Wind-blown rain braiding panes of glass.
And so I write this now, dear reader, admittedly having watched precious little of the opening round from Margaret River’s imaginatively named “Main Break” and unsure whether it matters.
Yet still I’m eager to give you something, you slack-jawed, slavering hoards. Your gaze is blank and pitiless as the sun. And rightly so.
Do you need me to fawn over Ethan Ewing’s rapier rail work?
Should I pontificate on the future of John Florence and his persistent self-flagellation?
Must I lay Kelly Robert Slater on the pathologist’s slab, douse him in UV light and slice a fine blade from sternum to groin?
Does it matter? Do you care?
Does anyone?
The forecast’s better for tomorrow, though. Maybe I’ll endeavour to watch.
Or maybe I’ll just take peyote and go on a spirit walk with Deivid Silva.
Thought you were about to have a little romp on the rock with Gabby for a minute there
good luck JP. Having taken an abrupt sideways career and life turn not so long ago, can say that sometimes breaking the glass is the only way to move forward. Everyone’s path is unique, but fwiw havent regretted mine for even a second. Godspeed, etc
Its a stabademic!!
Only JP could spin a simple ‘I didn’t watch it’ into an entirely readable piece that somehow feels relevant to the experience of watching yesterday’s comp
fortune favors the bold JP
Currently in California to bury my father.
Life’s crossroads seem relevant.
A peyote walk would be fitting.
Maybe youll have time finally for a surf while ur there.!
RIP mr bottom
Surfing is for the feckless with too much time on their hands.
Not-surfing is the new surfing.
I hear you
I had to make that difficult journey about 3 years ago. Things kind of fell apart in my family afterwards. Condolences for your dad and Best of luck navigating through all this.
Thanks. All good.
Sending good vibes.
Much love you magnificent mofo.
Well, there’s another BG writer resorting to mushies …
Place is going to the dogs.
A whole days surfing and who has been eliminated? Some wildcard I had never heard of! I’m off sick (nothing serious – just a bad cold), but still I couldn’t bring myself to watch it! Unfortunately for whoever wins the championship this year there will also be an asterisk next to their championship as Toledo is absent! Teaching seems like a great gig, especially here, where we are crying out for teachers, you get three months summer holidays, not the six stingy ones in the UK. Think about it!
Give away your dreams. Relent to the mundane comfort of a guaranteed pay cheque. Join your Union. Chalk up the long service leave. Negotiate a shorter working week. Do just enough to not be noticed. Keep a little flame alive if you need to. Pray for a drawn out redundancy at 55.
That’s the secret.
Choose life.
Choose a job.
Choose a career.
Choose a family,
Choose a fucking big television
Choose washing machines, cars,
Compact disc players, and electrical tin openers.
Choose good health, low cholesterol
And dental insurance.
Choose fixed-interest mortgage repayments.
Choose a starter home.
Choose your friends.
Choose leisure wear and matching luggage.
Choose a three piece suite on hire purchase
In a range of fucking fabrics.
Choose DIY and wondering who you
Are on a Sunday morning.
Choose sitting on that couch watching mind-numbing
Sprit-crushing ga me shows
Stuffing fucking junk food into your mouth.
Choose rotting away at the end of it all,
Pishing you last in a miserable home
Nothing more than an embarrassment to the selfish,
Fucked-up brats
You have spawned to replace yourself.
Choose your future. Choose life.
Typical fucking Scots
I am at a crossroads this year as well JP… Fantasy wise. After two back to back stellar years of coming out on top like little simba at trestles I feel like I should have fallen in his footsteps and taken this year off. I am absolutely useless and my league is slaughtering me. I literally have no idea who to pick anymore. Thoughts and prayers please.
Soon youll be able to wrap all the QS comps!!
Please ask Deivid if potentially ending his season above the 11 time world champion of the universe in the rankings is considered a win and has he been in contact with the new CEO to discuss a wild card for next year?
I watched the first terrible heat, turned it off and went workurfing for the rest of the day. Returned home later and saw some real battles and excellent scores on the WSL app?!?
Throughly enjoyed the condensed heat replays in some shreddable waves. The cut certainly brings out the beast within.
But JP if you don’t watch, you won’t care.
I watched first couple heats as well and then realized time would be better served watching a romcom with the wife.
Any recommendation’s? No blood, drugs, gore, voilence or script.
The morning show
Succession, white lotus, masters of the air, the boys
Those are great. Check out The Gentlemen on netflix if you haven’t already. Pretty good.
The Gentlemen and Top Boy are both really good on Netflix if you haven’t seen already.
have not, will check them out, thx!
Has there ever been more work for actors, film crews ,ever?
One Day on Netflix. Pretty well done but she had ready the book so all I heard the whole time was… That’s not what happened in the book. Why would they change that!?
Also Catastrophe on Amazon Prime. From awhile back but funny.
Thanks, I’ll be in the good books with a “look what I found for us to watch”
Check out ol’ POSITRON over here