And surfs world's most hotly policed and expensive to surf lefthander!
The last time eighties supermodel Cindy Crawford appeared on these pages it was as a surf pupil for the Tahitian heartthrob and Surf Ranch king Raimana Van Bastolaer, whom she subsequently described as “human viagra”.
“He’s the Big Blue Pill,” wrote Cindy Crawford. “ He can get anyone up! Even me!”
An icon of the fashion world, Cindy Crawford became one of the most recognizable faces in fashion, known for her trademark beauty mark above her lip. Her career peaked in 1987 when she appeared alongside the other OG supermods Christy Turlington, Linda Evangalista and Naomi Campbell on British Vogue.
Now, as if to cement those surf bona fides first established under Raimana’s powerful hands in Lemoore, Cindy Crawford has appeared in a photo shoot at the glamorous resort that fronts and owns the rights to Occy’s Left on the Indonesia island of Sumba.
And, not only is she enjoying the hotly policed left, Cindy Crawford even allowed surf photo legend Jason Childs to grab a couple of snaps as she posed in front of a pack of Sumba’s famous wild horses.
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Do you remember when Nihi, formerly Nihiwatu, was voted the best hotel in the world?
For twelve thousand dollars a night, you can rent a five-bedroom estate while a “starter villa” is $US1500 a night.
If you want to actually surf the left out the front, you have to peel off around $US150 per surf, which includes local and resort taxes, with a maximum of “one surf slot per villa” and a total complement in the lineup of twelve surfers.
Claude and Petra Graves set up Nihiwatu in 2000 before selling to American entrepreneur Chris Burch and South African hotelier James McBride in 2012.
After renovations last spring, Nihiwatu was visited by Travel + Leisure magazine‘s Peter Jon Lindberg, who wrote:
“I spent my week in Sumba in a state of suspended bliss, orbiting among infinity pools, natural mud baths, waterfall-fed swimming holes, glowing valleys full of rice paddies, misty mountaintop villages straight out of Tolkien, and a beach that looked as if it were airbrushed on the side of a van.
“That beach is spectacular, with or without the left-hand break, and one can easily see why the Graveses pitched their tent here. It can’t have changed much in the 27 years since: every morning I’d walk the mile and a half to the end, and every morning mine were the only footprints.
“Nihiwatu’s redesign—by the Bali firm Habitat 5—finds a winning balance between refined and raw. Guest villas allude to traditional Sumbanese homes, with steeply pitched thatched roofs and massive kasambi tree trunks for support columns. Sumbanese ikat tapestries and black-and-white photos of local villagers hang on ocher stone walls. Wide-angle windows overlook lush gardens and the sea beyond.
“Local touches show up everywhere: bathroom sinks are hewn from slabs of roughly carved stone; wardrobes are fashioned from coconut wood. The space is natural where you want it to be, sleek where you need it—as in the seamless glide of sliding glass doors; the light switches that glow in the unfamiliar dark; or the straw paddle fan that swirls inside, not outside, your monumental canopy bed. Most striking of the new villas: the Kanatar Sumba Houses, where an outdoor shower is magically cantilevered off the second floor. All the other outdoor showers went home and cried.
“Ninety-eight percent of the staff are from Sumba. Like most guests, I was assigned a butler, a jovial Sumbanese man named Simson, who arrived at 7 a.m. every morning bearing breakfast—papaya, rambutan, watermelon juice, house-made yogurt, Sumba coffee. (The foodhere is terrific, highlighting the bright, fresh flavors you crave in the tropics.) One morning Simson was limping because a scorpion had bitten him on the toe back home. ‘I didn’t check before putting on my sandals!’ he said, as if it were his fault, not the scorpion’s. He quickly added that one seldom encounters them at Nihiwatu.
“Of course there’s an inevitable dissonance between Sumba’s privation and Nihiwatu’s privilege, between a subsistence-level economy and a butler-staffed resort. Perhaps that’s why so many guests are compelled to support the foundation and, not least, to visit Sumbanese villages. To do so is to realize how unique— and symbiotic—the relationship is between Nihiwatu and the island it calls home.”
Did you, like me, laugh a little at the reference to the butler? “…a jovial Sumbanese man named Simson… one morning Simson was limping because a scorpion had bitten him on the toe back home.”
Oh, poor Simson, the damn native, paid to be jovial, even when he’s seized with poison!
Have a couple of hard core Indo travel friends who went there overland in the early 80’s, got captured by the armed horsemen and taken back to their village. Said they were very worried at first but when they produced a camera, they began taking group photos with all the villages, making friends with them. Ended up staying a few weeks, walking to the point each day and surfing. They said the food was pretty gross but the left hander they walked to each day was incredible. They returned a few times in the following years, taking copies of the photos they took with them, said the locals were really stoked.
Huh? https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
This would work but my ears are so fucked the canal is fully closed up. I need to get the surgery done but have been putting it off for years
Head down to the local hospital and get it done! What a way to kill time in paradise. Let us know how it goes, maybe you get to keep both ears. Gofundme on the ready.
saw that last night, coincidentally, and was saddened
I don’t go to Indo to pay American prices.
Was meant to be going to Sumba next week but everyone I spoke to said it wasn’t that good other than Nihiwatu, so I bailed. Now I’m stuck in Bali with a week up my sleeve but also a severe ear infection and unsure what to do next. Thoughts?
buy some ducks and geese.
unravel a coat-hanger and tie a little piece of red plastic strip on one end.
take your brood to the beach.
herd them.
rest of trip: sorted.
Huu is always a good hop over when its smaller. Not that those waves aren’t good when its big but sucks in quite a bit of swell and Lakey Peak is alwasy surfable (jump over to Pipe if you like slabby little lefts). Likely crowed but lots of waves to pick from. Head to Periscopes if there is swell, well worth it. There is always Desert’s if you don’t mind crowds. Rote not bad either, long left but not exactly world class. How much time and $$ you got to spend? Stay away from G-land, not worth it.
Go to Sanur get a ” massage” at Kuta Bugur 😂
Time for a banana
massage ?
Reminds me of a Russian site…
Horses…older women…🌞…azure waters
Hmmmmm. Keala Kennely, Gisele Bündchen, Isabella Settanni, Cindy Crawford?
are we expecting a Sasha article in the works?
Ok, I’d rather stay in a Palapa on the beach in Mexico, with no electricity, no running water, take my baths in the Ocean, need be, cook my meals on a rustic fire-place or campfire, than stay in that monument to excessiveness, un-needed luxury, indulgence of pampered guests, etc.—but hey, that’s just me, one surfer’s outlook.
can you get to Palapa by Mule Cart?
asking for a friend.
early PR…City needs dredging grants. Know? Rushed ’em down to LAX inna Toyota Land Cruiser…AK-47s blazin’…Saddles. and more tents…small ladders?
any beachfront minute movement we are grunning huntin…like, sardines. stuffed inna can…
Kinda sounds like a 70s nomadic surfers’s nightmare.
I used to go on surf trips to get away from all that society ego stuff.
I think I’d still take waking up in the back of a V-dub van to some uncrowded waves with some like minded bros, than waking up in this joint with a butler serving breakfast to everyone in bed.
Just sayin……..
I have a cheap pair of Bygone Days glasses I can sell you, if yours are getting old.
Quick correction, that place was there long before 2000. Been there a few times in the mid-later 90’s, granted we stayed at Watukerere not Sumba Reef Lodge as it was known. One of the best waves in east Indo when it’s on. And most people back then had nothing good to say about Claude. Guy fucked over quite a few Indonesians in his path to selling it to Birch. I could keep going on but, in general, not a fan of him or his antics. Anyone that knew Starky might know.
Edit-pretty sure they don’t actually own any rights to the wave, don’t think that’s allowed in Indo. They just pay off local cops and govt.
Ya, that’s a good question, I think I read way back about this possibly being some kind of private wave.
I would love to see a boat pull up and a few surfers jump off at the break and see how the resort handles it, with cameras on them.
I dunno, the whole Idea of ‘Private’ waves kinda sucks in my eyes— almost as bad as Slater’s private wave tank.
PS
My beach—my waves—go home!—go home!!
Locals well and truly onboard also. Not saying its wrong or right, but let’s be honest it’d probably look like Uluwatu by now it it wasn’t locked down.
Umm, ok, so I guess you or anyone of the BG crew will never be surfing it.
Right or wrong?
It doesn’t feel right to me.
Im indifferent to it. We as Surfers have fucked over too many places, In saying that I’ll be sailing around Sumba come September!
Some good kiwi history in that neck of the woods. Enjoy. Make sure you pack some foam.
There are quite a few in Sumba that are fun but none are quite to the quality of God’s, Occy’s, Saggy’s, Witches Tit, Nihiwatu, or whatever other names are used for this place. There is a bay about 27 k’s from Nihi that is supposed to be holding good waves, never went there, only heard about it from Starky.
Not that likely as its super fucking hard to get there without the infrastructure and transport that Burch created. Used to be stay in the local village and walk 45 mins to the wave everyday.
Some blazing ball rash I’m sure after a few days. Magic days though I bet!
There are few places down the eastern end of the islands where there is a so called “unwritten rule” re access. It’s not much fun being on the end of the commotion I can assure you. I was fortunate to surf Niwatahtu a few times a few years back courtesy of a friend of a friend who was working there. Cheap rates to stay. But we had to fork out the extra cash to surf. Great wave.
Boats have tried, Nihi basically calls the local cops who come from around the corner at Rua and chase them out with threat of arrest.. Not that cool but such is life. Claude used to chase people away with a machete if he was in town. “Resort” was know to chase people off the beach back then, sometimes via shotgun.
In 2013 I stayed in Ruu and caught a boat over and surfed nihi for $75. We got permission from the sumba minister of tourism, he gave us his mobile number and said to call him if the police got heavy. When we got there the cops came over but only to hang out with the local boat crew.
Some stuck up guests tried to staunch us out but we told them to get fucked and kept surfing.
On the steam back to Ruu I threw a lure in the water and caught some fish too.
was a good day.
That’s good timing, they closed it off a bit later once the resort was glammed up
thx for dat. hun, answer dat! da door…
Imagine all the froth coming from behind Childs’s lens on that shoot! Well done maaate
Place gets really windy
Occy also noted for his elegance, class, and refined & raw approach to re-designing lip lines at speed.
and later contracted popsicle toes…